Jute ( / dʒ u t / JOOT ) is a long, rough, shiny bast fibre that can be spun into coarse, strong threads. It is produced from flowering plants in the genus Corchorus , of the mallow family Malvaceae . The primary source of the fiber is Corchorus olitorius , but such fiber is considered inferior to that derived from Corchorus capsularis .
90-519: The Barrow Jute Works was a jute and flax mill located in Barrow-in-Furness , Lancashire (now Cumbria ), England during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The mill was built for the Barrow and Calcutta Jute Company which was founded by James Ramsden in 1870 in an attempt to diversify Barrow's economy which was heavily focused on iron and steel production. The Jute Works itself
180-613: A totem for Ayivu, one of the Lugbara clans . In the Philippines , especially in Ilocano -dominated areas, this vegetable, which is locally known as saluyot , can be mixed with bitter gourd , bamboo shoots , loofah , or a combination of these ingredients, which have a slimy and slippery texture. Vietnamese cuisine also use edible jute known as rau đay . It is usually used in canh cooked with crab and loofah. In Haiti,
270-594: A tufting surface, while secondary CBC is bonded onto the primary backing for an overlay. Jute packaging is sometimes used as an environmentally friendly substitute for plastic . Other jute consumer products include floor coverings, high performance technical textiles , geotextiles , and composites. Jute has been used as a home textile due to its anti- static and color- and light-fast properties, as well as its strength, durability, UV protection, sound and heat insulation, and low thermal conductivity . Corchous olitorius leaves are used to make mulukhiya , which
360-455: A commercial household industry in the historical region of Macedonia has been found at the Olynthus site. When the city was destroyed by Philip II in 348 BCE, artifacts were preserved in the houses. Loomweights were found in many houses, enough to produce cloth to meet the needs of the household, but some of the houses contained more loomweights, enough for commercial production, and one of
450-404: A conventional loom, continuous weft thread is carried on a pirn , in a shuttle that passes through the shed. A handloom weaver could propel the shuttle by throwing it from side to side with the aid of a picking stick. The "picking" on a power loom is done by rapidly hitting the shuttle from each side using an overpick or underpick mechanism controlled by cams 80–250 times a minute. When a pirn
540-409: A dish called "Lalo" is made with jute leaves and other ingredients. One version of Lalo includes lalo with crab and meat (such as pork or beef) served on a bed of rice. Fabrics made of jute fibers are carbon neutral and biodegradable, which make jute a candidate material for high performance technical textiles. As global concern over forest destruction increases, jute may begin to replace wood as
630-414: A dobby mechanism, where the healds are raised according to pegs inserted into a revolving drum. Where a complex design is required, the healds are raised by harness cords attached to a Jacquard machine. Every time the harness (the heddles) moves up or down, an opening ( shed ) is made between the threads of warp, through which the pick is inserted. Traditionally the weft thread is inserted by a shuttle. On
720-595: A period of relative peace; Europe became overpopulated. Poor weather led to a series of poor harvests and starvation. There was great loss of life in the Hundred Years War . Then in 1346, Europe was struck with the Black Death and the population was reduced by up to a half. Arable land was labour-intensive and sufficient workers no longer could be found. Land prices dropped, and land was sold and put to sheep pasture. Traders from Florence and Bruges bought
810-631: A piece of cloth woven from hemp was found in burial F. 7121 at the Çatalhöyük site, suggested to be from around 7000 BCE Further finds come from the Neolithic civilisation preserved in the pile dwellings in Switzerland. Another extant fragment from the Neolithic was found in Fayum , at a site dated to about 5000 BCE. This fragment is woven at about 12 threads by 9 threads per centimetre in
900-957: A plain weave. Flax was the predominant fibre in Egypt at this time (3600 BCE) and had continued popularity in the Nile Valley , though wool became the primary fibre used in other cultures around 2000 BCE. The oldest-known weavings in North America come from the Windover Archaeological Site in Florida . Dating from 4900 to 6500 BCE and made from plant fibres, the Windover hunter-gatherers produced "finely crafted" twined and plain weave textiles. Eighty-seven pieces of fabric were found associated with 37 burials. Researchers have identified seven different weaves in
990-448: A primary pulp ingredient. Weaving Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth . Other methods are knitting , crocheting , felting , and braiding or plaiting . The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft , woof, or filling. The method in which these threads are interwoven affects
SECTION 10
#17327809401221080-504: A process in which jute stems are bundled together and immersed in slow running water. There are two types of retting: stem and ribbon. After the retting process, stripping begins. In the stripping process, workers scrape off non-fibrous matter, then dig in and grab the fibers from within the jute stem. Jute is a rain-fed crop with little need for fertilizer or pesticides , in contrast to cotton 's heavy requirements. Production in India
1170-419: A repetition of these three actions, also called the primary motions of the loom . The warp is divided into two overlapping groups, or lines (most often adjacent threads belonging to the opposite group) that run in two planes, one above another, so the shuttle can be passed between them in a straight motion. Then, the upper group is lowered by the loom mechanism, and the lower group is raised (shedding), allowing
1260-454: A result, many people wove cloth from locally produced fibres. The colonists also used wool, cotton and flax (linen) for weaving, though hemp could be made into serviceable canvas and heavy cloth. They could get one cotton crop each year; until the invention of the cotton gin it was a labour-intensive process to separate the seeds from the fibres. Functional tape, bands, straps, and fringe were woven on box and paddle looms. A plain weave
1350-528: A sign of the enlargement of cotton thread and textile production. Due to its low cost and portability because of its small size, it was favored among rural weaving communities in countries of Southeast Asia. Weaved textiles in Southeast Asia are mostly made with looms. The foot brace loom is the earliest loom introduced to Southeast Asia from China, having its first appearance in Vietnam. Although, it
1440-514: A weaving machine that would function similar to recently developed cotton-spinning mills in 1784, drawing scorn from critics who said the weaving process was too nuanced to automate. He built a factory at Doncaster and obtained a series of patents between 1785 and 1792. In 1788, his brother Major John Cartwight built Revolution Mill at Retford (named for the centenary of the Glorious Revolution ). In 1791, he licensed his loom to
1530-533: A wide range of items including telegraph cables, ropes and artificial hair, later including the production of Kalemeit for carpets, rugs and window drapery. The quality of produce was acknowledged in 1878 at the Exposition Universelle in Paris , France where the Barrow and Calcutta Jute Company was awarded a gold medal in the field. Two fires damaged the works during its history - 1879 and 1892,
1620-463: A wooden draw-loom or pattern loom was used. This loom would require two or three weavers and was usually operated by men. There were also other smaller looms, such as the waist loom, that could be operated by a single woman and were usually used domestically. Sericulture and silk weaving spread to Korea by 200 BCE, to Khotan by 50 CE, and to Japan by about 300 CE. The pit-treadle loom may have originated in India though most authorities establish
1710-718: Is raw jute . The fibers are off-white to brown and range from 1–4 meters (3.3–13.1 ft) long. In Bangladesh, jute is called the " golden fiber " for its color and monetary value. The bulk of the jute trade is centered in South Asia , with India and Bangladesh as the primary producers. The majority of jute is used for durable and sustainable packaging , such as burlap sacks . Its production and usage declined as disposable plastic packaging became common, but this trend has begun to reverse as merchants and even nations phase out or ban single-use plastics . The jute plant needs plain alluvial soil and standing water . During
1800-407: Is sized in a starch mixture for smoother running. The loom warped (loomed or dressed) by passing the sized warp threads through two or more heddles attached to harnesses. The power weavers loom is warped by separate workers. Most looms used for industrial purposes have a machine that ties new warps threads to the waste of previously used warps threads, while still on the loom, then an operator rolls
1890-416: Is a variety thought to be native to South Asia . It is grown for both fiber and culinary purposes. People use the leaves as an ingredient in a mucilaginous potherb called " molokhiya " ( ملوخية , of uncertain etymology), which is mainly used in some Arabic countries such as Egypt , Jordan , and Syria as a soup-based dish , sometimes with meat over rice or lentils . The King James translation of
SECTION 20
#17327809401221980-568: Is concentrated mostly in West Bengal . India is the world's largest producer of jute, but imported approximately 162,000 tonnes of raw fiber and 175,000 tonnes of jute products in 2011. India, Pakistan , and China import significant quantities of jute fiber and products from Bangladesh, as do the United Kingdom , Japan , United States , France , Spain , Ivory Coast , Germany and Brazil . Jute and jute products formerly held
2070-459: Is cotton that is interwoven with threads made of different materials. Brunei is famous for its Jong Sarat, a cloth usually used in traditional weddings, uses silver and gold threads interwoven usually with cotton threads. Similarly, Indonesia has the Songket, also used in traditional weddings, which also utilizes gold and silver wrapped thread to create elaborate designs on their weaved textiles. On
2160-437: Is depleted, it is ejected from the shuttle and replaced with the next pirn held in a battery attached to the loom. Multiple shuttle boxes allow more than one shuttle to be used. Each can carry a different colour which allows banding across the loom. The rapier-type weaving machines do not have shuttles, they propel cut lengths of weft by means of small grippers or rapiers that pick up the filling thread and carry it halfway across
2250-526: Is reflected in the wool towns of eastern England; Norwich , Bury St Edmunds and Lavenham being good examples. Wool was a political issue. The supply of thread has always limited the output of a weaver. About that time, the spindle method of spinning was replaced by the great wheel and soon after the treadle-driven spinning wheel . The loom remained the same but with the increased volume of thread it could be operated continuously. The 14th century saw considerable flux in population. The 13th century had been
2340-924: Is sometimes considered the Egyptian national dish, and is also consumed in Cyprus and other Middle Eastern countries. These leaves are an ingredient in stews, typically cooked with lamb or chicken. In India ( West Bengal ) and Bangladesh , in the Bengali cuisine , the fresh leaves are stir fried and eaten as path saak bhaja (পাঠ শাক ভাজা) along with a mustard sauce called kasundi (কাসুন্দি). The leaves are also eaten by making pakoras (পাঠ পাতার বড়া) with rice flour or Gram flour batter. In Nigeria , leaves of Corchorus olitorius are prepared in sticky soup called ewedu together with ingredients such as sweet potato , dried small fish, or shrimp . The leaves are rubbed until foamy or sticky before they are added to
2430-401: Is used in the manufacture of fabrics, such as Hessian cloth, sacking, scrim , carpet backing cloth (CBC), and canvas . Hessian is lighter than sacking, and it is used for bags, wrappers, wall-coverings, upholstery , and home furnishings. Sacking, which is a fabric made of heavy jute fibers, has its use in the name. CBC made of jute comes in two types: primary and secondary. Primary CBC provides
2520-472: The The principal parts of a loom are the frame, the warp-beam or weavers beam, the cloth-roll (apron bar), the heddles, and their mounting, the reed . The warp-beam is a wooden or metal cylinder on the back of the loom on which the warp is delivered. The threads of the warp extend in parallel order from the warp-beam to the front of the loom where they are attached to the cloth-roll. Each thread or group of threads of
2610-665: The Book of Job (chapter 30, verse 4), in the Hebrew Bible , mistranslates the word מלוח maluaḥ , which means Atriplex as "mallow", which in turn has led some to identify this jute species as that what was meant by the translators, and led it to be called ' Jew's mallow ' in English. It is high in protein , vitamin C , beta-carotene , calcium , and iron . Bangladesh and other countries in Southeast Asia , and
2700-540: The Inca Empire of the Andes, both men and women produced textiles. Women mostly did their weaving using backstrap looms to make small pieces of cloth and vertical frame and single- heddle looms for larger pieces. Men used upright looms. The Inca elite valued cumbi , which was a fine tapestry-woven textile produced on upright looms. The elite often offered cumbi as gifts of reciprocity to lords (other elite) in
2790-515: The Normans , they took the technology to Northern Italy and then the rest of Europe. Silk fabric production was reintroduced towards the end of this period and the more sophisticated silk weaving techniques were applied to the other staples. The weaver worked at home and marketed his cloth at fairs . Warp-weighted looms were commonplace in Europe before the introduction of horizontal looms in
Barrow Jute Works - Misplaced Pages Continue
2880-523: The South Pacific mainly use jute for its fiber. Tossa jute fiber is softer, silkier, and stronger than white jute. This variety shows good sustainability in the Ganges Delta climate. Along with white jute, tossa jute has also been cultivated in the soil of Bengal where has been known as paat since the start of the 19th century. Coremantel, Bangladesh, is the largest global producer of
2970-488: The monsoon season , the monsoon climate offers a warm and wet environment which is suitable for growing jute. Temperatures from 20 to 40 °C (68 to 104 °F) and relative humidity of 70%–80% are favorable for successful cultivation. Jute requires 5–8 cm (2.0–3.1 in) of rainfall weekly, and more during the sowing time. Soft water is necessary for jute production. Historical documents (including Ain-e-Akbari by Abu'l-Fazl ibn Mubarak in 1590) state that
3060-404: The warp which runs longitudinally and the weft (older woof ) that crosses it. ( Weft is an Old English word meaning "that which is woven"; compare leave and left . ) One warp thread is called an end and one weft thread is called a pick . The warp threads are held taut and in parallel to each other, typically in a loom. There are many types of looms. Weaving can be summarized as
3150-430: The 10th and 11th centuries. Weaving became an urban craft and to regulate their trade, craftsmen applied to establish a guild . These initially were merchant guilds , but developed into separate trade guilds for each skill. The cloth merchant who was a member of a city's weavers guild was allowed to sell cloth; he acted as a middleman between the tradesmen weavers and the purchaser. The trade guilds controlled quality and
3240-513: The 1980s. The southernmost part of the site fronting Abbey Road contains the former John Whinnerah Institute and Lakeland Laundry building. 54°06′47″N 3°13′59″W / 54.113°N 3.233°W / 54.113; -3.233 Jute Jute fibers, composed primarily of cellulose and lignin , are collected from bast (the phloem of the plant, sometimes called the "skin") of plants like kenaf , industrial hemp , flax ( linen ), and ramie . The industrial term for jute fiber
3330-497: The Centre for Chemical Biology, University of Science Malaysia and University of Hawaii , to research different fibers and hybrid fibers of jute. The draft genome of jute ( Corchorus olitorius ) was completed. Jutes are relatively cheap and versatile fiber and have a wide variety of uses in cordage and cloth . It is commonly used to make burlap sacks . The jute plant also has some culinary uses, which are generally focused on
3420-552: The Empire. In regions under direct control of the Inca, special artisans produced cumbi for the elite. Women who created cumbi in these regions were called acllas or mamaconas and men were called cumbicamayos . Andean textile weavings were of practical, symbolic, religious, and ceremonial importance and used as currency, tribute, and as a determinant of social class and rank. Sixteenth-century Spanish colonists were impressed by both
3510-503: The Grimshaw brothers of Manchester , but their Knott Mill burnt down the following year (possibly a case of arson). Edmund Cartwight was granted a reward of £10,000 by Parliament for his efforts in 1809. However, success in power-weaving also required improvements by others, including H. Horrocks of Stockport . Only during the two decades after about 1805, did power-weaving take hold. At that time there were 250,000 hand weavers in
3600-584: The UK. Textile manufacture was one of the leading sectors in the British Industrial Revolution , but weaving was a comparatively late sector to be mechanised. The loom became semi-automatic in 1842 with Kenworthy and Bulloughs Lancashire Loom . The various innovations took weaving from a home-based artisan activity (labour-intensive and man-powered) to steam driven factories process. A large metal manufacturing industry grew to produce
3690-425: The boiling water. Usually this task was done by girls aged eight to twelve, while the more complex jobs were given to older women. They would then create a silk thread, which could vary in thickness and strength from the unwound cocoons. After the reeling of the silk, the silk would be dyed before the weaving process began. There were many different looms and tools for weaving. For high quality and intricate designs,
Barrow Jute Works - Misplaced Pages Continue
3780-410: The characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom , a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band that meets this definition of cloth (warp threads with a weft thread winding between) can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving , back strap loom , or other techniques that can be done without looms. The way
3870-632: The discovery of mauveine in 1856, and its popularity in fashion. Researchers continued to explore the chemical potential of coal tar waste from the growing number of gas works in Britain and Europe, creating an entirely new sector in the chemical industry . The invention in France of the Jacquard loom , patented in 1804, enabled complicated patterned cloths to be woven, by using punched cards to determine which threads of coloured yarn should appear on
3960-471: The eighteenth and nineteenth centuries ("jute weaver" was a recognized trade occupation in the 1901 UK census ), but this trade largely ceased by about 1970, being substituted for by synthetic fibres . In the 21st century, jute has become a large export again, mainly in Bangladesh. The jute fiber comes from the stem and ribbon (outer skin) of the jute plant. The fibers are first extracted by retting ,
4050-407: The fabric. One kind of fabric had 26 strands per inch (10 strands per centimetre). There were also weaves using two-strand and three-strand wefts . A round bag made from twine was found, as well as matting . The yarn was probably made from palm leaves. Cabbage palm , saw palmetto and scrub palmetto are all common in the area, and would have been so 8,000 years ago. Evidence of weaving as
4140-502: The fell progressed. Weaving became simpler when the warp was sized . Around the 4th century BCE , the cultivation of cotton and the knowledge of its spinning and weaving in Meroë reached a high level. Export of textiles was one of the main sources of wealth for Kush . Aksumite King Ezana boasted in his inscription that he destroyed large cotton plantations in Meroë during his conquest of
4230-656: The find, the weavers of the Upper Palaeolithic were manufacturing a variety of cordage types, produced plaited basketry and sophisticated twined and plain woven cloth. The artifacts include imprints in clay and burned remnants of cloth. The oldest known textiles found in the Americas are remnants of six finely woven textiles and cordage found in Guitarrero Cave , Peru . The weavings, made from plant fibres, are dated between 10,100 and 9080 BCE. In 2013
4320-461: The household income while staying at home. Women would usually weave simpler designs within the household while men would be in charge of the weaving of more intricate and complex pieces of clothing. The process of sericulture and weaving emphasized the idea that men and women should work together instead of women being subordinate to men. Weaving became an integral part of Chinese women's social identity. Several rituals and myths were associated with
4410-464: The houses was adjacent to the agora and contained three shops where many coins were found. It is probable that such homes were engaged in commercial textile manufacture. Weaving was known in all the great civilisations, but no clear line of causality has been established. Early looms required two people to create the shed and one person to pass through the filling. Early looms wove a fixed length of cloth, but later ones allowed warp to be wound out as
4500-634: The invention in China. Pedals were added to operate heddles . By the Middle Ages such devices also appeared in Persia , Sudan, Egypt and possibly the Arabian Peninsula, where "the operator sat with his feet in a pit below a fairly low-slung loom". In 700 CE, horizontal looms and vertical looms could be found in many parts of Asia, Africa and Europe. In Africa, the rich dressed in cotton while
4590-614: The latter occasion destroying half of the mill that was never rebuilt. Competition from the Indian jute trade as well as the large jute works in Dundee led to the mill's ultimate demise. Barrow Jute Works' iconic chimney was demolished in 1930, followed by the offices in 1948. The site is now occupied by Hindpool Retail Park having also previously contained the Barrow Corporation Bus Depot up until its demolition in
SECTION 50
#17327809401224680-538: The leaves. Due to its durability and biodegradability, jute matting is used as a temporary solution to prevent flood erosion. Researchers have also investigated the possibility of using jute and glucose to build aeroplane panels. Individual jute fibers can range from very fine to very coarse, and the varied fibers are suited for a variety of uses. The coarser fibers, which are called jute butts , are used alone or combined with other fibers to make many products: Finer jute fibers can be processed for use in: Jute
4770-442: The loom where another rapier picks it up and pulls it the rest of the way. Some carry the filling yarns across the loom at rates in excess of 2,000 metres per minute. Manufacturers such as Picanol have reduced the mechanical adjustments to a minimum, and control all the functions through a computer with a graphical user interface . Other types use compressed air to insert the pick. They are all fast, versatile and quiet. The warp
4860-572: The looms, firms such as Howard & Bullough of Accrington , and Tweedales and Smalley and Platt Brothers . Most power weaving took place in weaving sheds, in small towns circling Greater Manchester away from the cotton spinning area. The earlier combination mills where spinning and weaving took place in adjacent buildings became rarer. Wool and worsted weaving took place in West Yorkshire and particular Bradford , here there were large factories such as Lister's or Drummond's, where all
4950-438: The old and new threads back on the warp beam . The harnesses are controlled by cams, dobbies or a Jacquard head. The raising and lowering sequence of warp threads in various sequences gives rise to many possible weave structures: Both warp and weft can be visible in the final product. By spacing the warp more closely, it can completely cover the weft that binds it, giving a warp faced textile such as rep weave. Conversely, if
5040-611: The other hand, Cambodia has the Ikat, which utilizes the method of dyeing thunks of thread tied with fiber to create patterns while weaving. In addition to using threads, weavers of Myanmar, Thailand, and Vietnam combine silk and other fibers with cotton for weaving. While in Laos, natural materials are used, like roots, tree bark, leaves, flowers, and seeds, but for dyeing the textile that has been already weaved. These countries in Southeast Asia have more weaving traditions but these techniques are
5130-424: The peasant class. Silk weaving became a specialized job requiring specific technology and equipment that was completed domestically within households. Although most of the silk weaving was done within the confines of the home and family, there were some specialized workshops that hired skilled silk weavers as well. These workshops took care of the weaving process, although the raising of the silkworms and reeling of
5220-447: The poor villagers of India used to wear clothing made of jute. The weavers used simple hand- spinning wheels and hand looms , which they also used to spin cotton yarns . History also suggests that Indians, especially Bengalis , used ropes and twines made of white jute from ancient times for household and other uses. Jute is highly functional for carrying grains or other agricultural products. Tossa jute ( Corchorus olitorius )
5310-1009: The poorer wore wool. By the 12th century it had come to Europe either from the Byzantium or Moorish Spain where the mechanism was raised higher above the ground on a more substantial frame. In the Philippines , numerous pre-colonial weaving traditions exist among different ethnic groups . They used various plant fibers, mainly abacá or banana , but also including tree cotton , buri palm (locally known as buntal ) and other palms, various grasses (like amumuting and tikog ), and barkcloth . The oldest evidence of weaving traditions are Neolithic stone tools used for preparing barkcloth found in archeological sites in Sagung Cave of southern Palawan and Arku Cave of Peñablanca, Cagayan . The latter has been dated to around 1255–605 BCE. Other countries in Southeast Asia have their own extensive history of weaving traditions. Weaving
5400-433: The popular ones. To create threads of cotton for weaving, spindle whorls were commonly used in Southeast Asia. It is made from either clay, stone or wood and has a variety of appearances regarding its shape and size. Spindle whorls were said to emerge in Southeast Asia along with expansion of rice agriculture from Yangtse, China. Additionally, its increasing appearance in certain regions of Southeast Asia back then may be also
5490-645: The power loom led to disquiet and industrial unrest. Well known protests movements such as the Luddites and the Chartists had handloom weavers amongst their leaders. In the early 19th-century power weaving became viable. Richard Guest in 1823 made a comparison of the productivity of power and handloom weavers: A very good Hand Weaver, a man twenty-five or thirty years of age, will weave two pieces of nine-eighths shirting per week, each twenty-four yards long, and containing one hundred and five shoots of weft in an inch,
SECTION 60
#17327809401225580-558: The process of weaving. There was thus a shortage of thread or a surplus of weaving capacity. The opening of the Bridgewater Canal in June 1761 allowed cotton to be brought into Manchester, an area rich in fast flowing streams that could be used to power machinery. Spinning was the first to be mechanised ( spinning jenny , spinning mule ), and this led to limitless thread for the weaver. Edmund Cartwright first proposed building
5670-467: The processes took place. Both men and women with weaving skills emigrated, and took the knowledge to their new homes in New England, to places like Pawtucket and Lowell . Woven ' grey cloth ' was then sent to the finishers where it was bleached, dyed and printed. Natural dyes were originally used, with synthetic dyes coming in the second half of the 19th century. A demand for new dyes followed
5760-452: The promotion of silk weaving, especially as a symbol of female power. Weaving contributed to the balance between men and women's economic contributions and had many economic benefits. There were many paths into the occupation of weaver. Women usually married into the occupation, belonged to a family of weavers and or lived in a location that had ample weather conditions that allowed for the process of silk weaving. Weavers usually belonged to
5850-511: The quality and quantity of textiles produced by the Inca Empire. Some of the techniques and designs are still in use in the 21st century. Whereas European cloth-making generally created ornamentation through "suprastructural" means—by adding embroidery, ribbons, brocade, dyeing, and other elements onto the finished woven textile—pre-Columbian Andean weavers created elaborate cloth by focusing on "structural" designs involving manipulation of
5940-490: The region. The Indigenous people of the Americas wove textiles of cotton throughout tropical and subtropical America and in the South American Andes of wool from camelids , primarily domesticated llamas and alpacas . Cotton and the camelids were both domesticated by about 4,000 BCE. American weavers are "credited with independently inventing nearly every non-mechanized technique known today." In
6030-410: The shuttle to pass in the opposite direction, also in a straight motion. Repeating these actions forms a fabric mesh but without beating-up, the final distance between the adjacent wefts would be irregular and far too large. The secondary motions of the loom are the: The tertiary motions of the loom are the stop motions: to stop the loom in the event of a thread break. The two main stop motions are
6120-404: The silk remained work for peasant families. The silk that was woven in workshops rather than homes were of higher quality, since the workshop could afford to hire the best weavers. These weavers were usually men who operated more complicated looms, such as the wooden draw-loom. This created a competitive market of silk weavers. The quality and ease of the weaving process depended on the silk that
6210-509: The soup. Among the Yoruba people of Nigeria, the leaves are called Ewedu , and in the Hausa -speaking northern Nigeria , the leaves are called turgunuwa or lallo . The cook shreds the jute leaves adds them to the soup, which generally also contains meat or fish, onions, pepper, and other spices. The Lugbara of Northwestern Uganda also eat jute leaves in a soup called pala bi . Jute is also
6300-413: The threads by leaning backwards and forward. The body tension loom was developed from the foot-brace loom to eventually accommodate weaving of larger and wider cloth types. The predominant fibre in Europe during the medieval period was wool , followed by linen and nettlecloth for the lower classes. Cotton was introduced to Sicily and Spain in the 9th century. When Sicily was captured by
6390-469: The time of 1685 challenged the English weavers of cotton, woollen and worsted cloth, who subsequently learned the Huguenots' superior techniques. Colonial America relied heavily on Great Britain for manufactured goods of all kinds. British policy was to encourage the production of raw materials in colonies and discourage manufacturing. The Wool Act 1699 restricted the export of colonial wool. As
6480-552: The top position among Bangladesh's most exported goods, although now they stand second after ready-made apparel . Annually, Bangladesh produces 7 to 8 million bales of raw jute, out of which 0.6 to 0.8 million bales are exported to international markets. China, India, and Pakistan are the primary importers of Bangladeshi raw jute. In 2002, Bangladesh commissioned a consortium of researchers from University of Dhaka , Bangladesh Jute Research Institute (BJRI) and private software firm DataSoft Systems Bangladesh Ltd., in collaboration with
6570-529: The tossa jute variety. In India, West Bengal is the largest producer of jute. Jute has been used for making textiles in the Indus valley civilization since the 3rd millennium BC. For centuries, jute has been a part of the culture of Bangladesh and some parts of West Bengal and Assam . The British started trading in jute during the seventeenth century. During the reign of the British Empire , jute
6660-402: The training needed before an artisan could call himself a weaver. By the 13th century, an organisational change took place, and a system of putting out was introduced. The cloth merchant purchased the wool and provided it to the weaver, who sold his produce back to the merchant. The merchant controlled the rates of pay and economically dominated the cloth industry. The merchants' prosperity
6750-465: The trenches of World War I , and to the American South for bagging cotton. It was used in multiple industries, including the fishing , construction , art, and arms industries. Due to its coarse and tough texture, jute could initially only be processed by hand, until someone in Dundee discovered that treating it with whale oil made it machine processable. The industry boomed throughout
6840-405: The uplands weavers worked from home on a putting-out system . The wooden looms of that time might be broad or narrow; broad looms were those too wide for the weaver to pass the shuttle through the shed, so that the weaver needed an expensive assistant (often an apprentice ). This ceased to be necessary after John Kay invented the flying shuttle in 1733. The shuttle and the picking stick sped up
6930-460: The upper side of the cloth. The jacquard allowed individual control of each warp thread, row by row without repeating, so very complex patterns were suddenly feasible. Samples exist showing calligraphy, and woven copies of engravings. Jacquards could be attached to handlooms or powerlooms. A distinction can be made between the role and lifestyle and status of a handloom weaver, and that of the power loom weaver and craft weaver. The perceived threat of
7020-434: The warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the weave. The majority of woven products are created with one of three basic weaves: plain weave , satin weave , or twill weave . Woven cloth can be plain or classic (in one colour or a simple pattern), or can be woven in decorative or artistic design. In general, weaving involves using a loom to interlace two sets of threads at right angles to each other:
7110-462: The warp and weft of the fabric itself. Andeans used "tapestry techniques; double-, triple- and quadruple-cloth techniques; gauze weaves; warp-patterned weaves; discontinuous warp or scaffold weaves; and plain weaves" among many other techniques, in addition to the suprastructural techniques listed above. The weaving of silk from silkworm cocoons has been known in China since about 3500 BCE. Silk that
7200-545: The warp is spread out, the weft can slide down and completely cover the warp, giving a weft faced textile, such as a tapestry or a Kilim rug. There are a variety of loom styles for hand weaving and tapestry. There are some indications that weaving was already known in the Paleolithic Era, as early as 27,000 years ago. An indistinct textile impression has been found at the Dolní Věstonice site. According to
7290-401: The warp passes through an opening (eye) in a heddle. The warp threads are separated by the heddles into two or more groups, each controlled and automatically drawn up and down by the motion of the heddles. In the case of small patterns the movement of the heddles is controlled by "cams" which move up the heddles by means of a frame called a harness; in larger patterns the heddles are controlled by
7380-538: The wool, then sheep-owning landlords started to weave wool outside the jurisdiction of the city and trade guilds. The weavers started by working in their own homes then production was moved into purpose-built buildings. The working hours and the amount of work were regulated. The putting-out system had been replaced by a factory system . The migration of the Huguenot Weavers , Calvinists fleeing from religious persecution in mainland Europe, to Britain around
7470-604: Was also used in the military . British jute barons grew rich by processing jute and selling manufactured products made from it. Dundee Jute Barons and the British East India Company set up many jute mills in Bengal, and by 1895 jute industries in Bengal overtook the Scottish jute trade. Many Scots emigrated to Bengal to set up jute factories. More than a billion jute sandbags were exported from Bengal to
7560-515: Was designed by architects Paley and Austin and occupied over 12-acres with a 580 feet (177 m) facade on Hindpool Road and 360 feet (110 m) along Abbey Road . The mill was served by its own railway station on a branch of the Furness Railway which connected it to the town's docks, steelworks and cornmill. The mill's all female workforce peaked at 2,000, many of whom were Irish immigrants. The jute fabrics produced were used for
7650-416: Was historically used in traditional textile machinery because jute fibers contain cellulose (vegetable fiber) and lignin (wood fiber). Later , several industries, such as the automotive , pulp and paper , furniture, and bedding industries, started to use jute and its allied fibers with their non-woven and composite technology to manufacture nonwoven fabric , technical textiles , and composites. Jute
7740-412: Was intricately woven and dyed, showing a well developed craft, has been found in a Chinese tomb dating back to 2700 BCE. Silk weaving in China was an intricate process that was very involved. Men and women, usually from the same family, had their own roles in the weaving process. The actual work of weaving was done by both men and women. Women were often weavers since it was a way they could contribute to
7830-457: Was introduced to Southeast Asia at the same time rice agriculture was introduced from China. As it was introduced alongside rice farming, weaving is more popular in communities where rice is being farmed as compared to communities that rely on hunting, gathering, and animal farming. Each country has its own distinctive weaving traditions or has absorbed weaving traditions from their neighboring countries. The most common material used for weaving
7920-410: Was only used in certain areas of Vietnam, Laos, Indonesia, and Cambodia. Another loom that is widely used across Southeast Asia is the ground level body tension loom, also known as the belt loom, as a part of it needs to be attached to a belt-like strap on the weaver’s waist to control and hold the tension of the warped threads. It is usually operated at the ground level and the weaver is able to control
8010-476: Was preferred as the added skill and time required to make more complex weaves kept them from common use. Sometimes designs were woven into the fabric but most were added after weaving using wood block prints or embroidery. Before the Industrial Revolution , weaving was a manual craft and wool was the principal staple. In the great wool districts a form of factory system had been introduced but in
8100-428: Was produced by the silk worms. The easiest silk to work with came from breeds of silk worms that spun their cocoons so that it could be unwound in one long strand. The reeling, or unwinding of silk worm cocoons is started by placing the cocoons in boiling water in order to break apart the silk filaments as well as kill the silk worm pupae . Women would then find the end of the strands of silk by sticking their hand into
#121878