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46-738: Each year in March, the Salii made a procession round the city, dancing and singing the Carmen Saliare . Ovid , who relates the story of Numa and the heavenly ancilia in his Fasti , found the hymn and the Salian rituals outdated and hard to understand. During the Principate , by decree of the Senate, Augustus 's name was inserted into the song. They ended the day by banqueting. "Table of

92-443: A folk art , using materials that were accessible to nonprofessionals. Examples include Hardanger embroidery from Norway; Merezhka from Ukraine ; Mountmellick embroidery from Ireland; Nakshi kantha from Bangladesh and West Bengal ; Achachi from Peru ; and Brazilian embroidery . Many techniques had a practical use such as Sashiko from Japan , which was used as a way to reinforce clothing. While historically viewed as

138-523: A coalescence of an initiation into adulthood and war, with a scapegoat ritual (see also pharmakos ) . Other 19th-century scholars have compared the rituals of the Salii with the Vedic myths of Indra and the Maruts . Because the earliest Roman calendar had begun with the month of March, Hermann Usener thought the ceremonies of the ancilia movere were a ritual expulsion of the old year, represented by

184-408: A fabric mesh to create a dense pattern that completely covers the foundation fabric. Examples of canvas work include bargello and Berlin wool work . Embroidery can also be classified by the similarity of its appearance. In drawn thread work and cutwork , the foundation fabric is deformed or cut away to create holes that are then embellished with embroidery, often with thread in the same color as

230-509: A few similar stitches in a variety of hues. In contrast, many forms of surface embroidery make use of a wide range of stitching patterns in a single piece of work. Training women in traditional embroidery skills in Inner Mongolia , was begun by Bai Jingying as a reaction to the financial pressures caused by the impact of climate change, including desertification , in the region. Embroidery can be classified according to what degree

276-514: A god of war and fertility while Mamurius Veturius would mean "Old Mars". Mars is himself a dancer, and the head of the Salian dancers, patrician young men whose parents were both living ( patrimi and matrimi ). Carmen Saliare The Carmen Saliare is a fragment of archaic Latin , which played a part in the rituals performed by the Salii (Salian priests , a.k.a. "leaping priests") of Ancient Rome . There are 35 extant fragments of

322-424: A pastime, activity, or hobby, intended just for women, embroidery has often been used as a form of biography. Women who were unable to access a formal education or, at times, writing implements, were often taught embroidery and utilized it as a means of documenting their lives by telling stories through their embroidery. In terms of documenting the histories of marginalized groups, especially women of color both within

368-433: A predetermined number of threads in the foundation fabric. Counted-thread embroidery is more easily worked on an even-weave foundation fabric such as embroidery canvas , aida cloth , or specially woven cotton and linen fabrics. Examples include cross-stitch and some forms of blackwork embroidery . While similar to counted thread in regards to technique, in canvas work or needlepoint , threads are stitched through

414-549: A quick rhythm . He also wrote that they would beat daggers on shields to create music. These shields were known as ancile . Other descriptions stated that used flutes to sing the songs. The Salii wore embroidered tunics under purple trabeae with bronze helmets and belts during their festivals. They also wore garlands of white ribbons, a conical cap known as an apex , and wheat sheaves . Some wore togae praetextae around their waists. Their rituals took place in March , during

460-428: A result of an increasing need for relaxation and digitally disconnecting practices. Modern hand embroidery, as opposed to cross-stitching , is characterized by a more "liberal" approach, where stitches are more freely combined in unconventional ways to create various textures and designs. Modern canvas work tends to follow symmetrical counted stitching patterns with designs emerging from the repetition of one or just

506-453: Is entertained by the Salii during a feast, who are commemorating the fame and feasts of Hercules . Ancient authors quoted by Maurus Servius Honoratus and Macrobius recorded that Salii had existed at Tibur , Tusculum and Veii even before their creation in Rome. The twelve Salii used song and dance as part of religious ritual . They were state sponsored and considered important for

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552-411: Is prone to breaking and is avoided. There has also been a development in free hand machine embroidery, new machines have been designed that allow for the user to create free-motion embroidery which has its place in textile arts, quilting, dressmaking, home furnishings and more. Users can use the embroidery software to digitize the digital embroidery designs. These digitized design are then transferred to

598-420: Is the art of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to stitch thread or yarn . Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as pearls , beads , quills , and sequins . In modern days, embroidery is usually seen on hats, clothing, blankets, and handbags. Embroidery is available in a wide variety of thread or yarn colour. It is often used to personalize gifts or clothing items. Some of

644-405: Is used to add logos and monograms to business shirts or jackets, gifts, and team apparel as well as to decorate household items for the bed and bath and other linens, draperies, and decorator fabrics that mimic the elaborate hand embroidery of the past. Machine embroidery is most typically done with rayon thread , although polyester thread can also be used. Cotton thread, on the other hand,

690-642: The Carmen Saliare , which can be read in Morel's FPL . The rituals revolved around Mars and Quirinus , and were performed in March and October. These involved processions in which they donned archaic armour and weapons, performed their sacred dance , and sang the Carmen Saliare . As a body they existed before the founding of the Roman Republic , tracing their origin back to the reign of Numa Pompilius . The Salian priests were chosen from

736-820: The Palatine Salii ( Salii Palatini ) to distinguish them from the priests of Quirinius. They are also known in English as the Salians or the Salian Priests. The Salii Collini were also known as the Agonales or Agonenses . According to legend, Numa Pompilius established the Salii Palatini, which honored the god Mars , while Tullus Hostilius established the Salii Collini which honored

782-479: The Patricians , and appeared to have been dedicated to the service of Quirinus . The Salii are sometimes credited with the opening and closing of the war cycle which would last from March to October. Saliī is the plural form of Salius , a noun and adjective that seem to derive from salīre ("to jump, to leap") and to be cognate with saltāre ("to dance, to jump"). They were sometimes known as

828-614: The Regia . It has been suggested that the passage in Festus describes a transvestite initiation. An earlier explanation held that the maidens played the role of absent warriors in some form of propitiation . The meaning of their being "hired" is unclear. There is no single overreaching description of the Salii's rituals throughout the month of March from any of the ancient authors, and facts have to be reconstructed from multiple mentions in diverse works; however, there are strong indications that

874-507: The Spring equinox . If a Salius was elected consul , flamen , pontifex , or augur , they would resign from their position in the Salii . Sextus Pompeius Festus makes a perplexing reference to "Salian virgins" ( Saliae virgines ). Wearing the paludamentum and pointed apex of the Salii, these maidens were employed to assist the College of Pontiffs in carrying out sacrifices in

920-509: The Warring States period (5th–3rd century BC). In a garment from Migration period Sweden, roughly 300–700 AD, the edges of bands of trimming are reinforced with running stitch, back stitch, stem stitch, tailor's buttonhole stitch, and Whip stitch, but it is uncertain whether this work simply reinforced the seams or should be interpreted as decorative embroidery. Depending on time, location and materials available, embroidery could be

966-527: The ancilia ," and the second as ancilia condere , "to store (or hide) the ancilia ." Dumezil views the two groups of Salii — one representing Mars and the other Quirinus — as a dialectic relationship, showing the interdependency of the military and economic functions in Roman society. Wissowa compares the Salii with the noble youth who dance the Lusus Troiae : thus, the ritual dance of the Salii would be

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1012-508: The 16th century, in the reign of the Mughal Emperor Akbar , his chronicler Abu al-Fazl ibn Mubarak wrote in the famous Ain-i-Akbari : His majesty [Akbar] pays much attention to various stuffs; hence Irani , Ottoman , and Mongolian articles of wear are in much abundance especially textiles embroidered in the patterns of Nakshi , Saadi , Chikhan , Ari , Zardozi , Wastli , Gota and Kohra . The imperial workshops in

1058-575: The Salii is a war dance or a sword dance , with their costumes clearly indicating their military origin. Georges Dumézil interpreted the rituals of the Salii as marking the opening and the closing of the yearly war season. The opening would coincide with the day of the Agonium Martiale on March 17, and the closing with the day of the Armilustrium on October 19. The first date was also referred to as ancilia movere , "to move

1104-476: The Salii" ( Saliaris cena ) became proverbial in Latin for a sumptuous feast. It is unclear whether the primary aim of the ritual was to protect Rome's army, although this is the traditional view. King Tullus Hostilius is said to have established another collegium of Salii in fulfillment of a vow which he made in the second war with Fidenae and Veii . These Salii Collini were also twelve in number, chosen from

1150-602: The United States and around the world, embroidery is a means of studying the everyday lives of those whose lives largely went unstudied throughout much of history. Since the late 2010s, there has been a growth in the popularity of embroidering by hand. As a result of visual social media such as Pinterest and Instagram , artists are able to share their work more extensively, which has inspired younger generations to pick up needle and threads. Contemporary embroidery artists believe hand embroidery has grown in popularity as

1196-630: The art of embroidery. Indeed, the remarkable stability of basic embroidery stitches has been noted: It is a striking fact that in the development of embroidery ... there are no changes of materials or techniques which can be felt or interpreted as advances from a primitive to a later, more refined stage. On the other hand, we often find in early works a technical accomplishment and high standard of craftsmanship rarely attained in later times. The art of embroidery has been found worldwide and several early examples have been found. Works in China have been dated to

1242-402: The basic techniques or stitches of the earliest embroidery are chain stitch , buttonhole or blanket stitch , running stitch , satin stitch , and cross stitch . Those stitches remain the fundamental techniques of hand embroidery today. The process used to tailor, patch, mend and reinforce cloth fostered the development of sewing techniques, and the decorative possibilities of sewing led to

1288-495: The design takes into account the nature of the base material and by the relationship of stitch placement to the fabric. The main categories are free or surface embroidery , counted-thread embroidery , and needlepoint or canvas work. In free or surface embroidery, designs are applied without regard to the weave of the underlying fabric. Examples include crewel and traditional Chinese and Japanese embroidery. Counted-thread embroidery patterns are created by making stitches over

1334-417: The domain of a few experts or a widespread, popular technique. This flexibility led to a variety of works, from the royal to the mundane. Examples of high status items include elaborately embroidered clothing, religious objects, and household items often were seen as a mark of wealth and status. In medieval England, Opus Anglicanum , a technique used by professional workshops and guilds in medieval England ,

1380-422: The early twentieth century and developed a machine embroidery industry there. Shiffli machines have continued to evolve and are still used for industrial scale embroidery. Contemporary embroidery is stitched with a computerized embroidery machine using patterns digitized with embroidery software . In machine embroidery , different types of "fills" add texture and design to the finished work. Machine embroidery

1426-406: The foundation fabric. When created with white thread on white linen or cotton, this work is collectively referred to as whitework . However, whitework can either be counted or free. Hardanger embroidery is a counted embroidery and the designs are often geometric. Conversely, styles such as Broderie anglaise are similar to free embroidery, with floral or abstract designs that are not dependent on

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1472-645: The god Quirinus . An origin among the Etruscans is attributed to a founding by Morrius , king of Veii . The Salii are also given an origin in connection with Dardanus and the Samothracian Di Penates , and the Salius who came to Italy with Evander and in the Aeneid competed in the funeral games of Anchises . Indeed in book VIII of The Aeneid , while in the land of King Evander Aeneas

1518-549: The interpretation osculo dolori ero "I shall be as a kiss to grief", though his emendations are now dismissed as "editorial fantasy". George Hempl restored it more carefully to coceulod orieso , attested in some manuscripts aside from the spacing, which is good archaic Latin for classical cucūlō oriēre "(thou shalt) come forth with the cuckoo ". A fragment preserved by Quintus Terentius Scaurus in his De orthographia (fragment 6 by Maurenbrecher's numbering): An excerpt of it: Embroidery Embroidery

1564-454: The maintenance of the Roman social order. Their dances were also used to tell religious or historical stories. The Salii honored the gods Jupiter , Janus , and Mars . This dance was referred to as the tripudium . Horace describes the Salii performing this dance by stamping their feet three times. Their dance was also associated with leaping and jumping. Seneca the Younger wrote that it

1610-531: The material and ensure even stitching tension that prevents pattern distortion. The development of machine embroidery and its mass production came about in stages during the Industrial Revolution . The first embroidery machine was the hand embroidery machine , invented in France in 1832 by Josué Heilmann. The next evolutionary step was the schiffli embroidery machine . The latter borrowed from

1656-445: The most economical of expensive yarns; couching is generally used for goldwork . Canvas work techniques, in which large amounts of yarn are buried on the back of the work, use more materials but provide a sturdier and more substantial finished textile. A needle is the main stitching tool in embroidery, and comes in various sizes and types. In both canvas work and surface embroidery an embroidery hoop or frame can be used to stretch

1702-557: The mysterious figure of Mamurius Veturius , to make way for the new god Mars, born on March 1. On the Ides of March , a man ritually named as Mamurius Veturius was beaten with long white sticks in the sacrum Mamurii ; in Usener's view, this was a form of scapegoating . Mamurius was the mythic blacksmith who forged eleven replicas of the original divine shield that had dropped from the sky. According to Usener and Ludwig Preller , Mars would be

1748-452: The procession may actually have lasted a full 24 days, from March 1st which opened the festival until March 24th, which closed it, with the procession moving from one station to another each day, and with revels being held each evening; a complete assessment can be found in Smith, Wayte, & Marindin (1890). Classical philologist Georg Wissowa maintained that the ritual of

1794-435: The rise of the merchant class and the wider availability of luxury materials, rich embroideries began to appear in a secular context. These embroideries took the form of items displayed in private homes of well-to-do citizens, as opposed to a church or royal setting. Even so, the embroideries themselves may still have had religious themes. Samplers employing fine silks were produced by the daughters of wealthy families. Embroidery

1840-516: The sewing machine and the Jacquard loom to fully automate its operation. The manufacture of machine-made embroideries in St. Gallen in eastern Switzerland flourished in the latter half of the 19th century. Both St. Gallen, Switzerland and Plauen, Germany were important centers for machine embroidery and embroidery machine development. Many Swiss and Germans immigrated to Hudson county, New Jersey in

1886-832: The sons of patrician families whose parents were still living. They were appointed for life, though they were allowed to resign from the Salian priesthood if they achieved a more prestigious priesthood or a major magistracy. In the Annales written by Roman historian Tacitus , it is revealed that several Romans proposed the name of Germanicus to be added to the Salian Song, as a memory of his virtue and goodwill. Two fragments which have been preserved by Marcus Terentius Varro in his De Lingua Latina , 7.26, 27 (fragment 2 and 1 by Maurenbrecher's numbering): The mysterious cozeulodorieso has attracted several proposals. Julius Pomponius Laetus proposed in his editio princeps

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1932-401: The towns of Lahore , Agra , Fatehpur and Ahmedabad turn out many masterpieces of workmanship in fabrics, and the figures and patterns, knots and variety of fashions which now prevail astonish even the most experienced travelers. Taste for fine material has since become general, and the drapery of embroidered fabrics used at feasts surpasses every description. Conversely, embroidery is also

1978-542: The weave of the fabric. The fabrics and yarns used in traditional embroidery vary from place to place. Wool , linen , and silk have been in use for thousands of years for both fabric and yarn . Today, embroidery thread is manufactured in cotton , rayon , and novelty yarns as well as in traditional wool, linen, and silk. Ribbon embroidery uses narrow ribbon in silk or silk/ organza blend ribbon, most commonly to create floral motifs. Surface embroidery techniques such as chain stitch and couching or laid-work are

2024-435: Was a popular dance that required professional training to perform. It is possible that the term tripudium referred to a variety of dances. Alongside dancing, the Salii would sing songs known as the Carmen Saliare . Varro claimed that the Salian priests did not understand the meanings of the lyrics they sang. It is possible they contained older spellings and archaic words. Plutarch describes them chanting and dancing with

2070-751: Was a skill marking a girl's path into womanhood as well as conveying rank and social standing. Embroidery was an important art and signified social status in the Medieval Islamic world as well. The 17th-century Turkish traveler Evliya Çelebi called it the "craft of the two hands". In cities such as Damascus , Cairo and Istanbul , embroidery was visible on handkerchiefs , uniforms, flags, calligraphy , shoes, robes , tunics, horse trappings, slippers, sheaths, pouches, covers, and even on leather belts . Craftsmen embroidered items with gold and silver thread. Embroidery cottage industries, some employing over 800 people, grew to supply these items. In

2116-505: Was used to embellish textiles used in church rituals. In 16th century England, some books, usually bibles or other religious texts, had embroidered bindings. The Bodleian Library in Oxford contains one presented to Queen Elizabeth I in 1583. It also owns a copy of The Epistles of Saint Paul, whose cover was reputedly embroidered by the Queen. In 18th-century England and its colonies, with

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