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Lacandon Jungle

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The Lacandon Jungle ( Spanish : Selva Lacandona ) is an area of rainforest which stretches from Chiapas, Mexico , into Guatemala . The heart of this rainforest is located in the Montes Azules Biosphere Reserve in Chiapas near the border with Guatemala in the Montañas del Oriente region of the state. Although much of the jungle outside the reserve has been cleared, the Lacandon is still one of the largest montane rainforests in Mexico . It contains 1,500 tree species, 33% of all Mexican bird species, 25% of all Mexican animal species, 56% of all Mexican diurnal butterflies and 16% of all Mexico's fish species.

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118-619: The Lacandon in Chiapas is also home to a number of important Mayan archaeological sites including Palenque , Yaxchilan and Bonampak , with numerous smaller sites which remain partially or fully unexcavated. This rainforest, especially the area inside the Biosphere Reserve, is a source of political tension, pitting the EZLN or Zapatistas and their indigenous allies who want to farm the land against international environmental groups and

236-439: A xikul . Some Lacandon still wear traditional clothing but others use modern clothes and conveniences as well. Traditional Lacandon shelters are huts made with fronds and wood with an earthen floor, but this has mostly given way to modern structures. The Lacandon Maya have supported themselves for centuries practicing slash-and-burn agriculture called milpa , which can be seen as a method of " swidden agroforestry ". A part of

354-647: A U.S. funded program into indigenous herbal cures cancelled. In the same year, a venture between the Mexican government and the U.S. firm Diversa was cancelled as well due to public pressure, causing the Mexican attorney general to state that the agreement with the national university UNAM was invalid. Rock formations with oil deposits have been found around the Lacandon area in both Mexico and Guatemala. There has been some exploration and pumping, and known reserves are largely depleted, however it seems likely that there

472-588: A complex of several connected and adjacent buildings and courtyards, was built by several generations on a wide artificial terrace during four century period. The Palace was used by the Mayan aristocracy for bureaucratic functions, entertainment, and ritualistic ceremonies. The Palace is located in the center of the ancient city. Within the Palace there are numerous sculptures and bas-relief carvings that have been conserved. The Palace most unusual and recognizable feature

590-519: A couple of harvests before the soil is depleted. The Zapatistas have accused environmentalists of siding with the government and corporate interests, and the Lacandons are too small in number to challenge the other groups, despite being the legal owners of much of the reserve. There were some attempts to evict settlers from the Reserve, especially from the thirty two undocumented settlements, but this

708-522: A dozen villages. There has been a large amount of deforestation in the Lacandon forest in Mexico. In 1990, a World Bank study declared that the following decade would make or break the Lacandon Selva's chances for survival as the rainforest had been "reduced to the minimum size essential for the integrity of its ecosystem". Most of the remaining primary forest is within the protected areas . Of

826-538: A few of the bas-relief figures and sculptures. Draughtsman Luciano Castañeda made more drawings in 1807, and a book on Palenque, Descriptions of the Ruins of an Ancient City, discovered near Palenque , was published in London in 1822 based on the reports of those last two expeditions together with engravings based on Bernasconi and Castañedas drawings; two more publications in 1834 contained descriptions and drawings based on

944-638: A first payment, brought personally by the state's governor, Juan Sabines Guerrero . The agreement calls for monthly payments as well as assistance in creating tourism opportunities and groves of oil palms on non-reserve lands. There are some researchers collecting plants in the reserve. One of these is a station run by Conservation International to map the flora and fauna of Montes Azules. Mexican agribusiness enterprise Grupo Pulsar also has research stations in Chiapas. Researchers are often looked upon with suspicion and considered to be thieves by many in indigenous communities. Zapatistas have raised concerns that

1062-725: A good distance from the center of the site, a court for playing the Mesoamerican ballgame , and an interesting stone bridge over the Otulum River some distance below the Aqueduct. After de la Nada's brief account of the ruins, no attention was paid to them until 1773 when one Don Ramon de Ordoñez y Aguilar examined Palenque and sent a report to the Capitan General in Antigua Guatemala , a further examination

1180-497: A large diversity of plant species. Despite the fact that much of the area has been reduced to a patchwork of clearings for cattle ranches and peasant communities, the Lacandon contains some of the most extensive and best preserved remnants of lower montane rainforest in Mexico and Central America . The best conserved area is within the Montes Azules Biosphere Reserve, which has about 290,000 hectares of

1298-427: A military feat without known precedents. These events took place in 599. A second victory by Calakmul occurred some twelve years later, in 611, under the government of Aj Ne' Yohl Mat , son of Yohl Iknal. In this occasion, the king of Calakmul entered Palenque in person, consolidating a significant military disaster, which was followed by an epoch of political disorder. Aj Ne' Yohl Mat was to die in 612. Bʼaakal began

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1416-539: A million hectares of these lands, but since the early 20th century other people, mostly Maya from other areas of Chiapas, have begun to colonise the forest. This has altered their lifestyle and worldview. Today the Lacandon Maya are primarily found in three villages called Naja , Lacanja Chansayab and Metzobok. near the ruins of Bonampak and Yaxchilan. Local lore states that the gods resided here when they lived on earth. The traditional dress an undyed tunic called

1534-460: A poorer family. Hunters almost never sell the meat, it is used for personal or familial subsistence. Sometimes tourists or military men stationed in the area will buy objects such as claws, hides, talons, macaw feathers, etc., but this is uncommon; hunters are cognisant of the laws and afraid of fines and having their guns confiscated. Most hunting occurs communal forests in the vicinity of farms, or on farmland, only rarely do some people venture into

1652-544: A pretence to dislodge them from their base of support and the turn over the Lacandon to corporate exploitation as the area is rich in timber, oil, hydroelectric and genetic resources. The EZLN , commonly known as the Zapatistas, came to the forefront of Chiapas politics in the mid 1990s. Since then, their bases of support have mostly come from indigenous communities in the settled areas of the Lacandon Jungle and

1770-521: A result of rapid deforestation. Other areas include the Tropical Andes, Philippines, Mesoamerica, and Sundaland, which, under the current levels at which deforestation is occurring, will likely lose most of their plant and vertebrate species. Only a small percentage of the total land area within biodiversity hotspots is now protected. Several international organizations are working to conserve biodiversity hotspots. Most biodiversity exists within

1888-424: A set of graceful temples atop step pyramids , each with an elaborately carved relief in the inner chamber depicting two figures presenting ritual objects and effigies to a central icon. Earlier interpretations had argued that the smaller figure was that of Kʼinich Janaabʼ Pakal while the larger figure was Kʼinich Kan Bʼahlam. However, it is now known based on a better understanding of the iconography and epigraphy that

2006-535: A suit made of jade adorned his body, with each piece hand-carved and held together by gold wire. Furthermore, Kʼinich Kan Bʼalam I began ambitious projects, including the Group of the Crosses. Thanks to numerous works begun during his government, now we have portraits of this king, found in various sculptures. His brother succeeded him continuing construction and art with the same enthusiasm, reconstructing and enlarging

2124-414: A tablet was found describing a ritual for the king. The first tablet mentioned his successor Ahkal Moʼ Naab I as a teenage prince, and therefore it is believed that there was a family relation between them. For unknown reasons, Akhal Moʼ Naab I had great prestige, so the kings who succeeded him were proud to be his descendants. When Ahkal Moʼ Naab I died in 524, there was an interregnum of four years, before

2242-518: A threat to indigenous people in the state. They and certain NGOs such as Maderas del Pueblo de Sureste oppose programs such as Reducing emissions from deforestation and forest degradation (REDD), claiming it commodifies indigenous culture, giving a commercial value to it vis-à-vis the environment. One aspect of the REDD program is to pay local ejido or other communal land owners to keep parts of their lands in

2360-477: A wild state and/or participate in reforestation of them. In 2011, over 600 communal farmers from Frontera Corozal , a Ch'ol town on the border with Guatemala entered into an agreement with the government to grow forests on their lands in exchange for payment under the REDD+ plan. The communal land owners created seven reserves on their lands. In exchange, each member of the communal organization received 2,000 pesos as

2478-535: Is a short dry season from March to May when as little as 30 millimetres (1.2 in) falls. The average annual temperature is 24.7 °C (76.5 °F). The abundance of rain supports a large number of small rivers and streams many of which are fast moving and have waterfalls, such as the Agua Azul and the Lacanja waterfalls. The soils of the area are mostly clay and lacking phosphorus but sufficient to support

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2596-578: Is also one of the best-known Maya Ajaw , Kʼinich Janaabʼ Pakal (Pacal the Great), who ruled from 615 to 683. He is known through his funerary monument dubbed the Temple of the Inscriptions , after the lengthy text preserved in the temple's superstructure. At the time Alberto Ruz Lhuillier excavated Pakal's tomb, it was the richest and best preserved of any scientifically excavated burial then known from

2714-432: Is believed that after the death of Aj Ne' Yohl Mat, Janaab Pakal , also called Pakal I, took power thanks to a political agreement. Janaab Pakal assumed the functions of the ajaw (king) but never was crowned. He was succeeded in 612 by his daughter, the queen Sak Kʼukʼ , who governed for only three years until her son was old enough to rule. It is considered that the dynasty was reestablished from then on, so Bʼaakal retook

2832-633: Is especially true for those "hotspots" located in remote trans-border tropical forests. There are two major attractions in the Chiapas portion of this rainforest, the El Chiflón Waterfall and the Gruta de San Francisco cave. El Chiflón is located 53 kilometres (33 mi) west of Comitán de Domínguez formed by the San Vicente Rivers. The water falls from a height of over seventy meters surrounded by steeply sloped hills. El Chiflón

2950-475: Is far more. Some of the rock formations in Zapatista-held areas of the forest show great promise as a potential field according to US accountants, but many geologists and the Mexican government have insisted there is little promise of oil in these areas. The Zapatistas claim that the government is hiding the presence of oil in the area as they try to force them and the indigenous people who support them off

3068-561: Is preceded by two smaller falls called Suspiro and Ala del Angel, which are about six meters in height. A cascade after it is called the Velo de Novia. The Gruta de San Francisco is located in the La Trinitaria municipality near the community of Santa María. The cave has a number of chambers filled with stalactites and stalagmites with capricious shapes, formed by the dripping of water through the cavity. These caves were considered sacred in

3186-480: Is recognized by the UN Environment Program for its global biological and cultural significance. Its management plan endeavors to strike a balance between habitat conservation and the demand for research into its vast genetic resources. In 1992 the 61,874-hectare Lacan-Tun Biosphere Reserve was designated, adjoining the original biosphere reserve to the east. Other Mexican protected areas in

3304-431: Is the four-story tower known as The Observation Tower. The Observation Tower like many other buildings at the site exhibit a mansard -like roof. The A-shaped corbel arch is an architectural motif observed throughout the complex. The Corbel arches require a large amount of masonry mass and are limited to a small dimensional ratio of width to height providing the characteristic high ceilings and narrow passageways. The Palace

3422-510: Is threatened by human habitation. Norman Myers wrote about the concept in two articles in The Environmentalist in 1988 and 1990, after which the concept was revised following thorough analysis by Myers and others into "Hotspots: Earth's Biologically Richest and Most Endangered Terrestrial Ecoregions" and a paper published in the journal Nature , both in 2000. To qualify as a biodiversity hotspot on Myers' 2000 edition of

3540-602: The Lacandon Maya , the original indigenous group of the area and the one that holds the title to most of the lands in the Montes Azules. The jungle has approximately 1.9 million hectares stretching from southeast Chiapas into northern Guatemala and into the southern Yucatán Peninsula. The Chiapas portion is located on the Montañas del Oriente (Eastern Mountains) centered on a series of canyonlike valleys called

3658-604: The Spanish conquest , the Xocmo were a Cholan-speaking group; they occupied the remote forest somewhere to the east of the Lacandon. The Xocmo were never conquered and escaped repeated Spanish attempts to locate them; their eventual fate is unknown but they may be ancestors of the modern Lacandon people. After the fall of the Itza capital Nojpetén to the Spanish invaders in 1697, a mix of Itza, Kejache and Kowoj refugees fled into

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3776-556: The Tzotzil , Tzeltal , Ch'ol , Tojolabal and Lacandon Maya , as well as non-indigenous people. However, except for the Lacandon Maya, almost all of the population has migrated to the Lacandon, especially during the 20th century on. Of the local inhabitants of the Lacandon Jungle, those living just south of Montes Azules Biosphere Reserve belong to three ethnic groups, living in four villages and one town: Lacandon Maya , Tzeltal (another Maya ethnicity) and Mestizo . The Tzeltal are

3894-727: The howler monkeys , and the swamp crocodile. Jaguars are reported from this forest. Its size and biodiversity has designated it as a " biodiversity hotspot " by the Washington, DC, based environmental group Conservation International and under the Puebla-Panama Plan . It is part of the Mesoamerican Biological Corridor , which aims to link similar sites from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec down through Central America for conservation purposes. This

4012-571: The 1520s. Important structures at Palenque include: The Temple of the Inscriptions had begun perhaps as early as 675 as the funerary monument of Hanab-Pakal. The temple superstructure houses the second longest glyphic text known from the Maya world (the longest is the Hieroglyphic Stairway at Copan). The Temple of the Inscriptions records approximately 180 years of the city's history from the 4th through 12th Kʼatun . The focal point of

4130-454: The 17th century and is still being excavated. There is a site museum including photographs of what it looked like before the recent excavations, completely covered in jungle. Tenam Puente is on the west side of the Lacandon near Comitán de Domínguez. The site was initially built on a hill overlooking the area as a fortification. It contains about 160 buildings with thick stone walls with access by ramps which act as buttresses. The main areas in

4248-422: The 1930s, it accelerated in the 1960s and 1970s, as there was high population growth in the highlands areas. The government encouraged people, especially Native Americans, to move to the lowlands and claim lands there. During the 20th century, the population of municipalities in this area, such as Altamirano , Las Margaritas , Ocosingo and Palenque has risen from 11,000 in 1920 to over 376,000 in 2000. Much of

4366-465: The 8th century, Bʼaakal came under increasing stress, in concert with most other Classic Mayan city-states, and there was no new elite construction in the ceremonial center sometime after 800. An agricultural population continued to live here for a few generations, then the site was abandoned and was slowly grown over by the forest. The district was very sparsely populated when the Spanish first arrived in

4484-518: The 8th century. Little is known about this period, except that, among other events, the war with Toniná continued, where there are hieroglyphics that record a new defeat of Palenque. Occasionally city-state lords were women . Lady Sak Kuk ruled at Palenque for at least three years starting in 612 CE, before she passed her title to her son. However, these female rulers were accorded male attributes. They were presented as more masculine, since they had assumed roles that were typically held by men. During

4602-479: The 8th century. The Palenque ruins date from ca. 226 BC to ca. 799 AD. After its decline, it was overgrown by the jungle of cedar , mahogany , and sapodilla trees, but has since been excavated and restored. It is located near the Usumacinta River in the Mexican state of Chiapas , about 130 km (81 mi) south of Ciudad del Carmen , 150 meters (490 ft) above sea level. It is adjacent to

4720-557: The Acropolis, for the ruling elite. About two-thirds of the buildings have been determined to be for government or religious purposes. Religious structures contain a number of stelae and low reliefs of figures with detailed faces. The site is surrounded by the Lagos de Colón or Columbus Lakes. Other ruins include those at Lacanja. The population of the area is mostly subsistence peasants. These include indigenous groups of Chiapas, such as

4838-537: The Cañadas, between smaller mountain ridges oriented from northwest to southeast. It is bordered by the Guatemalan border on two sides with Comitán de Domínguez to the southwest and the city of Palenque to north. Dividing the Chiapas part of the forest from the Guatemalan side is the Usumacinta River , which is the largest river in Mexico and the seventh largest in the world based on volume of water. The core of

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4956-501: The Chiapas forest is the Montes Azules Biosphere Reserve , but it also includes some other protected areas such as Nahá–Metzabok , Bonampak , Yaxchilan , Chan-Kin , Lacan-Tun , and the communal reserve of La Cojolita. The area has a mostly hot and humid climate ( Köppen Amg ) with most rain falling from summer into fall, with an average of 2,300 to 2,600 millimetres (91 to 102 in) per year. There

5074-458: The Lacandon Jungle include: There is a significant difference in vegetation between the reserve areas and the jungle outside of it. However, areas of the reserve have been damaged as it is carved in disconnected patches. In many areas, tapirs , howler monkeys and parrots no longer occur. According to Conservation International , there are 140 peasant settler communities in the Biosphere Reserve and 225 including those in other protected areas in

5192-411: The Lacandon Jungle, where they too became the ancestors of the modern Lacandon people . A study from 2004 focusing on the use of wild fauna by inhabitants of the jungle found that all local ethnic groups hunt. A .22 rifle is the most popular hunting tool. There was rather little differences between hunting practices between different ethnicities, but in terms of meat extracted per hunter, Lacandon were

5310-413: The Lacandon. All but thirty two of these have a certain amount of legal protection as they were registered as ejidos before the Reserve was created. Since the Reserve was created, the thirty two have been in limbo, with some efforts by the government to force them to move with promises of other lands in Chiapas. However, these farmers have resisted with support of the EZLN . EZLN believes the evictions are

5428-449: The Lacandons to work to preserve their land and culture. This has included developing ecotourism with cabins, rafting, horseback riding and more. While there are concerns that ecotourism will make the jungle a commodity and cause changes in Lacandon culture, it also helps to keep younger generations from migrating out of the area. Today, the Lacandon Maya numbers have increased and are estimated to be anywhere from 600 to 1000 people in about

5546-473: The Late Classic period in the throes of the disorder created by the defeats before Calakmul. The glyphic panels at the Temple of the Inscriptions , which records the events at this time, relates that some fundamental annual religious ceremonies were not performed in 613, and at this point states: "Lost is the divine lady, lost is the king." Mentions of the government at the time have not been found. It

5664-420: The Mayan people symbolically shuttered the pool by breaking up some of the plaster and filling it with animal remains, including pottery fragments, carved bone remains, shells, obsidian arrowheads, beads, vegetables, and others. Research inside the temples of Palenque has revealed the presence of numerous extremely well-preserved fossils of marine fish and invertebrates in the limestone slabs used to build

5782-479: The Montes Azules Biosphere Reserve. It evicted some squatters , and granted the tiny group of Lacandones ownership of huge tracts in the reserve. That caused resentment in the other Native American communities, and would be a factor in the Zapatista uprising two decades later. However, even with the establishment of the reserve, the government did not sufficiently protect it, and many squatters made their way onto

5900-585: The Piedras Bolas Aqueduct as a pressurised aqueduct , the earliest known in the New World . It is a spring-fed conduit located on steep terrain that has a restricted outlet that would cause the water to exit forcefully, under pressure, to a height of 6 metres (20 ft). They were unable to identify the use for this man-made feature. In June 2022, archaeologists from the Mexico's National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) announced

6018-797: The Reserve in good condition. The Lacandon is the best known of Mexico's rainforest areas because of the attention it has received in the press and efforts by international organizations to protect what is left of it. The Lacandon is one of the most biodiverse rainforests in the world, with as much as 25% of Mexico's total species diversity. The predominant native vegetation is perennial high rainforest with trees that can grow to an average height of thirty meters and often to fifty or sixty including Guatteria anomala , Ceiba pentandra , Swietenia macrophylla , Terminalia amazonia and Ulmus mexicana . Mammoth guanacaste trees shrouded in vines and bromeliads among clear running streams, enormous ferns, palms and wild elephant's ear plants can still be seen. One of

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6136-451: The ancient Americas. It held this position until the discovery of the rich Moche burials at Sipán , Peru and the recent discoveries at Copán and Calakmul . Beside the attention that Kʼinich Janaab' Pakal's tomb brought to Palenque, the city is historically significant for its extensive hieroglyphic corpus composed during the reigns of Janaabʼ Pakal, his son Kʼinich Kan Bahlam II , and his grandson Kʼinich Akal Moʼ Naabʼ, and for being

6254-456: The area being relatively close to the impact site of the Chixculub meteor , which caused the extinction in the first place. The Mayan residents of the area appear to have been well aware of these fossils and actively collected them, including by using fossil shark teeth and ray spines from the nearby Miocene Tulijá Formation as cutting tools, painting some of the fish skeletons, and cutting

6372-576: The areas around San Cristobal de las Casas. While migration to the Lacandon had been occurring earlier in the 20th century, it accelerated even more in the 1990s, with the Zapatistas encouraging people to seize “unoccupied jungle.” For this reason, the Zapatistas do not have the support of the Lacandon Mayas, who have also feared for their villages’ and people's safety when confronted by the EZLN. The Zapatistas claim that as indigenous farmers, they are

6490-514: The arrival of loggers and chicleros , who tapped certain trees for sap to make chewing gum. By the 1940s, much of the old growth forest had already been destroyed. Illegal logging was still a serious concern in 2002. Twenty one municipalities in Chiapas had significant problems with illegal logging, most of which are in or near the Montes Azules Reserve. While migration of people into the lowland rainforests had been going on since

6608-405: The best protectors of the rainforest, and that they want to turn Montes Azules into an “Indian Farmers’ Reserve”, a patchwork of farms and jungle. This pits them against the Lacandon Maya and environmentalist groups who state that the jungle cannot take any more farming. They also state that the agricultural methods do not help alleviate the migrants’ economic system as they can only farm a plot for

6726-483: The central tablet depicts two images of Kan Bʼahlam. The smaller figure shows Kʼinich Kan Bʼahlam during a rite of passage ritual at the age of six (9.10.8.9.3 9 Akbal 6 Xul) while the larger is of his accession to kingship at the age of 48. These temples were named by early explorers; the cross-like images in two of the reliefs actually depict the tree of creation at the center of the world in Maya mythology . The Palace ,

6844-479: The ceremonial center and on the way to the site museum are smaller buildings around the Otolum stream with a small waterfall. Yaxchilan flourished in the 8th and 9th centuries. The site contains extensive ruins, with palaces and temples bordering a large plaza upon a terrace above the Usumacinta River . The architectural remains extend across the higher terraces and the hills to the south of the river, overlooking both

6962-409: The city, with dates of their reigns: Palenque dynasty: The first ajaw , or king, of Bʼaakal that we know of was Kʼuk Balam ( Quetzal Jaguar ), who governed for four years starting in the year 431. After him, a king came to power, nicknamed " Casper " by archaeologists. The next two kings were probably Casper' s sons. Little was known about the first of these, Bʼutz Aj Sak Chiik, until 1994, when

7080-564: The destruction of the rainforest has occurred through slash and burn farming , which allows for little to no fallow time and creates soil erosion, according to Diemont. The little nutrition there is in the soil is depleted by erosion caused by heavy tropical rainfall after logging and agriculture. As of 2002, it is estimated about two thirds of the Lacandon outside the main biosphere reserve has been converted into pasture or cropland. Once this land has been used for ranching, it will not revert to rainforest quickly after it has been abandoned, because

7198-401: The discovered area covered up to 2.5 km (0.97 sq mi), but it is estimated that less than 10% of the total area of the city is explored, leaving more than a thousand structures still covered by jungle. Palenque received 920,470 visitors in 2017. Mythological beings using a variety of emblem glyphs in their titles suggests a complex early history. For instance, Kʼukʼ Bahlam I ,

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7316-464: The discovery of a 1,300-year-old nine-inch-tall plaster head statue indicating a young Hun Hunahpu , the Maya's mythological maize god. The figure's semi-shaved haircut that resembles ripe corn gives reason to the possibility that it is a young maize god. Researchers assume that the Mayan inhabitants of Palenque possibly placed a large stone statuette over a pond to represent the entrance to the underworld. According to archaeologist Arnoldo González Cruz,

7434-456: The entrance of federal police and army into ejidos such as La Garrucha, San Alejandro and Hermenegildo Galena to search for marijuana fields, claiming that these forces are outside their jurisdiction to do so. However, as late as 2010, illegal settlements, new and old, were being dislodged by police and military forces and moved to areas outside the conservation zones. In 2011, EZLN issued another warning that operations against these settlements pose

7552-554: The fauna, but may also be due to better participation in the market economy by rural people in Mexico, and access to cheaper and better available domestic meat. Species hunted were similar to those hunted in other communities in Latin America, but monkeys were never or rarely hunted. Lacandon once ate monkeys, up until the late 1980s, but Mayan cultural attitudes to game meat in general have shifted, perhaps with greater availability of canned goods and domestic meat. Immigrants from

7670-444: The favorite of the gods, he carried Palenque to new levels of splendor, in spite of having come to power when the city was at a low point. Pakal married the princess of Oktán, Lady Tzakbu Ajaw (also known as Ahpo-Hel) in 624 and had at least three children. Most of the palaces and temples of Palenque were constructed during his government; the city flourished as never before, eclipsing Tikal . The central complex, known as The Palace,

7788-485: The field. Meanwhile, Robertson was conducting a detailed examination of all art at Palenque, including recording all the traces of color on the sculptures. The 1970s also saw a small museum built at the site. In the last 15 or 20 years, a great deal more of the site has been excavated, but currently, archaeologists estimate that only 5% of the total city has been uncovered. In 2010, Pennsylvania State University researchers, Christopher Duffy and Kirk French , identified

7906-511: The first Europeans to make sustained contact with the Lacondons since the Spanish conquest. For the rest of their lives, the Bloms worked to publicize the plight of these people and by the time she died in 1999, Trudy Blom had created a collection of over 55,000 photographs of both the people and the Lacandon Jungle. The couple's efforts, along with those of Lacandon activist Chan Kin, have spurred

8024-545: The following king was crowned at Toktán in 529. Kʼan Joy Chitam I governed for 36 years. His sons Ahkal Moʼ Naab II and Kʼan Bʼalam I were the first kings who used the title Kinich , which means "the great sun ". This word was used also by later kings. Bʼalam was succeeded in 583 by Yohl Ikʼnal , who was supposedly his daughter. The inscriptions found in Palenque document a battle that occurred under her government in which troops from Calakmul invaded and sacked Palenque,

8142-571: The guise of one of the manifestations of the Maya maize god emerging from the maws of the underworld. The temple also has a duct structure that still is not completely understood by archaeologists. It has been suggested that the duct aligns with the winter solstice and that the sun shines down on Pakal's tomb. The Temple of the Cross , Temple of the Sun , and Temple of the Foliated Cross are

8260-465: The hieroglyphic inscriptions on the many monuments; historians now have a long sequence of the ruling dynasty of Palenque in the 5th century and extensive knowledge of the city-state's rivalry with other states such as Calakmul and Toniná . The most famous ruler of Palenque was Kʼinich Janaabʼ Pakal , or Pacal the Great, whose tomb has been found and excavated in the Temple of the Inscriptions . By 2005,

8378-631: The highest part of the site. The site is aligned with relation to the Usumacinta River, at times causing unconventional orientation of the major structures, such as the two ballcourts . The site is relatively natural with howling monkeys, bats, toucans and other wildlife to be seen in and around the buildings. The city of Bonampak features exceptionally well-preserved Maya murals, depicting Mayan clothing, rituals, games, food and other aspects of life from that time. The realistically rendered paintings depict human sacrifices , musicians and scenes of

8496-458: The highlands or elsewhere find monkeys to look too uncomfortably like little people to eat. Paca meat, prized for its taste and fat content, was commonly hunted by all ethnic groups, appearing to be capable of tolerating hunting pressure and habitat disruptions. Ungulates were the most hunted group of animals, with about two thirds of the biomass extracted being from these animals. Tapirs and white-lipped peccaries were becoming rarer according to

8614-627: The hotspot map, a region must meet two strict criteria: it must contain at least 1,500 species of vascular plants (more than 0.5% of the world's total) as endemics , and it has to have lost at least 70% of its primary vegetation. Globally, 36 zones qualify under this definition. These sites support nearly 60% of the world's plant, bird, mammal, reptile, and amphibian species , with a high share of those species as endemics. Some of these hotspots support up to 15,000 endemic plant species, and some have lost up to 95% of their natural habitat. Biodiversity hotspots host their diverse ecosystems on just 2.4% of

8732-482: The hunters, while other animals appeared to be suffering hunting pressure and habitat change without apparent effects on population. The Lacandon are descendants of the ancient Maya. Since the 16th century, they have been able to survive as a culture by living deep in the rainforest, with many communities out of contact with the rest of the world until the 20th century. Before the Conquest , the Lacandon dominated about

8850-660: The infertile ground has previously dissuaded human populations. The conservation of OCBILs within biodiversity hotspots has started to garner attention because current theories believe these sites provide not only high levels of biodiversity, but they have relatively stable lineages and the potential for high levels of speciation in the future. Because these sites are relatively stable, they can be classified as refugia . North and Central America The Caribbean South America Europe Africa Central Asia South Asia Southeast Asia and Asia-Pacific East Asia West Asia The high profile of

8968-416: The inscriptions the phrase ochb'ihaj sak ikʼil (the white breath road-entered) is used to refer to the leaving of the soul. A find such as this is greatly important because it demonstrated for the first time the temple usage as being multifaceted. These pyramids were, for the first time, identified as temples and also funerary structures. The much-discussed iconography of the sarcophagus lid depicts Pakal in

9086-414: The kingship of Bʼaakal, who in turn was succeeded in 702 by his brother Kʼinich Kʼan Joy Chitam II. The first continued the architectural and sculptural works that were begun by his father, as well as finishing the construction of the famous tomb of Pakal. Pakal's sarcophagus, built for a very tall man, held the richest collection of jade seen in a Mayan tomb. A jade mosaic mask was placed over his face, and

9204-500: The lands, after which they can extract without compensation. 16°21′N 91°01′W  /  16.35°N 91.02°W  / 16.35; -91.02 Palenque Palenque ( Spanish pronunciation: [pa'leŋke] ; Yucatec Maya : Bàakʼ [ɓaːkʼ] ), also anciently known in the Itza Language as Lakamha ("big water or big waters"), was a Maya city state in southern Mexico that perished in

9322-493: The lands, creating patchworks of hamlets. In 2002 there were only about twenty forest rangers for the reserve. The Montes Azules Biosphere Reserve was established in 1978 as Mexico's first biosphere reserve. This reserve covers part of the Lacandon Jungle, covering 331,200 hectares, one fifth of the original rainforest in Chiapas. It obtained some finance in 1994 from the Global Environment Facility . It

9440-412: The leaves of wild Chamaedorea palms for the cut flower industry. There are two very small Mestizo hamlets of 500 people in total. These people are also farmers, but they also keep livestock, such as cattle and pigs, for the local market, and grow crops, like coffee and cacao, besides the typical crops. Until the early 18th century, the Lacandon Jungle and bordering areas of Guatemala were occupied by

9558-549: The location where Heinrich Berlin and later Linda Schele and Peter Mathews outlined the first dynastic list for any Maya city. The work of Tatiana Proskouriakoff as well as that of Berlin, Schele, Mathews, and others, initiated the intense historical investigations that characterized much of the scholarship on the ancient Maya from the 1960s to the present. The extensive iconography and textual corpus has also allowed for study of Classic period Maya mythology and ritual practice. A list of possible and known Maya rulers of

9676-473: The modern town of Palenque, Chiapas . It averages a humid 26 °C (79 °F) with roughly 2,160 millimeters (85 in) of rain a year. Palenque is a medium-sized site, smaller than Tikal , Chichen Itza , or Copán , but it contains some of the finest architecture, sculpture, roof comb and bas-relief carvings that the Mayas produced. Much of the history of Palenque has been reconstructed from reading

9794-410: The most common plants is Cynodon plectostachyus , a non-native grass species introduced as a pasture crop for livestock. It has 1,500 tree species, 33% of all Mexican bird species, 25% of all Mexican animal species, 44% of all Mexican diurnal butterflies and 10% of all Mexico's fish species. The jungle contains many endangered species such as the red macaw , the eagle, the tapir , the spider monkey ,

9912-470: The most numerous (15,000) and live in the town of Nueva Palestina  [ es ] , they immigrated into the jungle from the Chiapas highlands in the 1970s to begin farms, often maize, beans or chili peppers, primarily organised in the ejido system. The Lacandon number some 550; they survive from slash-and-burn agriculture, growing much the same crops as the Tzeltal, as well as tourism and collecting

10030-451: The most successful, Mestizo extracted half that, and Tzeltal hunters only took in a tenth of that of Lacandon hunters. Compared in terms of harvest rates, meat extracted per year per km, Mestizo hunted more—this is because they stayed closer to their homes and hunted relatively larger-bodied animals. Mestizo also receive much less governmental support than Native Americans, which is seen as a factor influencing harvest rates. Lacandon people were

10148-503: The narrative records Kʼinich Janaabʼ Pakal's Kʼatun period-ending rituals focused on the icons of the city's patron deities prosaically known collectively as the Palenque Triad or individually as GI, GII, and GIII. The pyramid measures 60 meters wide, 42.5 meters deep and 27.2 meters high. The summit temple measures 25.5 meters wide, 10.5 meters deep and 11.4 meters high. The largest stones weigh 12 to 15 tons. These were on top of

10266-461: The north side of the Palace. Thanks to the reign of these three kings, Bʼaakal had a century of growth and splendor. In 711, Palenque was sacked by the realm of Toniná , and the old king Kʼinich Kʼan Joy Chitam II was taken prisoner. It is not known what the final fate of the king was, and it is presumed that he was executed in Toniná. For 10 years there was no king. Finally, Kʼinich Ahkal Moʼ Nab' III

10384-601: The now-extinct Lakandon Ch'ol ., who lived along the tributaries of the upper Usumacinta River and the foothills of the Sierra de los Cuchumatanes . Most of the Lakandon Ch'ol were forcibly relocated to the Huehuetenango area of Guatemala by the Spanish in the early 18th century. The resettled Lakandon Ch'ol were soon absorbed into the local Maya populations there and ceased to exist as a separate ethnicity. Prior to

10502-464: The path of glory and splendor. The grandson of Janaab Pakal is the most famous of the Mayan kings, Kʼinich Janaab' Pakal, also known as Pakal the Great . He began rule at the age of 12 years after his mother Sak Kuk resigned as queen after three years, thus passing power on to him. Pakal the Great reigned in Palenque from 615 to 683, and his mother remained an important force for the first 25 years of his rule. She may have ruled jointly with him. Known as

10620-425: The planet's surface. Ten hotspots were originally identified by Myer; the current 36 used to cover more than 15.7% of all the land but have lost around 85% of their area. This loss of habitat is why approximately 60% of the world's terrestrial life lives on only 2.4% of the land surface area. Caribbean Islands like Haiti and Jamaica are facing serious pressures on the populations of endemic plants and vertebrates as

10738-501: The pre Hispanic period as passages to the underworld. The cave is also home to millions of bats which emerge at night to feed in the surrounding jungle. The jungle is also home to some of Mexico's most numerous and impressive archaeological sites, all of which belong to the Mayan civilization . The most important of these sites are Palenque , Bonampak and Yaxchilan , but there are many more sites and ruins that still lie unexcavated under

10856-419: The pressure to explore the area's natural resources is biopiracy , i.e. the patenting of wild plants and animals at the expense of native peoples. Various groups with cultural and environmental interest in the area have generally opposed research into the rainforest's biodiversity. In 2002 a coalition of traditional Maya healers called Chiapas Council of Traditional Indigenous Midwives and Healers managed to get

10974-449: The primary forest is destroyed by burning it down, crops are temporarily planted, and the field is then abandoned after the soil fertility declines. After a cycle of largely natural afforestation taking 7 to 30 years, the soil fertility will be restored, and the jungle can be burnt again to grow crops. According to Diemont, this type of farming could be useful in restoring forests. In the mid 20th century, Franz and Trudy Blom were one of

11092-402: The pyramid. The total volume of pyramid and temple is 32,500 cu. meters. In 1952 Alberto Ruz Lhuillier removed a stone slab in the floor of the back room of the temple superstructure to reveal a passageway (filled in shortly before the city's abandonment and reopened by archeologists) leading through a long stairway to Pakal's tomb. The tomb itself is remarkable for its large carved sarcophagus,

11210-419: The recovery of marine ecosystems following the extinction, including the development of modern coral reefs . Fossils include some of the earliest representatives of modern reef fish, such as serranids ( Paleoserranus ), damselfish ( Chaychanus ), and syngnathiforms ( Eekaulostomus ), in addition to some of the last members of extinct groups such as pycnodontids . This diverse ecosystem existed despite

11328-477: The remaining forest, about 5% was still lost per year in the early 2000s. The clearance of the jungle had been such that a journalist claimed in 2003 that satellite photos show the Mexico-Guatemalan border where the deforestation on the Mexican side stops. As of 2019, satellite images show that the forest has shrunk by 70% over the past half century. This deforestation began in the mid 19th century with

11446-415: The reserve to hunt. Because few people can afford to buy meat at the market regularly, hunting is probably an important source of animal protein for local people in terms of dietary requirements. Nonetheless, only 0.5 to 4.5kg of game meat is eaten per person per year, depending on how one calculates this, which is far below that of hunting communities elsewhere in Latin America. This may be due to depletion of

11564-404: The rich ornaments accompanying Pakal, and for the stucco sculpture decorating the walls of the tomb. Unique to Pakal's tomb is the psychoduct, which leads from the tomb itself, up the stairway and through a hole in the stone covering the entrance to the burial. This psychoduct is perhaps a physical reference to concepts about the departure of the soul at the time of death in Maya eschatology where in

11682-416: The richest, and perhaps therefore spent the least effort hunting in terms of meat extracted per km. In total, 51 species were hunted and 8160kg/year of meat was extracted from the forest a year of the 32 most commonly hunted species. There were very few full-time hunters, hunting was not considered a profitable profession; hunting is practised opportunistically. Those who hunted more often, were more likely from

11800-644: The river itself and the lowlands beyond. Yaxchilan is known for the large quantity of excellent sculpture at the site, such as the monolithic carved stelae and the narrative stone reliefs carved on lintels spanning the temple doorways. Over 120 inscriptions have been identified on the various monuments from the site. The major groups are the Central Acropolis, the West Acropolis and the South Acropolis. The South Acropolis occupies

11918-411: The royal court. The name means “painted murals”. It is centered on a large plaza and has a stairway that leads to the Acropolis. There are also a number of notable Maya stelae . Toniná is a set of progressively smaller terraces going up a mountain instead of a cluster of buildings. Many of the stones are carved including those of residences belonging to various social strata. The site was discovered in

12036-445: The ruins before Frans Blom of Tulane University in 1923, who made superior maps of both the main site and various previously neglected outlying ruins and filed a report for the Mexican government on recommendations on work that could be done to preserve the ruins. From 1949 through 1952 Alberto Ruz Lhuillier supervised excavations and consolidations of the site for Mexico's National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH); it

12154-413: The ruins in 1890–1891 and took extensive photographs of all the art and inscriptions he could find, and made paper and plaster molds of many of the inscriptions, and detailed maps and drawings, setting a high standard for all future investigators to follow. Maudslay learned the technique of making the papier mache molds of the sculptures from Frenchman Desire Charnay. Several other expeditions visited

12272-633: The same sources. Juan Galindo visited Palenque in 1831, and filed a report with the Central American government. He was the first to note that the figures depicted in Palenque's ancient art looked like the local Native Americans ; some other early explorers, even years later, attributed the site to such distant peoples as Egyptians , Polynesians , or the Lost Tribes of Israel . Starting in 1832 Jean-Frédéric Waldeck spent two years at Palenque making numerous drawings, but most of his work

12390-404: The site are the Mesoamerican ballcourt and the Acropolis. Lagartero is located 74 km south of Comitán in La Trinitaria. The site contains various mounds covering eight hectares with the largest containing burials. Excavations of burials have yielded clay figures, multicolored pottery shards and musical instruments. One area has been determined to be a Mesoamerican ball court and another as

12508-447: The slabs to display the fossils better, making them among the earliest known paleontologists . ' Palenque National Parkʼ was designated in 1981 by the Mexican government. It covers an area of 17.72 km , which encompasses the ancient city and the hills to the south. The park includes a family camp site. Biodiversity hotspot A biodiversity hotspot is a biogeographic region with significant levels of biodiversity that

12626-399: The soil becomes compacted by the trampling of livestock. According to one journalist, grass for pasture is particularly problematic because after it takes hold, it outcompetes natural vegetation. He believes deforestation causes streams to dry up as evaporation rates rise from the lack of shade. In the latter 1970s, the government changed its policies in regards to the Lacandon, establishing

12744-464: The supposed founder of the Palenque dynasty, is called a Toktan Ajaw in the text of the Temple of the Foliated Cross. The famous structures that we know today probably represent a rebuilding effort in response to the attacks by the city of Calakmul and its client states in 599 and 611. One of the main figures responsible for rebuilding Palenque and for a renaissance in the city's art and architecture

12862-618: The temples, as well as in the former quarries that this limestone was mined in. The existence of these fossils was known since the 19th century, but they only received significant scientific and archeological attention since the 2000s. These fossils have been dated to the Tenejapa-Lacandón Formation of the Early Paleocene , shortly after the Cretaceous-Paleogene extinction event , and document

12980-449: The tropics; likewise, most hotspots are tropical. Of the 36 biodiversity hotspots, 15 are classified as old, climatically-buffered, infertile landscapes (OCBILs). These areas have been historically isolated from interactions with other climate zones, but recent human interaction and encroachment have put these historically safe hotspots at risk. OCBILs have mainly been threatened by the relocation of indigenous groups and military actions, as

13098-554: The vegetation. Palenque lies on the edge of the Lacandon, where the Eastern Mountains meet the Gulf Coast Plains. It is not the largest Mayan archaeological site, but it has some well-preserved sculpture and architecture the culture produced. Major structures include the Temple of Inscriptions , the Temple of the Sun and the Temple of the Cross ; however, only a small fraction of it has been excavated. Away from

13216-528: Was Ruz Lhuillier who was the first person to gaze upon Pacal the Great's tomb in over a thousand years. Ruz worked for four years at the Temple of the Inscriptions before unearthing the tomb. Further INAH work was done in lead by Jorge Acosta into the 1970s. In 1973, the first of the very productive Palenque Mesa Redonda (Round table) conferences was held here on the inspiration of Merle Greene Robertson ; thereafter every few years leading Mayanists would meet at Palenque to discuss and examine new findings in

13334-401: Was crowned in 722. Although the new king belonged to the royalty, there is no evidence that he was the direct inheritor of Kʼinich Kʼan Joy Chitam II. It is believed, therefore, that this coronation was a break in the dynastic line, and probably Kʼinich Ahkal Nab' arrived to power after years of maneuvering and forging political alliances. This king, his son, and grandson governed until the end of

13452-408: Was enlarged and remodeled on various occasions, notably in the years 654, 661, and 668. In this structure, is a text describing how in that epoch Palenque was newly allied with Tikal, and also with Yaxchilan , and that they were able to capture the six enemy kings of the alliance. Not much more had been translated from the text. After the death of Pakal in 683, his older son Kʼinich Kan Bʼalam assumed

13570-436: Was equipped with numerous large baths and saunas which were supplied with fresh water by an intricate water system. An aqueduct, constructed of great stone blocks with a three-meter-high vault, diverts the Otulum River to flow underneath the main plaza. The Palace is the largest building complex in Palenque measuring 97 meters by 73 meters at its base. The site also has a number of other temples, tombs, and elite residences, some

13688-432: Was made in 1784 saying that the ruins were of particular interest, so two years later surveyor and architect Antonio Bernasconi was sent with a small military force under Colonel Antonio del Río to examine the site in more detail. Del Rio's forces smashed through several walls to see what could be found, doing a fair amount of damage to the Palace, while Bernasconi made the first map of the site as well as drawing copies of

13806-489: Was met by fierce resistance by the Zapatistas. In 2005, some Zapatista allied communities decided to relocate on their own, while still opposing forced resettlement. These included the settlements of Primero de Enero, Santa Cruz, Ocho de Octubre and San Isidro, with all moved to areas outside the Reserve. Since then in a communiqué, EZLN leader Subcomandante Marcos warned against trying force the removal of any Zapatista allied community. In 2008, Zapatistas and allied prohibited

13924-479: Was not published until 1866. Meanwhile, the site was visited in 1840 first by Patrick Walker and Herbert Caddy on a mission from the governor of British Honduras , and then by John Lloyd Stephens and Frederick Catherwood who published an illustrated account the following year which was greatly superior to the previous accounts of the ruins. Désiré Charnay took the first photographs of Palenque in 1858, and returned in 1881–1882. Alfred Maudslay encamped at

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