100-620: Fattorini & Sons Ltd was a jewellery business established by a family of Italian immigrants who arrived in the British city of Leeds , in Yorkshire , England in the early 19th century. Antonio Fattorini opened a shop in Harrogate to take advantage of seasonal trade in Harrogate in 1831, this business is today owned and run by descendants of the founders. In the 1850s, he opened
200-789: A fine gem , jewel , precious stone , semiprecious stone , or simply gem ) is a piece of mineral crystal which, when cut or polished, is used to make jewelry or other adornments . Certain rocks (such as lapis lazuli , opal , and obsidian ) and occasionally organic materials that are not minerals (such as amber , jet , and pearl ) may also be used for jewelry and are therefore often considered to be gemstones as well. Most gemstones are hard, but some softer minerals such as brazilianite may be used in jewelry because of their color or luster or other physical properties that have aesthetic value . However, generally speaking, soft minerals are not typically used as gemstones by virtue of their brittleness and lack of durability. Found all over
300-649: A clear indicator of Greek influence in Etruscan jewellery. The modelling of heads, which was a typical practice from the Greek severe period, was a technique that spread throughout the Etruscan territory. An even clearer evidence of new influences is the shape introduced in the Orientalizing era: The Bullae. A pear shaped vessel used to hold perfume. Its surface was usually decorated with repoussé and engraved symbolic figures. Gemstone A gemstone (also called
400-442: A cubic crystal system, are often found as octahedrons . Gemstones are classified into different groups , species , and varieties . For example, ruby is the red variety of the species corundum , while any other color of corundum is considered sapphire. Other examples are the emerald (green), aquamarine (blue), red beryl (red), goshenite (colorless), heliodor (yellow), and morganite (pink), which are all varieties of
500-504: A diamond. With modification, these categories can be useful in understanding the grading of all gemstones. The four criteria carry different weights depending upon whether they are applied to colored gemstones or to colorless diamonds. In diamonds, the cut is the primary determinant of value, followed by clarity and color. An ideally cut diamond will sparkle, to break down light into its constituent rainbow colors (dispersion), chop it up into bright little pieces (scintillation), and deliver it to
600-447: A gemstone is a natural stone or synthetic, the chemical, physical, and optical characteristics are the same: They are composed of the same mineral and are colored by the same trace materials, have the same hardness and density and strength , and show the same color spectrum , refractive index , and birefringence (if any). Lab-created stones tend to have a more vivid color since impurities common in natural stones are not present in
700-433: A more desirable blue / purple color. A considerable portion of all sapphire and ruby is treated with a variety of heat treatments to improve both color and clarity. When jewelry containing diamonds is heated for repairs, the diamond should be protected with boric acid ; otherwise, the diamond, which is pure carbon, could be burned on the surface or even burned completely up. When jewelry containing sapphires or rubies
800-572: A natural feel. However, any inclusion of lead or lead solder will give a British Assay office (the body which gives U.K. jewellery its stamp of approval, the Hallmark ) the right to destroy the piece, however, it is very rare for the assay office to do so. Beads are frequently used in jewellery. These may be made of glass, gemstones, metal, wood , shells, clay and polymer clay. Beaded jewellery commonly encompasses necklaces , bracelets , earrings , belts and rings . Beads may be large or small;
900-487: A number of inclusions), cut, unusual optical phenomena within the stone such as color zoning (the uneven distribution of coloring within a gem) and asteria (star effects). Apart from the more generic and commonly used gemstones such as from diamonds , rubies , sapphires , and emeralds , pearls and opal have also been defined as precious in the jewellery trade. Up to the discoveries of bulk amethyst in Brazil in
1000-508: A prominent manufacturer of regalia for use in the different Orders of Freemasonry . Their factories and retail outlets in Yorkshire and Birmingham provided a regional competitor to the well-known London based regalia manufacturing companies. Many items of masonic regalia manufactured by Fattorini and Sons remain in current use, and bear the company's "signature-style" label. The North Wales Society of Architects ' Presidential Chain of Office
1100-938: A responsible and modern alternative to mined diamonds. Retailers are responding to this trend by expanding their offerings of lab-grown diamond jewellery, further solidifying their place in the market. Many precious and semiprecious stones are used for jewellery. Among them are: Some gemstones (like pearls, coral, and amber) are classified as organic, meaning that they are produced by living organisms. Others are inorganic, meaning that they are generally composed of and arise from minerals. Some gems, for example, amethyst , have become less valued as methods of extracting and importing them have progressed. Some man-made gems can serve in place of natural gems, such as cubic zirconia , which can be used in place of diamonds. For platinum , gold , and silver jewellery, there are many techniques to create finishes. The most common are high-polish, satin/matte, brushed , and hammered. High-polished jewellery
SECTION 10
#17327731582341200-626: A result of this is the exploitation of natural resources and labor within gemstone mining operations. Many mines, particularly in developing countries, face challenges such as inadequate safety measures, low wages, and poor working conditions. Miners , often from disadvantaged backgrounds, endure hazardous working conditions and receive meager wages, contributing to cycles of poverty and exploitation. Gemstone mining operations are frequently conducted in remote or underdeveloped areas, lacking proper infrastructure and access to essential services such as healthcare and education. This further contributes to
1300-448: A ring can be classified: prong, bezel and tension setting. Synthetic diamonds, also referred to as lab-grown diamonds, are created using advanced technological processes such as High-Pressure High-Temperature (HPHT) and Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) . These methods result in diamonds that are chemically and physically identical to natural diamonds , offering the same brilliance and durability. The popularity of synthetic diamonds in
1400-602: A rounded steel hammer and hammering the jewellery to give it a wavy texture . Some jewellery is plated to give it a shiny, reflective look or to achieve a desired colour. Sterling silver jewellery may be plated with a thin layer of 0.999 fine silver (a process known as flashing) or plated with rhodium or gold. Base metal costume jewellery may also be plated with silver, gold, or rhodium for a more attractive finish. Jewellery has been used to denote status. In ancient Rome, only certain ranks could wear rings and later, sumptuary laws dictated who could wear what type of jewellery. This
1500-777: A shop in Bradford with two of his sons. In 1883, the firm made the first ever chess clock comprising two linked pendulum clocks. By the 1920s, the company was making sports trophies and medals for the local and then national markets. They made such famous trophies as the FA Cup and the Rugby League Challenge Cup - both in use to this day. Fattorini and Sons also marketed sewing machines manufactured by Varley. Thomas Fattorini Ltd , emblematic jewellers, still manufacture specialist bespoke sports trophies, awards and medals today. For many years Fattorini and Sons were
1600-475: A status symbol, for its material properties, its patterns, or for meaningful symbols. Jewellery has been made to adorn nearly every body part, from hairpins to toe rings , and even genital jewellery . In modern European culture the amount worn by adult males is relatively low compared with other cultures and other periods in European culture. The word jewellery itself is derived from the word jewel , which
1700-573: A stone bracelet and marble ring are attributed to a similar age. Later, the European early modern humans had crude necklaces and bracelets of bone, teeth, berries, and stone hung on pieces of string or animal sinew , or pieces of carved bone used to secure clothing together. In some cases, jewellery had shell or mother-of-pearl pieces. A decorated engraved pendant (the Star Carr Pendant ) dating to around 11,000 BC, and thought to be
1800-626: A stone is untreated, while another lab might conclude that it is heat-treated. To minimize such differences, seven of the most respected labs, AGTA-GTL (New York), CISGEM (Milano), GAAJ-ZENHOKYO (Tokyo), GIA (Carlsbad), GIT (Bangkok), Gübelin (Lucerne) and SSEF (Basel), have established the Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee (LMHC), for the standardization of wording reports, promotion of certain analytical methods and interpretation of results. Country of origin has sometimes been difficult to determine, due to
1900-461: A two-to-one margin. In French and a few other European languages the equivalent term, joaillerie , may also cover decorated metalwork in precious metal such as objets d'art and church items, not just objects worn on the person. Humans have used jewellery for a number of different reasons: Most cultures at some point have had a practice of keeping large amounts of wealth stored in the form of jewellery. Numerous cultures store wedding dowries in
2000-556: A war zone and sold to finance an insurgency . The British crown jewels contain the Cullinan Diamond , part of the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found (1905), at 3,106.75 carats (621.35 g). Now popular in engagement rings , this usage dates back to the marriage of Maximilian I to Mary of Burgundy in 1477. A popular style is the diamond solitaire, which features a single large diamond mounted prominently. Within solitaire, there are three categories in which
2100-400: A woman's death it was sold at the souk and recycled or sold to passers-by. Islamic jewellery from before the 19th century is thus exceedingly rare. The history of jewellery is long and goes back many years, with many different uses among different cultures. It has endured for thousands of years and has provided various insights into how ancient cultures worked. The earliest known Jewellery
SECTION 20
#17327731582342200-448: Is hardstone . Use of the terms 'precious' and 'semi-precious' in a commercial context is, arguably, misleading in that it suggests certain stones are more valuable than others when this is not reflected in the actual market value, although it would generally be correct if referring to desirability. In modern times gemstones are identified by gemologists , who describe gems and their characteristics using technical terminology specific to
2300-434: Is a common practice. Most citrine is made by heating amethyst , and partial heating with a strong gradient results in " ametrine " – a stone partly amethyst and partly citrine. Aquamarine is often heated to remove yellow tones, or to change green colors into the more desirable blue, or enhance its existing blue color to a deeper blue. Nearly all tanzanite is heated at low temperatures to remove brown undertones and give
2400-509: Is a recognized grading of the gem's luster, transparency, or "brilliance". Very transparent gems are considered " first water ", while "second" or "third water" gems are those of a lesser transparency. Additionally, material or flaws within a stone may be present as inclusions . Gemstones have no universally accepted grading system. Diamonds are graded using a system developed by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in
2500-522: Is also colored to make the emerald appear of better color as well as clarity. Turquoise is also commonly treated in a similar manner. Fracture filling has been in use with different gemstones such as diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires. In 2006 "glass-filled rubies" received publicity. Rubies over 10 carats (2 g) with large fractures were filled with lead glass, thus dramatically improving the appearance (of larger rubies in particular). Such treatments are fairly easy to detect. Another treatment method that
2600-460: Is also very popular in many African and indigenous North American cultures. Silversmiths , goldsmiths , and lapidaries use methods including forging , casting , soldering or welding , cutting, carving and "cold-joining" (using adhesives , staples and rivets to assemble parts). Diamonds were first mined in India . Pliny may have mentioned them, although there is some debate as to
2700-440: Is commonly used to treat gemstones is bleaching. This method uses a chemical in order to reduce the colour of the gem. After bleaching, a combination treatment can be done by dying the gemstone once the unwanted colours are removed. Hydrogen peroxide is the most commonly used product used to alter gemstones and have notably been used to treat jade and pearls. The treatment of bleaching can also be followed by impregnation, which allows
2800-515: Is considered to be one of the important gemstones after rubies, emeralds, and sapphires according to Gübelin Gemlab. Even though it is a tourmaline, Paraiba Tourmaline is one of the most expensive gemstones. There are a number of laboratories which grade and provide reports on gemstones. Each laboratory has its own methodology to evaluate gemstones. A stone can be called "pink" by one lab while another lab calls it "padparadscha". One lab can conclude
2900-501: Is emerald (green). Yellow, red and blue beryls are possible but much more rare. Synthetic emerald became possible with the development of the flux growth process and is produced in this way and well as hydrothermal growth. Types of synthetic quartz include citrine, rose quartz, and amethyst. Natural occurring quartz is not rare, but is nevertheless synthetically produced as it has practical application outside of aesthetic purposes. Quartz generates an electric current when under pressure and
3000-563: Is essential. Additionally, investing in community development projects, such as education and healthcare initiatives, can help alleviate poverty and empower marginalized communities dependent on the gemstone industry. Collaboration across sectors is crucial for fostering a more equitable and sustainable gemstone trade that benefits both producers and consumers while respecting human rights and environmental integrity. Synthetic gemstones are distinct from imitation or simulated gems. Synthetic gems are physically, optically, and chemically identical to
3100-419: Is heated, those stones should not be coated with boric acid (which can etch the surface) or any other substance. They do not have to be protected from burning, like a diamond (although the stones do need to be protected from heat stress fracture by immersing the part of the jewelry with stones in the water when metal parts are heated). The irradiation process is widely practiced in jewelry industry and enabled
Fattorini & Sons - Misplaced Pages Continue
3200-410: Is perceived by the viewer as sparkle. There are many commonly used shapes for faceted stones . The facets must be cut at the proper angles, which varies depending on the optical properties of the gem. If the angles are too steep or too shallow, the light will pass through and not be reflected back toward the viewer. The faceting machine is used to hold the stone onto a flat lap for cutting and polishing
3300-739: Is still trading, and is located in the Birmingham Jewellery quarter , where it is managed by the 6th generation of the Fattorini family. The Harrogate jewellery shop is owned and run by the Tindalls, descendants via the female line. Jewellery Jewellery (or jewelry in American English ) consists of decorative items worn for personal adornment such as brooches , rings , necklaces , earrings , pendants , bracelets , and cufflinks . Jewellery may be attached to
3400-660: Is the 'Gold Olive Wreath' (4th century BC), which is modeled on the type of wreath given as a prize for winners in athletic competitions like the Olympic Games. Jewellery dating from 600 to 475 BC is not well represented in the archaeological record, but after the Persian wars the quantity of jewellery again became more plentiful. One particularly popular type of design at this time was a bracelet decorated with snake and animal-heads Because these bracelets used considerably more metal, many examples were made from bronze. By 300 BC,
3500-419: Is the most common and gives the metal a highly reflective, shiny look. Satin, or matte finish reduces the shine and reflection of the jewellery, and this is commonly used to accentuate gemstones such as diamonds . Brushed finishes give the jewellery a textured look and are created by brushing a material (similar to sandpaper) against the metal, leaving "brush strokes". Hammered finishes are typically created using
3600-423: Is usually sterling silver , or 92.5% fine silver. In costume jewellery , stainless steel findings are sometimes used. Other commonly used materials include glass , such as fused-glass or enamel ; wood , often carved or turned; shells and other natural animal substances such as bone and ivory ; natural clay ; polymer clay ; Hemp and other twines have been used as well to create jewellery that has more of
3700-677: The Royal Cemetery of Ur , where hundreds of burials dating 2900–2300 BC were unearthed; tombs such as that of Puabi contained a multitude of artefacts in gold, silver, and semi-precious stones, such as lapis lazuli crowns embellished with gold figurines, close-fitting collar necklaces, and jewel-headed pins. In Assyria , men and women both wore extensive amounts of jewellery, including amulets , ankle bracelets, heavy multi-strand necklaces, and cylinder seals . Jewellery in Mesopotamia tended to be manufactured from thin metal leaf and
3800-733: The Rugby league . Manningham were the new game's first champions in 1896. After a period of decline Manningham changed games and became the football club Bradford City in 1903. Once again the Fattorinis were at the forefront of the switch to football, they also designed and made the FA cup which Bradford City won in 1911. Fattorini & Sons was sold to Thomas Fattorini Ltd in 1984. Thomas Fattorini Ltd and Fattorini & Sons were friendly rivals for many years, both businesses being owned and managed by descendants of Antonio Fattorini. Thomas Fattorini Ltd
3900-446: The ancient Greeks , begins with a distinction between precious and semi-precious ; similar distinctions are made in other cultures. In modern use, the precious stones are emerald , ruby , sapphire and diamond , with all other gemstones being semi-precious. This distinction reflects the rarity of the respective stones in ancient times, as well as their quality: all are translucent , with fine color in their purest forms (except for
4000-415: The 19th century, amethyst was considered a "precious stone" as well, going back to ancient Greece. Even in the last century certain stones such as aquamarine , peridot and cat's eye ( cymophane ) have been popular and hence been regarded as precious, thus reinforcing the notion that a mineral's rarity may have been implicated in its classification as a precious stone and thus contribute to its value. Today
4100-724: The Berber cultures is a style of traditional jewellery worn by women and girls in the rural areas of the Maghreb region in North Africa inhabited by indigenous Berber people (in Berber language : Amazigh, Imazighen , pl). Following long social and cultural traditions, the silversmiths of different ethnic Berber groups of Morocco, Algeria and neighbouring countries created intricate jewellery to adorn their women and that formed part of their ethnic identity . Traditional Berber jewellery
Fattorini & Sons - Misplaced Pages Continue
4200-457: The Gods. They worked two styles of pieces: cast pieces and pieces hammered out of sheet metal. Fewer pieces of cast jewellery have been recovered. It was made by casting the metal onto two stone or clay moulds. The two-halves were then joined, and wax , followed by molten metal, was placed in the centre. This technique had been practised since the late Bronze Age . The more common form of jewellery
4300-655: The Great conquered part of it. In earlier designs, other European influences can also be detected. When Roman rule came to Greece, no change in jewellery designs was detected. However, by 27 BC, Greek designs were heavily influenced by the Roman culture. That is not to say that indigenous design did not thrive. Numerous polychrome butterfly pendants on silver foxtail chains, dating from the 1st century, have been found near Olbia , with only one example ever found anywhere else. Gorgons, pomegranates, acorns, lotus flowers and palms were
4400-566: The Greeks had mastered making coloured jewellery and using amethysts , pearl , and emeralds . Also, the first signs of cameos appeared, with the Greeks creating them from Indian Sardonyx , a striped brown pink and cream agate stone. Greek jewellery was often simpler than in other cultures, with simple designs and workmanship. However, as time progressed, the designs grew in complexity and different materials were soon used. Jewellery in Greece
4500-521: The Kurgan settlement of Yunatsite near Pazardzhik , the golden treasure Sakar, as well as beads and gold jewellery found in the Kurgan settlement of Provadia – Solnitsata ("salt pit"). However, Varna gold is most often called the oldest since this treasure is the largest and most diverse. By approximately 5,000 years ago, jewellery-making had become a significant craft in the cities of Mesopotamia . The most significant archaeological evidence comes from
4600-580: The Museum of Ancient History in Lower Austria revealed that they had found a grave of a female jewellery worker – forcing archaeologists to take a fresh look at prehistoric gender roles after it appeared to be that of a female fine metal worker – a profession that was previously thought to have been carried out exclusively by men. The first signs of established jewellery making in Ancient Egypt
4700-614: The Mycenaean period, but unfortunately this skill was lost at the end of the Bronze Age. The forms and shapes of jewellery in ancient Greece such as the armring (13th century BC), brooch (10th century BC) and pins (7th century BC), have varied widely since the Bronze Age as well. Other forms of jewellery include wreaths, earrings, necklace and bracelets. A good example of the high quality that gold working techniques could achieve in Greece
4800-448: The U.S. featured a double-ring ceremony, up from 15% in the 1920s. Some religions have specific rules or traditions surrounding jewellery (or even prohibiting it) and many religions have edicts against excessive display. Islam, for instance, considers the wearing of gold by men as Haraam . The majority of Islamic jewellery was in the form of bridal dowries , and traditionally was not handed down from generation to generation; instead, on
4900-830: The Western practice of married people wearing wedding rings). Wearing of amulets and devotional medals to provide protection or to ward off evil is common in some cultures. These may take the form of symbols (such as the ankh ), stones, plants, animals, body parts (such as the Khamsa ), or glyphs (such as stylised versions of the Throne Verse in Islamic art ). In creating jewellery, gemstones , coins , or other precious items are often used, and they are typically set into precious metals . Platinum alloys range from 900 (90% pure) to 950 (95% pure). The silver used in jewellery
5000-529: The basis of their alleged healing powers. A gemstone that has been rising in popularity is Cuprian Elbaite Tourmaline which is also called "Paraiba Tourmaline". It was first discovered in the late 1980s in Paraíba, Brazil and later in Mozambique and Nigeria. It is famous for its glowing neon blue color. Paraiba Tourmaline has become one of the most popular gemstones in recent times thanks to its color and
5100-469: The body or the clothes. From a western perspective, the term is restricted to durable ornaments , excluding flowers for example. For many centuries metal such as gold often combined with gemstones , has been the normal material for jewellery, but other materials such as glass, shells and other plant materials may be used. Jewellery is one of the oldest types of archaeological artefact – with 100,000-year-old beads made from Nassarius shells thought to be
SECTION 50
#17327731582345200-455: The color from white to blue. Most green quartz (Oro Verde) are also irradiated to achieve the yellow-green color. Diamonds are mainly irradiated to become blue-green or green, although other colors are possible. When light-to-medium-yellow diamonds are treated with gamma rays they may become green; with a high-energy electron beam, blue. Emeralds containing natural fissures are sometimes filled with wax or oil to disguise them. This wax or oil
5300-525: The colorless diamond), and very hard with a hardness score of 8 to 10 on the Mohs scale . Other stones are classified by their color, translucency , and hardness. The traditional distinction does not necessarily reflect modern values; for example, while garnets are relatively inexpensive, a green garnet called tsavorite can be far more valuable than a mid-quality emerald. Another traditional term for semi-precious gemstones used in art history and archaeology
5400-673: The constant discovery of new source locations. Determining a "country of origin" is thus much more difficult than determining other aspects of a gem (such as cut, clarity, etc.). Gem dealers are aware of the differences between gem laboratories and will make use of the discrepancies to obtain the best possible certificate. A few gemstones are used as gems in the crystal or other forms in which they are found. Most, however, are cut and polished for usage as jewelry. The two main classifications are as follows: Stones which are opaque or semi-opaque such as opal , turquoise , variscite , etc. are commonly cut as cabochons. These gems are designed to show
5500-444: The creation of gemstone colors that do not exist or are extremely rare in nature. However, particularly when done in a nuclear reactor , the processes can make gemstones radioactive. Health risks related to the residual radioactivity of the treated gemstones have led to government regulations in many countries. Virtually all blue topaz , both the lighter and the darker blue shades such as "London" blue, has been irradiated to change
5600-572: The earliest methods of gemstone treatment date back to the Minoan Age, for example foiling, which is where metal foil is used to enhance a gemstone's colour. Other methods recorded 2000 years ago in the book Natural History by Pliny the Elder include oiling and dyeing/staining. Heat can either improve or spoil gemstone color or clarity. The heating process has been well known to gem miners and cutters for centuries, and in many stone types heating
5700-410: The early 1950s. Historically, all gemstones were graded using the naked eye. The GIA system included a major innovation: the introduction of 10x magnification as the standard for grading clarity. Other gemstones are still graded using the naked eye (assuming 20/20 vision). A mnemonic device , the "four Cs" (color, cut, clarity, and carats), has been introduced to help describe the factors used to grade
5800-470: The exact nature of the stone he referred to as Adamas . In 2005, Australia , Botswana , Russia and Canada ranked among the primary sources of gemstone diamond production. There are negative consequences of the diamond trade in certain areas. Diamonds mined during the recent civil wars in Angola , Ivory Coast , Sierra Leone , and other nations have been labeled as blood diamonds when they are mined in
5900-410: The eye (brilliance). In its rough crystalline form, a diamond will do none of these things; it requires proper fashioning and this is called "cut". In gemstones that have color, including colored diamonds, the purity, and beauty of that color is the primary determinant of quality. Physical characteristics that make a colored stone valuable are color, clarity to a lesser extent (emeralds will always have
6000-445: The eye as the perceived color. A ruby appears red because it absorbs all other colors of white light while reflecting red. A material which is mostly the same can exhibit different colors. For example, ruby and sapphire have the same primary chemical composition (both are corundum ) but exhibit different colors because of impurities which absorb and reflect different wavelengths of light depending on their individual compositions. Even
6100-439: The fact that these impurities can be "manipulated", thus changing the color of the gem. Gemstones are often treated to enhance the color or clarity of the stone. In some cases, the treatment applied to the gemstone can also increase its durability. Even though natural gemstones can be transformed using the traditional method of cutting and polishing, other treatment options allow the stone's appearance to be enhanced. Depending on
SECTION 60
#17327731582346200-451: The field of gemology . The first characteristic a gemologist uses to identify a gemstone is its chemical composition . For example, diamonds are made of carbon ( C ) and rubies of aluminium oxide ( Al 2 O 3 ). Many gems are crystals which are classified by their crystal system such as cubic or trigonal or monoclinic . Another term used is habit , the form the gem is usually found in. For example, diamonds, which have
6300-620: The five fingers of the hand and is traditionally believed both by Muslims as well as Jewish people to protect against the evil eye . The oldest gold jewellery in the world is dating from 4,600 BC to 4,200 BC and was discovered in Europe, at the site of Varna Necropolis , near the Black Sea coast in Bulgaria . Several prehistoric Bulgarian finds are considered no less old – the golden treasures of Hotnitsa, Durankulak , artifacts from
6400-417: The flat facets. Rarely, some cutters use special curved laps to cut and polish curved facets. The color of any material is due to the nature of light itself. Daylight, often called white light, is all of the colors of the spectrum combined. When light strikes a material, most of the light is absorbed while a smaller amount of a particular frequency or wavelength is reflected. The part that is reflected reaches
6500-439: The form of jewellery or make jewellery as a means to store or display coins. Alternatively, jewellery has been used as a currency or trade good to buy and sell. an example being the use of slave beads . Many items of jewellery, such as brooches and buckles , originated as purely functional items, but evolved into decorative items as their functional requirement diminished. Similarly, Tiffany & Co . produced inkwells in
6600-668: The gemstone trade no longer makes such a distinction. Many gemstones are used in even the most expensive jewelry, depending on the brand-name of the designer, fashion trends, market supply, treatments, etc. Nevertheless, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds still have a reputation that exceeds those of other gemstones. Rare or unusual gemstones, generally understood to include those gemstones which occur so infrequently in gem quality that they are scarcely known except to connoisseurs, include andalusite , axinite , cassiterite , clinohumite , painite and red beryl . Gemstone pricing and value are governed by factors and characteristics in
6700-425: The gemstone's durability to be increased. The socio-economic dynamics of the gemstone industry are shaped by market forces and consumer preferences and typically go undiscussed. Changes in demand and prices can significantly affect the livelihoods of those involved in gemstone mining and trade, particularly in developing countries where the industry serves as a crucial source of income. A situation that arises as
6800-614: The jewellery had significance. Green, for example, symbolised fertility. Lapis lazuli and silver had to be imported from beyond the country's borders. Egyptian designs were most common in Phoenician jewellery. Also, ancient Turkish designs found in Persian jewellery suggest that trade between the Middle East and Europe was not uncommon. Women wore elaborate gold and silver pieces that were used in ceremonies. Jewellery of
6900-465: The jewellery market has increased significantly due to several factors. Their typically lower price compared to natural diamonds makes them an appealing choice for many consumers. Additionally, the ethical implications of synthetic diamonds have garnered attention, particularly their potential to eliminate the risks associated with conflict diamonds , which are mined in war zones and often used to finance armed conflict. From an environmental perspective,
7000-530: The late 19th and early 20th centuries, skillfully combining materials like enamel and fine metals, reflecting the same craftsmanship seen in their jewellery collections. These inkwells were not only practical but also artistic in design. Jewellery can symbolise group membership (as in the case, of the Christian crucifix or the Jewish Star of David ) or status (as in the case of chains of office , or
7100-419: The look and color of the real stone but possess neither their chemical nor physical characteristics. In general, all are less hard than diamond. Moissanite actually has a higher refractive index than diamond, and when presented beside an equivalently sized and cut diamond will show more "fire". Cultured, synthetic, or "lab-created" gemstones are not imitations: The bulk mineral and trace coloring elements are
7200-435: The mineral species beryl . Gems are characterized in terms of their color (hue, tone and saturation), optical phenomena, luster, refractive index , birefringence , dispersion , specific gravity , hardness , cleavage , and fracture . They may exhibit pleochroism or double refraction . They may have luminescence and a distinctive absorption spectrum . Gemstones may also be classified in terms of their "water". This
7300-516: The most common on the market currently. Synthetic corundum includes ruby (red variation) and sapphire (other color variations), both of which are considered highly desired and valued. Ruby was the first gemstone to be synthesized by Auguste Verneuil with his development of the flame-fusion process in 1902. Synthetic corundum continues to be made typically by flame-fusion as it is most cost-effective, but can also be produced through flux growth and hydrothermal growth. The most common synthesized beryl
7400-538: The natural stone, but are created in a laboratory. Imitation or simulated stones are chemically different from the natural stone, but may appear quite similar to it; they can be more easily manufactured synthetic gemstones of a different mineral ( spinel ), glass, plastic, resins, or other compounds. Examples of simulated or imitation stones include cubic zirconia , composed of zirconium oxide, synthetic moissanite , and uncolored, synthetic corundum or spinels ; all of which are diamond simulants . The simulants imitate
7500-522: The oldest Mesolithic art in Britain, was found at the site of Star Carr in North Yorkshire in 2015. In southern Russia , carved bracelets made of mammoth tusk have been found. The Venus of Hohle Fels features a perforation at the top, showing that it was intended to be worn as a pendant . Around seven thousand years ago, the first sign of copper jewellery was seen. In October 2012,
7600-602: The oldest known jewellery. The basic forms of jewellery vary between cultures but are often extremely long-lived; in European cultures the most common forms of jewellery listed above have persisted since ancient times, while other forms such as adornments for the nose or ankle, important in other cultures, are much less common. Jewellery may be made from a wide range of materials. Gemstones and similar materials such as amber and coral , precious metals , beads , and shells have been widely used, and enamel has often been important. In most cultures jewellery can be understood as
7700-689: The pre-existing socio-economic disparities and obstructs community development such that the benefits of gemstone extraction may not adequately reach those directly involved in the process. Another such issue revolves around environmental degradation resulting from mining activities. Environmental degradation can pose long-term threats to ecosystems and biodiversity, further worsening the socio-economic state in affected regions. Unregulated mining practices often result in deforestation , soil erosion , and water contamination thus threatening ecosystems and biodiversity . Unregulated mining activity can also cause depletion of natural resources, thus diminishing
7800-804: The prevalence of illicit practices undermine market integrity and trust. The lack of transparency and accountability in the supply chain aggravates pre-existing inequalities, as middlemen and corporations often capture a disproportionate share of the profits. As a result, the unequal distribution of profits along the supply chain does little to improve socio-economic inequalities, particularly in regions where gemstones are mined. Addressing these socio-economic challenges requires intensive effort from various stakeholders, including governments, industry executives, and society, to promote sustainable practices and ensure equitable outcomes for all involved parties. Implementing and enforcing regulations to ensure fair labor practices, environmental sustainability, and ethical sourcing
7900-505: The production of synthetic diamonds generally has a smaller ecological footprint than traditional diamond mining , which can result in extensive land degradation and habitat destruction. While lab-grown diamonds do require energy for their production, many companies are actively adopting renewable energy sources to mitigate their environmental impact. As consumer preferences evolve, particularly among younger generations who prioritize sustainability, synthetic diamonds are increasingly seen as
8000-450: The prospects for sustainable development . The environmental impact of gemstone mining not only poses a threat to ecosystems but also undermines the long-term viability of the industry by diminishing the quality and quantity of available resources. Furthermore, the gemstone industry is also susceptible to issues related to transparency and ethics, which impact both producers and consumers. The lack of standardized certification processes and
8100-507: The quality of the stone. These characteristics include clarity, rarity, freedom from defects, the beauty of the stone, as well as the demand for such stones. There are different pricing influencers for both colored gemstones, and for diamonds. The pricing on colored stones is determined by market supply-and-demand, but diamonds are more intricate. In the addition to the aesthetic and adorning/ornamental purpose of gemstones, there are many proponents of energy medicine who also value gemstones on
8200-531: The same in both. For example, diamonds , rubies , sapphires , and emeralds have been manufactured in labs that possess chemical and physical characteristics identical to the naturally occurring variety. Synthetic (lab created) corundum , including ruby and sapphire, is very common and costs much less than the natural stones. Small synthetic diamonds have been manufactured in large quantities as industrial abrasives , although larger gem-quality synthetic diamonds are becoming available in multiple carats. Whether
8300-426: The same named gemstone can occur in many different colors: sapphires show different shades of blue and pink and "fancy sapphires" exhibit a whole range of other colors from yellow to orange-pink, the latter called " padparadscha sapphire ". This difference in color is based on the atomic structure of the stone. Although the different stones formally have the same chemical composition and structure, they are not exactly
8400-492: The same. Every now and then an atom is replaced by a completely different atom, sometimes as few as one in a million atoms. These so-called impurities are sufficient to absorb certain colors and leave the other colors unaffected. For example, beryl , which is colorless in its pure mineral form, becomes emerald with chromium impurities. If manganese is added instead of chromium , beryl becomes pink morganite . With iron, it becomes aquamarine. Some gemstone treatments make use of
8500-417: The slang term bling-bling , which refers to the ostentatious display of jewellery by men or women. Conversely, the jewellery industry in the early 20th century launched a campaign to popularise wedding rings for men, which caught on, as well as engagement rings for men, which did not, go so far as to create a false history and claim that the practice had medieval roots. By the mid-1940s, 85% of weddings in
8600-482: The smallest type of beads used are known as seed beads , these are the beads used for the "woven" style of beaded jewellery. Seed beads are also used in an embroidery technique where they are sewn onto fabric backings to create broad collar neck pieces and beaded bracelets. Bead embroidery, a popular type of handwork during the Victorian era , is enjoying a renaissance in modern jewellery making. Beading, or beadwork,
8700-404: The stone's color, luster and other surface properties as opposed to internal reflection properties like brilliance. Grinding wheels and polishing agents are used to grind, shape, and polish the smooth dome shape of the stones. Gems that are transparent are normally faceted, a method that shows the optical properties of the stone's interior to its best advantage by maximizing reflected light which
8800-524: The synthetic stone. Synthetics are made free of common naturally occurring impurities that reduce gem clarity or color unless intentionally added in order to provide a more drab, natural appearance, or to deceive an assayer. On the other hand, synthetics often show flaws not seen in natural stones, such as minute particles of corroded metal from lab trays used during synthesis. Some gemstones are more difficult to synthesize than others and not all stones are commercially viable to attempt to synthesize. These are
8900-584: The trade and manufacture of jewellery have also been unearthed throughout Mesopotamian archaeological sites. One record in the Mari royal archives, for example, gives the composition of various items of jewellery: The Greeks started using gold and gems in jewellery in 1600 BC, although beads shaped as shells and animals were produced widely in earlier times. Around 1500 BC, the main techniques of working gold in Greece included casting, twisting bars, and making wire. Many of these sophisticated techniques were popular in
9000-419: The type and extent of treatment, they can affect the value of the stone. Some treatments are used widely because the resulting gem is stable, while others are not accepted most commonly because the gem color is unstable and may revert to the original tone. Before the innovation of modern-day tools, thousands of years ago, people were recorded to use a variety of techniques to treat and enhance gemstones. Some of
9100-461: The world, the industry of coloured gemstones (i.e. anything other than diamonds) is currently estimated at US$ 1.55 billion as of 2023 and is projected to steadily increase to a value of US$ 4.46 billion by 2033. A gem expert is a gemologist , a gem maker is called a lapidarist or gemcutter ; a diamond cutter is called a diamantaire . The traditional classification in the West, which goes back to
9200-589: Was anglicised from the Old French " jouel ", and beyond that, to the Latin word " jocale ", meaning plaything. In British English , Indian English , New Zealand English , Hiberno-English , Australian English , and South African English it is spelled jewellery. At the same time, the spelling is jewelry in American English . Both are used in Canadian English . However jewellery prevails by
9300-520: Was actually created not by modern humans ( Homo sapiens ) but by Neanderthal living in Europe. Specifically, perforated beads made from small sea shells have been found dating to 115,000 years ago in the Cueva de los Aviones, a cave along the southeast coast of Spain. Later in Kenya, at Enkapune Ya Muto , beads made from perforated ostrich egg shells have been dated to more than 40,000 years ago. In Russia,
9400-465: Was also based on the rank of the citizens of that time. Cultural dictates have also played a significant role. For example, the wearing of earrings by Western men was considered effeminate in the 19th century and early 20th century. More recently, the display of body jewellery, such as piercings , has become a mark of acceptance or seen as a badge of courage within some groups but is completely rejected in others. Likewise, hip hop culture has popularised
9500-484: Was around 3,000–5,000 years ago. The Egyptians preferred the luxury, rarity, and workability of gold over other metals. In Predynastic Egypt jewellery soon began to symbolise political and religious power in the community. Although it was worn by wealthy Egyptians in life, it was also worn by them in death, with jewellery commonly placed among grave goods . In conjunction with gold jewellery, Egyptians used coloured glass , along with semi-precious gems. The colour of
9600-400: Was designed in 1954 by Fattorini and Sons of hallmarked sterling silver finished in polished hard gold plate and vitreous enamelled in three colours. The family became heavily involved with Manningham Rugby Club in Bradford . Indeed, Tony Fattorini represented Manningham when the club became part of the breakaway from Rugby Union in 1895 which resulted in the birth of what we know today as
9700-441: Was hardly worn and was mostly used for public appearances or on special occasions. It was frequently given as a gift and was predominantly worn by women to show their wealth, social status, and beauty. The jewellery was often supposed to give the wearer protection from the " evil eye " or endowed the owner with supernatural powers , while others had a religious symbolism. Older pieces of jewellery that have been found were dedicated to
9800-457: Was set with large numbers of brightly coloured stones (chiefly agate, lapis, carnelian, and jasper). Favoured shapes included leaves, spirals, cones, and bunches of grapes. Jewellers created works both for human use and for adorning statues and idols. They employed a wide variety of sophisticated metalworking techniques, such as cloisonné , engraving , fine granulation , and filigree . Extensive and meticulously maintained records pertaining to
9900-491: Was the hammered sheet type. Sheets of metal would be hammered to thickness and then soldered together. The inside of the two sheets would be filled with wax or another liquid to preserve the metal work. Different techniques, such as using a stamp or engraving, were then used to create motifs on the jewellery. Jewels may then be added to hollows or glass poured into special cavities on the surface. The Greeks took much of their designs from outer origins, such as Asia, when Alexander
10000-465: Was usually made of silver and includes elaborate brooches made of triangular plates and pins ( fibula ), originally used as clasps for garments, but also necklaces, bracelets, earrings and similar items. Another major type is the so-called khmissa (local pronunciation of the Arabic word "khamsa" for the number "five"), which is called afus in the Berber language ( Tamazight) . This form represents
#233766