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Lyke Wake Walk

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102-558: The Lyke Wake Walk is a 40-mile (64 km) challenge walk across the highest and widest part of the North York Moors National Park in North Yorkshire , England. The route remembers the many corpses carried over the moors on old coffin routes and the ancient burial mounds encountered on the way; the name derives from a lyke, the corpse and the wake - watching over the deceased. Its associated club has

204-664: A circular long distance bridle route created around the North York Moors which can be accessed at a number of locations. The steep escarpments that define the edges of the National Park on three sides are used by several gliding clubs. In late 2020, the National Park was named as an International Dark Sky Reserve. This honour confirms that the area has "low levels of light pollution with good conditions for astronomy". The National Park has two visitor centres which have tourist information and exhibitions, as well as

306-551: A collection of circular stone hut foundations on Percy Rigg. Other evidence of Iron Age occupation is scarce, having been obliterated by subsequent agricultural activity. By 71 AD, the Roman army had reached Yorkshire, where they established a fort at Malton. Wade's Causeway may have been one of the several Roman roads which radiated from this point. It led north-eastwards over the Vale of Pickering and across Wheeldale Moor towards

408-549: A contemporary gallery. These are at: The North York Moors have not changed much in the past 50 years, and are often used as a location for British television programmes and films . The series Heartbeat and the scenes of Hogsmeade Station in the Harry Potter movies were filmed in Goathland . RAF Fylingdales Royal Air Force Fylingdales ( RAF Fylingdales ) is a Royal Air Force station on Snod Hill in

510-469: A different starting time on the estimation that all runners finish at the same time. Prizes are awarded for first male and female finishers and fastest male and female runners. The race was first held in 1964, running from Ravenscar Beacon to Osmotherley. In 1976, due to moorland fires, the race was run out-and-back, starting in Osmotherley and taking in the first half of the traditional route. By 1998,

612-575: A formal request from the US, the British Government agreed to its use as an NMD tracking facility. The decision was criticised, because the proposed NMD system was solely for US benefit. According to the BBC , The Independent reported that the British Government secretly agreed to the US request to station NMD missile interceptors at Fylingdales Moor in late 2004. This has subsequently been denied by

714-520: A local tourist attraction as a result. Between 1989 and 13 November 1992, Raytheon , the US defence contractor , completed a contract that saw the domes replaced by the current tetrahedron ('pyramid') structure, originally housing the AN/FPS-126 AESA phased array radar system. The site is 820 feet (250 m) above sea level and the structure is nine floors high rising from its ground level to 120 feet (37 m) high. The radar system

816-661: A low watershed, is drained by the River Leven , which flows west to join the River Tees . On their south side, the moorland is incised by a series of dales which drain into tributaries of the River Derwent . The westernmost dale is Rye Dale , to the west of which rise the Hambleton Hills . Bilsdale is a side dale of Rye Dale. East of Bilsdale Bransdale , Farndale , Rosedale and Newton Dale cut into

918-521: A new Danish kingdom based at York. The Danes settled in the area and later themselves became Christian. They introduced their language, elements of which still remain in the local dialect, and renamed a number of settlements. King William I of England and his Norman barons took control of the nation in 1066. Central to the imposition of Norman rule was the building of castles. There are well-preserved castle ruins at Helmsley, Pickering and Scarborough and others existed at Ayton, Danby, Mulgrave and Whorlton. In

1020-509: A number of gods, notably Woden . However, Christianity came to Yorkshire when King Edwin of Northumbria was baptised in 627 AD at York. Christian monasteries were established at Lastingham in 654 and Whitby in 657. A nunnery was built at Hackness in 680. In the 9th century, Viking raiders began to attack the Yorkshire coast, and in 867 these Danes destroyed the religious houses at Whitby, Lastingham and Hackness and after battle set up

1122-457: A short story competition for schools within the National Park. The new club maintains up-to-date route information on its website, funds footpath repairs and removes litter along the route, and gives grants to young club members for educational and outdoor pursuits purposes. Both the original and new clubs' criterion for membership is the completion of a crossing within 24 hours, and there are no honorary, associate or corporate members. A concession

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1224-534: A social structure, culture and rituals based on the walk and Christian and folklore traditions from the area through which it passes. The idea of a walk originated from an article in the Dalesman magazine in August 1955. Its author, Bill Cowley, described a 40 miles (64 km) walk across the North York Moors from east to west (or vice versa) on heather all the way except for when crossing one or two roads. Given

1326-567: A truncated tetrahedron , typically referred to as the "pyramid" or the SSPAR (Solid State Phased Array Radar). This makes Fylingdales unique amongst its peers in that it covers a full 360 degrees. Each of the three arrays is 84 feet (26 m) across and contains around 2560 transmit/receive modules; mean power output is about 2.5 MW , with a tracking range of 3,000 nautical miles (5,600 km; 3,500 mi). The functions of RAF Fylingdales have been subject to criticism from opposition groups, such as

1428-532: A widespread scattering of flint tools and the barbed flint flakes used in arrows and spears. By 5000 BC, as global sea levels rose and the North Sea came into existence, Britain was cut off from mainland Europe. During the New Stone Age, which lasted from around 4500 to 2000 BC, the population increased and agriculture was adopted. These early farmers were the first to destroy the forest cover of

1530-598: Is abundant rain and poor drainage. Cotton grass is a distinctive plant which grows in the boggy areas. In the cold acid waters of peat bogs there is little decomposition of organic material with the result that the dead sphagnum moss gradually accumulates to form peat. This raises the levels of the bogs and they dry out. Heather then invades the area. Large areas of the moorland are now covered in heather, bilberries and grasses growing on thick layers of peat. The acid soils and peat bogs are unsuitable for earthworms so species which usually feed on earthworms such as moles and

1632-450: Is burned in strips by gamekeepers and farmers to encourage new heather growth to feed the grouse. Grouse shooting is part of the moorland economy. About 20 per cent of the national park is covered in bracken . Few things can grow under its dense cover and it does not support many insects and is unpalatable to most animals. The bracken is extremely invasive. Sheep are a ubiquitous part of the moorland landscape. Their grazing helps to maintain

1734-437: Is influenced by predominantly westerly winds with depressions and their associated fronts , bringing with them unsettled and windy weather, particularly in winter. Between depressions, there are often small mobile anticyclones that bring periods of fine weather. In winter, anticyclones bring cold dry weather. In summer, the anticyclones tend to bring dry settled conditions, which can lead to drought. For its latitude, this area

1836-599: Is milder in winter and cooler in summer due to the influence of the Gulf Stream in the North Atlantic Ocean . Air temperature varies on a daily and seasonal basis. The temperature is usually lower at night and January is the coldest time of the year. The two dominant influences on the climate of the North York Moors are the shelter against the worst of the moist westerly winds provided by the Pennines and

1938-680: Is no exact route but the Lyke Wake Club and its successor have rules regarding what can be considered a successful crossing. For record purposes the walk starts at its original departure point, the Ordnance Survey Trig point on Scarth Wood Moor, near Osmotherley (NGR: SE 459 997) and finishes in the bar of the Raven Hall Hotel in Ravenscar (NGR: NZ 981 018). For practical purposes the acceptable end points are

2040-729: Is not supported by records. The club celebrates walkers who have undertaken multiple crossings with awards called degrees acknowledging knowledge the route, the moorland and its culture. The club designated Cowley as "Chief Dirger" and other officers included a Melancholy Mace Bearer, Harassed Archivists, Melodious Minstrels, a Cheerless Chaplain, a Horrible Horn-blower and an Anxious Almoner. Degrees conferred include Master/Mistress of Misery, Doctor of Dolefulness and Past Master/Mistress. Walkers who completed more than one hundred crossings are referred to as Senile Centenarians and as of March 2016, four people have achieved this landmark.) The requirements for degrees are: The New Lyke Wake Club has instituted

2142-563: Is that anyone can claim an extra 12 hours for every five years over the age of 65 but, although there have been crossings by older walkers, some over eighty years old, there is no record of any of them claiming the concession. In earlier years signing in/out books were kept at the Queen Catherine Hotel in Osmotherley and at Pollard Cafe in Ravenscar. The Lyke Wake Clubs have not monitored individual crossings for compliance with

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2244-717: Is to give the British and US governments warning of an impending ballistic missile attack (part of the so-called four minute warning during the Cold War ). A secondary role is the detection and tracking of orbiting objects; Fylingdales is part of the United States Space Surveillance Network . As well as its early-warning and space-tracking roles, Fylingdales has a third function – the Satellite Warning Service for

2346-724: Is variable from year to year, but the area gets much more snow on average than other parts of the country. Heavy falls are associated with northeasterly winds off the North Sea. Roads over the high moorland areas are notoriously prone to drifting snow due to the exposed nature of the terrain. Average recordings are: The geology of the North York Moors is dominated by rocks of the Jurassic period. They were mostly laid down in subtropical seas 205 to 142 million years ago. Fluctuations in sea level produced different rock types varying from shales to sandstones and limestones derived from coral. These marine and delta deposited rocks are well exposed on

2448-600: The Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament (CND), leading to protests being held on occasion. These stem from concerns regarding the base's association with nuclear warfare and the militarisation of space . They argue against the UK assisting the US National Missile Defense (NMD) programme with RAF Fylingdales' ability to detect attacks, saying it is destabilising US and European relations with Russia , makes

2550-701: The Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000 . Popular named walks include the Cleveland Way , which circles the North York Moors, including a coastal section; and the Lyke Wake Walk , which leads directly across the heart of the National Park. The route of the White Rose Way , a long distance walk from Leeds to Scarborough also passes through. The area also offers opportunities for cycling , mountain biking , and horse-riding , including

2652-520: The Devensian , ended about 11,000 years ago. The higher parts of the North York Moors were not covered by the ice sheets but glaciers flowed southwards on either side of the higher land mass. As the climate became warmer at the end of the ice age, the snowfields on the North York Moors began to melt. The meltwater was unable to escape northwards, westwards or eastwards because it was blocked by ice. Huge torrents of water were forced southwards. Water from

2754-693: The Ministry of Defence . The £449 million upgrade for RAF Fylingdales to become an NMD tracking facility was undertaken by Boeing , with Raytheon as the major subcontractor. While the radar station remains a British asset operated and commanded by the Royal Air Force, it also forms one of three stations in the United States BMEWS network (the United States also funds the cost of the radar units). The other two stations in

2856-692: The North York Moors , England. Its motto is Vigilamus ("We are watching"). It is a radar base and is also part of the Ballistic Missile Early Warning System (BMEWS). As part of intelligence-sharing arrangements between the United States and United Kingdom (see, for example, the UKUSA Agreement ), data collected at RAF Fylingdales are shared between the two countries. Its primary purpose

2958-666: The Whitby - Pickering road ( A169 ) between Point 945 (Sil Howe) and Point 701 (near Saltergate) and the Scarborough -Whitby road ( A171 ) between Point 538 (Evan Howe) and Point 579 (Falcon Inn). Point numbers are the height in feet above sea level as given on the one inch Ordnance Survey Tourist Map of the North York Moors (1970 edition); the metric equivalents are identified on the Landranger and Explorer Series maps. The original route began at Scarth Wood Moor trig point, followed

3060-424: The common shrew are absent on the moorland. The pygmy shrew survives by eating the insects and spiders that live in the heather. Lapwing , curlew and redshank breed on the moorland and there are sandpipers along the streams. Wheatear and golden plovers inhabit grassier patches on the moorland and ring ouzels live in stony areas. Red grouse , which feed on young heather shoots, are abundant. The heather

3162-470: The wood vetch and orchids are also to be found. Adders are widespread throughout the national park. On the moors they eat common lizards and around the hedgerows and woodland edges they feed on mice and voles. The limestone grasslands support a wide variety of wild flowers, and many rarer butterflies can be seen. Pearl-bordered fritillary , Duke of Burgundy fritillary , marbled white , dingy skipper and grayling are just some of species that inhabit

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3264-435: The 11th and 12th centuries monasteries were established on the moors at Whitby Abbey , Rievaulx Abbey , Byland Abbey and Mount Grace Priory . Gifts of land and money were bestowed on these establishments and the monastic orders became notable landowners, eventually owning about a third of the land in the area. The abbeys managed their land as sheep farms and became very rich on the profits. They continued to take in land from

3366-409: The 19th century railways were built from Pickering to Whitby (1836), Middlesbrough to Whitby (1868) and Scarborough to Whitby (1884). Locally sourced iron ore has been processed on the North York Moors from medieval times. In the 19th century it became a boom industry. Dozens of ironstone mines and several short-lived blast furnaces were constructed. Between 1856 and 1926 high-grade magnetic ironstone

3468-475: The Alum/Jet Miners Track from Live Moor to Hasty Bank , then to Smuggler's Trod, Bloworth, Ironstone Railway, Esklets, White Cross (Fat Betty), Shunner Howe, Hamer, Blue Man-i'-th'-Moss , Wheeldale Stepping Stones, Fen House, Tom Cross Rigg, Snod Hill, Lilla Howe , Jugger Howe ravine, Helwath, Pye Howe Rigg, to Ravenscar (Raven Hall Hotel). This route is no longer possible as a section is within

3570-682: The Crosses Walk and the long distance trails. A walk from west to east across the North York Moors around ten miles south of the Lyke Wake Walk from Gormire Lake to Cloughton Wyke termed, in a play on words, the Lake Wyke Walk has been suggested. The Lyke Wake Way is a non-challenge alternative from Osmotherley to Ravenscar on public rights of way via locations where accommodation and other facilities are available. It entails 50 to 60 miles (80 to 97 km) of walking depending on

3672-505: The Esk Valley, and East Yorkshire route 128 connects Scarborough and Helmsley. On weekends during the summer, these are complemented by Moorsbus services, which run from local urban centres into more remote parts of the national park which are difficult to access without private transport. Some of the routes across the North York Moors are noted for their beauty – the 840 was declared Britain's most scenic bus route by Bus Users UK while

3774-483: The Esk valley area flowed southwards gouging out the deep Newtondale valley as it went. Water from the North York Moors formed a vast lake in the area of the Vale of Pickering. Eventually this lake filled its basin and then overflowed at the lowest point which was at Kirkham. Here it cut the steep sided Kirkham gorge. When the ice finally retreated it left deep deposits of boulder clay (or till ) behind. The boulder clay blocked

3876-594: The Lyke Wake Stone adjacent to Sheep Wash car park at Cod Beck Reservoir at the western end (NGR: SE 467 992) and Beacon Howes car park where there is a second Lyke Wake Stone at the eastern end (NGR: NZ 969 012). Successful crossings must stick to the moorland summits as far as practicable and walkers straying into Eskdale are disqualified. The route crosses the Stokesley - Helmsley road (B1257) between Point 842 (Clay Bank Top) and Point 503 (Orterley Lane end),

3978-733: The Ministry of Defence controlled area at RAF Fylingdales Early Warning Radar Station. Most crossings now follow the classic route, a variation of the original. It begins at Scarth Wood Moor trig point or the western Lyke Wake Stone in Sheepwash car park, follows the summit track from Live Moor over Carlton Moor , Cringle Moor , Cold Moor and Hasty Bank, Smuggler's Trod, Bloworth, Ironstone Railway, Esklets or South Flat Howe or Lion Inn , White Cross (Fat Betty), Shunner Howe, Hamer, Blue Man-i'-th'-Moss, Wheeldale Stepping Stones, Fen Bogs, Eller Beck, Lilla Howe, Jugger Howe ravine, Stony Marl Moor, to

4080-588: The Moors and finally destroyed much of the original forest. The climate was relatively warmer and drier at this time so it was possible to live on the high moors throughout the year. When a piece of land was exhausted of nutrients, these people moved on, leaving behind land that was incapable of supporting anything but a heathland vegetation. There are about 3,000 Bronze Age burial mounds on the moors. The Iron Age dates from about 600 BC. There are remains of two promontory hill forts at Boltby Scar and Roulston Scar and

4182-465: The North Sea coast. There are Roman camps at Cawthorn and Lease Rigg near Grosmont and signal stations along the coast at Filey, Scarborough, Ravenscar, Goldsborough and Hunt Cliff . The Romans left Britain in 410 AD. After the departure of the Romans, Germanic tribes arrived and settled in the area. These Angles, Saxons and Jutes gave many of the place names to villages on the moors. They worshipped

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4284-581: The Osmotherley Summer Games. It started at Beacon Howes with the finishing line in Osmotherley. Both events were organised on the same date for a number of years. In the early years the Puckrin brothers, Arthur, Philip and Richard, were prominent amongst the leading runners with the first two brothers winning nine of the first ten races between them. Other winners have included prominent athletes/fell runners such as Joss Naylor . A history of

4386-420: The UK the front line in any future conflict and it could be information from Fylingdales that initiates a nuclear response from the US and/or the UK to a perceived threat – real or false; intended or accidental. The radar beam has created serious concern of radiation risks due to leakage from the sides of the beam's "side lobes". Although the radiation levels are within UK limits ( NRPB ), it would be harder for

4488-454: The UK. It keeps track of spy satellites used by other countries, so that secret activities in the UK can be carried out when they are not overhead. The armed services, defence manufacturers and research organisations, including universities, take advantage of this facility. The station was sited on a former wartime mortar range on Snod Hill, which had to be comprehensively cleared by RAF Bomb Disposal before building could begin. The station

4590-641: The Vale of Pickering flowing westwards, turns southwards at Malton and flows through the eastern part of the Vale of York before emptying into the River Ouse at Barmby on the Marsh . As part of the United Kingdom, the North York Moors area generally has warm summers and relatively mild winters. Weather conditions vary from day to day as well as from season to season. The latitude of the area means that it

4692-580: The X93 was the tenth most scenic. The cyclists in the 2018 and 2019 Tour de Yorkshire passed through a section of the North York Moors. The North York Moors consist of a moorland plateau, dissected by a number of deep dales or valleys containing cultivated land or woodland. The largest dale is Eskdale , the valley of the River Esk which flows from west to east and empties into the North Sea at Whitby . The Cleveland Hills rise north of Eskdale. At

4794-445: The Yorkshire coast from Staithes to Filey. Subsequently, about 30 million years ago, the land was uplifted and tilted towards the south by earth movements. The upper layers of rock were eroded away and the older rocks were exposed in places. Because of the tilt the oldest rocks became exposed in the north. These are the bands of shales and ironstones on the northern scarp of the North York Moors and Cleveland Hills. The middle layers form

4896-534: The act of participating in the walk is known as dirging. In the first few years, the walk followed a difficult route requiring endeavour and physical endurance as there was no track over most of its length. From the mid-1970s the walk was re-thought because the numbers of people attempting it had, in places, eroded the ground surface, and disturbance to game birds, sheep and wildlife by walkers and their support parties at all times of day and night, particularly in Osmotherley, Ravenscar and at remote farms. Footpath erosion

4998-570: The after-life that are broadly Yorkshire, northern English and Christian in character, with an acknowledgement of local folklore and the pagan forebears who originally inhabited the moorlands. Club meetings were termed "wakes" and the club badge was coffin shaped and decorated with the Ordnance Survey symbol for a tumulus (burial mound), many of which are found along the route. Its culture is of solemnity regarding issues of ritual, folklore and mortality but with light-hearted aspects relating to

5100-434: The air and salt or clear water. Rock pools contain sea anemones , blennies , crabs and molluscs . Sandy shores harbour a variety of plants and animals which are buried in the sand. Birds such as curlews and oyster catchers are to be seen prodding the sand to find these creatures for food. A few cormorants and fulmars breed along the coast where stonechats and rock pipits can also be spotted. Herring gulls are

5202-640: The area is clearly defined by the impressive cliffs of the North Sea coast. The northern and western boundaries are defined by the steep scarp slopes of the Cleveland Hills edging the Tees lowlands and the Hambleton Hills above the Vale of Mowbray . To the south lies the broken line of the Tabular Hills and the Vale of Pickering . Four roads cross the North York Moors from north to south. In

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5304-457: The base to keep within the tighter European Union limits (INIRPB), which the UK may soon adopt, though Britain's exit from the EU makes this less likely. On 26 August 2019, Laura Woodwardsmith telephoned North Yorkshire Police and made a bomb threat in relation to RAF Fylingdales. Although, the Ministry of Defence Police locked down the base as a precaution, it was later revealed that Woodwardsmith

5406-510: The cold climate of the ice age ameliorated and temperatures rose above growing point of 5.5 °C (41.9 °F). Plant life was gradually re-established and animals and humans also returned. Around 8,000 BC, Britain was still part of the European landmass, and communities of Middle Stone Age people migrated to England and began to inhabit the North York Moors. Relics of this early hunting, gathering and fishing community have been found as

5508-518: The commonest breeding birds and are an interesting sight nesting in the chimneys of coastal towns. There are records of 12,000 archaeological sites and features in the North York Moors National Park of which 700 are scheduled monuments . Radio carbon dating of pollen grains preserved in the moorland peat provides a record of the actual species of plants that existed at various periods in the past. About 10,000 years ago,

5610-404: The degree of "Purveyor of Purgatory" for leaders who have successfully, and without mishap, conducted three (or more) parties on the walk. It can be awarded in absentia but the other degrees are only awarded when the recipient is in attendance at a wake. The walk's popularity owes much to Cowley's book which gives insights into the history, archaeology, geography, natural history, and folklore of

5712-653: The east, the A171 joins Whitby and Scarborough . Further inland, the A169 runs between Pickering and Whitby. More centrally, a minor road departs from the A170 at Keldholme and passes through Castleton before joining the A171 which connects Whitby and Guisborough . The most westerly route is the B1257 connecting Helmsley to Stokesley . The A170 from Thirsk to Scarborough marks

5814-483: The eastern Lyke Wake Stone at Beacon Howes or Ravenscar. A summary description of the classic route with photographs is described by Richard Gilbert in his book, The Big Walks and a guidebook is available. A detailed illustrated description of the western half of the walk is given in Alfred Wainwright 's A Coast to Coast Walk . Most crossings are done west to east. The original challenge, crossing towards

5916-469: The eastern end of the Vale of Pickering causing a permanent deviation in the course of the River Derwent. Alluvium from the glacial meltwater covers many areas to the north of the moors and in the Esk valley. The North York Moors National Park encompasses three main types of landscape, whose differences are clearly visible, and the coastal belt. There are predominantly green areas of pasture land,

6018-415: The high ground. These woodland areas are the home of pied flycatchers, sparrow hawks and wood warblers . Roe and fallow deer can also be found here. The woodlands and south facing grasslands on the limestone belt provide a good habitat for many butterflies. The fertile alkaline soils support an abundance of wild flowers. Bluebells and primroses grow in the hedgerows in spring and rarer plants such as

6120-449: The industry grew in the middle of the 19th century in response to a fashion for the jewellery produced from it. In the 1880s cheap imports produced a decline in the industry which was focused on Whitby. The remains of alum quarries are to be found to the north of the area and along the coast. Alum was important to the textile industry because it was used as a mordant or fixative for dyes that were used to colour cloth. The industry thrived in

6222-690: The largest expanses of heather moorland in the United Kingdom. The area was designated as a National Park in 1952, through the National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act 1949 . Covering an area of 554 sq mi (1,430 km ), the National Park has a population of 23,380. It is administered by the North York Moors National Park Authority, which is based in Helmsley . To the east,

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6324-426: The livestock farms. The main arable crops are barley, wheat, oilseed rape, potatoes, and sugar beets. There is also some intensive production of pigs and poultry. Many visitors to the North York Moors are engaged in outdoor pursuits, particularly walking ; the National Park has a network of public rights of way almost 1,400 miles (2,300 km) in length, and most of the areas of open moorland are open access under

6426-430: The many editions of Cowley's Lyke Wake Walk book and in a separate volume devoted to literature and artwork contributed by members. Female members are termed "Witches", males are "Dirgers". The walk emerged when outdoor challenges and sponsored fund-raising events were becoming a feature of national life. It became popular and was considered a "rite of passage" for outdoor enthusiasts in Yorkshire in particular and across

6528-485: The moorland. In the south east, the landscape is marked by the narrow valleys of the upper reaches of the Derwent and its upper tributaries. About 23 per cent of the North York Moors is under woodland cover (mostly located to the south-west and south-east), equivalent to more than 300 square kilometres of trees. It is home to the largest concentration of ancient and veteran trees in northern England. The Derwent crosses

6630-546: The moors and mentions a number of the walk's landmarks. His early contributions to the Dalesman , appear in retrospect, to hint at the idea of the walk drawing on his appreciation of the works of the archaeologist Frank Elgee , antiquarian and folklore expert Canon John Christopher Atkinson and author and rambler Alfred J. Brown . The walk is usually done from west to east although it can be done in either direction. A successful crossing must be completed within 24 hours. There

6732-553: The moors. The book describes the club and its culture in a tongue-in-cheek humorous style. Its first edition contained a list of the successful crossings up to October 1958. The possibility of inclusion in future editions together with the use of quotes from some crossing reports became an incentive to those taking on the challenge and inspired correspondents to be inventive and "attain literary heights". Cowley died on 14 August 1994. The Lyke Wake Club, he founded, closed in October 2005,

6834-455: The moors. Their settlements were concentrated in the fertile parts of the limestone belt and these areas have been continuously farmed ever since. The Neolithic farmers grew crops, kept animals, made pottery and were highly skilled at making stone implements. They buried their dead in long low burial mounds. Around 2000 BC, the early Bronze Age Beaker People inhabited the Moors. During a 1,400 year period, these people inhabited all areas of

6936-798: The national park. The cliffs and sandy bays of the northern end of the Yorkshire Coast offer an assortment of seashore habitats. An area where the Cleveland Hills meets the sea has been designated as a Heritage Coast . The cliff at Boulby, at 690 feet (210 m), the highest point on the east coast of England is formed by Jurassic shales, clays and ironstones. There are also fine exposures of Jurassic rocks with their characteristic fossils around Robin Hoods Bay and Ravenscar. Rocky shores offer an abundance of seaweeds in zones of different types which are more and less tolerant of exposure to

7038-481: The network are Thule Air Base , Greenland and Clear Space Force Station , Alaska . The data obtained by Fylingdales is shared fully and freely with the United States, where it feeds into the US- Canadian North American Aerospace Defense Command at Peterson Space Force Base in Colorado Springs . The British Government advised in March 2018, that as of the beginning of that month, fewer than five United States military personnel and ten US contractors worked at

7140-436: The north of England. It became a challenge for fundraisers for good causes. Reliable estimates, based on club records, put the number of people having completed a crossing at more than 250,000. Possibly more than 30,000 made more than one crossing, a significant number have completed it more than ten times and a handful have made more than a hundred. One estimate put the total number of crossings up to 1994 at one million, but this

7242-493: The open wild landscape that is needed for many other plants and animals to thrive. Limestone weathers quickly to produce nutrient rich alkaline soils on well drained rocks. Gouging by glacial meltwaters has left spectacular valleys along whose floors run streams. The limestone streams with their nutrient rich waters support an abundance of aquatic invertebrates such as insect larvae and crustaceans . These in turn support such fish as trout and grayling . Insects which emerge from

7344-691: The original Lyke Wake Club have been deposited in the North Yorkshire County Archives in Northallerton and Ryedale Folk Museum, Hutton-le-Hole. The Lyke Wake Dirge has been set to music. One notable setting is part of the Serenade for Tenor, Horn and Strings by Benjamin Britten . North York Moors National Park The North York Moors is an upland area in north-eastern Yorkshire , England. It contains one of

7446-510: The park each year, has been formed and maintained by generations of farmers. The 1996 Agricultural Census recorded a total workforce of 2,913 employed on 1,342 working farms. Sheep and cattle provide the prime source of farm income. The dale farms have rights to graze sheep on the open moor. The rights to moorland grazing are often essential to the economic viability of a farm. In recent years agriculture in Britain has suffered economic setbacks and

7548-406: The proximity of the North Sea . Late, chilly springs and warm summers are a feature of the area, but there are often spells of fine autumn weather. Onshore winds in spring and early summer bring mists or low stratus clouds (known locally as sea frets) to the coasts and moorland. Within the area, variations in climate are brought about by local differences in altitude, aspect and shelter. Snowfall

7650-406: The purple and brown heather moorland, and woodland. The three kinds of scenery are the result of differences in the underlying geology and each supports different wildlife communities. Sandstones erode slowly and form poor acid soils which are deficient in nutrients. They are less permeable to water, impeding drainage and encouraging the formation of bogs. Sphagnum moss bogs are common where there

7752-479: The race up to 1981 has been given by Bill Smith. Since the Quakers took over the race, it has been held in an eastern direction, starting at Sheepwash and finishing in Ravenscar. The tradition of the Lyke Wake Walk and Lyke Wake Race is that crossing times are rounded to next whole minute; seconds are not recorded. The race is held under a handicap basis, with runners estimating their time beforehand and being given

7854-500: The race was run from Sheepwash to Ravenscar, and in 2001 was cancelled entirely due to foot-and-mouth disease. The walk has attracted media interest with television coverage, radio programmes and print articles. In its 60th anniversary year, 2015, the BBC Radio 4 feature Ramblings , hosted by Clare Balding , dedicated an episode to the Lyke Wake Walk with broadcast dates 4 June and 6 June 2015. The archives, records and artefacts of

7956-442: The region from the early 17th century until 1871. Its decline came when chemical dyes were discovered. The scars of industrial activity on the moors make it an interesting area in which to pursue industrial archaeology. The area's economy is mainly founded on tourism and agriculture . For over a thousand years the basis of the economy in the North York Moors was agriculture. The rural scene, which attracts millions of visitors to

8058-424: The remoteness of the area, a lone walker might not encounter another during the one to two day journey. Cowley issued a challenge to see if anyone could walk from Scarth Wood Moor at the western extremity of the moors to Ravenscar on the coast, keeping on or close to the main watershed of the moorland , in a twenty-four-hour period. The first crossing was completed shortly afterwards on 1 and 2 October 1955. Cowley

8160-461: The route taken and can be completed over two or three days. Alfred Wainwright suggested the walk could form an acceptable finish to his Coast to Coast Walk but did not specify if he recommends doing the 40 miles (64 km) in a single push. There is no record of Wainwright completing the walk. There are no constraints on doing the walk in a more leisurely manner and a guide to doing the walk over four days has been published. The first Lyke Wake Club

8262-399: The rules, as Cowley stated "No one who is going to do this Walk is going to cheat, the satisfactions of crossing successfully are entirely for the individual". Once the route became established as a clear track, the Lyke Wake Club considered the possibility of holding a race. The first Lyke Wake Race was held in 1964 and was held annually on the nearest Saturday to 10 July (except 2001 when it

8364-526: The sandstones of the high moorland and the youngest layers of limestone form the Tabular Hills. In the dales, where the rivers have cut through the younger rocks, there are also exposures of older shales, ironstone and sandstone. Rosedale is an example of this. During the Quaternary period , the last 2 million years, the area has experienced a sequence of glaciations . The most recent glaciation,

8466-402: The sea in an easterly direction is thought to be easier because of the prevailing wind from the west making it easier to walk with the wind on one's back and with the heather lying away from the walker. On a west to east crossing, the major ascents and descents occur in the first ten miles when the walker is relatively fresh. A traverse of the Lyke Wake Walk route is referred to as a crossing and

8568-491: The self-inflicted suffering of participants undertaking the 40-mile (64 km) walk. Club membership was/is granted on submission of a written report of a successful crossing and entitles successful walkers to a membership card in the form of a black-edged condolence card bearing the club crest, a black coffin. Many crossing reports are humorous and in various forms including prose, poetry, maps, post-mortem reports, last wills and testaments, plays, etc., some of which are quoted in

8670-420: The settlements took the form of isolated farms and hamlets rather than villages. Very few had an open field system of agriculture so Enclosure Acts were rarer than in other parts of England. The 17th century saw a major acceleration in the reclaiming of marginal waste land and in the eighteenth century forward looking landlords attempted to improve their lands using drainage schemes and fertilisation measures. In

8772-510: The soul's passage through the afterlife. The walk does not follow a corpse road , although it has been suggested it does, though there is no historical or archaeological evidence for it. The physical challenge, possibility of bad weather and difficult conditions make the dirge an appropriate club song. The club established its own culture and developed traditions based around the dirge, aspects of Cleveland history, superstitions and folklore, and rituals associated with suffering, death, funerals and

8874-685: The southern boundary of the North York Moors area. The Esk Valley Line is an east-west branch line rail link from Whitby to Middlesbrough in the north, and the North Yorkshire Moors steam railway runs from Pickering to Grosmont with a link to Whitby. Other public transport within the North York Moors includes a number of bus services. Yorkshire Coastliner route 840 runs from Whitby to Pickering (and continues to York and Leeds), Arriva North East routes X93 and X94 run from Scarborough to Middlesbrough via Whitby and Guisborough, Arriva North East route 95 runs from Whitby to Lealholm along

8976-711: The station. Space Delta 4 of the United States Space Force , maintains a liaison officer at Fylingdales to act as link to US missile warning operations and advises the RAF station commander on operational issues. The secondary role of detection and tracking of orbiting objects, also called Space Situational Awareness (SSA), as part of the United States Space Surveillance Network is carried out in conjunction with RAF High Wycombe . The primary radars of RAF Fylingdales are active electronically scanned array (AESA) phased array radars, mounted on each face of

9078-419: The viability of hill farming has become questionable. A number of environmental schemes to improve farm incomes have been devised but the industry continues to decline. Agricultural use of the moors is shared with grouse shooting as a means of gaining financial return from the vast expanse of heather. There is richer farmland across the southern limestone belt, where there are arable and mixed farms as well as

9180-860: The walk route on maps at the recommendation of the National Park Authority, as a measure to discourage large numbers undertaking a crossing and the walk was not mentioned in National Park Authority publication for a number of years. Alternative challenge walks and trails include the Hambleton Hobble, the Shepherd's Round, the White Rose Walk , the Lyke Wake Way, the Monk's Trod, the Rail Trail, Hambleton Drove Road,

9282-429: The walk's 50th anniversary. A new club has been established – not without controversy – to preserve the traditions established by Cowley and take over the old club's functions of recording crossings, holding wakes and liaising with public authorities. The New Lyke Wake Club's activities have included donating funds to the North York Moors National Park young explorers conservation group, Cleveland Search and Rescue Team, and

9384-435: The waste and what remained of the forest and in the process gave the moors the distinctive landscape that still remains. Between 1536 and 1541, Henry VIII of England dissolved the monasteries, and confiscated and sold off their property. This was bought by individual people, some rich, but also some who had been tenants of the monasteries, and became privately owned land. In many areas of the moors and their associated dales

9486-404: The water in summer are also a rich source of food for birds. Grey wagtails , swallows and spotted flycatchers are commonly seen. Dippers and kingfishers are also typical. The otter , after a period of decline, is starting to recolonise the rivers and streams. Farndale is famous for its wild daffodils in spring. Sheltered woodlands dominated by sessile oaks can be found to the south of

9588-457: The western end of Eskdale, the valley divides into three smaller dales, Westerdale (the upper valley of the River Esk), Baysdale and Commondale . A series of side dales drain into Eskdale from the moorland on its southern side, from west to east Danby Dale, Little Fryup Dale , Great Fryup Dale , Glaisdale and the Goathland valley. Kildale , west of Commondale and separated only by

9690-529: Was both drunk and having a mental breakdown when making the threat. The Northern Echo states that Fylingdales is guarded by 80 military policemen, however RAF Fylingdales is guarded by the Ministry of Defence Guard Service (approx 19 officers) and Ministry of Defence Police (approx 60–100 officers ) neither of which operate under a military capacity. The station has a checkpoint by the A169 roadside and further checkpoints at each of its fences. The outer fence

9792-565: Was built by the Radio Corporation of America (RCA) in 1962, and was maintained by RCA (Great Britain), now Serco Group plc . RAF Fylingdales consisted of three 130-foot (40 m) diameter 'golfballs' or geodesic domes ( radomes ) containing mechanically steered radar . Operation of the Fylingdales site transferred to RAF Fighter Command on 15 January 1964 although the site became operational on 17 September 1963. It became

9894-528: Was cancelled because of an outbreak of foot-and-mouth disease ) until 2014, its 50th anniversary when the organisers ceased to be involved. In 2015, the race continued with the organisation undertaken by the Quakers Running Club. It has been held every July since, until the 2020 edition was cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic , resuming in 2022. The first race was organised to coincide with

9996-521: Was compounded by the walk sharing long stretches of its route with the Cleveland Way and Wainwright's Coast to Coast Walk . Other users, some legal, some illegal, including mountain bikes, motor cycles, quad bikes and agricultural and moorland management vehicles exacerbated the problem. Alternative routes are possible and the walk club works with the National Park authority to try to limit environmental damage. The Ordnance Survey no longer marks

10098-410: Was formed immediately on completion of the first crossing. Those completing the first crossing were its foundation members. The walk takes its name from the " Lyke-Wake Dirge ", probably Yorkshire's oldest surviving dialect verse, which is about watching over the wake of the corpse (lyke) . Cowley proposed linking the walk and the dirge before the first crossing had been completed. The song tells of

10200-418: Was in the party that made the crossing in 23 hours and he wrote a book, Lyke Wake Walk , which he kept up to date by frequent revision. The book ran to twelve editions in the author's lifetime and sold many thousands of copies. It was revised in 2001 by Paul Sherwood. Cowley's idea developed over the years before he issued the challenge in 1955. He wrote a poem in 1935/6, Storming Along , describing traversing

10302-485: Was mined in Rosedale. A railway was built around the top of the dale to serve the mines, and kilns were built to process the ore. In two decades the population of the valley rose from 558 to nearly 3000. Poor-quality coal was mined in many places on the moors from the 18th century to the early 20th century. The North York Moors is the only source for British jet . It has been mined in the area from prehistoric times but

10404-592: Was upgraded in 2007 by Boeing to the Raytheon AN/FPS-132 Upgraded Early Warning Radar (UEWR). In the late 1990s, the United States decided to pursue a National Missile Defense plan fully, and RAF Fylingdales attracted further publicity. To improve tracking capabilities (for launches from Africa and the Middle East ) the United States wanted the use of Fylingdales as part of its NMD network. After receiving

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