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The Dexaroi ( Ancient Greek : Δεξάροι ) were an ancient Chaonian tribe living under Mount Amyron. In ancient literature the Dexari are mentioned only by the ancient Greek writer Hecataeus of Miletus (6th century BC), cited by Stephanus of Byzantium (6th century AD). The Dexaroi were the northernmost tribe that belonged to the Chaonian group, one of the three major North-Western Greek -speaking tribes of Epirus .

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93-538: Mount Amyron has been identified by some modern scholars with Mount Tomorr , in present-day Albania . The mountain was probably located in a region that in Roman times was called Dassaretis. The Dexaroi have been supposedly equated with the Dassaretii by some scholars, hence they are also referred to as Dassaretae in some modern sources. However, all these hypothetical connections remain uncertain. The name "Dexari"

186-469: A 50% reduction in phosphorus input must be reached to keep the deep water oxygenated for the next 50 years at predicted atmospheric warming. This aim could be reached by controlling household wastewater, which is by far the biggest phosphorus source at the moment. First steps in that direction have been taken by extending and improving the existing sewage system in North Macedonia in the framework of

279-789: A GEF ( Global Environment Facility ) program. The most important next task would be a solution for three remaining, severely polluted tributaries, one in North Macedonia and two in Albania. On 3 May 2018, the Society of Wetland Scientists released the Declaration on the Protection of the Lake Ohrid Ecosystem, which was passed unanimously by 45 attending members at its 13th annual European meeting. Urging Macedonian authorities to substantially enhance protection of Lake Ohrid,

372-578: A deity itself, envisioned in the legendary figure of Baba Tomor , an old giant with a long flowing white beard and four female eagles hovering above him and perching on his snow-covered slopes. According to German folklorist Maximilian Lambertz , Baba Tomor is the remnant of an Illyrian deity. Baba Tomor has taken the Earthly Beauty to be his bride. She spends her days with her sister, the Sea Beauty, E Bukura e Detit, but when evening comes,

465-473: A great variety of flora . Many endangered species are free to roam and live in this area such as bears ( Ursus arctos ), wolf ( Canis lupus ), and birds of prey. Tomorr is a holy mountain for Albanians , and it is a site where annual pilgrimages take place during the second half of August. Along with St. Anthony's Catholic Church in Laç , Mount Tomorr is the most frequented sacred place in Albania. Mount Tomorr

558-511: A long hydraulic residence time scale of ~70 yr. The water at the surface of Lake Ohrid moves predominantly in a counter-clockwise direction along the shore, as a result of wind forcing and the Earth rotation, similar to the Ekman -phenomenon known from oceans. In terms of vertical water exchange, convective mixing during winter cooling is the dominant process. However, in an average winter only

651-576: A major issue in Lake Ohrid, although they have been recorded in small populations for several decades or exist in nearby rivers or lakes. The reason lies very probably in the ideal adaptation of the endemic species to the specific conditions in the lake, such as low nutrient availability, good living conditions in greater depth thanks to high water transparency and oxygen content, as well as subaquatic spring inflows supplying cool and oxygen -rich water. In total, seven introduced fish species are known from

744-656: A mixed Natural and Cultural World Heritage Site in 1980 when the city of Ohrid in Macedonia was also designated with UNESCO status for its architectural, artistic and religious values. Concern over current and potential deterioration of the World Heritage Site prompted invitation of a joint Reactive Monitoring Mission by the World Heritage Centre, IUCN and ICOMOS in April 2017, which identified

837-416: A result of the high market value of the endemic trout. As a reaction to the situation, a seven-year moratorium on fishing Ohrid trout was imposed from 2004 to help the population recover and to allow scientists to collect further data. Nonetheless, even though thorough assessment of fish stocks has not been conducted since the 1990s and trout populations are still believed to be in decline, fishing with quotas

930-422: A seismogenic landscape, with many visible traces including fresh fault scarps, displaced sediment and soil sequences, stepped hillsides, and a hydrothermal field near Kosel . Moderate earthquakes are frequent, with the strongest yet measured here on 18 February 1911, with a magnitude 6.6 at a focal depth of 15 km, destroying houses but with no loss of life. The lake drains an area of around 2,600 km² and

1023-628: A shoreline of 87.53 km (54.39 mi). 64% of Lake Ohrid's shoreline and 69% of its surface area are within North Macedonia , whereas 36% of the shoreline and 31% of the surface area fall within Albania . The Ohrid and Prespa Lakes are the two largest in a north–south chain of tectonic basins ( grabens ) including the Korçë basin , and Lake Ioannina in North West of Greece, known as

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1116-702: A similar name with the latter. J. J. Wilkes has also equated the Chaonian Dexari with the Dassaretae, who according to Polybius possessed many towns, including Pellion , Antipatrea , Chrysondyon , Gertus (or Gerous), Creonion , Tom Winnifrith (2020) states that the Illyrian tribes, including the Dassareti , bordered on peoples of Epirotic origins and dubious ethnicity like the Molossians and

1209-565: A weekend only, tourism makes an important contribution to the local economy (~1 visitor/inhabitant). Historically, Lake Ohrid was close to a main highway of the Roman Empire, the Via Egnatia , from Durrës on the coast of Albania to Thessalonika and Constantinople (Istanbul), but now is a communications backwater. There is a minor road around the lake, with border crossings between Albania and North Macedonia. Religious monuments such as

1302-569: A wide range of pressures including from transport infrastructure, traffic, tourism developments, overfishing, sewerage, solid waste disposal, invasive species, both legal and illegal construction, and management of water levels. The mission report devised 19 recommendations for Macedonia, which were incorporated under Decision 41 COM 7B.34 of the World Heritage Committee at its 41st Session in Krakow, Poland in 2017. In May 2019,

1395-443: A ~3.5 fold increase in phosphorus concentration over the past century. On the one hand, shifts from endemic to common European species, which are better adapted to higher nutrient conditions, have already been observed close to polluted inflows. On the other hand, higher nutrient levels have reduced the water transparency, as well as the oxygen availability in the deep water and at the lake bottom, two properties which are requisite for

1488-422: Is still an important buffer to prevent lake eutrophication and a key habitat for biodiversity, including relict plants and endemic species. These values, and the comparative rareness of similar habitats in Macedonia (now North Macedonia), prompted an expert team in 2012 to recommend designation of a 63.97-hectare area at Studenchishte Marsh to be protected as a Natural Monument under Macedonian law. Changes to

1581-412: Is a lake which straddles the mountainous border between the southwestern part of North Macedonia and eastern Albania . It is one of Europe 's deepest and oldest lakes, with a unique aquatic ecosystem of worldwide importance, with more than 200 endemic species. North Macedonia's side of Lake Ohrid was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979, with the site being extended to also include

1674-499: Is a mountain chain in the region of Berat and Skrapar , in Albania . It reaches an elevation of 2,416 metres (7,927 ft) above sea level at the Çuka e Partizanit , which is the highest peak in central Albania. Mount Tomorr is one of Albania's biggest water-collecting areas. Tomorr is situated within the Tomorr National Park , which is noted for its diverse species of deciduous and coniferous trees and

1767-576: Is a sacred site to both Christians , who climb it on Assumption Day (August 15) to honor the Virgin Mary , and the Bektashi , who honor Abbas ibn Ali during an annual pilgrimage on August 20–25. According to the traditions of the Bektashi Order , a Sufi community based primarily in Albania , Abbas ibn Ali ( Albanian : Abaz Aliu ) went to Albania on a white horse to save it from

1860-580: Is associated with Baba Tomor and Zojz by Albanian folk beliefs , with Abbas Ali by Bektashis and with Virgin Mary by Christians . Mount Tomorr offers various sports such as hiking, horse or donkey riding, canoeing, and skiing. The Albanian Tomor(r) derives from the Illyrian Tómaros , from Proto-Indo-European *tómh x es- , "dark". Illyrians called the mountain Tómaros . It

1953-416: Is fed primarily by underground springs on the eastern shore (about 50% of total inflow), with roughly 25% shares from rivers and direct precipitation. Over 20% of the lake's water comes from nearby Lake Prespa , about 10 km (6.2 mi) to the southeast and at 150 m higher altitude than Lake Ohrid. The water leaves Lake Prespa trickling through underground watercourses in the karstic landscape, where it

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2046-617: Is joined by mountain range precipitation and eventually emerges in numerous springs along the eastern shore and below the water surface of Lake Ohrid. The water leaves Lake Ohrid by evaporation (~40%) and through its only outlet, the Black Drin River , which flows in a northerly direction into Albania and thus to the Adriatic Sea . The relatively dry, Mediterranean climate and the small drainage basin of 2,600 km² (catchment/lake surface ratio of ~7) of Lake Ohrid results in

2139-475: Is mentioned only in a fragment of ancient Greek writer Hecataeus of Miletus (6th century BC) writing his Geography of the World , in which he showed a detailed knowledge of the region of Epirus and surrounding areas. This fragment has been preserved in an excerpt from the toponymic dictionary Ethnica (Εθνικά) by Stephanus of Byzantium (6th century AD), under the heading "Δέξαροι". The fragment stated that

2232-474: Is now a more significant part of their income. The catchment area of the lake has a population of around 170,000 people, with 131,000 people living directly at the lake shore (43,000 in Albania and 88,000 in North Macedonia). The population in the catchment has increased by 100,000 people in the last half century, putting the lake's fragile ecosystem under pressure. The historic monuments, as well as

2325-658: Is very unlikely today that eels can reach Lake Ohrid naturally and return to the Sargasso Sea , as a result of several hydropower dams on the Black Drin and the Drin River , both in North Macedonia and Albania. As a result, eel found in Lake Ohrid are stocked populations. Given the population growth over the past 50 years, a particular concern is the potential eutrophication of currently oligotrophic Lake Ohrid from increased pollution. Indeed, sediment cores show

2418-793: The Bay of Vlorë in the south to the Korçë Plain in the north and the lakeland area in the east. In particular Hammond located the Dexaroi in a region that stretched from mount Amyron ( Tomorr ) up to the southern coast of lake Lychnitis ( Lake Ohrid ). He further conjectured that the burials of Tumulis II in Kuç i zi in the Korçe-Maliq plain belonged to Dexaroi leaders. Hammond's hypothesis is based on an information provided by Hecataeus, according to which Chaonians and Enchelei were neighboring peoples, and on

2511-491: The Chaonians , and the Dassaretae were probably the same as Dexari. According to Radoslav Katičić (1995) there is no way to rule out the identification of Dexari with Dassareti advocated by Hammond, though it cannot be accepted as reliable. According to him necessary caution should be maintained about the equation of the two tribes. He argues that in later sources of antiquity the Dassareti always appear as Illyrians, while

2604-642: The Dalmatian pelican , ferruginous duck , swan , spotted eagle , and eastern imperial eagle . The Macedonian part of the lake has been designated an Important Bird Area (IBA) by BirdLife International because it supports populations of common coots and pygmy cormorants ( Microcarbo pygmaeus ) . The Albanian part of the lake has been designated a separate but corresponding IBA for the same reason, with additional bird species being common goldeneyes , red-crested pochards ( Netta rufina ) and black-necked grebes . Wetland of International Importance status under

2697-478: The Dead Sea . Most lakes have much shorter life spans as they rapidly fill with sediments. Lake Ohrid is being infilled at its north end by its modest main tributaries, but is preserved by its great depth, by continuing tectonic subsidence , and by the main inflows being from underground karstic channels from Lake Prespa carrying minimal sediment. The graben system is still tectonically active and Lake Ohrid sits in

2790-476: The Enchelei . The mountain has been identified by some modern scholars with Mount Tomorr , in present-day Albania . The mountain was probably located in a region that in Roman times was called Dassaretis. However, all these hypothetical connections remain uncertain. N. G. L. Hammond reconstructed for the period from the 6th century BC a vast northern dominion of the Chaonians in an area which expanded form

2883-819: The Periplus of Pseudo-Scylax (4th century BC) some scholars have corrected Καρία Karia with Δεξαρία Dexaria , thus introducing a toponym that is derived from the ethnonym Dexaroi , hapax in Hecataeus' fragment. Some scholars (Hammond, Wilkes, Weber) consider the Dexari mentioned by Hetataeus in the 6th century BC the same people as the Dassaretae mentioned in Roman times, other scholars (Kunstman and Thiergen, Winnifrith, Eichner, Campbell) consider them two distinct tribes. The best sources provided by ancient authors for

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2976-841: The UNESCO World Heritage Centre expanded the World Heritage Site to the Albanian side of the lake. In addition, draft Decision 43 COM 7B.36 was released recommending for the Ohrid region, including Lake Ohrid, to be placed on the List of World Heritage in Danger during the 43rd Session of the World Heritage Committee in Baku, Azerbaijan. This position aligns with IUCN advice. In its analysis and conclusions,

3069-414: The x/ks (ξ) is phonetically equivalent with ss (σσ). In both tribal names the same root is attached to the suffix -ar . The term δάξα, daksa , was also recorded by Hesychius as an Epirote word meaning sea. It resembles the Illyrian personal names Dazos and Dassius and is also reflected in the toponym of Daksa island and the river Ardaxanos , which is mentioned by Polybius (2nd century BC) in

3162-466: The 17th century. In 1908-1909 a two-room stone dervishia was built some 100 metres (330 ft) below the tyrbe , but according to the account of British journalist Joseph Swire who visited the place in 1930 it was burned by Greek armed groups in spring of 1914. A new tekke ( Albanian : teqe/teqja ) was founded and built in 1916 on the Kulmaku Mountain by Dervish Iljaz Vërzhezha, on

3255-533: The 1940s and again in the 1960s when the River Sateska was rerouted. Nowadays, the last remaining significant coastline wetland at Lake Ohrid is Studenchishte Marsh , which is located on the eastern shore near the city of Ohrid. Despite degradation from a variety of sources such as large-scale disposal of construction waste , major land conversion, disruption of water connections to Lake Ohrid, beach urbanization and loss of reed belts, Studenchishte Marsh

3348-434: The 2017 Reactive Monitoring Mission had not been implemented. Due to its size, accessibility and species richness, Lake Ohrid is extremely well-suited to the function of a natural laboratory. Deep sediment cores augmented by diverse ecology in the present day offer an extensive archive from which to understand the history of its region over the past 1,200,000 years. Research to date has investigated biodiversity processes,

3441-593: The Bektashi tekke on Mount Tomorr, which was built in 1916. In another Bektashi legend, Haji Bektash once saw Christian pilgrims ascend Mount Tomorr on August 15, the feast day of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary . He responded by making a journey to the grave of Abbas ibn Ali in the holy city of Karbala , where he dug up an arm bone belonging to Abbas ibn Ali. Haji Bektash then threw the arm bone up onto

3534-655: The Black Madonna south west of Struga and St Naum monastery are counterposed with ravages of war, such as the fortifications of the Macedonian Front across Galicica Mountain. The Macedonian side of Lake Ohrid was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO at the 3rd Session of the World Heritage Committee in 1979 and holds that status under Criterion VII as a superlative natural phenomenon related to its refuge function for relict and world-unique freshwater species, and its rich bird life. The lake became part of

3627-580: The Chaones are never considered as such, furthermore the Dassareti never intermingle with the Chaones nor are they mentioned as Epirotes. He also states that in Hecataeus' times the situation might have been different, and the information he gathered may not have been reliable at all. A possible Illyrian link of the Dassaretae faces many allegedly impenetrable issues in terms of epigraphic and archaeological evidence. Historian Dragic Danica (2013) concludes that

3720-724: The Chaonian one (equated by him with the Dexari) dwelling between Macedonia and Epirus, since according to Hammond Strabo , Livy and Polybius make a clear distinction between the Dassaretae and the Illyrians. Hammond states that the genealogy of Illyrian tribes recorded by Appian of Alexandria is probably associated with a tribe that lived further north from the Chaonian Dassaretae of the Korce-Maliq region which bore

3813-533: The Chaonian tribe of the Dexaroi is limited to the single fragment of Hecataeus. Wilkes (1991) equates the Dexaroi with the Roman times Dassaretae and states that their cities were Pellion , Antipatrea , Chrysondyon , Gertus (or Gerous), Creonion . Hecataeus mentions the Dexaroi dwelling around Korçë . In their east/southeast they bordered with the Orestae tribe of the Molossian group. The precise border on

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3906-684: The Dardanians. The destruction of Pelium in 335 BC by Dardanian Cleitus came probably due to the fact that the local Dassaratean inhabitants were not friendly towards the Dardanian raiders. Macedonian control was re-established in Dassaretis that year and remained as such during the era of Macedonian domination. In 319-317 B.C an Epirote army under Polyperchon and Olympias marched against the local settlement of Euia during their struggle against Cassander of Macedon. Antipatrea (modern Berat )

3999-465: The Dessaret group. The transition from compressional to extensional tectonics in the central Balkan Mts occurred around 6 million years ago, with the oldest lake sediments being Pliocene , possibly 3-5 million years old. The Dessaret chain is a poorly developed rift valley . Worldwide, rift valley lakes with similarly ancient origins include Lake Baikal , Lake Titicaca , Lake Tanganyika and

4092-648: The Dexari, a tribe of the Chaones , were adjacent to the Enchelei : "Δέξαροι, ἔθνος Χαόνων, τοῖς Ἐγχελέαις προσεχεῖς, Ἑκαταῖος Εὐρώπῃ. ὑπὸ Ἄμυρον ὄρος οἰκοῦν." "The Dexari, a Chaonian people neighbouring upon the Enchelei, as is stated by Hecataeus in his book about Europe, who lived under Mount Amyron." They are most probably also mentioned in a 5th-4th century BC inscription in Dodona as Δεξαιρεᾶται Dexaireatai . In

4185-516: The General Urban Plan for Ohrid 2014–2020, however, made provisions for Studenchishte Marsh to be drained and replaced with infrastructure for tourism and water-sports, a proposal which, together with other regional developments, was opposed by numerous local and international experts, including the Society of Wetland Scientists . A Strategic Environmental Assessment also concluded that no measure except non-implementation could reduce

4278-519: The Holy One of Tomorr", and practicing ritual sacrifices of animals—long before the shrine of Abbas Ali was correlated with the sacred site. There is also the oral tradition about the existence of the Church of Saint Marie there; however, the site lacks concrete evidence of any ancient pre-Muslim shrine. The first head of the tekke seems to have been Baba Haxhi. In the period between 1921 and 1925

4371-447: The Lake Ohrid basin. 73.5% (50 species) of the total freshwater gastropod fauna appear to be endemic to the Lake Ohrid basin. Whereas the endemic species list cited above is based on morphological and ecological characteristics, some recent applications of molecular genetic techniques underline the difference of the fauna from common European taxa, as well as the old age of the lake. Quite remarkably, exotic species do not seem to be

4464-546: The Ohrid Lake shore and underwater. This settlement, over 8,500 years old, developed agriculture 8,000–9,000 years ago, playing a key role in spreading farming practices across Europe. The Lin site predates similar Swiss sites by over 2,000 years. There are three cities on the lake's shores: Ohrid and Struga on the Macedonian side; and Pogradec in Albania. There are also several fishing villages, although tourism

4557-533: The Ramsar Convention is underpinned in part by the biogeographically significant populations of red-crested pochard and pygmy cormorants too, but also goosander ( Mergus merganser ). The prehistoric pile-dwelling near Lin in Pogradec, Albania, is Europe's oldest of its kind, as confirmed by University of Bern specialists. Archaeologists from Albania and Switzerland have been excavating remains on

4650-525: The Ramsar Convention. Ramsar status was formalized in 2021 although protection of Studenchishte Marsh at the national level has not yet been completed. The IUCN identifies wetland rehabilitation as one of five potential site needs for the UNESCO Natural and Cultural Heritage of the Ohrid Region. However, the potential to restore Struga Marsh, which was not included in the boundaries of

4743-585: The Ramsar Site, is likely to be reduced by construction of the European Corridor VIII railway, while Studenchishte's future is yet to be fully resolved. Measured by its surface area of 358 km², Ohrid is probably among the most biodiverse lakes on Earth. While it is special as such, by far the most spectacular quality is its impressive endemism . Similar to Lake Baikal or Lake Tanganyika , Lake Ohrid harbors endemic species covering

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4836-494: The Turks were taken completely by surprise and defeated. Sources report the massacre of 15,000 or, exaggerating, 30,000 soldiers of the Ottoman army. 15,000 prisoners, 24 horsetails of Ottoman commanders and the camp with all its precious contents fell into the hands of the Albanians. The particularities, beauty and sacredness of Mount Tomorr have been documented since the 17th century. Holy haunts were associated with certain orders of Islamic mysticism helping their expansion into

4929-427: The World Heritage Centre observed threats to Lake Ohrid from "decreased water levels, uncontrolled discharge, water pollution due to inadequate wastewater treatment systems leading to evident eutrophication at the mouths of intake rivers, heavy pressures from tourism, and extensive uncontrolled urban development and inappropriate exploitation of the coastal zones." It also observed that the majority of recommendations from

5022-414: The appearance of some 6th century BC tumuli in the Korça basin containing the burials of new rulers, who are considered Chaonians by Hammond. However the archaeological evidence is far from certain, since there are no elements of connection between Chaonians and these new rulers, and the same consideration can be made for the historical source, especially taking into account the fact that the knowledge about

5115-422: The area. The fortress of Tomorr in the early 14th century is attested as Timoro(n) under Byzantine control. In 1337, the Albanian tribes which lived in the areas of Belegrita (the region of Mt. Tomorr) and Kanina rose in rebellion, and seized the fortress of Tomorr. There is little detail about the rebellion in primary sources. John VI Kantakouzenos mentions that the Albanians in those areas rebelled despite

5208-445: The barbarians, and continues to return to Mount Tomorr in Albania for five days (August 20-25) each year, during which animal sacrifices are made and homage is paid to Abbas ibn Ali. During these five days, Bektashi pilgrims visit the Abbas Ali Türbe , which is believed to house the remains of Abbas ibn Ali. The türbe is located on the southern peak of Mount Tomorr, which was originally constructed in 1620. The mausoleum lies adjacent to

5301-406: The coastal portion of the lake holds Managed Nature Reserve status. In North Macedonia, a portion of the lakeside is part of the Galičica National Park. The towns situated at the lakeside are Ohrid and Struga in North Macedonia along with Pogradec in Albania. The lake is otherwise surrounded by settlements in the form of villages and resorts in both basin countries. Lake Ohrid is one of

5394-477: The communist dictatorship abolished religion in 1967, the pilgrimages stopped until the end of the regime. Under the pretext that the armed forces needed the mountain peak as a strategic military place, both the tyrbe and tekke were destroyed in 1967. After the fall of communism , the tekke was reconstructed in 1992, and the tyrbe in 2008. The tekke is presently headed by Baba Shaban. The number of participants in pilgrimages continues to grow every year. Mount Tomorr

5487-477: The cultural and historic area of Ohrid in 1980. In 2010, NASA named one of Titan's lakes after it. In 2014, the Ohrid-Prespa Transboundary Reserve between Albania and North Macedonia was added to UNESCO's World Network of Biosphere Reserves. Albania's side of Lake Ohrid was also designated UNESCO world heritage status in 2019. North Macedonia's portion was designated as a protected Ramsar site in 2021, passing all nine criteria for proclamation. In Albania,

5580-413: The declaration outlines the unique significance of the interconnected Ohrid-Prespa lake system, both for its biodiversity and relevance to research on climate and evolution, and recommends measures for future management including revitalization and enlargement of wetland areas, pollution control and a re-orientation of tourism policy. It further describes the "critical importance" of the last intact marsh on

5673-440: The direct negative impact on Studenchishte and the indirect negative impact on Lake Ohrid if the proposed construction was to take place at the wetland. Plans to drain the area have subsequently been reversed and the Macedonian government announced in 2018 that it would move forward with proclamation of Studenchishte Marsh as a protected area and its designation together with Lake Ohrid as a Wetland of International Importance under

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5766-405: The dominant view in modern historiography accepts the fact that the Dassaretae were counted among the northern Epirote tribes that settled in the northern regions of Epirus including Dassaretis. Dassaretaean onomastics share similarities with those of ancient Macedonia in particular in the field of names based on divinities from the Greek pantheon, such as Apollodoros . Tomorr Tomorr

5859-443: The east of the Dassaretae can't precisely be drawn: some scholars place it at the Tsangon pass , while others at the lake Maliq , near Korce. The regions of Chaonia and Parrhaeuaea were located on their southern border. The Dexaroi were probably neighboring to the north various Illyrian tribes when the latter would have started raiding the Chaonian lands possibly from c. 900 BC, weakening the Chaonian power. The Dexaroi were part of

5952-429: The endemic flora and fauna. Still, the lake is in a comparably good state at the moment. However it may take more than a decade to see the effects of today's pollution level in the lake, because of its long water residence time. Moreover, it was shown that the negative effects from eutrophication would be significantly amplified by global warming . Although there is time to react, computer simulations indicate that at least

6045-548: The filtered spring inflows, the water is exceptionally clear with transparencies to a depth of as much as 22 meters (66 feet). Lake Ohrid lacks an annual deep water exchange which in other lakes can bring complete overturn; plunging rivers are also absent. Despite this, dissolved oxygen never drops below ~6 mg L . Previously extensive wetland habitats in the vicinity of Lake Ohrid have been lost due to conversion into agricultural or urban land. These include Struga Marsh, large portions of which were drained for agriculture in

6138-434: The following poem in his 1890 poetry book Luletë e verësë ("Summer Flowers"): Abas Aliu zu’ Tomorë, Erdhi afër nesh, Shqipëria s’mbet e gjorë, Se Zoti e desh. Abbas Ali took over Tomorr, He came to live with us, Albania was no longer afflicted For God came to love it. In Albanian folklore , Mount Tomorr is considered the home of the deities. Moreover, it is anthropomorphized and considered

6231-461: The hinterland of modern Durrës and Lezhë . Weber states that the name Dassaretae is Illyrian and that it shares the same root with the name Dexari . According to N. G. L. Hammond , the Dexari are an archaic form of the later mentioned Dassaretii . Keramopoullos (1953) argues the name Dassaretae is connected to Greek : Διός όρος-ορείται ( Dios oros-oreitai , "Mountain of Zeus"). The Dexaroi are mentioned as dwelling under mount Amyron, near

6324-434: The interplay between geological and biological evolution, the birth of European agriculture, and investigations of regional climate and environmental conditions over hundreds of thousands of years. Among other contributions, such research has delivered the first empirical evidence for niche-based assembly processes from a natural system and demonstrated the establishment of dynamic equilibrium in an isolated ecosystem during

6417-522: The lake. Despite the exceptionally high level of endemism in Lake Ohrid (for example, a third of the 21 native fish species and almost 80% of its 72 mollusc species are endemic), a significant number of non-endemic species are found in Lake Ohrid. This includes species, which are mobile (e.g., via water birds) or migratory, such as the European eel . The lakeshore reed beds and wetlands provide critical habitat for hundreds of thousands of wintering water birds, including rare and threatened species such as

6510-548: The local chieftains on both sides of the Tomorr mountain range were loyal to Skanderbeg . In 1457 the Turks appear to have occupied a number of Albanian valleys. An Ottoman army under the leadership of Firuz Bey and Mihaloglu Ali Bey was sent westward and fought against the Albanian forces under Skanderbeg in the mountains of Albania in order to take possession of Kruje , Svetigrad and Berat . In Tomorr Skanderbeg won his bloodiest but also most brilliant victory on September 2, 1457. When Skanderbeg attacked Isa Bey's resting army,

6603-442: The name Dassaretae date to the period of Roman conquest, during the years between the first Roman raid into Illyricum in 228 BC and the Roman settlement of 167 BC. Whether or not they were same tribe still represents a significant and insufficiently answered question. According to Kunstmann and Thiergen, the tribal name Dexar- , like Dessar- / Dassar- , contains the Illyrian root *daksa/dassa ("water, sea"), since in Illyrian

6696-480: The oldest lakes in the world, and with a maximum depth of 288 metres (945 ft) and mean depth of 155 m (509 ft), it is the deepest lake in the Balkans . It covers an area of 358 square kilometres (138 sq mi) and contains an estimated 55.49 cubic kilometres (45 million acre-feet ) of water. The lake is 30.4 km (18.9 mi) long and 14.8 km (9.2 mi) wide at its maximum extent, with

6789-546: The peak of Mount Tomorr, thus turning the mountain into the second sacred grave ( türbe ) of Abbas ibn Ali. The cult of Mount Tomorr can be found in the Rilindja period of Albanian literature where authors such as Konstantin Kristoforidhi , Naim bey Frashëri , Andon Zako Çajupi , Asdreni , Hilë Mosi , and Ndre Mjeda devoted their works of prose and poetry to Father Tomor. As an example, Naim Frashëri wrote

6882-488: The pristine lake environment, make the area around Lake Ohrid a prime site for tourism. In the 1980s, more than 200,000 national and international tourists went on a pilgrimage to the Macedonian lake side every year. During the Yugoslav crisis and particularly after the interethnic conflicts within North Macedonia in 2001, international tourism collapsed but has been slowly recovering. Even though many visitors are staying for

6975-535: The privileges which Andronikos III Palaiologos had given them a few years earlier. These events marked the movement of these Albanian tribes into Epirus for the first time. Andronikos led an army mainly composed of Turkish mercenaries, and defeated the Albanians, killing many and taking prisoners. In the 15th century the region of Mount Tomorr was interested in the Albanian-Ottoman Wars . All

7068-527: The region. In the early 1880s, when the Bektashi Order was still growing, the movement took on a decisive Albanian nationalist character. The edifice at the top of the southern peak of Tomorr—a small round twelve-sided shrine encircled by a stone wall—is said to have been built or rebuilt during these years. Bektashis associated the shrine with the second tomb ( türbe/tyrbe ) of the legendary figure of Abbas ibn Ali ( Albanian : Abaz Ali ). Unverified sources claim that his mausoleum existed on Mount Tomorr since

7161-567: The reign of Philip II of Macedon , Illyrian tribes likely had occupied Dassaretis since no more information about Dexari is recorded and the siege of Pelium (335 B.C) was described as a campaign of Alexander in Illyria. The same scholar proposed the existence of two distinct homonymous tribes, the Illyrian one dwelling between the Dardani and the Ardiaei or next to the Dalmatian coast, and

7254-457: The shore, destroying of reed belts to gain agricultural land and intense pollution close to the mouth of tributaries. Although the effects of these human impacts have not been evaluated in detail they are of great concern, as the shallow water sites are particularly rich in endemic bottom fauna and form important spawning grounds for several endemic fish species. Moreover, reed belts have great importance for water birds. Commercial fish yield, i.e.

7347-411: The slowdown of both speciation and extinction rates. It has also demonstrated the importance of tree cover for buffering soil erosion during times of climate change and provided insight into the composition of regional flora through glacial and inter-glacial periods. Shore habitats are under particular pressure from human activities. Particular threats are the building of tourist facilities directly at

7440-540: The sons of Bulgarian Tsar Ivad Vladislav fled in Tomorr to continue the war against the Byzantines after the collapse of First Bulgarian Empire in 1018, but soon surrendered as they reached an agreement and received great privileges. The last Bulgarian governor of Berat was an Elimagos. The 13th century was a series of changes in the region. Manfred of Sicily and then Angevine Albania after 1271–72 held control of

7533-507: The southeastern part of the Tomorr range, just below the old dervishia . According to the Albanian Bektashis of the early 20th century the tekke was built on the site of an ancient pagan temple. Mount Tomorr certainly seems to have been the site of a pre-Christian cult and to have been worshiped by the locals, both Christians and Muslims, as a mountain with a supernatural force—swearing solemn oaths "By Him of Tomorr" and "By

7626-811: The tekke was headed by Baba Ali Tomorri. Around 1930 about five dervishes were living in the structure. During the Greco-Italian War (1940–1941) the Greek forces managed to advance towards the Italian positions in the region and at early April 1941 the Tomorri sector was controlled by units of the West Macedonia Army Department of the Greek Army. Informations about the tekke during the communist period are scanty. After

7719-400: The top 150–200 meters of the lake are mixed, whereas the water below is stably stratified by salinity. The stability due to this salinity gradient allows complete convective mixing events only roughly once every 7 years. Both in terms of nutrient concentration (4.5 μg L of phosphorus), as well as biological parameters Lake Ohrid qualifies as oligotrophic . Thanks to this oligotrophy and

7812-411: The two endemic trout species, has dropped significantly over the past decades, both in North Macedonia and in Albania. The most probable reason is overfishing and possibly destruction of spawning grounds. Pollution may also be a factor. Although there are regulations regarding fishing practice (e.g. minimal mesh size) and only a limited number of licensed fishermen, these rules are always not obeyed as

7905-486: The village of Sinja BR. Shpirag, for his part, pounded Tomor with his cudgel and left many a wound on the lofty mountain, but was overcome. The two giants ultimately slew one another and the maiden drowned in her tears, which became the Osum river." Lake Ohrid Lake Ohrid ( Macedonian : Охридско Езеро , Ohridsko Ezero , [ˈɔxridzkɔ ˈɛzɛrɔ] ; Albanian : Liqeni i Ohrit [liˈcɛni i ˈɔhrit] )

7998-689: The whole food-chain, from phytoplankton and sessile algae (20 species; e.g., Cyclotella fottii ), over plant species (2 species; e.g., Chara ohridana ), zooplankton (5 species; e.g., Cyclops ochridanus ), cyprinid fish (8 species; e.g., Pachychilon pictum ), to predatory fish (two trout species; the Ohrid trout complex Salmo letnica , and "Belvica" Salmo ohridanus ) and finally its diverse endemic bottom fauna (176 species; e.g. Ochridagammarus solidus ), with particularly large endemism among crustaceans , molluscs , sponges and planarians . There were recorded 68 species of freshwater snails from

8091-537: The wider tribal state of the Chaonians during the 6th century BC. At a later period they presumably formed their own independent association. During the reign of Philip II (359–336 BC) the Macedonians managed to terminate the Dardanian rule in the land of the Dassaretae. As such the Dassaretae became not only independent again but Philip also managed to create a Macedonian buffer zone on their northern border with

8184-642: The wind, faithful servant of Baba Tomor, carries her back up the mountainside to him. Mount Tomor overlooks the town of Berat, which the old man jealously guards as his favourite city. Across the valley is Mount Shpirag with furrow-like torrents of water running down its slopes. While Baba Tomor was dallying in bed with the Earthy Beauty one day, Shpirag took advantage of the moment and advanced to take over Berat. The four guardian eagles duly awakened Baba Tomor from his dreams. When told of Shpirag's surreptitious plans, Baba Tomor arose from his bed. His first concern

8277-408: Was called Dassaretis. However, all these hypothetical connections remain uncertain. Vibius Sequester (4th or 5th century AD) records the mountain with the name Tomarus , and locates it in the Roman province of Macedonia , near Apollonia . Among Byzantine authors the mountain was known as Tmoros ( Greek : Τμόρος ) or Timoros (Greek: Τίμορος ). During the reign of Byzantine Emperor Basil II ,

8370-457: Was for the safety of the Earthly Beauty and so he ordered the East Wind to carry her back to the home of her sister. Mounting his mule, Tomor then set off to do battle with Shpirag. With his scythe, Tomor lashed into Shpirag, inflicting upon him many a wound which can be seen today as the furrows running down the mountainside. A trace of the hoof of Baba Tomor's mule can, it is said, be seen near

8463-542: Was founded by the regent of Macedon, Antipater . During the reign of Pyrrhus of Epirus (306–302, 297–272 BC) Dassaretis came possibly into Epirote control. In 217 BC Illyrian Scerdilaidas advanced against Philip V of Macedonia through the region of Pelagonia and the Dassaretian territory capturing Antipatreia, Chrysondyon, and Gertus. As such in 213-212 B.C apart from Dassaretis Philip also campaigned in Illyria, Dardania and Thrace. Hammond has argued that before

8556-495: Was restarted in 2012 under the auspices of a concessionaire. More data is required to determine whether these current fishing levels are sustainable and illegal fishing, particularly on the Albanian side of the lake, remains a problem. While most of the endemic fish species are non-migratory, the European eel spawns in the distant Sargasso Sea while its offspring return to the lake. Unfortunately, as in many European lakes, it

8649-471: Was the most prominent mountain in southern Illyria . The mountain has been connected by modern scholars to Mount Amyron ( Greek : Άμυρον ), recorded by Stephanus of Byzantium (6th century AD) citing Hecataeus of Miletus (6th century BC). In the passage, it is reported that the Dexaroi , a Chaonian tribe, dwelled under this mountain. The mountain was probably located in a region that in Roman times

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