47-593: M11 or M-11 may refer to: Aviation [ edit ] Miles M.11 Whitney Straight , a 1936 two-seater light aircraft Shvetsov M-11 , an aircraft engine produced in the Soviet Union Science [ edit ] Messier 11 (M11), an open star cluster also known as the Wild Duck Cluster Mathieu group M11 in the mathematical field of group theory Ritter M11 UltraClave,
94-768: A Metropolitan Route in Durban, South Africa M11 (Bloemfontein) , a Metropolitan Route in Bloemfontein, South Africa M11 (Port Elizabeth) , a Metropolitan Route in Port Elizabeth, South Africa M11 motorway in England M11 motorway (Pakistan) Sialkot - Lahore Motorway in Pakistan the Moscow–Saint Petersburg motorway , designated M11 Highway M11 (Ukraine) M11 motorway, portion of
141-521: A United States military designation for the SIG Sauer P228 semi-automatic pistol Ingram MAC-11 , a sub-compact machine pistol M-11 Shtorm , a 1959 Russian naval surface-to-air missile system Fiat M11/39 , an Italian medium tank used during World War II Grigorovich M-11 , a 1916 Russian single-seat fighter flying boat Mk 11 Mod 0 Sniper Weapon System, a variant of the SR-25 used by
188-594: A bolted sport climbing M8. The American Alpine Club (republished in 2013) listed the following description of Scottish winter grades: The following mixed climbs are particularly notable in the evolution of mixed climbing grade milestones and mixed climbing standards. Many leading female mixed climbers are competition ice climbers from the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup tour, however, despite their smaller grouping, on occasions, female mixed climbers have set grade milestones that closely matched
235-409: A broad range of types. Some mixed climbing routes are combinations of an ice climbing route (i.e. a large frozen icicle, frozen alpine couloirs, or frozen water cascade) and a dry-tooling route (i.e. need to pass a rock overhang or rock roof to get to the frozen ice part); these routes have both a full mixed climbing grade (M-grade) and a full ice climbing grade ( WI-grade ). Examples of such routes are
282-449: A favourable reputation due to, amongst other feats, the company's aircraft having been front runners in the King's Cup Race , thus the company was viewed by Straight as a natural partner for his envisioned aircraft. Upon being approached by Straight, Miles concurred with his aims, thus the two decided to collaborate on the development and marketing of such an aircraft, which was designated as
329-652: A fixed main undercarriage complete with aerodynamic fairings, along with a fixed tailwheel. Relatively comfortable accommodation for its pilot, a single passenger and their luggage, was provided within an enclosed 'side-by-side' cockpit. The cockpit was covered by a single-piece canopy comprising molded Perspex . The wings of the Whitney Straight were relatively thick for the era; considerable effort had been put into their design to carefully define their drag properties. The wings were fitted with vacuum -operated split flaps ; these were attributed as having enabled
376-620: A manifesto titled "Spurs are for Horses, and Tools Are For Your Hands", which stated "A route climbed by sitting on your tool, hooking a tool with your knees or spurs or even using spurs is an aid climb". Competition ice climbing began to regulate the use of tools, including heel spurs, tool length, and tool leashes (which can be used for resting or to help with upward momentum). In 2012, mixed-climber Ryan Nelson wrote an article in Rock & Ice titled "Is mixed climbing still legitimate?". Scottish climber Dave MacLeod told Nelson, "Modern-mixed
423-696: A model of autoclave made by Midmark Transportation [ edit ] M-11 , a state highway in the metropolitan area of Grand Rapids, Michigan M11 (East London) , a Metropolitan Route in East London, South Africa M11 (Cape Town) , a Metropolitan Route in Cape Town, South Africa M11 (Johannesburg) , a Metropolitan Route in Johannesburg, South Africa M11 (Pretoria) , a Metropolitan Route in Pretoria, South Africa M11 (Durban) ,
470-400: A pure ice climb (i.e. not enough ice). Mixed climbing is also closely related to the sport of dry-tooling , which was developed by mixed climbers doing routes with no snow or ice, but still using the tools and techniques of mixed climbing; mixed climbs that have no ice are sometimes given a "D" prefix instead of an "M" prefix in their grade. There has been debate as to whether mixed climbing
517-506: A single 130 hp (97 kW) de Havilland Gipsy Major I piston engine, alternative powerplants, such as the Villiers Maya and Menasco Pirate engines, were also used. While a fixed-pitch propeller was used on most aircraft, at least one aircraft was furnished with a variable-pitch propeller that, amongst other benefits, further shortened the takeoff distance required and boosted its initial rate of climb. The Whitney Straight
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#1732764862764564-814: A standalone sport came to prominence in 1994 when American climber Jeff Lowe climbed the roof of Octopussy (WI6, M8) in Vail, Colorado , creating the world's first M8-graded mixed climb. In 2014, Rock & Ice credited Lowe's 1994 ascent with effectively inventing the sport of mixed climbing. Lowe's ascent led to an increase in interest in mixed climbing, and from 1994 to 2003 levels of difficulty rose sharply from M8 to M13, driven by mixed-climbing pioneers such as Stevie Haston in Europe (particularly in Val di Cogne ), and Will Gadd in North America (particularly in
611-422: A thin layer of ice and/or snow. While alpinists have used mixed climbing techniques for decades (most north-facing alpine routes are iced or snow-covered), it came to prominence with Jeff Lowe 's ascent of the partially bolted Octopussy (WI6, M8 R) in 1994. Mixed climbing also led to the sport of dry-tooling , which is mixed climbing on routes that are completely free of all ice or snow. The equipment used —
658-517: Is a climbing discipline used on routes that do not have enough ice to be pure ice climbs , but are also not dry enough to be pure rock climbs . To ascend the route, the mixed climber uses ice climbing equipment (e.g. double ice tools and crampons ), but to protect the route, they use both rock-climbing equipment and ice climbing equipment. Mixed climbing varies from routes with sections of thick layers of ice and sections of bare rock, to routes that are mostly bare rock but which are "iced-up" in
705-509: Is covered in a thin layer of ice and snow (e.g. as found in Scottish mixed climbing), thus making pure rock or ice climbing techniques impossible. The mixed climber uses their ice axe and crampons to advance up the route by inserting them into small cracks and edges on the iced-up rock. They use the equipment of a traditional climbing rock climber for climbing protection , as there will be limited possibilities to use ice screws to protect
752-410: Is definitely approaching stagnation", and "Ditching heel spurs will no doubt give it another gasp of life, but it only puts it off a year or two. The reason is, of course, that [climbing] a full ropelength of horizontal roof on tiny hooks is relatively easy". While the evolution of grade milestones in mixed climbing has tapered since 2003, leading mixed climbers such as Raphel Slawinski have highlighted
799-459: Is different from Wikidata All article disambiguation pages All disambiguation pages Miles M.11 Whitney Straight The Miles M.11 Whitney Straight was a 1930s twin-seat cabin monoplane designed and produced by the British aircraft manufacturer Miles Aircraft . It was named after Whitney Straight , a Grand Prix motor racing driver, aviator and businessman. The aircraft
846-495: Is more akin to aid climbing , rather than the more desirable style of free climbing , due to its use of mechanical tools on natural rock. This has led to increased oversight on allowable tools (e.g. use of heel spurs, length of axes, and use of leashes for resting or to help with upward momentum, etc.); and most ice climbing competitions no longer allow leashes and regulate the use of heel spurs (e.g. if allowed at all, they cannot be used for resting). Mixed climbing routes can cover
893-414: Is used as Scottish winter climbs use traditional climbing protection, placing greater strains on the climber. British mixed-climber Ian Parnell wrote in his guide to Scottish winter climbing that Scottish grades are almost two levels above M-grades, and thus a Scottish VIII, 8 is similar to an M6; but that an on-sight of a Scottish VIII, 8 using traditional climbing protection, is similar in difficulty to
940-472: The American Alpine Club (republished in 2013) who note: "These [mixed climbing] routes require considerable dry tooling (modern ice tools used on bare rock) and are climbed in crampons; actual ice is optional but some ice is usually involved": In his 1996 book, Ice World , Jeff Lowe ranked his new M-grades to the level of physical exertion needed on a free rock climb; Lowe estimated that M8
987-563: The Fleet Air Arm between 1940 and 1943, while three were reportedly used by the Royal New Zealand Air Force . Between 1939 and 1943, a New Zealand-based aircraft, piloted by Alan Prichard , participated in aerial seed sowing trials at Ninety Mile Beach , and was subsequently used for spreading superphosphate . These trials were part of the experiments which led to the development of aerial topdressing and
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#17327648627641034-490: The M.11 Whitney Straight . Work on the project proceeded at a relatively rapid pace, enabling the first prototype ( G-AECT ) to conduct its maiden flight at Woodley Aerodrome on 14 May 1936. Initially piloted by F.G. Miles, the prototype demonstrated the design to already be fulfilling expectations, particularly in regards to its ease of flight and comfort, while also achieving a 50 per cent speed increase over its biplane contemporaries. Having been sufficiently pleased with
1081-994: The N11 road in Ireland M11 (New South Wales) , the NorthConnex motorway tunnel in Sydney, Australia Mornington Peninsula Freeway in Victoria, Australia designated M11 New York City Bus M11 , a New York City Bus route in Manhattan M11 (Istanbul Metro) , a rapid transit line of the Istanbul Metro M11 road (Zambia) , a road in Zambia M11 road (Malawi) , a road in Malawi Firearms and military equipment [ edit ] M11,
1128-405: The 1937 King's Cup Race alone, one of the type placed second, while another came in fourth. Several Whitney Straights were also modified as engine test beds, as well as to test different flap designs. On 28 June 1938, the sole M.11C ( G-AEYI ) to be built crashed at Harefield, Berkshire, resulting in the death of its test pilot, Wing Commander F.W. Stent. Efforts were made by Miles to promote
1175-993: The American mixed climbing route, Octopussy (WI6, M8), Silent Memories (WI6, M9) in Italy, or French Reality (M7-, WI6+) in Canada. Other types of mixed climbing routes have no material 'ice climbing' sections per se (and thus have no substantive WI-grade). Such routes are effectively rock routes but where the rock is covered in a thin layer of ice and/or snow that makes normal rock climbing techniques impossible. Examples of such routes include many Scottish winter climbs, such as Wailing Wall (Scottish mixed climbing grade XI, 9) or Banana Wall (Scottish mixed climbing grade XII, 12), or North West Passage (M11) in Montana. While alpine climbers and Scottish winter climbers have used mixed climbing techniques for decades, mixed climbing as
1222-636: The Fang Amphitheater in Vail , and in the Cineplex Cave in Alberta ). In 2003, Italian climber Mauro Bole [ de ] finding he was too short for the crux on The Game (M13) in Cineplex Cave, lengthened his tools and completed it. This led to implications that mixed-climbing was akin to aid climbing . A similar debate had been boiling over on 'heel spurs', which Gadd had stopped using (calling it "barebacking"), and writing
1269-730: The United States Navy Remington 11-87 , a semi-automatic shotgun Panhard ULTRAV M11, a reconnaissance variant of the Véhicule Blindé Léger marketed to the US Army Other [ edit ] M11, an abbreviation used to refer to the 11 March 2004 Madrid train bombings Change 2011 , a Finnish political party which advocates direct democracy M-11 (comics) , a fictional robot in Atlas Comics and Marvel Comics Magic 2011 ,
1316-818: The Whitney Straight to military customers, including its pre-war submission as an army cooperation aircraft for the British Army . Shortly following the outbreak of the Second World War , the Air Ministry impressed 23 Whitney Straights into military service, in which capacity they were operated as communications aircraft. Twenty-one such aircraft were based in Britain, while one was stationed in India , and another in Egypt . At least one M.11A also served with
1363-513: The civil market, such as air racing and aerial topdressing . Approaches were also made by Miles to introduce the Whitney Straight into the military market. While not selected as an army cooperation aircraft for the British Army in the pre-war years, numerous civil aircraft were impressed into military service during the Second World War , the type being largely operated as a communications aircraft. While production ended in 1937, several Whitney Straights remained in an airworthy condition into
1410-410: The climber's face), and of gently balancing the front points of their crampons on thin holds. The grading of mixed routes approximates the ice climbing WI-system up to grade M6, but they then diverge as mixed routes become very overhanging and eventually turn into roofs (ice is not normally overhanging). M-grades do not take into account the "danger" of the route (i.e. how good is the protection in
1457-531: The envisioned aircraft to be considerably faster that the slow moving biplanes that traditionally dominated the market. It was also desirable for such a plane to feature a side-by-side seating arrangement in an enclosed cockpit, rather than an open cockpit that necessitated the cumbersome use of speaking tubes , in addition to more general attributes such as being reasonably easy to handle, safe to fly, and economic to both maintain and operate. By this point, F.G. Miles of Philips and Powis had already established
M11 - Misplaced Pages Continue
1504-638: The event of a fall), but focus on the technical and physical challenge of the route, and is more akin to the French and US sport climbing grades, although per the US system, the " R/X " suffix is used for danger. Some M-graded climbs are given an alternative D-grade prefix where there is no ice on the route, and it is effectively dry-tooling (e.g. the Swiss climb Iron Man is quoted as being M14+ but also D14+). The following M-grades and descriptions are provided by
1551-459: The first prototype's early performance, quantity production of the Whitney Straight commenced as soon as possible, a state which was reportedly achieved by April 1936. Seeking to promote the type, F.G. Miles personally performed an intense tour around Europe to demonstrate and promote the Whitney Straight to potential customers; amongst the feats of the tour was a 17,000ft flight above the Alps without
1598-573: The lengths of ice tools and the use of heel spurs and ice axe leashes — has become more regulated to avoid concerns of being more like aid climbing than free climbing . Mixed climbing routes are graded for difficulty on an M-grade system, and the development of specialized mixed climbing techniques (e.g. stein pulls and figure-four moves ), and equipment (e.g. fruit boots , heel spurs , and advanced ergo ice axes), led to dramatic increases in mixed climbing grade milestones, particularly from 1994 to 2003, and have been credited with pushing standards in
1645-652: The positive effect of mixed climbing on overall standards in alpine climbing. Other alpine climbers such as Steve House have cautioned that the reliance on fully bolted sport climbing routes for the highest M-grades has not yet led to a discernable impact on general standards in alpine climbing. Mixed climbing started by using existing ice climbing equipment for upward momentum (e.g. double ice axes and crampons), and for protection (e.g. ice screws ), and also existing traditional rock climbing equipment (e.g. nuts , hexcentrics and cams ) or sport climbing equipment (e.g. bolts and quickdraws ) for additional protection. As
1692-522: The proliferation of aircraft for agricultural purposes . While not produced in large numbers, examples of the type have frequently had particularly lengthy operating lives. At least one aircraft remained in an airworthy condition. Data from: British civil aircraft 1919-1972 Volume III Data from Miles Aircraft since 1925 , British Civil Aircraft 1919–1972: Volume III General characteristics Performance Related development Related lists Mixed climbing Mixed climbing
1739-410: The route (e.g. technical challenge, length, and the level of boldness, physicality, and stamina required). A second Arabic number clarifies the technical difficulty of the hardest move on the route. A climb graded VI, 6 means the technical difficulty of the hardest move is standard for the overall grade, whereas a climb graded VI, 8 denotes the hardest move is above the overall grade. This dual-grade
1786-439: The route. It has also become common to find single-pitch mixed climbs that are fully bolted in the manner of sport climbing routes. Mixed climbing can also be done as free solo climbing , which is an even risker undertaking. Mixed climbing is closely related to alpine climbing , as many alpine climbing routes have large sections of iced and snow-covered rock that can neither be rock climbed (i.e. too slippery) nor climbed as
1833-573: The sport developed, specialized equipment was created including: As well as using standard techniques of ice climbing (e.g. front pointing ) and of rock climbing (e.g. crack climbing , but with ice axes), mixed climbers have developed a range of techniques that are largely unique to their sport (and the derived sport of dry-tooling). These include: In addition, mixed climbers try to keep their elbows near their sides (i.e. to avoid draining energy in torque and stein pulls), and are very careful in extracting wedged blades (i.e. which can ricochet back into
1880-657: The twelfth core set in Magic: The Gathering M11, a difficulty grade in mixed climbing [REDACTED] Topics referred to by the same term This disambiguation page lists articles associated with the same title formed as a letter–number combination. If an internal link led you here, you may wish to change the link to point directly to the intended article. Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=M11&oldid=1239343117 " Category : Letter–number combination disambiguation pages Hidden categories: Short description
1927-457: The twenty first century. During late 1935, the Grand Prix motor racing driver, aviator and businessman Whitney Straight was engaged in efforts to establish numerous flying clubs to server major British towns. As a part of his efforts to popularise aviation, Straight sought a modern aeroplane that would be best suited for both club flying and use by private owners; specifically, he desired
M11 - Misplaced Pages Continue
1974-419: The type's relatively low takeoff speed of 50 mph, as well as the aircraft's high rate of climb. An alternative flap arrangement, that was noticeably more efficient and produced less drag while increasing lift coefficient, was experimented with during the later years of the prototype's flying career; it directly influenced the design of several subsequent aircraft. While early production aircraft were powered by
2021-432: The use of a supercharger -equipped engine. During April 1938, production of the type was terminated, by which point a total of 50 Whitney Straights had been completed. The Miles M.11 Whitney Straight was a twin-seat monoplane specifically built for use by flying clubs and private owners. Its construction was primarily composed of wood, including spruce frames and three-ply birch covering. The Whitney Straight featured
2068-549: The wider field of alpine climbing. Many modern mixed routes are bolted like sport climbing routes, but some routes require traditional climbing -type protection. Mixed climbing involves using ice climbing equipment (e.g. double ice axes and crampons ) on routes that are not sufficiently covered in ice to be pure ice climbs and have a WI-grade . Mixed climbing routes have significant elements that are pure rock, which in some cases may be completely dry (e.g. as found on some North American mixed climbing routes), but in many cases
2115-459: Was equivalent to 5.12 ( American Yosemite Decimal System ). Other authors have tried to align M-grades with rock climbing grades, and now equate M8 to 5.10/5.11, however, there is some variation and no consensus that such comparisons are valid. Mixed climbing in Scotland is known as Scottish winter climbing and uses a dual-grading system with a Roman numeral to denote the overall difficulty of
2162-533: Was routinely promoted as possessing a high level of safety, largely as a consequence of its favourable handling characteristics. F.G. Miles frequently performed relatively dramatic demonstrations to validate this claim, closing the throttle while in a steep climb and releasing the controls for the aircraft to return to level flight of its own accord after only a steep dive. Even when flown at relatively low altitudes, its recovery abilities were impressive. Numerous Whitney Straights participated in air racing events; in
2209-553: Was the first to combine a side-by-side seating arrangement with an enclosed cockpit for the general aviation sector. The Whitney Straight was developed after F.G. Miles and Straight recognised that they had similar ambitions to develop modern aircraft suited to flying clubs and private owners alike, and thus decided to collaborate on its production. On 14 May 1936, the first prototype conducted its maiden flight at Woodley Aerodrome ; quantity production commenced shortly thereafter. Whitney Straights were used in various roles within
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