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Turnagain Arm

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Turnagain Arm ( Dena'ina : Tutl'uh ) is a waterway into the northwestern part of the Gulf of Alaska . It is one of two narrow branches at the north end of Cook Inlet , the other being Knik Arm . Turnagain is subject to climate extremes and large tide ranges.

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37-502: Turnagain extends in an east–west direction, and is between 40–45 miles (64–72 km) long. It forms part of the northern boundary of Kenai Peninsula , and reaches on the east to within 12 miles (19 km) of Passage Canal , a western branch of Prince William Sound . Turnagain is characterized by remarkably large tides of up to 40 feet (12 meters) which are the largest tides in the United States. The flood tide often begins with

74-524: A tidal bore especially on large tides with a strong east wind, which has a height of 6 feet (1.8 m) at times, and runs in from the west at a speed of 5–6 miles (8.0–9.7 km) an hour. At low tide, the arm becomes a broad mud flat, cut by the stream channels. Historically small steamers entered and left on high water though the practice is now rare since most if not all the places that they went are now connected by road. The region adjacent to Turnagain Arm

111-719: A branch of Cook Inlet . It is bordered to the west by the community of Hope . To the south the Hope Highway leads 7 miles (11 km) to Alaska Route 1 , the Sterling Highway . According to the United States Census Bureau , the Sunrise CDP has a total area of 13.0 square miles (33.7 km ), all of it recorded as land. Sunrise sits in a valley on the west side of Sixmile Creek. It is overlooked by 4,600-foot-high (1,400 m) peaks to

148-602: A portion of the southern edge of the Chugach State Park along Turnagain Arm. Turnagain Arm boasts the second highest tides in North America after the Bay of Fundy . These tides, which can reach 40 feet (12 meters), come in so quickly that they produce a wave known as a bore tide . Adventurous kayakers and surfers have taken to riding the tide as an extreme sport . Hikers should take care not to get stuck in

185-538: A restaurant and hotel. The city declined after 1900, with miners drawn to richer gold fields elsewhere in Alaska. Many of its buildings burned in the following years, and the last store closed in 1939. Remnants of the town on either side of Sixmile Creek have been designated an archaeological historic district , and were listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1997. Sunrise first appeared on

222-472: A succession of rocks, which as a whole are of remarkably uniform appearance and composition. They are of sedimentary origin and consist chiefly of fine-grained gray and bluish-black slates and gray arkoses. Interstratified with these, but in far less amount, are quartzose beds and occasional thin conglomerates. In a few places north of Turnagain Arm this series of rocks, called by Mendenhall "the Sunrise series",

259-546: Is a census-designated place (CDP) in Kenai Peninsula Borough , Alaska , United States. The population was 18 at the 2010 census, unchanged from 2000. Sunrise is located on the northern side of the Kenai Peninsula at 60°53′8″N 149°25′28″W  /  60.88556°N 149.42444°W  / 60.88556; -149.42444 (60.885663, -149.424556), on the south shore of Turnagain Arm ,

296-548: Is a major cruise ship port. The peninsula also has natural gas , petroleum , and coal deposits, as well as abundant commercial and personal-use fisheries. Tourism is a major industry, along with outfitting and guiding services for hunters and fishers. The Kenai Peninsula is known as "Alaska's Playground". Kenai National Wildlife Refuge encompasses nearly two million acres of the peninsula. 60°10′N 150°15′W  /  60.167°N 150.250°W  / 60.167; -150.250 Sunrise, Alaska Sunrise

333-402: Is cut by dikes of igneous rock of an aplitic or granitic character. These igneous rocks were not found in the region immediately south of the arm. The whole rock succession is closely folded, and the arkoses as well as the slates show cleavage, which is, however, much more perfectly developed in the slates. Immense deposits of gravel occur at a number of localities, but are especially noticeable in

370-743: Is derived from the word "Kenaitze" or "Kenaitze Indian Tribe", the name of the Native Athabascan Alaskan tribe, the Kahtnuht’ana Dena’ina ("People along the Kahtnu (Kenai River) "), who historically inhabited the area. They called the Kenai Peninsula Yaghanen ("the good land"). The peninsula extends about 150 miles (240 km) southwest from the Chugach Mountains , south of Anchorage . It

407-558: Is exceeded in individual size by the spruces. The conifers ascend the mountain slopes to about 2,000 feet (610 m) but above that point rapidly disappear. Beyond this elevation are alder thickets, small patches of dwarf willows and birches, and vast stretches of waving grass from 1–3 feet (0.30–0.91 m) high. Still higher, the slopes and rounded backs of the ridges are cushioned with a mass of heather and heather-like shrubs, chiefly Empetrum nigrum . This extends up to an approximate altitude of 5,000 feet (1,500 m), above which there

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444-457: Is low and comparatively flat, but is for the most part heavily wooded. The flora of the mountainous district about Turnagain Arm is different from that of the coastal plains of other parts of the inlet. The low country near Hope consists of a grassy tide flat, about 50 acres in extent, and a few miles of forest and occasional small swamps along the lower part of Resurrection Creek. Balsam poplars , paper birches , alders , and willows abound near

481-469: Is separated from the mainland on the west by Cook Inlet and on the east by Prince William Sound . Most of the peninsula is part of the Kenai Peninsula Borough . Athabaskan and Alutiiq Native groups lived on the peninsula for thousands of years prior to colonization during the Russian America era. The glacier -covered Kenai Mountains run along the southeast spine of the peninsula along

518-415: Is very little or no plant growth. The whole country is characterized by the abundance of high grass; otherwise it is a typical Hudsonian-Alpine region. Dall sheep , hoary marmot , American black bear , American marten , and long-tailed chickadee are noted. An endangered population of Beluga Whales are commonly seen traversing the waterway with rising and falling tides. On May 3, 2019, a Falcated Duck

555-456: Is very rugged. South Suicide Peak (Now known as South Yuyanq' Ch'ex) is the tallest mountain rising from the north side of Turnagain, and Mount Alpenglow the highest on the south side. Mountains rise precipitously on both sides of the arm and reach altitudes of 5,000–6,000 feet (1,500–1,800 m). Their tops are ragged and bare. The timber rarely reaches higher than 1,500–2,000 feet (460–610 m). The smaller valleys are narrow and steep, but

592-604: The Kasilof River , and the Anchor River . Kachemak Bay , a inlet off the larger Cook Inlet , extends into the peninsula's southwest end, much of which is part of Kachemak Bay State Park . It is home to both the Sargent Icefield and Harding Icefields and the numerous glaciers assosciated with them, including Tustumena Glacier , Exit Glacier , and McCarty Glacier . The peninsula includes several of

629-487: The quicksand -like mudflats that otherwise make up the beaches along Turnagain Arm. Turnagain Arm communities within the Municipality of Anchorage include Indian , Bird , and Girdwood , all along the north shore of the Arm. Portage , at the eastern tip or head of the Arm, is a former settlement destroyed in the 1964 Alaska earthquake . Beluga Point Site , also known as ANC-054, is an archaeological location on

666-497: The 1900 U.S. Census as an unincorporated village. It did not appear again on the census for a century until 2000 when it was made a census-designated place (CDP). As of the census of 2000, there were 18 people, 9 households, and 5 families residing in the CDP. The population density was 1.4 people per square mile (0.54 people/km ). There were 25 housing units at an average density of 1.9 per square mile (0.73/km ). The racial makeup of

703-437: The CDP was 88.89% White , and 11.11% from two or more races. There were 9 households, out of which 33.3% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 44.4% were married couples living together, 11.1% had a female householder with no husband present, and 44.4% were non-families. 44.4% of all households were made up of individuals, and 22.2% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size

740-706: The Turnagain Arm field. Glacier Creek enters Turnagain Arm from the north, 12 miles (19 km) from its eastern end. It is one of the larger tributaries of Turnagain Arm from the north and joins the Arm at a point 75 miles (121 km) from Seward by way of the Alaska Northern Railroad survey. The Dena'ina called Turnagain Arm Tutl'uh , meaning "back water". Turnagain Arm was named by William Bligh of HMS Bounty fame. Bligh served as Cook's Sailing Master on his third and final voyage,

777-538: The aim of which was discovery of the Northwest Passage . Upon reaching the head of Cook Inlet in 1778, Bligh was of the opinion that both Knik Arm and Turnagain Arm were the mouths of rivers and not the opening to the Northwest Passage. Under Cook's orders Bligh organized a party to travel up Knik Arm, which quickly returned to report Knik Arm indeed led only to a river. Afterwards a second party

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814-449: The arm about 20 miles (32 km) east of the main body of Cook Inlet, and with Sixmile Creek, 8 miles (13 km) farther east; with its various branches, it drains a large part of the northeastern portion of Kenai Peninsula. Resurrection Creek flows in a direction slightly east of north. The town of Hope is located near its mouth. Palmer Creek is its largest tributary. Bear Creek flows into Turnagain Arm 0.5 miles (0.80 km) east of

851-717: The coast of the Gulf of Alaska . Much of the range is within Kenai Fjords National Park . The northwest coast along the Cook Inlet is flatter, dotted with numerous small lakes. Several larger lakes extend through the interior of the peninsula, including Skilak Lake and Tustumena Lake . Rivers include the Kenai River , renowned for king salmon fishing, and its tributary, the Russian River ,

888-883: The contiguous highway system . Seward is the southern terminus of the Alaska Railroad . The Seward Highway connects Seward to Anchorage, while the Sterling Highway connects the the large population centers to the Seward Highway. The Kenai Spur Highway connects Soldotna, Kenai, Nikiski and Captain Cook State Recreation Area , Commercial airports with service to Anchorage are located in Kenai and Homer Smaller airports are located in Soldotna Seward and Seldovia The Alaska Marine Highway services Homer and Seldovia . Seward

925-651: The larger ones frequently show by their U-shaped cross section the former presence of glaciers. Glaciers may be still seen at a number of places. Chief among them are Portage Glacier , occupying the Portage Valley between the head of Turnagain Arm and Passage Canal , the two neighboring glaciers which form the headwaters of the Glacier River and Twentymile River , Explorer Glacier, and Skookum Glacier. Besides these, there are several smaller ones on tributaries of Glacier Creek . The Seward Highway follows

962-464: The mining camp at its mouth. The larger of the two forks, known as the East Fork, is itself formed by the confluence of a number of small streams. The more important of these are Gulch and Granite creeks on the north, and Lynx and Silvertip creeks on the south. The smaller fork, Canyon Creek , flows almost directly northward and, with its eastern tributary, Mills Creek , has been the chief producer of

999-529: The most populous towns in Southcentral Alaska, including Seward on the Gulf of Alaska Coast, Soldotna , Kenai , Sterling , and Cooper Landing along the Cook Inlet and Kenai River, and Homer , along Kachemak Bay, along with numerous smaller villages and settlements. Homer marks the terminus of the paved highway system of North America , while nearby Anchor Point is the most westerly point on

1036-468: The mouth of Resurrection Creek. It is nearly 6 miles (9.7 km) long, and follows a northwesterly course through a steep, narrow valley. Bear and Palmer creeks are the two producing streams of this part of the field, and both are connected with Hope by roads. The drainage area of Sixmile Creek is much larger than that of Resurrection Creek, and the stream is formed by the confluence of two large branches, which unite 10 miles (16 km) south of Sunrise ,

1073-471: The north shore of the Arm, while Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center is situated at the head of the Arm near the site of Portage. Major tributaries of Turnagain Arm include the Twentymile River , Portage River , and Placer River . Minor tributaries include Resurrection Creek , Bear Creek, Sixmile Creek , and Glacier Creek , with their branches. Resurrection Creek flows into the south side of

1110-431: The streams tributary to Turnagain Arm from the north, and on a few of these claims, notably those on lower Crow Creek, mining was carried out in subsequent years. The output of placer gold was derived from the Turnagain Arm slope of the mountains. Development work on gold quartz lodes was confined largely to the Turnagain Arm basin. The eastern portion of Kenai Peninsula and the region about the head of Turnagain Arm present

1147-417: The streams, and spruces ( Picea canadensis and Picea sitchensis ) and hemlocks ( Tsuga mertensiana ) are common on the slopes and slightly elevated flats. A third species of spruce ( Picea mariana ) is found in the small peat bogs , along with smaller Hudsonian plants. ( Ledum ), crowberry ( Empetrum ), and dwarf birch ( Betula glandulosa ) are in profusion. Of the larger trees, the hemlock is abundant, but it

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1184-476: The streams. Evidences of a former period of glacial activity are seen on all sides in broad-bottomed U-shaped valleys, polished rock surfaces, and transported boulders. The shores of Turnagain Arm afford frequent proof of ice action in glacial markings and striated pebbles. Hanging valleys are not uncommon. The east shore along the Kenai Peninsula, from the mouth of Turnagain Arm nearly to Kachemak Bay ,

1221-403: The valleys of Sixmile Creek , Resurrection Creek , and Kenai River . The flat-topped benches have an elevation of nearly 1,000 feet (300 m) above sea level around the lower end of Kenai Lake , and the same elevation was observed in the valleys of the streams mentioned. The bench gravels show a thickness of 100–200 feet (30–61 m) in the upper valleys, where they have been cut through by

1258-483: The west and by 3,001-foot (915 m) Bradley Peak to the east. Sunrise was established in 1895 and incorporated in 1896, and grew rapidly as a supply center for miners participating in the gold rush along Turnagain Arm in the late 1890s. It was briefly the largest city in the Alaska Territory . At its height in 1898, the community had a summertime population of 800, with several general stores, saloons, and

1295-407: Was 2.00 and the average family size was 2.80. In the CDP, the population was spread out, with 27.8% under the age of 18, 5.6% from 18 to 24, 16.7% from 25 to 44, 38.9% from 45 to 64, and 11.1% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 44 years. For every 100 females, there were 100.0 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 85.7 males. The median income for a household in

1332-540: Was dispatched up Turnagain Arm and it too returned to report only a river lay ahead. As a result of this frustration the second body of water was given the disingenuous name "Turn Again". Early maps label Turnagain Arm as the "Turnagain River". The mineral resources of the Turnagain-Knik region are notable for gold placers and the gold quartz lodes. From 1896 to 1898, a large number of placer claims were staked on

1369-437: Was spotted at Potter Marsh , a first for the area and the whole state of Alaska. The last sighting was on May 4, 2019 60°59′14″N 149°47′41″W  /  60.9872°N 149.7947°W  / 60.9872; -149.7947 Kenai Peninsula The Kenai Peninsula ( Dena'ina : Yaghenen ) is a large peninsula jutting from the coast of Southcentral Alaska . The name Kenai ( / ˈ k iː n aɪ / , KEE -ny )

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