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Llano Estacado

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The Llano Estacado ( Spanish: [ˈʝano estaˈkaðo] ), sometimes translated into English as the Staked Plains , is a region in the Southwestern United States that encompasses parts of eastern New Mexico and northwestern Texas . One of the largest mesas or tablelands on the North American continent, the elevation rises from 3,000 feet (900 m) in the southeast to over 5,000 feet (1,500 m) in the northwest, sloping almost uniformly at about 10 feet per mile (2 m/km).

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42-532: The Spanish name Llano Estacado is often interpreted as meaning "Staked Plains", although " stockaded " or " palisaded plains" have also been proposed, in which case the name would derive from the steep escarpments on the eastern, northern, and western periphery of the plains. Leatherwood writes that Francisco Coronado and other European explorers described the Mescalero Ridge on the western boundary as resembling "palisades, ramparts, or stockades" of

84-609: A fort, but does not present the original Spanish. In Beyond the Mississippi (1867), Albert D. Richardson , who traversed the region from east to west in October 1859, wrote that "the ancient Mexicans marked a route with stakes over this vast desert, and hence its name." Other sources refer to "stakes" used to mark routes on the featureless plain, often meaning piles of stone, bone, and cow dung . According to Place Names of New Mexico , others have speculated that "stakes" refers to

126-459: A route to the south of US 80, with slower construction in the lesser populated areas of West Texas concurrent with US 80. On December 2, 1971, I-20 was rerouted across the southern side of the Dallas–Fort Worth metroplex, with the old section through downtown Dallas and Fort Worth being redesignated as I-30. In 1991, the entire concurrent designation of US 80 was removed from

168-543: A three-quarter loop around the city) on Dallas' southeast side before heading east toward East Texas. The Interstate varies from 4 to 10 lanes from its I-30 junction near Aledo to its US 80 junction near Terrell. I-20 leaves the Dallas–Fort Worth metroplex and heads generally to the east-southeast through East Texas. I-20 begins heading to the east as it passes to the north of the city of Canton . The intersection of I-20 at US 69 in Lindale just north of Tyler

210-522: A treeless, desolate waste of uninhabitable solitude, which always has been, and must continue uninhabited forever. During the 1854 Marcy-Neighbors expedition, Dr. George Getz Shumard noted, "Beyond the mountain appeared a line of high bluffs (the Llano Estacado) which in the distance looked like clouds floating upon the horizon." Herman Lehmann was captured by the Apache in 1870 and described

252-669: Is a major east–west Interstate Highway in the Southern United States , running east from a junction with I-10 east of Kent, Texas , through the Dallas–Fort Worth metroplex to the Louisiana state line near Waskom, Texas . The original distance of I-20 was 647 miles (1,041 km) from I-10 to the Louisiana state line, reduced to the current distance of 636 miles (1,024 km) with the rerouting of I-20 in

294-562: Is a wedge of sediments built up eastward of the Rocky Mountains as they were uplifted in the Miocene , with the consequent alluvial fans referred to as the "Gangplank". The Ogallala Aquifer is the main freshwater source for the region and consists of braided stream deposits filling in valleys during humid climatic conditions, followed by a sub-humid to arid climate and thick eolian (wind-blown) sand and silt. Caliche layers cap

336-585: Is deeply entrenched in Texas mythology, but the real interpretation of Llano Estacado is sensible geologic: it means 'stockaded' or 'palisaded' plains - which is precisely how the edge of the plains appear when viewed from below the caprock . The Llano Estacado lies at the southern end of the Western High Plains ecoregion of the Great Plains of North America; it is part of what was once called

378-535: Is dotted by numerous small playa lakes , depressions that seasonally fill with water and provide habitat for waterfowl . The Llano Estacado has a cold semiarid climate ( Köppen BSk ), characterized by long, hot summers and cold winters. Rainfall is relatively low; the entire region receives fewer than 23 in (580 mm) of rainfall annually, and the western part receives as little as 14 in (360 mm). High summer temperatures (average high July temperature above 90 °F or 32 °C) mean that most of

420-402: Is the highest traffic count intersection on I-20 east of Terrell to the Louisiana state line. From Lindale, I-20 continues east, going through the piney woods region of East Texas intersecting US 259 with Kilgore to the south and Longview to the north and US 59 future I-369 with Marshall just to the north and Texarkana further north along US 59 future I-369. I-20 leaves

462-625: The California Gold Rush , "... travelling across an elevated plateau almost covered by rock ..." After his 1852 expedition to explore the headwaters of the Red and Colorado Rivers, General Randolph Marcy wrote: "[not] a tree, shrub, or any other herbage to intercept the vision ... the almost total absence of water causes all animals to shun it: even the Indians do not venture to cross it except at two or three places." In his report for

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504-566: The Edwards Plateau near Big Spring, Texas . This geographic area stretches about 250 miles (400 km) north to south, and 150 miles (240 km) east to west, a total area of some 32,000 square miles (83,000 km), larger than Indiana and 12 other states. It covers all or part of 33 Texas counties and four New Mexico counties. The area is susceptible to frequent dust storms because of its low relief, frequent turbulent winds, lack of vegetation, and loose topsoil. The landscape

546-843: The Great American Desert . The Canadian River forms the Llano's northern boundary, separating it from the rest of the High Plains. To the east, the Caprock Escarpment , a precipitous cliff about 300 feet (100 m) high, lies between the Llano and the red Permian plains of Texas; while to the west, the Mescalero Escarpment demarcates the eastern edge of the Pecos River valley. The Llano has no natural southern boundary, instead blending into

588-665: The Horsehead Crossing of the Pecos River , then forked southward to the Comanche Springs where it divided, one part of the trail crossing the great river near Boquillas and the other at Presidio ." Rachel Plummer , while a captive of the Comanche in 1836, mentioned the "table lands between Austin and Santa Fe". Robert Neighbors and Rip Ford , guided by Buffalo Hump , blazed the "upper route" trail from San Antonio to El Paso in 1849 for emigrants during

630-525: The United States Army : When we were upon the high table-land, a view presented itself as boundless as the ocean. Not a tree, shrub, or any other object, either animate or inanimate, relieved the dreary monotony of the prospect; it was a vast-illimitable expanse of desert prairie . ... the great Sahara of North America . it is a region almost as vast and trackless as the ocean—a land where no man, either savage or civilized permanently abides ...

672-496: The 1980s and 1990s. I-20 is known as the Ronald Reagan Memorial Highway within the Dallas–Fort Worth metroplex . I-20 in Texas was designated in 1959, and was to replace or run parallel to U.S. Route 80 (US 80). Initial construction began from east to west and as bypass loops around larger cities. By 1967, the highway was complete from the Louisiana state line to the western side of Fort Worth on

714-468: The I-10 interchange to Dallas. I-20 begins its eastward journey at a junction with I-10 in a desolate region of West Texas about 6 miles (10 km) east of the town of Kent . I-20 leaves the interchange with I-10 with a speed limit of 80 mph (130 km/h) until milemarker 89. I-20 also generally heads to the east-northeast passing by the cities of Odessa and Midland while transitioning from

756-537: The Llano Estacado as "open, but not exactly a desert". Robert G. Carter described it in 1871 while pursuing Quanah Parker with Ranald S. Mackenzie , "... all were over and out of the canyon upon what appeared to be a vast, almost illimitable expanse of prairie. As far as the eye could reach, not a bush or tree, a twig or stone, not an object of any kind or a living thing, was in sight. It stretched out before us-one uninterrupted plain, only to be compared to

798-477: The Ogallala, which reflect today's arid conditions. Pleistocene rainfall over the flat terrain caused water to pond at the surface, resulting in a High Plains characteristic, innumerable round ponds called playa lakes . Spearing goes on to say, When the weather is dry, they are dusty, round, gray, usually unvegetated flats, as observed from the highway. But after a High Plains thunderstorm, water quickly fills

840-557: The Rocky Mountains. The economy of the Llano Estacado is predominantly agricultural, with farming of various crops prevalent, as is cattle ranching . Oil and gas production is also intense throughout the Llano Estacado making it one of the most productive petrochemical areas in the United States. Overuse of the aquifer in the past has persuaded some farmers to return to dryland crops, leading to less rainwater reaching

882-579: The US Army was fought on 28 September 1874 in the Battle of Palo Duro Canyon . Charles Goodnight described what it takes to be a scout: "... the trained ear should be able to tell the sound, whether it was made by man or beast or bird ... as a human voice echoes more than all others ... of course, on the Staked Plains we have not this advantage as there is nothing to create an echo." Today, most of

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924-585: The West Texas desert to the prairie. I-20 runs concurrently with the La Entrada al Pacífico corridor from its junction with US 385 in Odessa to its junction with Farm to Market Road 1788 (FM 1788) near Midland International Airport . Near Sweetwater , I-20 begins to head east as it heads toward the city of Abilene . In Abilene, I-20 curves toward the north and transverses the northern part of

966-500: The alphabetic suffixes on business route names ascend eastward and northward. There are gaps in the alphabetic values to allow for future system expansion. The alphabetic naming suffixes are included as small letters on the bottom of route shields. State Highway Loop 254 (Loop 254) takes the place of a business route in Ranger, Texas , and follows the original route of US 80. I-20 business routes in Texas generally follow

1008-430: The area's population is localized in the principal cities of Amarillo , Lubbock , Midland and Odessa , Texas. The vast majority of the area is rural , covered by large ranches and irrigated farms. Several small- to medium-sized towns do exist, however, including Andrews , Hereford , Plainview , Levelland , Big Spring, and Lamesa , Texas, and Hobbs , Clovis , and Portales , New Mexico. The Ogallala Formation

1050-514: The city while also forming the northern arc of the loop around the city. I-20 continues heading east from Abilene until the town of Eastland when I-20 takes a more northeasterly route toward Weatherford while transitioning from the West Texas prairie to the central plains of North Texas as the terrain grows hilly. In Weatherford, I-20 again heads back toward the east as it heads toward the Dallas–Fort Worth metroplex . I-20 interchanges with I-30 west of Fort Worth with I-30 heading east and I-20 to

1092-648: The early 18th century, the Comanches expanded their territory into the Llano Estacado, displacing the Apaches who had previously lived there. The region became part of the Comancheria , a Comanche stronghold until the final defeat of the tribe in the late 19th century. The Comanche war trail extended from Llano Estacado to the Rio Grande into Chihuahua , "the trail ran southwesterly through Big Spring to

1134-401: The first European to traverse this "sea of grass" in 1541, described it as follows: I reached some plains so vast, that I did not find their limit anywhere I went, although I traveled over them for more than 300 leagues ... with no more land marks than if we had been swallowed up by the sea ... there was not a stone, nor bit of rising ground, nor a tree, nor a shrub, nor anything to go by. In

1176-401: The following New Mexico counties: Several interstate highways serve the Llano Estacado. Interstate 40 crosses the northern portion from east of Amarillo to Tucumcari, New Mexico. Interstate 27 runs north-south between Amarillo and Lubbock, while Interstate 20 passes through the southern portion of the Llano Estacado west of Midland and Odessa. Spanish conquistador Francisco Coronado ,

1218-621: The materials, raise a stone or brick wall inside the stockade, creating a more permanent defence while working protected. The word stockade also refers to a military prison in an army camp. In some cases, the term was applied to a crude prison camp or a slave camp. In these cases, the stockade keeps people inside, rather than out. Nowadays, stockade walls are often used as garden fencing, made of finished planks more useful for privacy fencing and more decoration than security. Interstate 20 (Texas) Interstate 20 in Texas ( I-20 )

1260-491: The more reliable Ogallala water sands. Predictably, the consequent high dependency on groundwater has removed more water than is naturally replaced, raising concern for Panhandle citizens and planners as to future water supplies. The Pecos and Canadian rivers have eroded the Llano Estacado region down to the Triassic and Permian redbeds resulting in a distinctive color contrast besides separating it from source rocks in

1302-585: The ocean in its vastness." In August 1872, Mackenzie was the first to successfully lead troops across the Staked Plains preparatory to the Battle of the North Fork of the Red River . Billy Dixon described the area while hunting buffalo in June 1874: "All of us hunters acquainted with the habits of the buffalo knew that the herds would soon be coming north from the Staked Plains region where they had spent

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1344-423: The perimeter. Sometimes they would add additional defence by placing sharpened sticks in a shallow secondary trench outside the stockade. In colder climates sometimes the stockade received a coating of clay or mud that would make the crude wall wind-proof. Builders could also place stones or thick mud layers at the foot of the stockade, improving the resistance of the wall. From that the defenders could, if they had

1386-410: The playas. "Cotton, grain sorghum, corn, wheat, peanuts, sunflowers, grapes, vegetables, and cattle produced in the region literally go around the world. Their economic impact on our area is in the billions of dollars ... and the availability of water is a key factor influencing the region's agribusiness economy." One of the largest economic drivers on the Llano Estacado is in energy production, with

1428-422: The ponds, only later soaking into the underlying porous sandstones just below the surface to add to the groundwater in the Ogallala aquifer. Early pioneers depended dearly on water from these surface ponds for themselves and their livestock, considering how few streams are on the High Plains. But rains didn't always come, and the ponds dried up frequently. The 20th century has witnessed a concerted effort to tap

1470-507: The region experiencing significant activity for producing oil and natural gas associated with the Permian Basin . Additionally, solar and wind farms have proliferated on the Llano Estacado due to the region's dry and windy climate making it a favorable location for the production of renewable energy . Stockade A stockade is an enclosure of palisades and tall walls, made of logs placed side by side vertically, with

1512-413: The small amount of precipitation is lost to evaporation, making dryland farming difficult. The Texas State Historical Society states it covers all or part of 33 Texas counties, six fewer than as depicted by a US Geological Survey map, and four New Mexico counties. As depicted by a US Geological Survey map, the Llano Estacado includes all or part of these Texas counties: It also includes all or part of

1554-730: The southeast. I-20 heads back toward the east when it interchanges with I-820 . I-20 forms the southern arc of the complete loop around the city of Fort Worth , and serves as the southernmost west–east freeway in the Dallas–Fort Worth metroplex. Interchanging with I-35W south of downtown Fort Worth, I-20 heads east toward Dallas passing through Arlington , where it is also known as the Ronald Reagan Memorial Highway. From Arlington, I-20 passes into Dallas County at Grand Prairie and heads east in to Dallas, interchanging with I-35E south of downtown and I-45 shortly after. I-20 intersects with I-635 (where it completes

1596-596: The state of Texas near Waskom and just west of the Shreveport , Bossier City , Louisiana area. I-20 has one auxiliary route in Texas. All of the business loops within Texas are maintained by the Texas Department of Transportation (TxDOT). I-20 has fifteen business loops in the state, all located in western Texas. Along I-20, TxDOT identifies each business route as Business Interstate 20 (Bus. I-20) followed by an alphabetic suffix. Along Texas Interstates,

1638-541: The tops sharpened as a defensive wall . Stockade is derived from the French word estocade . The French word was derived from the Spanish word estacada . The troops or settlers would build a stockade by clearing a space of woodland and using the trees whole or chopped in half, with one end sharpened on each. They would dig a narrow trench around the area, and stand the sharpened logs side-by-side inside it, encircling

1680-579: The winter ... moved by that strange impulse that ... caused them to change their home and blacken the Plains with their countless, moving forms." Zane Grey , in his novel The Thundering Herd (1925), offered the following explanation for the name Llano Estacado: "Thet name Llano Estacado means Staked Plain," said the Texan. "It comes from the early days when the Spanish Trail from Santa Fe to San Antone

1722-539: The yucca plants that dot the plains. Leatherwood opines in the Handbook of Texas that such way markers could plausibly explain the origin of the name, but that the "comparison of cliff formations and palisades made by explorers argues more convincingly for the geological origin". In his Roadside Geology of Texas , Geologist Darwin Spearing also prefers the geological solution to the etymology: The 'Staked Plains' tale

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1764-604: Was marked by 'palos,' or stakes. There was only two trails across in them days an' I reckon no more now. Only the Indians know this plain well an' they only run in heah to hide awhile. Water an' grass are plentiful in some parts, an' then there's stretches of seventy miles dry an' bare as a bone." In the latter part of the 19th century, the Llano was a refuge for the bands of Kiowas and Comanches who did not wish to be confined to reservations in Indian Territory , in present-day Oklahoma . One of their last battles against

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