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43-523: Susan Mary Yeats ( / ˈ j eɪ t s / ; 25 August 1866 – 5 January 1949), known as Lily Yeats , was an embroiderer associated with the Celtic Revival . In 1908 she founded the embroidery department of Cuala Industries, with which she was involved until its dissolution in 1931. She is known for her embroidered pictures. Born in Enniscrone , County Sligo , Ireland on 25 August 1866, she

86-443: A folk art , using materials that were accessible to nonprofessionals. Examples include Hardanger embroidery from Norway; Merezhka from Ukraine ; Mountmellick embroidery from Ireland; Nakshi kantha from Bangladesh and West Bengal ; Achachi from Peru ; and Brazilian embroidery . Many techniques had a practical use such as Sashiko from Japan , which was used as a way to reinforce clothing. While historically viewed as

129-469: A copy of The Epistles of Saint Paul, whose cover was reputedly embroidered by the Queen. In 18th-century England and its colonies, with the rise of the merchant class and the wider availability of luxury materials, rich embroideries began to appear in a secular context. These embroideries took the form of items displayed in private homes of well-to-do citizens, as opposed to a church or royal setting. Even so,

172-408: A fabric mesh to create a dense pattern that completely covers the foundation fabric. Examples of canvas work include bargello and Berlin wool work . Embroidery can also be classified by the similarity of its appearance. In drawn thread work and cutwork , the foundation fabric is deformed or cut away to create holes that are then embellished with embroidery, often with thread in the same color as

215-509: A few similar stitches in a variety of hues. In contrast, many forms of surface embroidery make use of a wide range of stitching patterns in a single piece of work. Training women in traditional embroidery skills in Inner Mongolia , was begun by Bai Jingying as a reaction to the financial pressures caused by the impact of climate change, including desertification , in the region. Embroidery can be classified according to what degree

258-424: A pastime, activity, or hobby, intended just for women, embroidery has often been used as a form of biography. Women who were unable to access a formal education or, at times, writing implements, were often taught embroidery and utilized it as a means of documenting their lives by telling stories through their embroidery. In terms of documenting the histories of marginalized groups, especially women of color both within

301-433: A predetermined number of threads in the foundation fabric. Counted-thread embroidery is more easily worked on an even-weave foundation fabric such as embroidery canvas , aida cloth , or specially woven cotton and linen fabrics. Examples include cross-stitch and some forms of blackwork embroidery . While similar to counted thread in regards to technique, in canvas work or needlepoint , threads are stitched through

344-543: A primitive to a later, more refined stage. On the other hand, we often find in early works a technical accomplishment and high standard of craftsmanship rarely attained in later times. The art of embroidery has been found worldwide and several early examples have been found. Works in China have been dated to the Warring States period (5th–3rd century BC). In a garment from Migration period Sweden, roughly 300–700 AD,

387-428: A result of an increasing need for relaxation and digitally disconnecting practices. Modern hand embroidery, as opposed to cross-stitching , is characterized by a more "liberal" approach, where stitches are more freely combined in unconventional ways to create various textures and designs. Modern canvas work tends to follow symmetrical counted stitching patterns with designs emerging from the repetition of one or just

430-509: A time as a governess at Hyère in the south of France. Whilst there, she contracted typhoid , and returned to London in December 1896. From late 1897, writer Susan L. Mitchell lodged with the Yeats family, when Yeats and Mitchell became close friends. By 10 December 1888 Yeats had returned to Morris & Co. and was paid ten shillings for her first week's work for the firm. By March 1889 Lily

473-644: A variety of works, from the royal to the mundane. Examples of high status items include elaborately embroidered clothing, religious objects, and household items often were seen as a mark of wealth and status. In medieval England, Opus Anglicanum , a technique used by professional workshops and guilds in medieval England , was used to embellish textiles used in church rituals. In 16th century England, some books, usually bibles or other religious texts, had embroidered bindings. The Bodleian Library in Oxford contains one presented to Queen Elizabeth I in 1583. It also owns

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516-411: Is prone to breaking and is avoided. There has also been a development in free hand machine embroidery, new machines have been designed that allow for the user to create free-motion embroidery which has its place in textile arts, quilting, dressmaking, home furnishings and more. Users can use the embroidery software to digitize the digital embroidery designs. These digitized design are then transferred to

559-405: Is used to add logos and monograms to business shirts or jackets, gifts, and team apparel as well as to decorate household items for the bed and bath and other linens, draperies, and decorator fabrics that mimic the elaborate hand embroidery of the past. Machine embroidery is most typically done with rayon thread , although polyester thread can also be used. Cotton thread, on the other hand,

602-542: The Celtic Revival of the early 20th century. Originally Dun Emer Press , from 1908 until the late 1940s it functioned as Cuala Press, publicising the works of such writers as Yeats, Lady Gregory, Colum, Synge, and Gogarty. At the suggestion of Emery Walker , Elizabeth Yeats trained as a printer at the Women's Printing Society in London. In 1902, Elizabeth Yeats and her sister Lily joined their friend Evelyn Gleeson in

645-1006: The Norman conquest of Ireland . It was intended that the new press would produce work by writers associated with the Irish Literary Revival . They ended up publishing over 70 titles in total, including 48 by W. B. Yeats. The press closed in 1946. The Cuala was unusual in that it was the only Arts and Crafts press to be run and staffed by women and the only one that published new work rather than established classics. In addition to Yeats, Cuala published works by Ezra Pound , Jack B. Yeats , Padraic Colum , Robin Flower , Elizabeth Bowen , Oliver St John Gogarty , Lady Gregory , Douglas Hyde , Lionel Johnson , Patrick Kavanagh , Louis MacNeice , John Masefield , Frank O'Connor , John Millington Synge , John Butler Yeats , Rabindranath Tagore and others. After Elizabeth Yeats died in 1940,

688-424: The "craft of the two hands". In cities such as Damascus , Cairo and Istanbul , embroidery was visible on handkerchiefs , uniforms, flags, calligraphy , shoes, robes , tunics, horse trappings, slippers, sheaths, pouches, covers, and even on leather belts . Craftsmen embroidered items with gold and silver thread. Embroidery cottage industries, some employing over 800 people, grew to supply these items. In

731-508: The 16th century, in the reign of the Mughal Emperor Akbar , his chronicler Abu al-Fazl ibn Mubarak wrote in the famous Ain-i-Akbari : His majesty [Akbar] pays much attention to various stuffs; hence Irani , Ottoman , and Mongolian articles of wear are in much abundance especially textiles embroidered in the patterns of Nakshi , Saadi , Chikhan , Ari , Zardozi , Wastli , Gota and Kohra . The imperial workshops in

774-557: The Royal Dublin Society. The Yeats family moved to Eardley Crescent, South Kensington , Yeats became ill and was sent to live with relatives. She eventually went to live with her aunt Elizabeth Pollexfen Orr and her invalided mother in Huddersfield in 1887. In 1888, she returned to the family home in 3 Blenheim Road, Bedford Park. From here, the family often visited with William Morris at Kelmscott House . Money

817-602: The United States and around the world, embroidery is a means of studying the everyday lives of those whose lives largely went unstudied throughout much of history. Since the late 2010s, there has been a growth in the popularity of embroidering by hand. As a result of visual social media such as Pinterest and Instagram , artists are able to share their work more extensively, which has inspired younger generations to pick up needle and threads. Contemporary embroidery artists believe hand embroidery has grown in popularity as

860-627: The Yeats family moved to 14 Edith Villas, West Kensington , London. Whilst living there, Yeats and her siblings were educated by a governess, Martha Jowitt until 1876. In 1878, the family moved to a larger house in Bedford Park , Chiswick , where she attended Notting Hill school for a short time.The Yeats family moved to Howth , County Dublin in 1881, where Lily enrolled in the Dublin Metropolitan School of Art along with her sister Elizabeth in 1883. They also took classes in

903-550: The decision was made to dissolve the embroidery branch of Cuala. At the time, Lily wrote I never should have taken up the work after my illness. The eight years have been a very great strain, and each year a small loss, adding up. Lily Yeats continued to sell embroidered pictures in the following years. She died in 1949. Embroidery Some of the basic techniques or stitches of the earliest embroidery are chain stitch , buttonhole or blanket stitch , running stitch , satin stitch , and cross stitch . Those stitches remain

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946-495: The design takes into account the nature of the base material and by the relationship of stitch placement to the fabric. The main categories are free or surface embroidery , counted-thread embroidery , and needlepoint or canvas work. In free or surface embroidery, designs are applied without regard to the weave of the underlying fabric. Examples include crewel and traditional Chinese and Japanese embroidery. Counted-thread embroidery patterns are created by making stitches over

989-678: The direction of the Yeats sisters, and in 1908 the groups separated completely. Gleeson retained the Dun Emer name, and the Yeats sisters established Cuala Industries at nearby Churchtown, which ran the Cuala Press and an embroidery workshop. The sisters' cousin Ruth Pollexfen served as an apprentice to Lily and gave embroidery lessons at the workshop. Cuala (or Cualu) was the name of the Gaelic territory covering south Dublin before

1032-422: The early twentieth century and developed a machine embroidery industry there. Shiffli machines have continued to evolve and are still used for industrial scale embroidery. Contemporary embroidery is stitched with a computerized embroidery machine using patterns digitized with embroidery software . In machine embroidery , different types of "fills" add texture and design to the finished work. Machine embroidery

1075-418: The edges of bands of trimming are reinforced with running stitch, back stitch, stem stitch, tailor's buttonhole stitch, and Whip stitch, but it is uncertain whether this work simply reinforced the seams or should be interpreted as decorative embroidery. Depending on time, location and materials available, embroidery could be the domain of a few experts or a widespread, popular technique. This flexibility led to

1118-484: The embroideries themselves may still have had religious themes. Samplers employing fine silks were produced by the daughters of wealthy families. Embroidery was a skill marking a girl's path into womanhood as well as conveying rank and social standing. Embroidery was an important art and signified social status in the Medieval Islamic world as well. The 17th-century Turkish traveler Evliya Çelebi called it

1161-532: The embroidery machine with the help of a flash drive and then the embroidery machine embroiders the selected design onto the fabric. In Greek mythology the goddess Athena is said to have passed down the art of embroidery (along with weaving ) to humans, leading to the famed competition between herself and the mortal Arachne . Cuala Press The Cuala Press was an Irish private press set up in 1908 by Elizabeth Yeats with support from her brother William Butler Yeats that played an important role in

1204-572: The enterprise, teaching them painting, drawing, cooking, sewing, and the Irish language in addition to the Guild's core crafts. Lily Yeats ran the embroidery department, which created textiles for church decoration and domestic use. In 1904, the operation was reorganized into two parts, the Dun Emer Guild run by Gleeson and Dun Emer Industries under the direction of the Yeats sisters, and in 1908

1247-490: The establishment of a craft studio near Dublin which they named Dun Emer. Dun Emer became a focus of the burgeoning Irish Arts and Crafts Movement, specialising in printing, embroidery , and rug and tapestry -making. Elizabeth ran the printing operation, and Lily managed the needlework department. In 1904, the operation was reorganised into two parts, the Dun Emer Guild run by Gleeson and Dun Emer Industries under

1290-406: The foundation fabric. When created with white thread on white linen or cotton, this work is collectively referred to as whitework . However, whitework can either be counted or free. Hardanger embroidery is a counted embroidery and the designs are often geometric. Conversely, styles such as Broderie anglaise are similar to free embroidery, with floral or abstract designs that are not dependent on

1333-477: The fundamental techniques of hand embroidery today. The process used to tailor, patch, mend and reinforce cloth fostered the development of sewing techniques, and the decorative possibilities of sewing led to the art of embroidery. Indeed, the remarkable stability of basic embroidery stitches has been noted: It is a striking fact that in the development of embroidery ... there are no changes of materials or techniques which can be felt or interpreted as advances from

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1376-540: The groups separated completely. Gleeson retained the Dun Emer name, and the Yeats sisters established Cuala Industries at nearby Churchtown, which ran a small press, the Cuala Press , and an embroidery workshop. William Butler Yeats's wife George (Bertha Georgina), helped Lily run the embroidery arm of the studio which produced clothing and linens. The Yeats sisters lived together through their adult lives, albeit contentiously. In 1923, Lily fell dangerously ill with what

1419-501: The guardianship of her teenage cousin Ruth Pollexfen , a talented embroiderer in her own right. In 1902 the sisters and Gleeson founded a craft studio near Dublin which they named Dun Emer (the Fort of Emer) after Emer , the wife of Irish legendary hero Cuchullain . Dun Emer became a focus of the burgeoning Irish Arts and Crafts Movement, focusing on embroidery, printing , and rug and tapestry -making. They recruited young local women to

1462-531: The material and ensure even stitching tension that prevents pattern distortion. The development of machine embroidery and its mass production came about in stages during the Industrial Revolution . The first embroidery machine was the hand embroidery machine , invented in France in 1832 by Josué Heilmann. The next evolutionary step was the schiffli embroidery machine . The latter borrowed from

1505-445: The most economical of expensive yarns; couching is generally used for goldwork . Canvas work techniques, in which large amounts of yarn are buried on the back of the work, use more materials but provide a sturdier and more substantial finished textile. A needle is the main stitching tool in embroidery, and comes in various sizes and types. In both canvas work and surface embroidery an embroidery hoop or frame can be used to stretch

1548-516: The sewing machine and the Jacquard loom to fully automate its operation. The manufacture of machine-made embroideries in St. Gallen in eastern Switzerland flourished in the latter half of the 19th century. Both St. Gallen, Switzerland and Plauen, Germany were important centers for machine embroidery and embroidery machine development. Many Swiss and Germans immigrated to Hudson county, New Jersey in

1591-401: The towns of Lahore , Agra , Fatehpur and Ahmedabad turn out many masterpieces of workmanship in fabrics, and the figures and patterns, knots and variety of fashions which now prevail astonish even the most experienced travelers. Taste for fine material has since become general, and the drapery of embroidered fabrics used at feasts surpasses every description. Conversely, embroidery is also

1634-542: The weave of the fabric. The fabrics and yarns used in traditional embroidery vary from place to place. Wool , linen , and silk have been in use for thousands of years for both fabric and yarn . Today, embroidery thread is manufactured in cotton , rayon , and novelty yarns as well as in traditional wool, linen, and silk. Ribbon embroidery uses narrow ribbon in silk or silk/ organza blend ribbon, most commonly to create floral motifs. Surface embroidery techniques such as chain stitch and couching or laid-work are

1677-477: The work of the press was carried on by two of her long-time assistants, Esther Ryan and Mollie Gill under the management of Georgie Hyde-Lees . The final Cuala title was Stranger in Aran by Elizabeth Rivers , which was published on 31 July 1946. In 1969 the press was taken up by W. B. Yeats' children, Michael and Anne Yeats , with Liam Miller. Some titles were run in the 1970s, and archives are still held by

1720-450: Was believed to be tuberculosis while on holiday in London, and her brother lodged her in a London nursing home in July, where she remained until the following April. On her recovery, she returned to Cuala, but the embroidery department was never a resounding success. Lily's health deteriorated again in 1931 (her ailment had finally been correctly diagnosed as a malformed thyroid in 1929), and

1763-532: Was the daughter of John Butler Yeats and Susan Yeats (née Pollexfen). Her siblings were William Butler , Jack and Elizabeth Yeats . She was a sick child. Susan brought the children every year on holidays to her parents recently acquired home at Merville (1965) just outside the town of Sligo, sometimes staying til Christmas. The longest time was from July 1872 until November 1874, during which time John Butler often joined them. The maternal grandparents were William Pollexfen and Elizabeth (nee Middleton). In late 1874

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1806-475: Was tight, and Lily was offered an opportunity to learn embroidery in the style propounded by Morris, which would become known as art needlework . She attended the Chiswick School of Art with her sister Susan and brother Jack and also studied under Morris's daughter May , who ran the embroidery section of Morris & Co. and worked there until April 1894 when she left due to ill health. She worked for

1849-521: Was training embroideresses for the firm. Lily continued to work under May Morris for six years, but their relationship was strained (she called her employer "the Gorgon" in her scrapbook) In 1895, Lily caught typhoid fever while in France, and her health remained uncertain for the remainder of the decade. After their mother's death in 1900, Lily and her sister Elizabeth returned to Ireland with their friend Evelyn Gleeson . By this time Lily had also assumed

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