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33-939: Lenin Peak was originally named Mount Kaufmann after Konstantin Kaufman , the first Governor-General of the Russian Turkestan . In 1928, the mountain was renamed Lenin Peak after the Russian revolutionary and first leader of the Soviet Union , Vladimir Lenin . In Tajikistan, the peak was renamed again in July 2006, and today it is officially called in Tajik Qullai Abuali ibni Sino ( қуллаи Абӯалӣ ибни Сино , Ibn Sina Peak or, alternatively, Avicenna Peak ) after Abu Ali ibn Sina (Avicenna) . In Kyrgyzstan,

66-489: A daughter: Valery Khrichtchatyi Valery Nikolaevich Khrichtchatyi ( Russian : Валерий Никола́евич Хрищатый ; December 23, 1951 – August 4, 1993) was a Kazakh mountaineer. He made more than forty ascents above 7,000 meters (23,000 feet), including a string of hard winter firsts in the Pamirs and Tien Shan . He climbed Everest by a new south pillar route, Kanchenjunga without oxygen and with only one bivouac , and

99-472: A new route on the west side of Dhaulagiri (8,172 meters). Valery Khrichtchatyi was killed in a massive ice fall/avalanche that struck off Chapaev Peak on Semenovskii glacier on August 4, 1993 while attempting to summit Khan-Tengri (7,010 m). Khrichtchatyi’s long-time friend Ilia Iodes and two British climbers also met their deaths. The body of one Englishman was recovered, but the others including Khrichtchatyi were never found. That same summer Khrichtchatyi

132-601: A saddle at an elevation of 5820 m (this saddle is also known as the Krilenko Pass). On September 25, 1928, they started climbing from the saddle along the NE Ridge and at 15.30 they reached the summit. At the time, Kaufman Peak was the highest summit reached by men . The title Lenin Peak was first applied to the highest point of the Trans-Alai Range in the same year (1928). When it was renamed after Lenin it

165-407: Is also the name of a plateau and a base camp at an elevation of 3,600 m on a popular northern climbing route to Lenin Peak, which starts in the southern Kyrgyz city of Osh , a day's drive north of the border. Another suggested local name, Pik Kaman ("wild pig", "boar") probably belongs to an officially unnamed peak west of Lenin Peak. Initial exploration of this part of Central Asia occurred in

198-549: Is known as the classic route, via the Razdelnaya Peak and NW Ridge, was first climbed in 1954 by the team of Soviet climbers under the direction of V. Kovalev (P. Karpov, E. Nagel, V. Narishkin, V. Nozdryuhin). In 1960, a group of eight Soviet climbers made a successful direct climb along the North Face (15.08.1960). There are 16 established routes, nine on the southern side and seven on the northern slopes. The peak

231-491: Is quite popular with climbers due to its easy access and some uncomplicated routes. However, the peak is not without its share of disasters. In August 1974, an entire team of eight Russian women climbers died high on the mountain in a storm. Elwira Szatajewa maintained radio contact with base camp as her team-mates perished around her. In her final words she said, 'I'm alone now, with just a few minutes left to live. See you in eternity.' The first high-speed ascent of Lenin Peak

264-590: The Caucasus , was promoted to the rank of colonel , and commanded the sappers at the siege of Kars in 1855. On the capitulation of Kars, he was deputed to settle the terms with General William Fenwick Williams . In 1861, he became director-general of engineers at the War Office, assisting Minister of War Count Dmitry Milyutin in the reorganization of the army. Promoted lieutenant general in 1864, he became Governor-General of Vilna , where at that time

297-589: The Sher Ali Khan was a main cause of the Second Anglo-Afghan War . The various temporary statutes under which Turkestan was administered from 1867–1886 gave von Kaufmann a great deal of latitude in policy. In 1868 he contacted experts in Moscow to identify Alexei and Olga Fedchenko to create an expedition to document the countries natural history. Whilst Kaufmann was still extending

330-621: The Syr Darya had already been captured, and the independence of the rest of that country became merely nominal. He accomplished a successful campaign in 1868 against the Emirate of Bukhara , capturing Samarkand and gradually subjugating the whole country. During the Khivan campaign of 1873 , he attacked Khanate of Khiva , took the capital, and forced the Khan to become a vassal of Russia. This

363-603: The Turkomans of the Akhal-Teke Oasis . Skobelev, although being the effective military governor of the Fergana valley, directing matters from Margelan and New Margelan, was cut short in this second campaign of his in the area. He was recalled. (On 7 July 1882, while staying at a Moscow hotel, on his way to his estate, he died suddenly of a heart attack, shortly before the annexation of Merv ). General Chernyayev ,

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396-624: The Alai Mountains began in 1871, when Alexei Pavlovich Fedchenko discovered the Trans-Alai (Zaalayskiy) Range and its main peak. The first geographical expedition which came nearest to the base of the future Lenin Peak in the early 20th century was arguably the expedition of Nikolai Leopol'dovich Korzhenevskiy . In September 1928, three mountaineers—the Germans Eugen Allwein  [ de ] and Karl Wien , and

429-751: The Austrian Erwin Schneider  [ de ] —from the Soviet-German scientific expedition made the first attempt to reach the highest point of the Trans-Alai Range, which at that time had the name Kaufman Peak. They started climbing upstream of the Saukdara river along the South slope of Trans-Alai Range also Trans-Alay Range . From the river head they continued climbing along the Greater Saukdara Glacier towards

462-579: The Governor-General's policy as he wanted to see this information shared with Russians as well as locals. The local newspaper was used to publish the scientific findings. Kaufmann targeted the 1872 Moscow All-Russian Technical Exhibition as an opportunity to display the research of this new part of the Russian empire. Kaufmann was allowed to carry out administrative negotiations with neighbouring states on his own account, to establish and oversee

495-649: The North (approximately indicated on the Scheme): Lipkin's rocks route and NE Ridge; the classic North Face route; the route via Razdelnaya Peak and the NW Ridge. Konstantin Petrovich von Kaufmann Konstantin Petrovich von Kaufmann ( Russian : Константи́н Петро́вич фон-Ка́уфман , romanized :  Konstantin Petrovich fon-Kaufman ; 2 March 1818 – 16 May 1882), was a military engineer and

528-550: The Russian conquest, the Russian General Kaufmann presented him with a demand to abolish the Khivan slave trade and slavery, which he did. Although Kaufmann was unable to induce his government to support all his ambitious schemes of further conquest, he was still in office when General Mikhail Skobelev , the hero of the Russo-Turkish war of 1877, was despatched from Tiflis in 1880 and 1881 against

561-482: The Second World War. On August 14, 1950, twelve climbers (V. Aksenov, K, Zaporojchenko, Y. Izrael, V. Kovalev, A. Kormshikov, Y. Maslov, E. Nagel, V. Narishkin, V. Nikonov, V. Nozdryuhin, I. Rojkov) under the direction of Vladimir Racek reached the summit for the fourth time. All three Soviet expeditions including Racec's expedition of 1950 were by almost the same route via the NE Ridge. The route which now

594-648: The Tsarist state had begun a policy of expropriating the Polish aristocracy in an attempt to break its influence in the countryside. At the high point of the Russian conquest of Turkestan , in 1867, he became Governor-General of the new province of Turkestan , and held the post until his death, making himself a name in the expansion of the empire in Central Asia . The western part of the Khanate of Kokand along

627-754: The borders of the Russian Empire, he was creating a team to investigate and document the new territory. Kaufmann's team included statisticians, the Fedchenkos, the war artist Vasily Vereshchagin and later the educationalist Nikolai Ostroumov . Kaufmann wanted an investigation of a "newly and scarcely explored region". Kaufmann set up a Tashkent outpost of the Moscow Society of Devotees of Natural Science, Anthropology, and Ethnography (OLEAE). The Fedchenkos made three separate explorations between 1868 and 1872. These investigations were central to

660-446: The conqueror of Tashkent in 1865, was appointed as his successor. There are various species of plants are named after him including Tulipa kaufmanniana , Eremurus kaufmannii , Eremostachys kaufmanniana , Gentiana kaufmanniana , and Statice kaufmanniana . He was married to Julie von Berg (1820-1906), daughter of Admiral Moritz Anton August von Berg (1776-1860) and his wife, Marie Niemann (1790-1856). They had one son and

693-516: The expenditure of the budget, set taxes, and establish the privileges of Russian subjects in the General-Gubernatorstvo ; he also had the power to confirm and revoke death sentences passed in the Russian military courts. Nowhere else in the Russian Empire did a Military Governor-General have this kind of independence from central control, and nowhere else was there such obvious pessimism about the region's potential for integration into

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726-502: The first Governor-General of Russian Turkestan . Konstantin Petrovich was born as the second eldest of four sons to Lieutenant General Peter Feodorovich von Kaufmann (1784-1849) and his wife, Emilie Watson-Priestfield-Aithernay (1790-1858). His family was German in origin (from Holstein ), but had been in the service of the Tsars of Russia for over 100 years, and had since converted to Russian Orthodoxy . Another source says that he

759-469: The main body of the Empire. Isolated geographically from European Russia by an expanse of Steppe that took two months to cross, it was isolated still more decisively in the minds of Tsarist officials by its dense, ancient and settled Islamic culture. In its early years under Kaufmann, Turkestan was thus also administratively isolated, with many distinctive institutions within the military bureaucracy , that

792-827: The peak is still officially called Lenin Chokusu ( Ленин Чокусу , Lenin Peak ). However, in October 2017, Kyrgyz president Almazbek Atambayev called for renaming the peak "Manas Peak", after the hero of the Epic of Manas . A peak named "Manas Peak" already exists in Kyrgyzstan; it is a mountain of 4,488 metres (14,724 ft) in the Talas Alatau range in Talas Region . Local Kyrgyz names include Jel-Aidar ("Wind's God") and Achyk-Tash ("Open Rock"). Achik-Tash ,

825-645: The period 1774–82. Arguably the first recorded travel through the region is the involuntary journey of the slave Filipp Efremov (an ethnic Russian), who escaped from slavery in Bukhara. He crossed the Fergana valley, then via Osh, the Chigirik Pass and Terekdavan Pass he reached the Kashgar and finally came over the Karakorum. He was the first European who crossed the Alai Mountains. Scientific expeditions to

858-406: The summit: including Valery Khrichtchatyi , Balyberdin, S. Arsentiev, U. Moiseev, I. Tulaiev and V. Dedi. In 1987 the first solo ascent was achieved by the great high altitude mountaineer Anatoli Boukreev . An avalanche triggered by an earthquake killed 43 climbers in 1990. As it is now, considering the existing infrastructure and BC/ABC locations, there are three most attractive routes from

891-412: Was "descended from an Austrian mercenary who had entered Russian service in the late eighteenth century. A Russian-speaking Orthodox Christian, the only thing German about him was his name". Kaufmann graduated from Nikolayev Engineering Institute (now Military Engineering-Technical University ) as a military engineer . Kaufmann entered the military engineering field in 1838, served in the campaigns in

924-588: Was believed to be the highest point in the USSR. On September 8, 1934, at 16:20 Kasian Chernuha, Vitaly Abalakov and Ivan Lukin, three members of a Soviet expedition, reached the summit at an elevation of 7,134 metres (23,406 ft). Their attempt lasted for four days with three camps (5,700 m, 6,500 m and 7,000 m). The expedition started climbing from the Achik-Tash canyon in the Alai valley. The summit attempt itself

957-509: Was completed in 1987. The team, led by Valery Khrichtchatyi , included G. Lunyakov, Z. Khalitov, Anatoli Boukreev , V. Suviga, Y. Moiseev and A. Tselischev. The climb beginning from ABC base camp (4400 m) to the summit and return to ABC base camp took 12 hours. Under the leadership of Leonid Troshchinenko the team, composed of 19 mountaineers from Leningrad and three from Kazakhstan , made the first winter ascent of Lenin Peak in 1988. With temperatures hovering at -45 °C, only six men reached

990-555: Was followed in 1875 by the campaign against Kokand, in which Kaufman defeated the uprising khan, Nasreddin, after an anti-Russian uprising against the previous ruler, Khudoyar. The fiction of Kokand's independence was ended, and the remaining rump of the Khanate in the Ferghana Valley was annexed. This rapid absorption of these Khanates brought Russia into proximity to Afghanistan , and the reception of Kaufmann's emissaries by

1023-554: Was loosely superimposed on a largely unreformed native administration. When Kaufmann approached the city of Khiva during the Khivan campaign of 1873 , the slaves in Khiva rebelled, informed about the eminent downfall of the city. When Kaufmann army entered Khiva on 28 March, he was approached by Khivans who begged him to put down the ongoing slave uprising, during which slaves avenged themselves on their former enslavers. When Muhammad Rahim Khan II of Khiva returned to his capital after

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1056-559: Was started along the Western ice slope of the Lenin glacier. They continued climbing along the North Face, passing the rocks that were later given the name Lipkin's Rocks. At the end of the second day they reached the crest of the NE ridge at an elevation of about 6500 m. During the following day and a half they climbed along the NE Ridge and, utterly exhausted, reached the summit. The third ascent

1089-470: Was three years later, in 1937, when eight Soviet climbers under the direction of Lev Barkhash reached the summit by the same route. This was at the beginning of mass political repressions in the Soviet Union and many of the most prominent Soviet climbers, including Lev Barkhash, were brought to trial. Subsequent attempts to climb Lenin Peak could not begin until 1950, when the USSR began to recover from

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