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48-528: Kashiwabara-juku was located on the ancient Tōsandō highway connecting the capital of Heian-kyō with the provinces of eastern Japan, and near the border of Ōmi Province with Mino Province . A post station was first established in the Kashiwabara-juku area in 646. It is mentioned in then medieval chronicle Taiheiki In the early Edo period , the system of post stations on the Nakasendō

96-487: A chūnagon became the favored consort of the Crown Prince Ate (later known as Heizei -tennō ), her father's power and position in court was affected. Kammu disapproved of Fujiwara no Kusuko , daughter of Fujiwara no Tanetsugu ; and Kammu had her removed from his son's household. Emperor Kammu's Imperial family included 36 children. In 2001, Japan's emperor Akihito told reporters "I, on my part, feel

144-583: A certain kinship with Korea", given the fact that it is recorded in the Chronicles of Japan that the Emperor Kammu's (737-803) mother was one of the descendant of King Muryong of Baekje (462–523). It was the first time that a Japanese emperor publicly referred to any Korean ancestry in the imperial line. According to the Shoku Nihongi , Emperor Kammu's mother, Takano no Niigasa (720–90),

192-462: A coup d'état in 782, but it failed and Kawatsugu and his mother were sent into exile. In 785 Sawara was expelled and died in exile. The Nara period saw the appointment of the first shōgun , Ōtomo no Otomaro by Emperor Kammu in 794 CE. The shōgun was the military dictator of Japan with near absolute power over territories via the military. Otomaro was declared "Sei-i Taishōgun" which means "Barbarian-subduing Great General". Emperor Kammu granted

240-676: A further surname expansion) the Hōjō clan . The waka poet Ariwara no Narihira was one of his grandsons. Kammu is traditionally venerated at his tomb; the Imperial Household Agency designates Kashiwabara no Misasagi ( 柏原陵 , Kashiwabara Imperial Mausoleum) , in Fushimi-ku, Kyoto , as the location of Kammu's mausoleum . Kammu was an active emperor who attempted to consolidate government hierarchies and functions. Kammu appointed Sakanoue no Tamuramaro (758–811) to lead

288-486: A local speciality into the modern period. Per the 1843 "中山道宿村大概帳" ( Nakasendō Shukuson Taigaichō ) guidebook issued by the Inspector of Highways ( 道中奉行 , Dōchu-būgyō ) , the town had a population of 1468 people in 344 houses, including one honjin , one waki-honjin, and 22 hatago . It also extended for approximately 1.5 km (0.9 mi) along the highway, making it one of the larger post stations along

336-454: A military expedition against the Emishi . The years of Kammu's reign are more specifically identified by more than one era name ( nengō ). Earlier Imperial sponsorship of Buddhism , beginning with Prince Shōtoku (574–622), had led to a general politicization of the clergy, along with an increase in intrigue and corruption. In 784 Kammu shifted his capital from Nara to Nagaoka-kyō in

384-409: A move that was said to be designed to encumber the powerful Nara Buddhist establishments out of state politics—while the capital moved, the major Buddhist temples, and their officials, stayed put. Indeed, there was a steady stream of edicts issued from 771 right through the period of Kūkai's studies which, for instance, sought to limit the number of Buddhist priests, and the building of temples. However,

432-531: A preeminent commander, Tamura Maro. Politically Kammu shored up his rule by changing the syllabus of the university. Confucian ideology still provided the raison d'être for the Imperial government. In 784 Kammu authorised the teaching of a new course based on the Spring and Autumn Annals based on two newly imported commentaries: Kung-yang and Ku-liang . These commentaries used political rhetoric to promote

480-630: A rectangle measuring 4.5 km from east to west and 5.2 km from north to south. The city layout followed Heijō-kyō (Japan's capital during the Nara period ) with the Imperial palace, Daidairi , placed in the center of the northern city limits and the Suzaku Avenue (Suzaku-ōji), the main thoroughfare extending from the palace down through the center of the city, dividing it into the Right ( Ukyō ) and Left Capitals ( Sakyō ) (the eastern side being

528-512: A source of mugwort. A very short distance from Kashiwabara-juku is the temple of Tokugen-in , which is the bodaiji of the Kyōgoku clan who ruled much of Ōmi Province in the Sengoku period . The clan's cemetery is a National Historic Site in 1936. The grave of late Kamakura period imperial loyalist Kitabatake Tomoyuki is likewise a National Historic Site and is on the mountain to the south of

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576-541: A state in which the Emperor, as "Son of Heaven," should extend his sphere of influence to barbarous lands, thereby gladdening the people. In 798 the two commentaries became required reading at the government university. Kammu also sponsored the travels of the monks Saichō and Kūkai to China , from where they returned to found the Japanese branches of, respectively, Tendai and Shingon Buddhism . Kugyō ( 公卿 )

624-513: Is a collective term for the very few most powerful men attached to the court of the Emperor of Japan in pre- Meiji eras. In general, this elite group included only three to four men at a time. These were hereditary courtiers whose experience and background would have brought them to the pinnacle of a life's career. During Kammu's reign, this apex of the Daijō-kan included: When the daughter of

672-426: Is a large paper-mâché statue of Fukusuke , a folk hero who brings good fortune to merchants. Similarly, on then left of the composition is a statue of Kintarō , another figure from Japanese folklore , who is somewhat pugnaciously overlooking two seated travelers in front of a Japanese garden . Heian-ky%C5%8D Heian-kyō ( 平安京 , lit. "peaceful/tranquil capital") was one of several former names for

720-613: The Left and the western side being the Right from the emperor's viewpoint.) The design followed Sui and Tang dynasty Changan with the exception that Heian-kyō had no city walls. It is thought that the site for the city was selected according to the principles of Shijinsōō ( 四神相応 , "Four Gods Suitability") based on Chinese Feng shui and relating to the Four Symbols of Chinese astrology. The boundaries of Heian-kyō were smaller than those of modern Kyoto, with Ichijō-ōji ( 一条大路 ) at

768-525: The Nakasendō. Kashiwabara-juku is 450 kilometers from Edo. In 1996, a study was conducted which showed that over one-fifth of the structures in the Kashiwabara-juku area were built in the either the Edo or Meiji periods. Some have been renovated, but many are in poor condition. The Kameya shop shown in the Hiroshige print still exists, but under the name of "Ibuki-do", which refers to the nearby Mount Ibuki ,

816-411: The authority of the Emperor and led to proliferation of private armies. Then in 794 Kammu suddenly shifted the capital again, this time to Heian-kyō, which is modern day Kyoto . The new capital was started early the previous year, but the change was abrupt and led to even more confusion amongst the populace. Kammu's rule witnessed the frontiers of Japan expanding into Izawa and Shiba, under the command of

864-547: The capital from Heijō-kyō. It is thought that he wished to build a new, Emperor Tenji faction capital far from Yamato Province which was the power base for the temples and aristocrats who supported the Emperor Tenmu faction. However, only 9 years later in January 793 AD, Emperor Kammu assembled his retainers and announced another relocation of the capital (for the reason see the entry on Nagaoka-kyō .) The location for

912-645: The capital in Heian-kyō would be best for the stability of the country and resisted this movement, naming Heian-kyō "The Eternal City" ( 万代宮 , "Yorozuyo no Miya" ) . The land of the Right Capital overlapped the wetlands formed by the Katsura River and even by the 9th century little progress had been made in developing the area. By the 10th century when the Ritsuryō system was almost at an end,

960-634: The city is thought to have been modelled after the urban planning for the Tang dynasty Chinese capital of Chang'an (modern-day Xi'an ). It remained the chief political center until 1185, when the samurai Minamoto clan defeated the Taira clan in the Genpei War , moving administration of national affairs to Kamakura and establishing the Kamakura shogunate . Though political power would be wielded by

1008-534: The city now known as Kyoto . It was the official capital of Japan for over one thousand years, from 794 to 1868 with an interruption in 1180. Emperor Kanmu established it as the capital in 794, moving the Imperial Court there from nearby Nagaoka-kyō at the recommendation of his advisor Wake no Kiyomaro and marking the beginning of the Heian period of Japanese history. According to modern scholarship,

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1056-517: The country." It is thought that the construction of Heian-kyō began from the palace, with the construction of the remainder of the city following afterwards. As a display of the emperor's authority the Daigokuden (main building of the palace) was constructed at the far north of the central thoroughfare, Suzaku-oji, making the building visible from anywhere in the city. Ports such as Yodonotsu ( 淀津 , now Yodo ) and Ōitsu ( 大井津 ) were set up along

1104-642: The direction of the Emperor Meiji, the imperial residences have been preserved and the takamikura ( 高御座 ) —a special throne whose location traditionally marked the seat of the emperor—remains at the palace in Kyoto. The green areas in the diagram are markets, temples and a garden. There were two large markets, West Market ( 西市 ) and East Market ( 東市 ) , facing the seventh street, Shichijō -ōji ( 七条大路 ) . Tō-ji ( 東寺 , "East Temple") and Sai-ji ( 西寺 , "West Temple") were Buddhist temples built on

1152-517: The district had become so dilapidated that it began to be used as farmland, something which had previously been forbidden within the city limits. With the exception of an area in the north of the Right Capital near to the palace, the residential areas which housed the aristocracy were all situated in the Left Capital, with the highest echelon of aristocrats such as the Fujiwara clan gathering in

1200-409: The flooding which had plagued the residents of Nagaoka-kyō. Although there was no natural river in the center of Heian-kyō, two artificial canals (the present day Horikawa and Nishi Horikawa) were dug whose water level could be adjusted, simultaneously securing a supply of water and guarding against flooding. Similar to the previous capital of Nagaoka-kyō, the construction of Buddhist temples in Heian-kyō

1248-572: The kanji: Below is a 1696 map of Kyoto, known as Genroku 9 Kyoto Daizu ( 元禄九年京都大絵図 ) Archived 2016-10-08 at the Wayback Machine held by the International Research Center for Japanese Studies (Nichibunken) . 35°00′N 135°46′E  /  35.000°N 135.767°E  / 35.000; 135.767 Emperor Kanmu Emperor Kanmu ( 桓武天皇 , Kammu-tennō , 735 – 9 April 806) , or Kammu ,

1296-404: The minor streets was 4 Jō ( 丈 , about 12m) and for the major streets over 8 Jō ( 丈 , about 24m) . Almost all of the streets in present-day Kyoto have become considerably narrower. Suzaku-ōji for example was 28 Jō ( 丈 , about 84m) wide. In addition a river ran alongside Horikawa-koji ( 堀川小路 ) and Nishi Horikawa-koji ( 西堀川小路 ) . In 784 AD emperor Kammu constructed Nagaoka-kyō , moving

1344-410: The move was to prove disastrous and was followed by a series of natural disasters including the flooding of half the city. In 785 the principal architect of the new capital, and royal favourite, Fujiwara no Tanetsugu , was assassinated. Meanwhile, Kammu's armies were pushing back the boundaries of his empire. This led to an uprising, and in 789 a substantial defeat for Kammu's troops. Also in 789 there

1392-746: The new capital was to be Kadono located between two rivers in the north of Yamashiro, ten kilometers to the northeast of Nagaoka-kyō. It is said that the Emperor Kammu had previously looked out on Kadono from the Shōgun Tsuka in Higashiyama Ward of Kyoto City, deciding then that it was a suitable location for the capital. Emperor Kammu's words are recorded in the Nihon Kiryaku as follows: "Kadono has beautiful mountains and rivers as well as good transport links by sea and land making it convenient for people to assemble there from all four corners of

1440-406: The northern limit corresponding to present-day Ichijō-dōri ( 一条通 ) , between Imadegawa-dōri ( 今出川通 ) and Marutamachi-dōri ( 丸太町通 ) , Kyūjō-ōji in the south corresponding to Kujō-dōri ( 九条通 ) slightly to the south of the present-day JR Kyōto Station and Higashi-kyōgoku-ōji in the east corresponding to present-day Teramachi Street (Teramachi-dōri). The location of Nishi-kyōgoku-ōji at

1488-524: The northernmost part of the district. The poor of Heian-kyō began to set up home by the Kamo River , beyond the eastern limits of the city, and on the eastern banks of the river temples and country homes sprung up. So started a tendency for the city to extend out to the east. In 980 AD, at the southern tip of Suzaku-oji the Rajōmon (the grandest of the two city gates) collapsed never to be rebuilt. In this way

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1536-640: The original borders of Heian-kyō extended out to the east, forming the streets of first medieval and then modern-day Kyoto. With the advent of the Kanto centered Kamakura and Edo shogunates , Heian-kyō began to lose its significance as a seat of power. The greatest decline was during the Muromachi and Sengoku periods when almost half the city was burnt to the ground during the Ōnin war . After this Heian-kyō separated into upper ( Kamigyō ) and lower ( Shimogyō ) cities each becoming places of little note. However,

1584-527: The river next to the city. These ports acted as a transit base for collecting in goods from all over the country and for forwarding them on to the city. The goods which arrived in Heian-kyō reached the people by way of one of the two large markets (the East market and the West market.) This arrangement provided a stable supply of food and goods which encouraged population growth. Measures were also taken to guard against

1632-530: The samurai class over the course of three different shogunates , Heian-kyō remained the site of the Imperial Court and seat of Imperial power, and was thus the official capital. Heian-kyō was built in what is now the central part of Kyoto city covering an area spanning the Kadono ( 葛野郡 , Kadono-gun ) and Otagi Districts ( 愛宕郡 , Otagi-gun ) of Yamashiro Province . The city boundaries formed

1680-473: The second kanji character of Yamashiro from 背 ("back") to 城 ("castle") because the capital looked like a naturally formed "mountain castle" surrounded by the Eastern (Higashiyama), Northern (Kitayama), and Western (Nishiyama) mountains. A movement in favor of returning the capital to Heijō-kyō arose in 810 AD, during a standoff over the emperor's succession. However, Emperor Saga thought that keeping

1728-595: The second title of shōgun to Sakanoue no Tamuramaro for subduing the Emishi in northern Honshu . Kammu had 16 empresses and consorts, and 32 imperial sons and daughters. Among them, three sons would eventually ascend to the imperial throne: Emperor Heizei , Emperor Saga and Emperor Junna . Some of his descendants (known as the Kammu Taira or Kammu Heishi ) took the Taira hereditary clan title, and in later generations became prominent warriors. Examples include Taira no Masakado , Taira no Kiyomori , and (with

1776-535: The southern edge of the capital. An imperial garden called Shinsenen ( ja:神泉苑 ) was adjacent to the Daidairi. Note that there were more paths cut short by residences straddling multiple blocks. [REDACTED] In English (major streets and palace only): [REDACTED] The gates of the Daidairi are marked in Japanese Kanji in the above grid, below are the romanization of said gate names alongside

1824-462: The temple. The Kashiwabara-juku History Museum is located in the middle of the post station and occupies the house of the Matsuura family, who made a fortune related to dyes. Utagawa Hiroshige 's ukiyo-e print of Kashiwabara-juku dates from 1835 -1838. The print depicts the post station at dusk. Two kago (palanquin) with their bearers are in front of an open-fronted shop called "Kameya", which

1872-574: The two were to be reunited into one city during the Azuchi–Momoyama period following the ascension of Oda Nobunaga . During the Meiji Revolution , Edo was re-christened Tokyo (becoming the new capital of Japan). Although Heian-kyō lost its status as capital city, it became a backup capital while the emperor was away in Tokyo. Since that time the emperor has not returned to Kyoto. However, at

1920-577: The western limit is estimated as a line running north to south from Hanazono Station on the JR San'in Main Line to Nishi-Kyōgoku Station on the Hankyu Kyoto Line . The layout of Heian-kyō was plotted in accordance with the principles of geomancy as a square city. Jō ( 丈 , about 3.03m) was the basic unit of measurement. 40 sq. jō made a chō ( 町 , 121.2 meters on each side) . The city

1968-473: Was Kammu who was later named to succeed their father. After Inoe and Prince Osabe were confined and then died in 775, Osabe's sister – Kammu's half-sister Princess Sakahito – became Kammu's wife. Later, when he ascended to the throne in 781, Kammu appointed his young brother, Prince Sawara , whose mother was Takano no Niigasa, as crown prince. Hikami no Kawatsugu, a son of Emperor Tenmu 's grandson Prince Shioyaki and Shōmu's daughter Fuwa, attempted to carry out

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2016-409: Was a severe drought and famine—the streets of the capital were clogged with the sick, and people avoiding being drafted into the military, or into forced labour. Many disguised themselves as Buddhist priests for the same reason. Consequently, in 792 Kammu abolished national conscription, replacing it with a system wherein each province formed a militia from the local gentry, however this system vitiated

2064-445: Was born prior to Shirakabe's ascension to the throne. According to the Shoku Nihongi ( 続日本紀 ) , Yamabe's mother, Yamato no Niigasa (later called Takano no Niigasa ), was a 10th generation descendant of Muryeong of Baekje (462–523). After his father became emperor, Kammu's half-brother, Prince Osabe was appointed to the rank of crown prince . His mother was Princess Inoe , a daughter of Emperor Shōmu ; but instead of Osabe, it

2112-432: Was famous for its medicinal herbs and mugwort products, however, signs indicate that it also served sake , rice cakes and other refreshments. A pair of travelers is depicted inside the shop itself, seated on the edge of the raised floor, while a shopkeeper introduces packets of herbal medicines. To the right, another traveler approaches the seated shop owner, who is seated next to a figure with an absurdly oversized head. This

2160-682: Was formalized by the Tokugawa shogunate in 1602, and it was a stopping place for traveling merchants ( Ōmi shōnin ( 近江商人 ) ) who originated from Ōmi Province. It was also on the sankin-kōtai route used by various western daimyō to-and-from the Shogun's court in Edo . The area was known for its production of mugwort , which was used both as an ingredient in various dishes, but was also in great demand for medicinal purposes, particularly moxibustion . At one point, there were over ten shops that specialized in mugwort products, and this continues to be

2208-512: Was formally forbidden, with the sole exception of the East and West temples, with the thought that their power might protect the city from natural disaster and disease, and priests such as Kūkai were welcomed, being able men, well versed in Buddhist scripture and with no interest in political power. On 22 October 794 AD, Emperor Kammu arrived at the new city and on 8 November proclaimed, "I hereby name this city Heian-kyō." On 8 November, he changed

2256-504: Was further divided by major streets called ōji ( 大路 ) and minor streets called koji ( 小路 ) . Four lines of chō running east to west (excepting the first 2 rows in the north) were together called a jō ( 条 ) and four lines of chō running from north to south were called a bō ( 坊 ) The Cho which shared the same Jo and Bo were each given a number from 1 to 16. In this way addresses could be identified as follows: "Right Capital, Jō Five, Bō Two, Chō Fourteen" ( 右京五条二坊十四町 ) . The width of even

2304-416: Was the 50th emperor of Japan , according to the traditional order of succession . Kammu reigned from 781 to 806, and it was during his reign that the scope of the emperor's powers reached its peak. His reign saw the transition from the Nara period to the Heian period . Kammu's personal name ( imina ) was Yamabe ( 山部 ) . He was the eldest son of Prince Shirakabe (later known as Emperor Kōnin ), and

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