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Gulmit ( Wakhi / Urdu : گلمت ), also known as Gul-e-Gulmit , in upper Hunza Gilgit Baltistan , Pakistan . Gulmit is a centuries-old historic town, with mountains, peaks and glaciers . It is a tourist spot and has many historic places, hotels, and shops as well as a museum.

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54-881: Before 1974, Hunza was a princely state , and Gulmit was the summer capital of the state. After the abolition of the state it became the tehsil's seat of government. The oldest intact house in Gulmit is more than six centuries old. Most people in Gojal Valley have Central Asian ancestry. The people speak Wakhi language and belong to the Shia Imami Ismaili sect of Islam . There are many forts and fortresses in Gojal valley, such as Qalanderchi fort in Misghar valley and Rashit fort in Chipursan valley , but Ondra fort

108-717: A jagir ( land grant ) in Yarkand and paid him a subsidy. In 1860, the Mir paid tribute to the Dogras after their conquest of Gilgit, and Hunza became a tributary to both Kashmir and China. The last fully independent ruler, Mir Safdar Khan, who ruled from 1886, escaped to China after an invasion by the British. In the late 19th century Hunza became embroiled in the Great Game , the rivalry between Britain and Russia for control of

162-584: A bearing on the territorial extent of Kanjut as well as the rest of the princely state of Jammu and Kashmir at the time of her accession "in its entirety to the new Dominion of India" on 26 October and Section (4) of the Constitution of Jammu and Kashmir which pertains to the territorial extent of the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir also unequivocally states that "The territory of the State shall comprise all

216-573: A community-based organization, has a building with a hostel facility next to the health center of Aga Khan Health Services. Ondra poygah is a staircase the community has built staircase to the top of Ondra hill. Poygah is "staircase" in Wakhi. It is composed of 1,600+ stairs and is the longest staircase in Pakistan. At the top of the hill is the historic fort Ondra Fort. The community worked on this staircase for 2–3 months, from December to February. At

270-423: A council of Wazirs or ministers . Details of early rulers are uncertain, with the first definite dates from 1750 onwards. Mir Ghazanfar Ali Khan The Hunza valley is situated at an elevation of 2,438 metres (7,999 feet). The former capital Baltit has an elevation of 2477 metres (8129 feet). Both Baltit and an earlier fort, Altit Fort , have been extensively restored and are major tourist attractions in

324-568: A known presence to the south of the line of outposts in the twelve years immediately following their return. Ney Elias, who had been Joint Commissioner in Ladakh for several years, noted on 21 September 1889 that he had met the Chinese in 1879 and 1880 when he visited Kashgar. "They told me that they considered their line of 'chatze', or posts, as their frontier – viz., Kugiar, Kilian, Sanju, Kiria, etc.- and that they had no concern with what lay beyond

378-521: A strikingly large and steep Northeast Face. Climbing began in the Batura Muztagh later than in other parts of the Karakoram . Shispare was the first major peak in the range to be successfully climbed, in 1974, by the "Polish-German Academic Expedition" under the leadership of Janusz Kurczab. The ascent took 35 days, and during preparations for a second group to try for the summit, one member of

432-535: A trophy of a Khirghiz head to the Chinese with a message that Hunza territory extended as far as Dafdar". The Kanjutis were already in effective possession of the Raskam and no question had been raised about it. The Mir's claims went a good deal beyond a mere right of cultivation. He "asserts that forts were built by the Hunza people without any objection or interference from the Chinese at Dafdar, Qurghan, Ujadhbhai, Azar on

486-474: A visit to collect tax from Yishkook in Chipursan valley, the two stopped in Gulmit and liked it. They decided to live in Gulmit. After the death of Hazur Jamshid, Su Malik, the elder son, rushed to Gilgit to sit on his father's throne. He became the new ruler of Gilgit (1556-1578). According to Muhammad Zia, celebrated genealogy-keeper (zon) of Gulmit, Mir Malik also eventually left for Hunza. Taking advantage of

540-1809: Is Burushaski , while Wakhi and Shina languages are spoken in Upper Hunza and Lower Hunza respectively. Urdu is also understood in Hunza. 36°19′59″N 74°39′58″E  /  36.333°N 74.666°E  / 36.333; 74.666 Shispare Legend: 1: K2 ,  2: Gasherbrum I, K5 ,  3: Broad Peak ,  4: Gasherbrum II, K4 ,  5: Gasherbrum III, K3a ,  6: Gasherbrum IV, K3 ,  7: Distaghil Sar ,  8: Kunyang Chhish ,  9: Masherbrum, K1 ,  10: Batura Sar, Batura I ,  11: Rakaposhi ,  12: Batura II ,  13: Kanjut Sar ,  14: Saltoro Kangri, K10 ,  15: Batura III ,  16: Saser Kangri I, K22 ,  17: Chogolisa ,  18: Shispare ,  19: Trivor Sar ,  20: Skyang Kangri ,  21: Mamostong Kangri, K35 ,  22: Saser Kangri II ,  23: Saser Kangri III ,  24: Pumari Chhish ,  25: Passu Sar ,  26: Yukshin Gardan Sar ,  27: Teram Kangri I ,  28: Malubiting ,  29: K12 ,  30: Sia Kangri ,  31: Momhil Sar ,  32: Skil Brum ,  33: Haramosh Peak ,  34: Ghent Kangri ,  35: Ultar Sar ,  36: Rimo massif ,  37: Sherpi Kangri ,  38: Yazghil Dome South ,  39: Baltoro Kangri ,  40: Crown Peak ,  41: Baintha Brakk ,  42: Yutmaru Sar ,  43: K6 ,  44: Muztagh Tower ,  45: Diran ,  46: Apsarasas Kangri I ,  47: Rimo III ,  48: Gasherbrum V Shispare ( Urdu : شیسپیئر )

594-601: Is one of the high mountain peaks of the Batura Muztagh , the westernmost subrange of the Karakoram range in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan . Alternate forms of the name of this peak include Shispare Sar , Shisparé Sari "Fiak Ting" فیاک ٹنگ or Tegh Sar تیغ سر (which means Sharp Head in the local Wakhi Language). Shispare lies east of the Batura Wall, which is the highest part of

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648-503: Is the most prominent. This fort perches on Ondra hill, which overlooks Gulmit and Ghulkin villages. The fort is believed to have been built by Qutlug Baig in the 16th century. He was the first Wakhi ruler to establish rule in Gulmit, threatening the Mir of Hunza . Before him, Gulmit was under the control of Hazur Jamshid (1550-1556), the ruler of Gilgit. His sons Su Malik and Mir Malik were deputed to collect taxes from Gojal. Once, returning from

702-473: The Batura Muztagh in Pakistan . Notable neighbouring peaks include Pasu Sar to the northwest, Bojohagur Duanasir , Ultar , Hunza Peak and Ladyfinger Peak , which comprise the most southeasterly of the major groups of the Batura Muztagh. The Hunza River curves around the southeastern, eastern, and northeastern sides of the Batura Muztagh, and Shispare towers above the western bank of the river. In turn,

756-688: The Hunza Valley lies in the Hunza District of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan . Shispare is notable for its tremendous rise above local terrain. For example, the nearby town of Karimabad, in the Hunza Valley, has an elevation of 2,060 m (6,759 ft), making for 5,550 m (18,210 ft) of relief, in only 13 km (8 mi) horizontal distance. Being near the end of the Batura Muztagh, it commands large drops in three directions (north, east, and south). In addition, Shispare has

810-775: The Yarkand River and at three or four other places in Raskam." McMahon was able roughly to define the territorial limits of Kanjut. "The boundaries of Taghdumbash, Khunjerab , and Raskam, as claimed by the Kanjuts, are the following: the northern watershed of the Taghdumbash Pamir from the Wakhjir Pass through the Baiyik peak to Dafdar, thence across the river to the Zankan nullah ; thence through Mazar and over

864-543: The Arghil pass". He said it was an area of about 3,000 acres (12 km ). The Chinese completed the reconquest of Xinjiang in 1878. Before they lost southern parts of the province to Yakub Beg in 1863, their practical authority, as Ney Elias and Younghusband consistently maintained, had never extended south of their outposts at Sanju and Kilian along the northern foothills of the Kun Lun range. Nor did they establish

918-525: The British India starting in 1892 and continuing until August 1947. For a brief period of three months, it remained unaligned after gaining independence, and then from November 1947 until 1974, it retained its status as a princely state within Pakistan. The territory of Hunza now constitutes the northernmost part of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. The princely state bordered the Gilgit Agency to

972-610: The Karakoram and Kunlun Mountains , including areas like Xaidulla , where certain nomadic Kirghiz groups resided. These raids sometimes resulted in the Kirghiz being taken as slaves and subsequently sold to the Chinese authorities. From 1847, the Mir of Hunza gave nominal allegiance to China. Mir Ghazanfur Khan helped China in the fight against the Uyghur separatist Afaqi Khoja revolts in Yarkand , after which China granted Hunza

1026-555: The Mir-ship of Hunza as the eldest son of Mir Ghazan Khan I. However, the British installed his younger brother Muhammad Nazim Khan as Mir in September 1892. Hunza became a princely state in a subsidiary alliance with British India , a status it retained until 1947. The Kuomintang Republic of China government engaged in secret negotiations with the Mir of Hunza over restoring the state's previous relationship with China, amidst

1080-524: The Raskam, Hunza valley and Taghdumbash) are integral parts of Jammu and Kashmir. Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru had also made a similar statement that "Jammu and Kashmir's Northern frontiers, as you are aware, run in common with those of three countries, Afghanistan, the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics and China". These statements of the Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir as well as Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru also have

1134-549: The absence of Su Malik and Mir Malik, Qutlug Baig with the help of locals captured Gulmit and the surrounding villages. Qutlug Baig belonged to the Charshambi Kator lineage of the Wakhis of Gulmit. The territory of Qutlug Baig started from Khyber village and ended at Shishkat. To secure his territory from invaders, he built two gates, one at Khyber and the other at Shishkat. The gates were closed at night and opened during

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1188-517: The annual precipitation averages 113 millimetres or 4.4 inches. November is the driest month with 2 millimetres or 0.079 inches of rainfall, while May, the wettest month, has an average precipitation of 24 millimetres or 0.94 inches. July is the warmest month of the year with an average temperature of 21.8 °C or 71.2 °F. The coldest month January has an average temperature of −5.5 °C or 22.1 °F. There are five Jamaat-khanas or religious community centres in Gulmit, one in every ward of

1242-406: The army of Qutlug to keep an eye on the enemy advancing from the north, while the southern quarters were built to keep check on the enemy coming from the south, particularly the army of the Mir of Hunza. The fortification walls have embrasure and merlons. Only the northern and southern fortification walls have been provided embrasure. All the ramparts of the fort are still in a good condition. However,

1296-480: The boundary claimed by China. From there the line ran "along the northern watershed of the Raskam valley to Dafdar in the Taghdumbash Pamir, to the north of the mills at that place, and thence to the Baiyik peak. Deasy also came upon clear evidence of what could only have been Kanjuti occupation. South of Azgar "many ruins of houses, old irrigation channels and fields now no longer tilled, testify to Raskam having formerly been inhabited and cultivated". Anyone familiar with

1350-616: The care with which the Kanjuts cultivate every available strip of land in Hunza would have no hesitation in regarding this as proof of long standing Kanjuti occupation. The remains could not have been attributed to the Kirghiz; they were unfamiliar with the state of art. "Seven locations in the Raskam were involved. Azgar and Ursur on the right bank, and five others on the left, that is on the Mustagh-Karakoram side-Kukbash, Kirajilga, Ophrang, Uroklok, and Oitughrak, extending from Sarakamish, north of Kunjerab pass to Bazar Dara, north of

1404-448: The cliff, with stones balanced on top. They were also constantly exposed to regular damage from weather and falling rocks. These were the much feared "hanging passageways" of the early Chinese histories that terrified all, including several famous Chinese Buddhist monks. Most of the people of Hunza are Ismaili Muslims . The official language of the state was Persian until 1947, when it was replaced by Urdu . The common language of Hunza

1458-509: The day. In wartime, these gates remained closed, keeping enemies away from his dominion. The remains of both gates and fortification walls can still be seen at Khyber as well as in Shishkat. To rein in the advance of enemies from north and south, Quitlug Baig built Ondra fort. To the north lay the State of Hunza, and to the South the power of Kirghiz invaders who used to attack Gulmit to control

1512-516: The eastern and western fortification walls are in a crumbling condition. To secure his territory from invaders, he built two gates which were closed at night and opened during the day The Ondra fort reflects the power of the Wakhi ruler Qutlug who was never defeated by the Mirs of Hunza. He was known for his gallantry and swordsmanship in the battlefield. Mirs of Hunza were scared by the rising power of Qutlug. They never dared to cross his territory. Qutlug

1566-479: The entire Gojal Valley but Gulmit, being the headquarters, hosts their offices. Hunza (princely state) Hunza ( Persian : هنزه , Urdu : ہنزہ ), also known as Kanjut ( Persian : کانجوت ; Urdu : کنجوت ), was a princely state in the Gilgit Baltistan region of Pakistan. Initially, it functioned as a principality and subsequently became a princely state under a subsidiary alliance with

1620-589: The expedition (Heinz Borchers) was killed in an avalanche . The first ascent route followed the Passu Glacier to the East Ridge, between the Passu Glacier. (Note: this ridge goes southeast from the summit, turns northeast, and then turns roughly east, so it is called the "southeast ridge" and the "northeast ridge" in different sources.) Difficulties included a long ice ridge, and the access to

1674-467: The mountains" i.e. the Kun Lun range in northern Kashmir. In March 1899 the British proposed, in a Note from Sir Claude MacDonald to China, a new boundary between China and British India. The Note proposed that China should relinquish its claims to suzerainty over Hunza, and in return Hunza should relinquish its claims to most of the Taghdumbash and Raskam districts. The Chinese did not respond to

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1728-430: The new Dominion of India" on 26 October 1947. Further, this fact is confirmed and reiterated from the correspondence of the Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir dated 26 October 1947 with Lord Mountbatten , Governor General of India which states that the state of Jammu and Kashmir has a common boundary with the "Soviet Republic", and the said statement also determines the fact that inter alia Gilgit and Kanjut (which includes

1782-533: The north and the Mir claimed those areas as part of Hunza's territories. Those areas included the Taghdumbash Pamir and the Raskam Valley. According to Kanjuti traditions, as related by McMahon, the Mir's eighth ancestor, Shah Salim Khan , pursued nomadic Khirghiz thieves to Tashkurghan and defeated them. "To celebrate this victory, Shah Salim Khan erected a stone cairn at Dafdar and sent

1836-708: The northern approaches to India. The British suspected Russian involvement "with the Rulers of the petty States on the northern boundary of Kashmir"; In 1888, the Russian captain Bronislav Grombchevsky visited Hunza, and the following year the British captain Francis Younghusband visited Hunza to express British displeasure at Kanjuti raids in the Raskam . Younghusband formed a low opinion of

1890-454: The note. Until 1937 the inhabitants of the Taghdumbash Pamir paid tribute to the Mir of Hunza, who exercised control over the pastures, Although never ruled directly by neighbouring Jammu and Kashmir , Hunza was a vassal of Jammu and Kashmir from the time of Maharaja Ranbir Singh of Jammu and Kashmir in 1860. The Mirs of Hunza sent an annual tribute to China and the Mirs of Nagar to Maharaja Kashmir. Durbar until 1947, and along with

1944-543: The partitioning of British India, with the Hunza state independent from India and Pakistan. The Kuomintang also plotted to expand its influence into Kashmir, taking advantage of the weakness of the newly independent India. However, due to the war of 1947 in Kashmir, the Mir of Hunza changed his mind and acceded to Pakistan, after a coup against India in Gilgit. Historically the people of Hunza cultivated and grazed areas to

1998-458: The pastures for their livestock. The fort's ramparts ranges from 6 to 13 feet above the ground. There were many living quarters inside the fort. One can still find them at two places, on the southern side and the other on the northern side. These living quarters were separated by a central wall of the fort that runs east-west. The central rampart is higher than the southern and northern fortification walls. The northern quarters were constructed for

2052-507: The peak. They reached Base Camp on June 18, and Masui, Kokubu, and Ozawa reached the summit on July 20. They followed the same route as the first ascent party and climbed in a similar style, with a similar amount of fixed rope. In 2017, an alpen group, configured Kazuya Hiraide and Kenrou Nakazima achieved to the peak for northeast route that unprecedented,and they won Piolets d'Or prize. The Himalayan Index lists no other ascents or attempts of this peak. The first (and second) ascent route

2106-772: The range to Urok, a point on the Yarkand river between Sibjaida and Itakturuk. Thence it runs along the northern watershed of the Raskam valley to the junction of the Bazar Dara River and the Yarkand River . From thence southwards over the mountains to the Mustagh River leaving the Aghil Dewan or Aghil Pass within Hunza limits." In 1898 Captain H. P. P. Deasy substantially corroborated McMahon's information. Deasy resigned his commission to devote himself to trans-Himalayan exploration. An item of special interest

2160-438: The region. For many centuries, Hunza has provided the quickest access to Swat and Gandhara for a person travelling on foot. The route was impassable to baggage animals; only human porters could get through, and then only with permission from the locals. Hunza was easily defended as the paths were often less than half a metre (about 18") wide. The high mountain paths often crossed bare cliff faces on logs wedged into cracks in

2214-663: The ridge required 1500m of fixed rope . The next attempt was in 1989 by members of the Ryukoku University Alpine Club in Japan, led by Masato Okamoto. The group was on the mountain for almost two months, but was not able to summit; their high point was around 7,200 m (23,620 ft). In 1994, a group from the Komono Alpine Club in Japan , led by Yukiteru Masui, achieved the second ascent of

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2268-418: The ruler of Nagar were considered to be among the most loyal vassals of the Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir. According to Emma Nicholson , "All the evidence points to the fact that Gilgit and Baltistan region were constituent parts of Jammu and Kashmir by 1877". They were under the sovereignty of the Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir and remained in this princely domain until the date of accession "in its entirety to

2322-491: The ruler, Safdar Ali, describing him as "a cur at heart and unworthy of ruling so fine a race as the people of Hunza". In 1891, the British mounted the Hunza-Nagar Campaign and gained control of Hunza and the neighbouring valley of Nagar . The Mir, Safdar Khan, fled to China with his two brothers, Prince Muhammad Nafis Khan and Prince Muhammad Nazim Khan. Prince Muhammad Nafis Khan was the primary claimant of

2376-449: The south, the former princely state of Nagar to the east, Xinjiang , China, to the northeast and Afghanistan to the northwest. The state's capital was Baltit (also known as Karimabad ). The princely state of Hunza is now the Hunza District in the Gilgit Baltistan region of Pakistan . Hunza was an independent principality for centuries. It was ruled by the Mirs of Hunza , who took

2430-460: The territories which on the fifteenth day of August, 1947, were under the sovereignty or suzerainty of the Ruler of the State". On 3 November, 1947, the ruler, Mohammad Jamal Khan sent a telegram to Mohammad Ali Jinnah acceding his state to Pakistan. It stated: "I declare with pleasure on behalf of myself and my State accession to Pakistan." The hereditary rulers, the " Mirs " were assisted by

2484-630: The title of Thum . The Hunzai people maintained their relationship with China, recognizing China as their suzerain from around 1760 or 1761. The rulers of Hunza claimed a lineage, tracing their descent back to Alexander the Great. In their view, both they and the Emperor of China held the most pivotal leadership roles in the world. Historically, there were instances when the Kanjutis, the residents of Hunza, conducted raids on mountainous regions within

2538-477: The top is a path to Odver then to Kumaris. Gulmit is surrounded by mountains on all sides. To the extreme north is Tupopodon, while on the south is Ghawush. Standing tall in the east is Mount Pulpul, and in the west is Gulmit Tower, right above the Shutubar Glacier. Gulmit Tower, a vertical monolith, is yet to be climbed. There are as many as 26 organizations working in and for the village out of which

2592-531: The top three in the below list are registered with Government. Most of these organizations work under the umbrella of Gulmit Organization for Local Development (GOLD). Some of the larger organizations, member-wise and activities-wise are the following: Apart from these social organizations there are other Ismaili organizations, working under the banner of the Shia Immami Ismaila Council for Gulmit. These Ismaili organizations cater services to

2646-531: The valleys of Gojal. Many storytellers still amuse both audience and themselves by narrating the stories of their ruler Qutlug Baig. This fort is still a destination for domestic and international tourists. From Ondra fort one has a panoramic view of Gulmit. From the south one can see Gulmit and as far as Shishkat villages and from the north one can view the Ghulkin village. From the north one can enjoy seeing Gulmit tower. Ghulkin glacier, Tupopdan and Qaroon peak. From

2700-446: The village. The old summer palace of the Mir of Hunza stands at the northern edge of Gulmit's historic polo ground. Old places of worship, now used as libraries, also adorn Gulmit valley. New buildings constructed by the government in Gulmit include the tehsil headquarters, the federal government's boys' high school, civil hospital, Diamond Jubilee girls middle school and government girls' higher secondary school. Al-Amyn model school,

2754-414: The west, there are views of Gulmit Glacier, Gulmit Tower, Shisper Peak and Utlar Sar. The population of Gulmit, according to 2016 survey, consists of around 5000 individuals. Fifty-one percent of the population is female. With virtually no rainfall during the year, Gulmit features a cool arid climate ( Köppen BWk ). The average temperature in summer is 18 to 24 °C or 64.4 to 75.2 °F, while

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2808-533: Was Deasy's description of the limits of Raskam. Starting from Aghil Dewan or pass, in the Karakoram range, the dividing line ran north-east to Bazar Dara , where it met the Yarkand River. He found an outpost built of earth at Bazar Dara, surmounted by a Chinese flag (by 1898 the Chinese had intruded to the area south of the Kun Lun Mountains with a few unarmed Kirghiz in occupation. This marked

2862-507: Was located where there is now the Government Girls High School in Gulmit. Qutllug ruled over Gulmit and its adjoining areas for twelve years. During his rule, land and life was safe and secure. He pushed the advancing Kirghiz back to their land and never let them succeed in their mission and goals. The heroic stories of Qulug still dominate the daily discourse of the Wakhi people living in Gulmit, Shimshal , Chipursan,

2916-404: Was poisoned to death by one of his elderly female servants. She was sent by then Mir of Hunza Mir Malik. She administered poison in the food of Qutlug and his courtesans. After the death of Qutllug, Gulmit was recaptured and Ondra fell into hands of the Mir of Hunza. Qutlug Baig was buried in Gulmit along with his courtesans. According to Afzal Khan, one of the notables of Gulmit, the grave of Qutlug

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