Hurrungane (also written Hurrungene , Hurrungadn , Horungane ) is a mountain range in the municipalities Luster and Årdal in Vestland county, Norway . The area is southwest in the larger mountain range Jotunheimen and is also part of Jotunheimen National Park .
118-451: The range has some of the most alpine peaks in Norway, and has 23 peaks over 2,000 metres (6,600 ft) (counting peaks with larger prominence than 30 metres or 98 feet). Several of the peaks are only accessible through climbing or glacier crossings. The starting point for hiking is the village of Turtagrø along the national tourist road, Sognefjellsvegen (RV55). The highest peaks in
236-409: A first ascent (or FA), whereas climbers who ascend a new route and do it without aid have made the more coveted first free ascent (FFA). As a further refinement, some have argued that when free climbing a specific route single-pitch route, 'highball bouldering' is a better "style" than 'traditional climbing', which is itself a better "style" than 'sport climbing'. A further refinement of "style"
354-409: A first ascent (or FA), whereas climbers who ascend a new route and do it without aid have made the more coveted first free ascent (FFA). As a further refinement, some have argued that when free climbing a specific route single-pitch route, 'highball bouldering' is a better "style" than 'traditional climbing', which is itself a better "style" than 'sport climbing'. A further refinement of "style"
472-401: A 'layback' (see image) which involves using the legs and arms in opposing forces to ascend cracks in corners or dihedrals. Ascending corners naturally leads to the related technique of 'bridging' (also called 'stemming'), which involves spreading the legs to gain traction on the opposing walls of the corner. In places where the walls are completely opposing, the technique of bridging becomes
590-401: A 'layback' (see image) which involves using the legs and arms in opposing forces to ascend cracks in corners or dihedrals. Ascending corners naturally leads to the related technique of 'bridging' (also called 'stemming'), which involves spreading the legs to gain traction on the opposing walls of the corner. In places where the walls are completely opposing, the technique of bridging becomes
708-558: A few metres to over a 1,000 metres (3,300 ft) in height, and traverses can reach 4,500 metres (14,800 ft) in length. They include slabs , faces , cracks and overhangs/roofs . Popular rock types are granite (e.g. El Capitan ), limestone (e.g. Verdon Gorge ), and sandstone (e.g. Saxon Switzerland ) but 43 types of climbable rock types have been identified. Artificial indoor climbing walls are popular and competition climbing — which takes place on artificial walls — became an Olympic sport in 2020 . Contemporary rock climbing
826-407: A mostly indoor environment. Routes are chronicled in guidebooks , and on online databases, with the details of how to climb the route (called the beta ), and who made the first ascent (or FA) and the coveted first free ascent (or FFA). Climbers will try to ascend a route onsight , however, a climber can spend years projecting a route before they make a redpoint ascent. Routes range from
944-434: A natural climbing route. However, many modern newcomers now start on the safest type, which is bouldering, and some of them never leave bouldering. Whereas outdoor climbing/mountaineering clubs were also an important pathway for instruction, many modern climbers now start by getting lessons at indoor climbing walls — in either bouldering or leading — and some then move on to competition climbing teams and never really appear in
1062-434: A natural climbing route. However, many modern newcomers now start on the safest type, which is bouldering, and some of them never leave bouldering. Whereas outdoor climbing/mountaineering clubs were also an important pathway for instruction, many modern climbers now start by getting lessons at indoor climbing walls — in either bouldering or leading — and some then move on to competition climbing teams and never really appear in
1180-626: A new artificial indoor climbing wall built in a corridor of Leeds University began to produce climbers who, after exclusively training as students on the wall, could climb some of the hardest routes in Britain when they ventured into the outdoor environment. This led to an explosion in indoor climbing that was further amplified by the rise of bolted sport climbing and of bouldering, which are also suited to indoor climbing. Modern indoor climbing walls and gyms include artificial versions of almost every type of obstacle and climbing hold encountered in
1298-571: A new artificial indoor climbing wall built in a corridor of Leeds University began to produce climbers who, after exclusively training as students on the wall, could climb some of the hardest routes in Britain when they ventured into the outdoor environment. This led to an explosion in indoor climbing that was further amplified by the rise of bolted sport climbing and of bouldering, which are also suited to indoor climbing. Modern indoor climbing walls and gyms include artificial versions of almost every type of obstacle and climbing hold encountered in
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#17327726667701416-550: A precise hooking technique. Hooking is also used in competition climbing to gain a stable resting position, allowing the lactic acid to be shaken from the arms before carrying on. The 'heel-toe cam' is where a 'heel hook' and a 'toe hook' are used simultaneously to act like a 'jamming' technique (i.e. they keep each other in place by their opposing force), and is a regular requirement in competition lead climbing. The development of modern climbing routes which are typically severely overhanging (or with roofs), and which are now almost
1534-550: A precise hooking technique. Hooking is also used in competition climbing to gain a stable resting position, allowing the lactic acid to be shaken from the arms before carrying on. The 'heel-toe cam' is where a 'heel hook' and a 'toe hook' are used simultaneously to act like a 'jamming' technique (i.e. they keep each other in place by their opposing force), and is a regular requirement in competition lead climbing. The development of modern climbing routes which are typically severely overhanging (or with roofs), and which are now almost
1652-692: A route onsight , however, a climber can spend years projecting a route before they make a redpoint ascent. Routes range from a few metres to over a 1,000 metres (3,300 ft) in height, and traverses can reach 4,500 metres (14,800 ft) in length. They include slabs , faces , cracks and overhangs/roofs . Popular rock types are granite (e.g. El Capitan ), limestone (e.g. Verdon Gorge ), and sandstone (e.g. Saxon Switzerland ) but 43 types of climbable rock types have been identified. Artificial indoor climbing walls are popular and competition climbing — which takes place on artificial walls — became an Olympic sport in 2020 . Contemporary rock climbing
1770-503: A route — either in retreat (e.g. self-rescue climbing ) or because they have completed it and there is no other way down. This requires the technique of abseiling (or rappelling in North America), where climbers use abseil devices to move down a fixed rope that has been anchored to a point at the top of the route. Climbing routes can range from just a few metres in height to over 1,000 metres (3,300 ft). The higher
1888-440: A route — either in retreat (e.g. self-rescue climbing ) or because they have completed it and there is no other way down. This requires the technique of abseiling (or rappelling in North America), where climbers use abseil devices to move down a fixed rope that has been anchored to a point at the top of the route. Climbing routes can range from just a few metres in height to over 1,000 metres (3,300 ft). The higher
2006-465: A strong tradition of climbing developed their own grading systems, a small number of grading systems have become internationally dominant for each type of climbing, which has contributed to the standardization of grades worldwide. For free climbing — in both traditional and sport climbing formats — the most dominant worldwide grading systems are the French system (e.g. ... 6b, 6c, 7a, 7b, 7c, ...), and
2124-413: A strong tradition of climbing developed their own grading systems, a small number of grading systems have become internationally dominant for each type of climbing, which has contributed to the standardization of grades worldwide. For free climbing — in both traditional and sport climbing formats — the most dominant worldwide grading systems are the French system (e.g. ... 6b, 6c, 7a, 7b, 7c, ...), and
2242-428: A wide range of types and disciplines that vary with the style being adopted on the specific climbing route , the length and number of pitches of the route, the level and type of climbing protection that will be employed on the route, and whether the climb is in a competition climbing format. A climb can involve a combination of several types depending on the skill and risk appetite of the climber(s). For example,
2360-428: A wide range of types and disciplines that vary with the style being adopted on the specific climbing route , the length and number of pitches of the route, the level and type of climbing protection that will be employed on the route, and whether the climb is in a competition climbing format. A climb can involve a combination of several types depending on the skill and risk appetite of the climber(s). For example,
2478-677: Is 9c (5.15d), and the hardest bouldering grade is V17 (9A). The main types of rock climbing can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe, with bouldering in Fontainebleau , big wall climbing in the Dolomites , and single-pitch climbing in both the Lake District and in Saxony . Climbing ethics initially focused on "fair means" and the transition from aid climbing to free climbing and latterly to clean climbing ;
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#17327726667702596-445: Is 9c (5.15d), and the hardest bouldering grade is V17 (9A). The main types of rock climbing can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe, with bouldering in Fontainebleau , big wall climbing in the Dolomites , and single-pitch climbing in both the Lake District and in Saxony . Climbing ethics initially focused on "fair means" and the transition from aid climbing to free climbing and latterly to clean climbing ;
2714-437: Is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly indoor environment. Routes are chronicled in guidebooks , and on online databases, with the details of how to climb the route (called the beta ), and who made the first ascent (or FA) and the coveted first free ascent (or FFA). Climbers will try to ascend
2832-399: Is a free climb by a climber who had never seen the route beforehand, and had never been told about its challenges and how to overcome them (called the beta ). If such a climber completes the route on their first attempt it is called an onsight . Where the climber had never seen the route beforehand but had been given beta on it, it is called a flash . A free climb where the climber attempts
2950-399: Is a free climb by a climber who had never seen the route beforehand, and had never been told about its challenges and how to overcome them (called the beta ). If such a climber completes the route on their first attempt it is called an onsight . Where the climber had never seen the route beforehand but had been given beta on it, it is called a flash . A free climb where the climber attempts
3068-415: Is associated with the development of training tools such as the hangboard that increase the tendon strength needed for crimping; however, it is also a source of tendon injury. Crimping and edging are most associated with ' face climbing ' where there are no big features on which to 'layback' or to 'bridge', and no cracks in which to 'jam'. They can also feature in traversing as was dramatically shown on
3186-415: Is associated with the development of training tools such as the hangboard that increase the tendon strength needed for crimping; however, it is also a source of tendon injury. Crimping and edging are most associated with ' face climbing ' where there are no big features on which to 'layback' or to 'bridge', and no cracks in which to 'jam'. They can also feature in traversing as was dramatically shown on
3304-724: Is focused on free climbing where — unlike with aid climbing — no mechanical aids can be used to assist with upward momentum. Free-climbing includes the discipline of bouldering on short 5-metre (16 ft) routes, of single-pitch climbing on up to 60–70-metre (200–230 ft) routes, and of multi-pitch climbing — and big wall climbing — on routes of up to 1,000 metres (3,300 ft). Free-climbing can be done as free solo climbing with no climbing protection whatsoever, or as lead climbing that uses either removable temporary protection (called traditional climbing ), or permanently fixed bolted protection (called sport climbing ). The evolution in technical milestones in rock climbing
3422-724: Is focused on free climbing where — unlike with aid climbing — no mechanical aids can be used to assist with upward momentum. Free-climbing includes the discipline of bouldering on short 5-metre (16 ft) routes, of single-pitch climbing on up to 60–70-metre (200–230 ft) routes, and of multi-pitch climbing — and big wall climbing — on routes of up to 1,000 metres (3,300 ft). Free-climbing can be done as free solo climbing with no climbing protection whatsoever, or as lead climbing that uses either removable temporary protection (called traditional climbing ), or permanently fixed bolted protection (called sport climbing ). The evolution in technical milestones in rock climbing
3540-759: Is known for its detailed holds and cracks (e.g Malham Cove , Céüse , and the Verdon Gorge ), and on sandstone, which can have sculpted features (e.g. Indian Creek , Saxon Switzerland , Rocklands , and Fontainebleau ). However, climbing areas have been identified on over 43 climbable rock types including on gritstone (e.g. Stanage Edge ), on slate (e.g. Dinorwic quarry ), on dolorite (e.g. Fair Head ), on iron rock (e.g. Hueco Tanks ), on gneiss (e.g. Magic Wood [ fr ] ), on dolomite (e.g. Tri Cime ), on monzonite (e.g., The Buttermilks ), and on quartzite (e.g. Mount Arapiles ). Climbers also differentiate routes by challenges encountered and
3658-699: Is known for its detailed holds and cracks (e.g Malham Cove , Céüse , and the Verdon Gorge ), and on sandstone, which can have sculpted features (e.g. Indian Creek , Saxon Switzerland , Rocklands , and Fontainebleau ). However, climbing areas have been identified on over 43 climbable rock types including on gritstone (e.g. Stanage Edge ), on slate (e.g. Dinorwic quarry ), on dolorite (e.g. Fair Head ), on iron rock (e.g. Hueco Tanks ), on gneiss (e.g. Magic Wood [ fr ] ), on dolomite (e.g. Tri Cime ), on monzonite (e.g., The Buttermilks ), and on quartzite (e.g. Mount Arapiles ). Climbers also differentiate routes by challenges encountered and
Hurrungane - Misplaced Pages Continue
3776-580: Is most associated with ' slab climbing ' where the ability to 'smear' is essential because of the smooth and featureless nature of the surface. One of the most notable exponents of the 'smearing' technique is Welch climber Johnny Dawes who used smearing it to create some of the hardest traditional slab climbs in the world such as the Indian Face and The Quarryman . Dawes is also noted for his unique "no-hands demonstrations" where he climbs extreme-graded rock climbing routes but uses only his feet and
3894-522: Is most associated with ' slab climbing ' where the ability to 'smear' is essential because of the smooth and featureless nature of the surface. One of the most notable exponents of the 'smearing' technique is Welch climber Johnny Dawes who used smearing it to create some of the hardest traditional slab climbs in the world such as the Indian Face and The Quarryman . Dawes is also noted for his unique "no-hands demonstrations" where he climbs extreme-graded rock climbing routes but uses only his feet and
4012-413: Is most commonly done by pairs using lead climbing , they have both been rope solo climbed , simul climbed (particularly for setting speed climbing records), and only Freerider has been free solo climbed (see photo). The broad range of types is also helpful in giving novice climbers alternative paths into the sport. Once, the main pathway was starting as a 'belayer' to an outdoor lead climber on
4130-413: Is most commonly done by pairs using lead climbing , they have both been rope solo climbed , simul climbed (particularly for setting speed climbing records), and only Freerider has been free solo climbed (see photo). The broad range of types is also helpful in giving novice climbers alternative paths into the sport. Once, the main pathway was starting as a 'belayer' to an outdoor lead climber on
4248-467: Is needed, and it is length that differentiates the three major disciplines of rock climbing which are: The type of climbing protection employed also materially influences the type of rock climbing techniques used on a climbing route, regardless of whether it is single-pitch or multi-pitch (or big wall); protection doesn't apply to bouldering as none is used. The following broad distinctions are made in rock climbing types, which have been split into whether
4366-467: Is needed, and it is length that differentiates the three major disciplines of rock climbing which are: The type of climbing protection employed also materially influences the type of rock climbing techniques used on a climbing route, regardless of whether it is single-pitch or multi-pitch (or big wall); protection doesn't apply to bouldering as none is used. The following broad distinctions are made in rock climbing types, which have been split into whether
4484-541: Is tied to the development in rock-climbing equipment (e.g. rubber shoes , spring-loaded camming devices , and campus boards ) and of rock-climbing technique (e.g. jamming, crimping, and smearing). The most dominant grading systems worldwide are the 'French numerical' and 'American YDS' systems for lead climbing, and the V-grade and the Font-grade for bouldering. As of October 2024, the hardest lead climbing grade
4602-427: Is tied to the development in rock-climbing equipment (e.g. rubber shoes , spring-loaded camming devices , and campus boards ) and of rock-climbing technique (e.g. jamming, crimping, and smearing). The most dominant grading systems worldwide are the 'French numerical' and 'American YDS' systems for lead climbing, and the V-grade and the Font-grade for bouldering. As of October 2024, the hardest lead climbing grade
4720-408: The 'belayer' will lock the rope, and the 'lead climber' will fall until they hang from the last 'protection device' that they had clipped the rope into. This protection can be removable (which is called traditional climbing ), or permanently fixed into the rock (which is called sport climbing ). If the 'lead climber' falls, the 'belayer' will immediately lock the rope using their belay device, and
4838-408: The 'belayer' will lock the rope, and the 'lead climber' will fall until they hang from the last 'protection device' that they had clipped the rope into. This protection can be removable (which is called traditional climbing ), or permanently fixed into the rock (which is called sport climbing ). If the 'lead climber' falls, the 'belayer' will immediately lock the rope using their belay device, and
Hurrungane - Misplaced Pages Continue
4956-508: The American system (e.g. ... 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10d, 5.11a, ...). The UIAA system (e.g. ... VII, VIII, IX, X, ...) is popular in Germany and central Europe. Above the lowest grades, these three systems can be exactly aligned at each level. For example, Silence is graded 9c (French), 5.15d (American), and XII+ (UIAA). Rock-climbing technique Rock climbing
5074-545: The Trango Towers , present additional physical challenges. Traversing routes, by their horizontal nature, can extend to great distances, and the world's longest rock climb is the 4,500-metre (14,800 ft) El Capitan Girdle Traverse on El Capitan . Famous routes have been created on almost every climbable rock type, and particularly so on granite , which is noted for its grip and large cracks (e.g. El Capitan , Joshua Tree or Squamish ), on limestone , which
5192-483: The Trango Towers , present additional physical challenges. Traversing routes, by their horizontal nature, can extend to great distances, and the world's longest rock climb is the 4,500-metre (14,800 ft) El Capitan Girdle Traverse on El Capitan . Famous routes have been created on almost every climbable rock type, and particularly so on granite , which is noted for its grip and large cracks (e.g. El Capitan , Joshua Tree or Squamish ), on limestone , which
5310-494: The techniques required to overcome them. Some of the earliest rock climbs were smooth off-vertical ' slab climbs ' where balance and shoe grip (or 'smearing') were key; famous modern examples include Indian Face in the UK. Climbers then acquired the techniques to ascend near-vertical ' crack climbs ' by 'laybacking', 'bridging', and 'jamming'; famous examples include Super Crack , The Phoenix and Grand Illusion (all in
5428-446: The techniques required to overcome them. Some of the earliest rock climbs were smooth off-vertical ' slab climbs ' where balance and shoe grip (or 'smearing') were key; famous modern examples include Indian Face in the UK. Climbers then acquired the techniques to ascend near-vertical ' crack climbs ' by 'laybacking', 'bridging', and 'jamming'; famous examples include Super Crack , The Phoenix and Grand Illusion (all in
5546-399: The 'belayer' held the rope fast — which they would have to do manually by looping the rope around their waist — the 'lead climber' would hang from the rope if it had stayed looped around a spike of rock — if it didn't, they fell to the ground. Modern rock climbers use mechanical protection devices placed along the route, into which the 'lead climber' clips the rope as they ascend; if they fall,
5664-399: The 'belayer' held the rope fast — which they would have to do manually by looping the rope around their waist — the 'lead climber' would hang from the rope if it had stayed looped around a spike of rock — if it didn't, they fell to the ground. Modern rock climbers use mechanical protection devices placed along the route, into which the 'lead climber' clips the rope as they ascend; if they fall,
5782-431: The 'lead climber' is forced to leave large gaps between protection points — called a runout — so that any fall will be large (called a whipper ). The wide variety of types of rock climbing offers safer ways for beginners to access the sport before learning to lead climb, including top roping and bouldering . Finally, while rock climbing mostly involves ascending a route, climbers might also need to be able to descend
5900-431: The 'lead climber' is forced to leave large gaps between protection points — called a runout — so that any fall will be large (called a whipper ). The wide variety of types of rock climbing offers safer ways for beginners to access the sport before learning to lead climb, including top roping and bouldering . Finally, while rock climbing mostly involves ascending a route, climbers might also need to be able to descend
6018-409: The 'lead climber' will fall twice the distance that they are above their last piece of climbing protection. If this piece of climbing protection fails — a risk of traditional climbing — and rips away from the rock, they will keep falling until their next piece of protection holds the rope (a zipper fall is where several pieces fail). On some routes, the opportunities for placing protection are poor so
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#17327726667706136-409: The 'lead climber' will fall twice the distance that they are above their last piece of climbing protection. If this piece of climbing protection fails — a risk of traditional climbing — and rips away from the rock, they will keep falling until their next piece of protection holds the rope (a zipper fall is where several pieces fail). On some routes, the opportunities for placing protection are poor so
6254-526: The ICCC added bouldering and speed climbing as new events. In 2007, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) took over the governance of the sport and its two major competitions, the annual Climbing World Cup and the biennial Climbing World Championships ; it debuted as a full Olympic-medal sport in 2020: The rock-climbing equipment needed varies quite significantly with
6372-399: The ICCC added bouldering and speed climbing as new events. In 2007, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) took over the governance of the sport and its two major competitions, the annual Climbing World Cup and the biennial Climbing World Championships ; it debuted as a full Olympic-medal sport in 2020: The rock-climbing equipment needed varies quite significantly with
6490-795: The US). Climbers then took on blank vertical ' face climbs ' by 'crimping' and 'edging' on tiny holds, which required bolts drilled into the rock for their climbing protection; famous face routes include The Face [ de ] and Wallstreet [ de ] (Germany), La Rage de Vivre and Super Plafond (France), and To Bolt or Not to Be and Just Do It (the US). Eventually, they migrated to routes that were also severely and continually overhanging and which required 'dynos' (or jumps) to reach holds; famous examples include Action Directe (Germany), Realization/Biographie (France), La Rambla (Spain), Jumbo Love (the US), La Dura Dura (Spain) and Silence (Norway). In 1964,
6608-747: The US). Climbers then took on blank vertical ' face climbs ' by 'crimping' and 'edging' on tiny holds, which required bolts drilled into the rock for their climbing protection; famous face routes include The Face [ de ] and Wallstreet [ de ] (Germany), La Rage de Vivre and Super Plafond (France), and To Bolt or Not to Be and Just Do It (the US). Eventually, they migrated to routes that were also severely and continually overhanging and which required 'dynos' (or jumps) to reach holds; famous examples include Action Directe (Germany), Realization/Biographie (France), La Rambla (Spain), Jumbo Love (the US), La Dura Dura (Spain) and Silence (Norway). In 1964,
6726-485: The area are Hurrungane is the finite plural of a word hurrung . Hurrungen , the finite singular of the same word, is the names of two mountains in Rauma and Skjåk . The first element is the verb hurra which means "hurry, move fast (with noise and roar)". The last element is the suffix -ung , referring to an active thing/person. The actual mountains are steep, and there are frequent rockslides and avalanches from
6844-788: The beta information between online databases. Important new first ascents are also chronicled and discussed in specialist rock climbing media, including climbing magazines and climbing journals with notable examples including Alpinist , and Climbing , which are read globally. These are supplemented by popular online climbing websites such as UK Climbing and PlanetMountain , as well as country-level specialist rock climbing magazines such as Desnivel (in Spanish), Grimper [ fr ] (in French) and Klettern [ de ] (in German). The sport of rock climbing includes
6962-627: The beta information between online databases. Important new first ascents are also chronicled and discussed in specialist rock climbing media, including climbing magazines and climbing journals with notable examples including Alpinist , and Climbing , which are read globally. These are supplemented by popular online climbing websites such as UK Climbing and PlanetMountain , as well as country-level specialist rock climbing magazines such as Desnivel (in Spanish), Grimper [ fr ] (in French) and Klettern [ de ] (in German). The sport of rock climbing includes
7080-556: The climber is free climbing. With the development of the safer form of sport climbing in the 1980s, lead climbing competitions on bolted artificial climbing walls became popular. In 1988, the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) created rules and created the International Council for Competition Climbing [ de ] (ICCC) to regulate competition climbing , and in 1998,
7198-413: The climber is free climbing. With the development of the safer form of sport climbing in the 1980s, lead climbing competitions on bolted artificial climbing walls became popular. In 1988, the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) created rules and created the International Council for Competition Climbing [ de ] (ICCC) to regulate competition climbing , and in 1998,
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#17327726667707316-439: The conservation of energy and thus climb efficiently. Where possible, the arms should be kept straight, thus holding the body weight on the joints and not on flexed arm muscles, with the 'climbing' driven by the stronger legs. The hips should be kept close to the wall, which often involves the technique of 'back-stepping', where instead of the climber using their big toe to 'toe-into' a foot-hold, they rotate their hips and use
7434-439: The conservation of energy and thus climb efficiently. Where possible, the arms should be kept straight, thus holding the body weight on the joints and not on flexed arm muscles, with the 'climbing' driven by the stronger legs. The hips should be kept close to the wall, which often involves the technique of 'back-stepping', where instead of the climber using their big toe to 'toe-into' a foot-hold, they rotate their hips and use
7552-420: The crux pitch of the famous Dawn Wall route in the film, The Dawn Wall . Many of the hardest modern routes feature painful micro-crimps from which the climber must launch a small "dyno" (i.e. a jump or lunge) to reach the next micro-crimps. Notable examples include the crux of the sport climbing route, La Dura Dura , and the crux of the bouldering problem, Burden of Dreams . 'Hooking' involves using
7670-420: The crux pitch of the famous Dawn Wall route in the film, The Dawn Wall . Many of the hardest modern routes feature painful micro-crimps from which the climber must launch a small "dyno" (i.e. a jump or lunge) to reach the next micro-crimps. Notable examples include the crux of the sport climbing route, La Dura Dura , and the crux of the bouldering problem, Burden of Dreams . 'Hooking' involves using
7788-552: The even more spectacular technique of 'chimneying'. Laybacking and bridging enabled rock climbers to ascend dramatic new types of specialist climbing routes that typically combined the corners and cracks needed for these techniques to work. Famous early examples include Joe Brown 's Cenotaph Corner in 1952 in Dinas Cromlech in Wales. Notable modern examples of routes that require advanced laybacking and bridging include
7906-437: The even more spectacular technique of 'chimneying'. Laybacking and bridging enabled rock climbers to ascend dramatic new types of specialist climbing routes that typically combined the corners and cracks needed for these techniques to work. Famous early examples include Joe Brown 's Cenotaph Corner in 1952 in Dinas Cromlech in Wales. Notable modern examples of routes that require advanced laybacking and bridging include
8024-463: The famous neighbouring El Capitan routes of The Nose and Freerider both require big wall climbing techniques as they are over 1,000 metres (3,300 ft) high. They can be ascended using aid climbing (on either all or just on the hardest pitches of the route) or can be fully free climbed ( The Nose is much harder and only rarely free climbed). As both are not bolted, they require traditional climbing protection to be inserted, and while it
8142-463: The famous neighbouring El Capitan routes of The Nose and Freerider both require big wall climbing techniques as they are over 1,000 metres (3,300 ft) high. They can be ascended using aid climbing (on either all or just on the hardest pitches of the route) or can be fully free climbed ( The Nose is much harder and only rarely free climbed). As both are not bolted, they require traditional climbing protection to be inserted, and while it
8260-408: The hardest technical grades climbed in the outdoor natural environment. The ever-growing volume and range of new rock climbing routes are recorded via specialist diagrams called topos , which are collated in climbing guidebooks and more latterly on large online rock climbing databases such as theCrag.com and MountainProject.com . Guidebooks and databases record the local consensus view on
8378-408: The hardest technical grades climbed in the outdoor natural environment. The ever-growing volume and range of new rock climbing routes are recorded via specialist diagrams called topos , which are collated in climbing guidebooks and more latterly on large online rock climbing databases such as theCrag.com and MountainProject.com . Guidebooks and databases record the local consensus view on
8496-461: The hillsides. The meaning of the name is then "the noisemakers". This article about a mountain, mountain range, or peak in Vestland is a stub . You can help Misplaced Pages by expanding it . Rock climbing Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in
8614-400: The holds became smaller and smaller, until they were barely large enough to accommodate the tips of fingers of the smallest part of a toe. 'Crimping' means holding the fingers in a tight line to hold onto the smallest holds, while 'edging' involves a similar process but with the "edges" of the climbing shoe. A related technique is that of 'pinching' which is used on even smaller holds. Crimping
8732-400: The holds became smaller and smaller, until they were barely large enough to accommodate the tips of fingers of the smallest part of a toe. 'Crimping' means holding the fingers in a tight line to hold onto the smallest holds, while 'edging' involves a similar process but with the "edges" of the climbing shoe. A related technique is that of 'pinching' which is used on even smaller holds. Crimping
8850-405: The legs and feet to grab — or "hook" — onto features on the rock. While hooking is a long-standing technique in rock climbing, competition climbers need to be able to master every type of hook including "toe hooks", "heel hooks" and "leg hooks" when trying to overcome the challenges of route setters, who have developed particular challenges on artificial climbing walls that can only be overcome with
8968-405: The legs and feet to grab — or "hook" — onto features on the rock. While hooking is a long-standing technique in rock climbing, competition climbers need to be able to master every type of hook including "toe hooks", "heel hooks" and "leg hooks" when trying to overcome the challenges of route setters, who have developed particular challenges on artificial climbing walls that can only be overcome with
9086-410: The level of difficulty of the routes, however, where this is materially lower than the actual difficulty of the routes, it is termed sandbagging . The individual moves needed to complete a given rock climbing route are called the beta , and popular rock climbing routes have detailed step-by-step video guides of their beta available online, and which has led to legal disputes over the ownership of
9204-410: The level of difficulty of the routes, however, where this is materially lower than the actual difficulty of the routes, it is termed sandbagging . The individual moves needed to complete a given rock climbing route are called the beta , and popular rock climbing routes have detailed step-by-step video guides of their beta available online, and which has led to legal disputes over the ownership of
9322-399: The micro-cracks of Rhapsody . 'Smearing' involves using the rubber grip of the climbing shoes to gain purchase on a featureless rock face with no edges or holds to step on. The advent of specialist rubber-soled climbing shoes dramatically increased the surfaces that climbers could "smear" on. While the technique is used to some degree on almost every type of rock climbing route, it
9440-399: The micro-cracks of Rhapsody . 'Smearing' involves using the rubber grip of the climbing shoes to gain purchase on a featureless rock face with no edges or holds to step on. The advent of specialist rubber-soled climbing shoes dramatically increased the surfaces that climbers could "smear" on. While the technique is used to some degree on almost every type of rock climbing route, it
9558-439: The much-photographed crux-pitch of the big wall route, Pre-Muir Wall , on El Capitan, and the groove-pitch of the multi-pitch route, The Quarryman , in Wales. One of the most important revolutions in rock climbing technique was the development of 'jamming'. This involves placing — or "jamming" — the climber's body parts into cracks in the rock which they then pull on to gain upward momentum. Jamming brought free climbing to
9676-439: The much-photographed crux-pitch of the big wall route, Pre-Muir Wall , on El Capitan, and the groove-pitch of the multi-pitch route, The Quarryman , in Wales. One of the most important revolutions in rock climbing technique was the development of 'jamming'. This involves placing — or "jamming" — the climber's body parts into cracks in the rock which they then pull on to gain upward momentum. Jamming brought free climbing to
9794-557: The natural environment. Artificial walls include novel features such as volume holds and sloper holds , which indoor route setters use to challenge climbers in very specific and unusual ways. As most competition climbing events are held on indoor walls, many contemporary climbers have spent their careers training and competing on artificial indoor walls. This revolution in the design of indoor climbing holds has affected how climbers now approach outdoor routes. Modern indoor walls can have their routes graded for technical difficulty in
9912-557: The natural environment. Artificial walls include novel features such as volume holds and sloper holds , which indoor route setters use to challenge climbers in very specific and unusual ways. As most competition climbing events are held on indoor walls, many contemporary climbers have spent their careers training and competing on artificial indoor walls. This revolution in the design of indoor climbing holds has affected how climbers now approach outdoor routes. Modern indoor walls can have their routes graded for technical difficulty in
10030-432: The outdoor environment. The wide range of types has helped more people access the sport in the way that best suits them. In rock climbing, the term "style" principally refers to whether the climber used any artificial aid to help them to ascend the climbing route, which is called aid climbing , or whether they used no aid whatsoever, which is called free climbing . Climbers who ascend a new route but using aid have made
10148-432: The outdoor environment. The wide range of types has helped more people access the sport in the way that best suits them. In rock climbing, the term "style" principally refers to whether the climber used any artificial aid to help them to ascend the climbing route, which is called aid climbing , or whether they used no aid whatsoever, which is called free climbing . Climbers who ascend a new route but using aid have made
10266-434: The outside edge of their opposite leg; this gives them greater upward reach while keeping their hips close to the rock face. Linked to 'back-stepping' is the use of the free leg as a counter-balance to avoid the climber swinging away from the rock, and to support other movements, which is called 'flagging'. Good climbing technique emphasizes the use of the legs to hold body weight and to gain upward momentum, which includes
10384-434: The outside edge of their opposite leg; this gives them greater upward reach while keeping their hips close to the rock face. Linked to 'back-stepping' is the use of the free leg as a counter-balance to avoid the climber swinging away from the rock, and to support other movements, which is called 'flagging'. Good climbing technique emphasizes the use of the legs to hold body weight and to gain upward momentum, which includes
10502-489: The photographic sandstone 'splitter cracks' of Indian Creek such as on the famous crack climbing route, Supercrack . Finger jamming was also used to open harder routes up very thin cracks on many rock types around the world, and remains an important technique on the world's hardest traditional climbing routes — where cracks are needed to insert the temporary climbing protection — with notable examples such as on Cobra Crack (and its famous and painful one-finger jam) and on
10620-489: The photographic sandstone 'splitter cracks' of Indian Creek such as on the famous crack climbing route, Supercrack . Finger jamming was also used to open harder routes up very thin cracks on many rock types around the world, and remains an important technique on the world's hardest traditional climbing routes — where cracks are needed to insert the temporary climbing protection — with notable examples such as on Cobra Crack (and its famous and painful one-finger jam) and on
10738-528: The related big wall climbing, adds devices to assist in ascending and descending fixed ropes . Finally, aid climbing uses unique equipment to assist the climber in their upward movement (e.g. aiders ). The equipment used in rock climbing can be grouped into the following categories: The development of rock-climbing techniques was as important as the development of rock-climbing equipment in increasing standards and reaching new grade milestones. Several techniques were particularly notable for their impact on
10856-528: The related big wall climbing, adds devices to assist in ascending and descending fixed ropes . Finally, aid climbing uses unique equipment to assist the climber in their upward movement (e.g. aiders ). The equipment used in rock climbing can be grouped into the following categories: The development of rock-climbing techniques was as important as the development of rock-climbing equipment in increasing standards and reaching new grade milestones. Several techniques were particularly notable for their impact on
10974-436: The rope if the 'lead climber' falls. Once the 'lead climber' reaches the top, they create an anchor from which they can act as the 'belayer' (but from above), controlling the rope while the 'second' ascends. Another key concept is that of climbing protection (or 'gear' or 'rack'). Early 20th-century rock climbers relied on the 'lead climber' looping the rope around natural spikes of rock as they ascended. If they fell, and
11092-436: The rope if the 'lead climber' falls. Once the 'lead climber' reaches the top, they create an anchor from which they can act as the 'belayer' (but from above), controlling the rope while the 'second' ascends. Another key concept is that of climbing protection (or 'gear' or 'rack'). Early 20th-century rock climbers relied on the 'lead climber' looping the rope around natural spikes of rock as they ascended. If they fell, and
11210-426: The route and overcome its challenges with a rope attached to their harness. The other member — the 'belayer' (or 'second') — will remain standing at the base of the route but controlling the other end of the rope, which is called belaying . The 'belayer' uses a mechanical belay device to attach the rope to their harness from which they can 'pay-out' the rope as the 'lead climber' ascends but with which they can lock
11328-426: The route and overcome its challenges with a rope attached to their harness. The other member — the 'belayer' (or 'second') — will remain standing at the base of the route but controlling the other end of the rope, which is called belaying . The 'belayer' uses a mechanical belay device to attach the rope to their harness from which they can 'pay-out' the rope as the 'lead climber' ascends but with which they can lock
11446-442: The route many times before finally ascending it is called a redpoint ; most major new FFAs in rock climbing are done as redpoints. In 2021, German climber Alexander Megos expanded that "style" in rock climbing should include a detailed understanding of the conditions in which an ascent was made, saying "It seems like the climbing community is not differentiating at all and rarely mentioning HOW things are climbed". He felt this
11564-442: The route many times before finally ascending it is called a redpoint ; most major new FFAs in rock climbing are done as redpoints. In 2021, German climber Alexander Megos expanded that "style" in rock climbing should include a detailed understanding of the conditions in which an ascent was made, saying "It seems like the climbing community is not differentiating at all and rarely mentioning HOW things are climbed". He felt this
11682-452: The route that is being undertaken and the type of climbing that is being followed. For example, bouldering needs the least equipment outside of climbing shoes , climbing chalk , and optional crash pads . Sport climbing adds ropes , harnesses , belay devices , and quickdraws to clip into pre-drilled bolts . Traditional climbing adds the need to carry a "rack" of temporary passive and active protection devices . Multi-pitch climbing, and
11800-452: The route that is being undertaken and the type of climbing that is being followed. For example, bouldering needs the least equipment outside of climbing shoes , climbing chalk , and optional crash pads . Sport climbing adds ropes , harnesses , belay devices , and quickdraws to clip into pre-drilled bolts . Traditional climbing adds the need to carry a "rack" of temporary passive and active protection devices . Multi-pitch climbing, and
11918-444: The route, the greater the danger and the greater range of techniques and equipment needed, however, the technical difficulty of a route is not correlated to its height. Climbers have spent as many years trying to ascend 4-metre (13 ft) routes such as Burden of Dreams , as they have on 1,000-metre (3,300 ft) routes like The Nose . Rock climbing routes at high-altitude, such as on big wall routes like Eternal Flame on
12036-444: The route, the greater the danger and the greater range of techniques and equipment needed, however, the technical difficulty of a route is not correlated to its height. Climbers have spent as many years trying to ascend 4-metre (13 ft) routes such as Burden of Dreams , as they have on 1,000-metre (3,300 ft) routes like The Nose . Rock climbing routes at high-altitude, such as on big wall routes like Eternal Flame on
12154-546: The same manner as outdoor natural routes. The MoonBoard climbing wall has a 'grid' of 200 climbing holds that can be climbed in over 50,000 sequences, with sequences created and graded by an online community. Even the 2024 Olympic artificial climbing walls were graded with the women's walls at up to 5.14c (8c+) for lead and V12 (8A+) for bouldering, and the men's walls at up to 5.14d (9a) for lead and V14 (8B+) for bouldering. Artificial walls have been created that have been estimated to be at or above
12272-546: The same manner as outdoor natural routes. The MoonBoard climbing wall has a 'grid' of 200 climbing holds that can be climbed in over 50,000 sequences, with sequences created and graded by an online community. Even the 2024 Olympic artificial climbing walls were graded with the women's walls at up to 5.14c (8c+) for lead and V12 (8A+) for bouldering, and the men's walls at up to 5.14d (9a) for lead and V14 (8B+) for bouldering. Artificial walls have been created that have been estimated to be at or above
12390-602: The smearing technique for upward momentum. 'Palming' is smearing with the open hands, and is used on smooth holds that cannot be gripped by the fingers, which are called 'slopers'. Palming is also often used when 'bridging' and 'chimneying' where the hands are pushing against the rock surfaces. The extensive use of large volume holds (also sloper holds) by route setters in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering has also made 'smearing' and 'palming' an important technique for contemporary competition climbers (see photo). As climbers tried harder and harder routes,
12508-602: The smearing technique for upward momentum. 'Palming' is smearing with the open hands, and is used on smooth holds that cannot be gripped by the fingers, which are called 'slopers'. Palming is also often used when 'bridging' and 'chimneying' where the hands are pushing against the rock surfaces. The extensive use of large volume holds (also sloper holds) by route setters in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering has also made 'smearing' and 'palming' an important technique for contemporary competition climbers (see photo). As climbers tried harder and harder routes,
12626-456: The sport — and on particular types of climbing routes — and are key for any aspiring rock climber to master. The development of route setters in competition climbing , who can artificially fine-tune a route to require the accurate use of specific techniques, has further increased the range of techniques that contemporary rock climbers need to master. Rock-climbing technique is built on having an effective body position and balance to maximize
12744-456: The sport — and on particular types of climbing routes — and are key for any aspiring rock climber to master. The development of route setters in competition climbing , who can artificially fine-tune a route to require the accurate use of specific techniques, has further increased the range of techniques that contemporary rock climbers need to master. Rock-climbing technique is built on having an effective body position and balance to maximize
12862-524: The standard in the main competition lead climbing events, has led to greater emphasis and refinement of many more advanced techniques, notable of which are: Climbing routes in rock climbing are given a grade that reflects the technical difficulty—and in some cases the risks and commitment level—of the route. The first ascensionist can suggest a grade, but it will be amended to reflect the consensus view of subsequent ascents, and recorded in online databased or physical guidebooks . While many countries with
12980-524: The standard in the main competition lead climbing events, has led to greater emphasis and refinement of many more advanced techniques, notable of which are: Climbing routes in rock climbing are given a grade that reflects the technical difficulty—and in some cases the risks and commitment level—of the route. The first ascensionist can suggest a grade, but it will be amended to reflect the consensus view of subsequent ascents, and recorded in online databased or physical guidebooks . While many countries with
13098-426: The technique of 'high-stepping' (i.e. lifting the feet above the waistline), which can be combined with 'heel hooking' (see image below), and the technique of 'rock-over' / 'rock-on' weight-transfer movements (i.e. transferring the weight to the higher leg but without explicitly pulling up on the arms). Early rock climbers began to distinguish themselves from general mountaineering scrambling techniques by executing
13216-426: The technique of 'high-stepping' (i.e. lifting the feet above the waistline), which can be combined with 'heel hooking' (see image below), and the technique of 'rock-over' / 'rock-on' weight-transfer movements (i.e. transferring the weight to the higher leg but without explicitly pulling up on the arms). Early rock climbers began to distinguish themselves from general mountaineering scrambling techniques by executing
13334-502: The use of bolted protection on outdoor routes is a source of ongoing debate in climbing. The sport's profile was increased when lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing became medal events in the Summer Olympics, and with the popularity of films such as Free Solo and The Dawn Wall . A key concept in many types of rock climbing is that of the ' lead climbing pair '. One member — the 'lead climber' — will try to climb
13452-437: The use of bolted protection on outdoor routes is a source of ongoing debate in climbing. The sport's profile was increased when lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing became medal events in the Summer Olympics, and with the popularity of films such as Free Solo and The Dawn Wall . A key concept in many types of rock climbing is that of the ' lead climbing pair '. One member — the 'lead climber' — will try to climb
13570-482: The world of ' crack climbing ', and rock climbers developed the technique for almost every body part, including the "body jam" (i.e. the whole body in the crack), the "arm jam", the "hand/fist jam", the "toe jam", and the "finger jam". Jamming techniques were notably employed on the long granite cracks of El Capitan, where they were used to free up important routes such as The Nose and The Salathe Wall , as well as on
13688-431: The world of ' crack climbing ', and rock climbers developed the technique for almost every body part, including the "body jam" (i.e. the whole body in the crack), the "arm jam", the "hand/fist jam", the "toe jam", and the "finger jam". Jamming techniques were notably employed on the long granite cracks of El Capitan, where they were used to free up important routes such as The Nose and The Salathe Wall , as well as on
13806-423: Was a particular concern in bouldering where the use of knee pads and whether the climb was commenced as a full sit start (and from what point), can affect the technical difficulty of the climb, and needed to be recorded alongside the ascent of the route itself. The length of the climbing route materially influences the type of rock-climbing techniques that can be used and the type of rock-climbing equipment that
13924-423: Was a particular concern in bouldering where the use of knee pads and whether the climb was commenced as a full sit start (and from what point), can affect the technical difficulty of the climb, and needed to be recorded alongside the ascent of the route itself. The length of the climbing route materially influences the type of rock-climbing techniques that can be used and the type of rock-climbing equipment that
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