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58-695: Second in seniority of the orders of regular clerics (the Theatines being first), the Barnabites were founded in Milan, by Anthony Mary Zaccaria , Barthélemy Ferrari, and Jacopo Antonio Morigia . The region was then suffering severely from the wars between Charles V and Francis I, and Zaccaria saw the need for radical reform of the Church in Lombardy, afflicted by problems typical for that era: dioceses without

116-466: A bishop, clergy with inadequate theological training, a decrease in religious practice, and monasteries and convents in decline. It was approved by Pope Clement VII in the brief Vota per quae vos on 18 February 1533. Later approvals gave it the status of a Religious Order , but it is still normally referred to as a congregation . Both the date and the vocation place it among the Orders associated with

174-473: A long coat. In turn, the Old French word may come ultimately from Turkish kazak (nomad, adventurer – the source of the word Cossack ), an allusion to their typical riding coat, or from Persian کژاغند kazhāgand (padded garment) – کژ kazh (raw silk) + آغند āgand (stuffed). The name was originally specially applied to the dress worn by soldiers and horsemen, and later to

232-505: A pellegrina is attached or is not. Thus the 1969 instruction states that, for cardinals and bishops, "the elbow-length cape, trimmed in the same manner as this cassock , may be worn over it". Cassock , rather than simar , is the term that is usually applied to the dress of Popes and other Catholic ecclesiastics. The instruction also gives no support to Nainfa's claim that the cassock with shoulder cape should not be worn in church services, which moreover would be of difficult application, since

290-619: A philosopher, littérateur , and orator. One of his most celebrated works is his funeral oration on the death of Daniel O'Connell . The astronomer Giuseppe Piazzi (1746-1826), professor of mathematics and astronomy in Palermo, Sicily, discoverer of the first asteroid, Ceres, in 1801, became a Theatine at the age of 19. Soutane [REDACTED] = Day (before 6 p.m.) [REDACTED] = Evening (after 6 p.m.)     = Bow tie colour [REDACTED] = Ladies [REDACTED] = Gentlemen The cassock , also called soutane ,

348-603: A replica in black of his own white caped cassock. Since then, the wearing of the pellegrina with the cassock has been a sign of a Roman Catholic priest in England and Wales, Scotland, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand, although sometimes imitated by Anglican priests. In his 1909 book, Costume of Prelates of the Catholic Church , John Abel Felix Prosper Nainfa proposed the use of the English word " simar ", instead of

406-484: A single small stem-button sewn at centre front about 12–15 centimetres ( 4 + 1 ⁄ 2 –6 in) below the centre-front neck line which is used to secure the academic hood , worn for Choir Dress. The single-breasted cassock worn by Anglicans traditionally has thirty-nine buttons as signifying the Thirty-Nine Articles , or as some would prefer " Forty stripes save one " – the punishment Saint Paul

464-697: Is a Christian clerical clothing coat used by the clergy and male religious of the Oriental Orthodox Churches , Eastern Orthodox Church and the Catholic Church , in addition to some clergy in certain Protestant denominations such as Anglicans and Lutherans . "Ankle-length garment" is the literal meaning of the corresponding Latin term, vestis talaris . It is related to the habits traditionally worn by nuns , monks , and friars . The cassock derives historically from

522-577: Is a masterpiece of Carlo Maderno and contains several paintings by Domenichino . The Theatines still operate the church. In France, through the efforts of Cardinal Mazarin , they built the Church of St. Anne la Royale opposite the Louvre in 1644. In Spain, under Philip II , the Theatine Cardinal Paolo Burali d'Arezzo , filled various embassies at the command of the viceroy of Naples . In Portugal , John IV , in 1648, gave

580-779: Is an updated version dated 1983, which takes into account the changes from the Second Vatican Council . There is a female branch of Religious Sisters , the Angelic Sisters of St. Paul, found by Anthony Mary Zaccaria, and an organization for lay people, the Laity of St. Paul, originally called the Married of St. Paul and sometimes referred to in North America as the Oblates of St. Paul. As of July 24, 2012,

638-456: Is black except in tropical countries, where because of the heat it is white and usually without shoulder cape ( pellegrina ). Coloured piping and buttons are added in accordance with rank: black for priests, purple for chaplains of His Holiness ; amaranth red for bishops , protonotaries apostolic and Honorary Prelates ; and scarlet red for cardinals . The 1969 Instruction on the dress of prelates stated that for all of them, even cardinals,

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696-544: Is known as a pellegrina . It is distinct from the mozzetta, which is buttoned in front and is worn over a rochet . The general rule of the Roman Catholic Church is that the pellegrina may be worn with the cassock by cardinals and bishops. In 1850, the year in which he restored the Catholic hierarchy in England and Wales, Pope Pius IX was understood to grant to all priests there the privilege of wearing

754-538: Is typically worn a preaching gown or the academic gown of the minister. During the Edwardian and Victorian era, it was common to see a shortened, double-breasted black silk cassock worn under the gown. It generally reached to the knees and was tied with a simple cincture . However, with the liturgical movement of the 20th century, the classic cassock came back into fashion. Presbyterians in Canada tend to follow

812-462: Is used by bishops, protonotaries apostolic, honorary prelates, and chaplains of His Holiness, when wearing a cassock with coloured trim. A black watered-silk fascia is permitted for priests attached to the papal household , a purple watered-silk fascia for bishops attached to the papal household (for example, Apostolic Nuncios ), and a scarlet watered-silk fascia for cardinals. The Pope wears a white watered-silk fascia, sometimes with his coat of arms on

870-477: The Counter-Reformation . Zaccaria's holiness moved many to reform their lives but it also moved many to oppose him. Twice his community had to undergo an official religious investigation, and twice it was exonerated. The order was given the name of "Regular Clerics of St. Paul" (Clerici Regulares Sancti Pauli). In 1538 the grand old monastery of Saint Barnabas by the city wall of Milan was given to

928-709: The East Indies , (the history of which was written by the Theatine Bartolomeo Ferro - "Missioni Teatine nelle Indie Orientali" ), Arabia, and Armenia. In 1626 Theatines went to Persia . Theatine manuscripts dating from 1530 until the end of the 18th century show there were missions established in a number of other countries. By 1700 the Theatines numbered 1400. By the end of the eighteenth century, decline had set in, exacerbated by political upheavals. General suppression of religious orders affected

986-787: The Methodist Church of Great Britain also traditionally wear a double-breasted cassock (as in the evangelical Anglican tradition). In the Evangelical Lutheran Churches of Denmark , the Faroe Islands , Iceland , and the North German Hanseatic cities of Hamburg and Lübeck , clergy wear the cassock with the ruff as vestments . The Cassock is also worn occasionally in American Lutheran churches. In previous years,

1044-627: The Netherlands , Spain, and the United States of America , where they maintain a mission at Durango, Colorado . The Order has numbered among its members: It has also furnished one pope, Paul IV (Giovanni Pietro Carafa), 250 bishops , archbishops , and papal legates, and several cardinals . Among noted nineteenth-century Theatines was the Sicilian Father Gioacchino Ventura dei baroni di Raulica ,

1102-724: The Venerable Karl Schilling , the only post- Reformation Norwegian to be officially considered for sainthood, and the Italian physician and priest Vittorio De Marino . Vincenzo Sangermano was a Barnabite who was a missionary in Burma and wrote several books about the Burmese people . Several members of the Order became cardinals . The first was Giacomo Antonio Morigia , Archbishop of Florence (1683–1699), one of

1160-505: The laity to the practice of virtue . They founded oratories (among them the celebrated Divino Amore ) and hospitals, devoted themselves to preaching the Gospel , and reformed lax morals . They were exclusive, aristocratic, and formidably austere. They wore the simple black cassock of the local clergy and maintained a modest lifestyle. The prohibition on both owning property and soliciting alms tended to limit applicants from members of

1218-486: The tunic of classical antiquity that in ancient Rome was worn underneath the toga , and the chiton that was worn beneath the himation in ancient Greece . In religious services, it has traditionally been worn underneath vestments , such as the alb . In the West, the cassock is little used today except for religious services, save for traditionalist and those other Catholic clergy and religious who continue to wear

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1276-576: The 19th century. More recently the Archbishops have chosen to wear black, this can be seen in the ministries of Rowan Williams and Justin Welby . A comparatively recent custom – since the reign of Edward VII – is that scarlet cassocks are properly worn only by Chaplains to the King and by members of Royal foundations such as Westminster Abbey and some Cambridge college chapels. They are also worn by

1334-517: The Anglican churches, cassocks may be worn by others who are not ministers. Ordained elders and deacons, as they serve as worship leaders, readers, and administer communion may also wear cassocks which tend to be black. Those worn by choirs and other worship leaders are usually coloured (for instance, The Shadyside Presbyterian Church (U.S.A.) choir is dressed in red cassocks under white surplices). In Eastern Christianity there are two types of cassock:

1392-675: The Apostle says he received from the Jews. Cassocks are often worn without a cincture and some opt for a buckled belt. Black is the most common colour for priests ( presbyters ), readers , vergers, and server cassocks. Lighter colours, such as white are used in tropical countries and some cathedrals have colours specific for their location. Piping is also used in the Anglican church to indicate position held with red being used for Deans, Archdeacons and Cathedral Canons. Bishops and Archbishops often wear purple cassocks. This has been practise since

1450-655: The Brief Exponi Nobis . On 14 September, the feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross, Cajetan and his companions made solemn profession before the papal altar of St. Peter's Basilica in Rome, in the presence of Mgr. Giovanni Battista Bonziano, Bishop of Caserta , a special papal delegate. Carafa was chosen the first General. The chief object of the order was to recall the clergy to an edifying life and

1508-573: The Constitutions of the Order. The General Chapters of the Order were regularly held at Milan until the reign of Pope Alexander VII (1655–67), who ordered them to convene in Rome. Pope Innocent XI (1676–89), however, finally decreed that they should be held in Rome and Milan alternately. These assemblies of the Provincial Superiors were held every three years for the election of a new Superior General , whose term of office

1566-561: The Head Master and Master of the King's Scholars of Westminster School . Nonetheless, many cathedral canons wear full crimson cassocks rather than with mere piping, as do many servers guilds and choirs due to longstanding practice. Cassocks are sometimes also worn by readers , altar servers , and choir members, when they do this is the double-breasted style. Readers and altar servers usually wear black cassocks, but those worn by choirs are usually coloured. Ministers (presbyters) of

1624-609: The Inner Cassock and the Outer Cassock or Rason. Monastics always wear a black cassock. There is no rule about colouration for non-monastic clergy, but black is the most common. Blue or grey are also seen frequently, while white is sometimes worn for Pascha . In the Eastern Churches, cassocks are not dress for any lay ministry. Generally, one has to be blessed to wear a cassock usually in the case of exercising

1682-538: The Order make, in addition to the three standard religious vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience , a fourth vow never to strive for any office or position of dignity, or to accept such otherwise than under a command of the Holy See. The focus of the goals of the Barnabite Order, besides preaching in general, catechizing, hearing confessions , giving missions, ministrations in hospitals and prisons, and

1740-574: The Scottish church, they typically use the Anglican style of cassock. In addition, it is not uncommon to see full-length cassocks worn in the blue of the Flag of Scotland , which is also tied to the academic dress of the University of St Andrews . As is the custom within the Church of England, ministers of the Church of Scotland who are chaplains to the royal family also wear a scarlet cassock. Over this

1798-532: The Theatines a splendid house and college for the education of noble youth. In England, under Henry VIII , Thomas Goldwell , Bishop of St. Asaph , entered the order of Theatines. In Bavaria, the Theatine Church St. Kajetan was built from 1663 to 1690, founded by Elector Ferdinand Maria . The Theatines were the first to found papal missions in: Golconda (in present-day India), Ava (Burma), Peru, Mingrelia (Georgia), founded by Andrea Borromeo ,

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1856-537: The Theatines more significantly because the order historically acquired no possessions and so had no institutional infrastructure. Pope Pius X had a hand in attempts at revival, calling upon the services of Cardinal José de Calasanz Félix Santiago Vives y Tutó. The papal Motu Proprio Auspicato , of 15 December 1909, decreed the union of the Congregation of the Regular Theatine Clergy with

1914-450: The additional distinction of having both choir cassock sleeves and the fascia made of scarlet watered-silk. The cut of the choir cassock is still a Roman-cut or French-cut Roman cassock. In the past, a cardinal's cassock was made entirely of watered silk, with a train that could be fastened at the back of the cassock. This train was abolished by the motu proprio Valde solliciti of Pope Pius XII with effect from 1 January 1953. With

1972-440: The adjectival form of subtus (beneath). The cassock (or soutane) comes in a number of styles or cuts , though no particular symbolism attaches to these. A Roman cassock often has a series of buttons down the front. In some English-speaking countries these buttons may be merely ornamental, with a concealed fly-front buttoning, known as a Chesterfield front, used to fasten the garment. A French cassock also has buttons sewn to

2030-695: The aristocracy, and so they remained relatively few in number. In 1546 they were briefly joined with the Somaschi Fathers , but as the object of the respective orders differed, they separated in 1555. In 1527 their house in Rome was sacked by the army of Charles V , and the Roman community sought refuge in Venice. They founded many churches, among them the Sant'Andrea della Valle in Rome, a gift of Costanza Piccolomini D'Aragona, Duchess of Amalfi . This church

2088-429: The cassock as their standard attire. However, in many countries it was the normal everyday wear of the clergy until the 1960s, when it was largely replaced by clerical suits, distinguished from lay dress by being generally black and by a black shirt incorporating a clerical collar . In Japan, male gakuran school uniform were inspired by cassocks. The word cassock comes from Middle French casaque , meaning

2146-502: The cassock was worn in combination with a white surplice which almost entirely covered it. It is customary for a minority of clergy to wear it on special high holidays such as Good Friday and Ash Wednesday. Most commonly, Lutheran pastors wear an alb over a clerical shirt (with clergy collar). Vestments , most commonly a stole , are worn over the alb. In the Church of Scotland , and Presbyterian churches which trace their heritage back to

2204-426: The cassock with pellegrina is generally made as a single garment, with a non-detachable pellegrina. Nainfa wrote that at that time the garment with shoulder cape was in Italian called a zimarra , a term, however, that in that language is today used rather of a historical loose-fitting overgown, quite unlike the close-fitting cassock with pellegrina worn by Catholic clergy, and similar to the fur-lined Schaube that

2262-471: The congregation as their main seat, and thenceforth they were known by the popular name of Barnabites . After the death of Zaccaria in 1539, the congregation was favoured and protected by Archbishop Charles Borromeo of Milan and later by Francis de Sales because of their successful missionary work in Upper Italy. Charles Borromeo presided, in 1579, as Cardinal Protector, over the commission which wrote

2320-472: The custom of the Church of Scotland, whereas Presbyterians in the United States typically wear an American Geneva gown over a sleeveless cassock or a non-cuffed gown over an Anglican or Roman style cassock. The American Geneva gown is often supplied with a cuff sewn into the double-bell sleeve (this innovation is a remnant of the cassock sleeve that was formerly worn underneath). As is the practice in

2378-416: The dress for ordinary use may be a simple black cassock without coloured trim. A band cincture or sash, known also as a fascia , may be worn with the cassock. The Instruction on the dress of prelates specifies that the two ends that hang down by the side have silk fringes, abolishing the sash with tassels. A black faille fascia is worn by priests, deacons, and major seminarians, while a purple faille fascia

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2436-469: The education of youth, includes also a particular devotion to the thorough study and exposition of St. Paul's Epistles . Their habit is the black soutane which formed the usual garb of Milanese secular priests in the time of Borromeo. He himself was not a member but is venerated by the Barnabites as a secondary patron saint of their Order. The first missions undertaken by the Order were in Italy, France,

2494-462: The ends. In choir dress , chaplains of His Holiness wear their purple-trimmed black cassocks with a cotta , but bishops, protonotaries apostolic, and honorary prelates use (with a cotta or, in the case of bishops, a rochet and mozzetta ) cassocks that are fully purple (this purple corresponds more closely with a Roman purple and is approximated as fuchsia) with scarlet trim, while those of cardinals are fully scarlet with scarlet trim. Cardinals have

2552-760: The former Duchy of Savoy , Austria and Bohemia . In the 18th century, they started missions in China and Brazil. Today, they serve in 15 countries. Until 2021 they were active in Afghanistan, where they had run the Afghan Catholic Mission since 1933, interrupted only while the Taliban regime was in power. Three Barnabites are counted among the canonized saints : Anthony Maria Zaccaria , Alexander Sauli , and Francis Bianchi , while some others are being investigated for possible canonization, including

2610-624: The founders of the Barnabites, who was raised to the cardinalate on 12 December 1695 by Pope Innocent XII , though his appointment was kept secret ( in pectore reservatus ) until 19 December 1698. Hyacinthe Sigismond Gerdil , a Consultor of the Roman Inquisition, and former preceptor (supervising teacher), from 1758, of the Prince of Piedmont , afterwards King Charles Emmanuel IV , and then, in 1768, of Charles Emmanuel's sons,

2668-550: The long garment worn in civil life by both men and women. As an ecclesiastical term, the word cassock came into use somewhat late (as a translation of the old names of subtanea , vestis talaris , toga talaris , or tunica talaris ), being mentioned in Canon LXXIV (74) of the Anglican 1604 Canons ; and it is in this sense alone that it now survives. The word soutane is a French word, coming from Latin subtana ,

2726-497: The new Superior General is a Brazilian , the Very Rev. Francisco Chagas Santos da Silva. As indicated by the official name of the order, the work of the Barnabites is inspired by St. Paul the Apostle . In an address in 2000, to the institute's General Chapter, Pope John Paul II noted, "[I]n pointing out the ideal of religious and apostolic life to his spiritual sons, St Anthony Mary Zaccaria emphasized charity." The members of

2784-486: The pope the manto is red and the greca is white. The Anglican church uses single and double-breasted cassocks. For many this is to indicate tradition (single-breasted in the Anglo-Catholic tradition and double-breasted in the evangelical end of the church). The double-breasted cassock fastens at the shoulders on the opposing side of the breast and at the waist with one concealed button. The latter usually has

2842-531: The pursuit of evangelical perfection traditional among religious orders with apostolic service generally expected of diocesan clergy. It was Carafa who wrote the constitutions of the order. Cajetan consecrated his order to the Cross , which he adopted as its emblem, and the foundation took place on the feast of the Finding of the Holy Cross, 3 May 1524. It was approved on 24 June of that year, by Pope Clement VII in

2900-609: The same motu proprio , the Pope ordered that the violet cassock (then used in penitential periods and in mourning) be made of wool, not silk, and in February 1965, under Pope Paul VI, a circular of the Sacred Ceremonial Congregation abolished the use of watered silk also for the red cassock. An elbow-length shoulder cape, open in front, is sometimes worn with the cassock, either fixed to it or detachable. It

2958-427: The sleeves after the manner of a suit , and a slightly broader skirt. An Ambrosian cassock has a series of only five buttons under the neck, with a sash on the waist. A Jesuit cassock, in lieu of buttons, has a fly fastened with hooks at the collar and is bound at the waist with a cincture knotted on the right side. The ordinary Roman cassock worn by Roman Catholic clerics (as distinct from that worn as choir dress)

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3016-454: The word "cassock", for the garment with shoulder cape, which he treated as distinct from the cassock proper. Others too have made the same distinction between the "simar" (with pellegrina) and the "cassock" (without), but many scholars disagree with Nainfa's distinction. More particularly, documents of the Holy See make no such distinction, using the term cassock or vestis talaris whether

3074-610: The youthful Spanish Congregation of the Holy Family founded at Barcelona by Josep Manyanet y Vives , but the two groups were separated again in 1916. In 1910, the Theatines were amalgamated with the Congregation of Saint Alphonsus Liguori , which had been founded in Mallorca in 1867. As of 2020, the Theatines had 161 members, of whom 124 are priests. The Theatines are present in Argentina , Brazil , Colombia , Mexico ,

3132-556: Was founded by Saint Cajetan (Gaetano dei Conti di Thiene), Paolo Consiglieri, Bonifacio da Colle, and Giovanni Pietro Carafa (afterwards Pope Paul IV ). Carafa was Bishop of Chieti ; Chieti (Theate) is a city of the Abruzzi in Central Italy, from which the congregation adopted its specific name, to distinguish it from other congregations ( Barnabites , Somaschi , Caracciolini , etc.) modelled upon it. The Theatines combined

3190-430: Was limited to that period, only one re-election being allowed to each incumbent of the office. The Society started pastoral activity among the working classes and in monasteries. In the early 17th century, the Barnabites gradually entered the field of education – work which was to remain a mark of their apostolate. They entered France under Henry IV in 1608, and Austria under Ferdinand II in 1626. The present Constitution

3248-701: Was named a cardinal in secret ( in pectore ) on 23 June 1777, and announced publicly on 15 December 1777. Luigi Bilio (1826–1884), a Consultor of the Congregation of the Inquisition and collaborator in the production of the " Syllabus of Errors " (1864), was appointed a cardinal on 25 June 1866 by Pope Pius IX , and named Secretary of the Congregation of the Inquisition by Pope Leo XIII in 1883. Others were: Francesco Fontana , appointed in 1816 by Pope Pius VII ; Luigi Lambruschini , appointed in 1831 by Pope Gregory XVI ; Antonio Cadolini , appointed in 1843 by Gregory XVI; and Giuseppe Maria Graniello , appointed in 1893 by Pope Leo XIII . John Bellarini (1552–1630), who

3306-507: Was the Visitor of the Order, and twice held the office of Assistant Superior General, was also a theologian who wrote a number of works including an influential commentary on the Council of Trent . Theatines The Theatines , officially named the Congregation of Clerics Regular ( Latin : Ordo Clericorum Regularium ; abbreviated CR ), is a Catholic order of clerics regular of pontifical right for men founded by Archbishop Gian Pietro Carafa on 14 September 1524. The order

3364-448: Was used in northern Europe. Images of the historical zimarra as worn by women can be seen at "Dressing the Italian Way" and "The Italian Showcase". In cold weather, the manto, an ankle-length cape with or without shoulder cape, or the greca , also known as the douillette, an ankle-length double-breasted overcoat, is traditionally worn over the cassock. For bishops and priests both the manto and greca are solid black in colour, while for

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