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Shalwar kameez

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Shalwar kameez (also salwar kameez and less commonly shalwar qameez ) is a traditional combination dress worn by men and women in South Asia , and Central Asia .

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81-423: Shalwars are trousers which are atypically wide at the waist and narrow to a cuffed bottom. They are held up by a drawstring or elastic belt, which causes them to become pleated around the waist. The trousers can be wide and baggy, or they can be cut quite narrow, on the bias . Shalwars have been traditionally worn in a wide region which includes Eastern Europe, West Asia, Central Asia, and South Asia. The kameez

162-503: A Punjabi Ghagra when going outdoors. The Punjabi ghagra has its origins in the candataka which continued as a popular female dress in the seventh century. The use of the svasthana was also popular in this period. However, the candataka ended at the thighs and the svasthana may have been used to cover the lower legs thus giving rise to the tradition of wearing the ghagra and the suthan together. Older Punjabi women wore churidar pajama and long kurta. These different styles were popular during

243-690: A (rumal) handkerchief, and for the protection from the heat of sun, while during winters locally wool made shawls of different styles like Loi, Katho, Khes etc are used for warming. Sindhi women of Sindh wear Salwar/Suthan which is almost similar those worn by men, but back in time some women of lower Sindh used to wear a very baggy Salwars called "Chareno" but these are not normally worn anymore. Many Sindhi women also wore churidar pajamo (Sohri Suthan). Traditional Sindhi women Suthan and Pajamo are made of bright colours and rich fabrics like soosi , silk , satin , velvets and brocades which are heavily embroidered at ankles (Pācha). The Salwars are worn with

324-414: A flared shirt and partug means pants. The chador is the head scarf which can be of varying lengths. Firaq refers to the upper garment which flows out from the waist, like a skirt, with some styles reaching to the ankles and other styles reaching below the knees. The firaq is also called qameez. Partug is a type of shalwar and is the lower garment which is baggy, gathered at the ankles and tied around

405-471: A short kurta is referred to as the kurti. However, traditionally, the kurti is a short cotton coat (without side slits) and is believed to have descended from the tunic of the Shunga period (2nd century B.C.). The local style of kurti also includes the type that flares out around the waist. The traditional Punjabi kurti is front opening and is buttoned. Traditionally, a chain of gold or silver called zanjiri

486-576: A very baggy Salwars called "Chareno" but these are not normally worn now. Many Sindhi women also wore churidar pajamo (Sohri Suthan). Traditional Sindhi women Suthan and Pajamo are made of bright colors and rich fabrics like soosi , silk , satin , velvets and brocades which are heavily embroidered at ankles (Pācha). The Salwars are worn with the Cholo (kameez) or Ghagho (frock) which are also heavily intricately embroidered with Sindhi bhart and other embellishments called Gaj, Aggoti, Gichi , back in time

567-408: Is a long shirt or tunic.The side seams are left open below the waist-line (the opening known as the chaak ), which gives the wearer greater freedom of movement. The kameez is usually cut straight and flat; older kameez use traditional cuts; modern kameez are more likely to have European-inspired set-in sleeves . The kameez may have a European-style collar, a Mandarin collar, or it may be collarless; in

648-460: Is a remnant of the 11th-century female kurtaka which was a shirt extending to the middle of the body with side slits worn in parts of north India which has remained a traditional garment for women in Punjab, albeit longer than the kurtaka. The suthan was traditionally worn with a long kurta but can also be worn with a short kurti or frocks. Modern versions of the kurta can be knee length. The head scarf

729-631: Is a traditional garment in Afghanistan worn by men as the Khet partug outfit. The Khet is the tunic, similar to a robe and the partoog is the Afghanistan salwar, with multiple pleats. The male dress also includes the perahan tunban . The Pathani suit has become popular since the 1990s. The female Punjabi suit is also popular in Afghanistan which is called the Panjabi. The outfit predates

810-524: Is a variation of the ancient svasthana, and was still popular in the Punjab region in the 19th century. The tight suthan is baggy from the knees up and tight from the knees down to the ankles (a remnant of the tight fit ancient svasthana). The tight suthan remained popular in the East Punjab into the 1960s. In Multan , the tight suthan remained popular till the early 21st century. The Punjabi suthan

891-403: Is also loose, and traditionally is long, with long sleeves. The present Balochi shalwar kameez replaced the earlier version which consisted of a robe to the ankles and a shalwar using cloth of up to 40 yards. The Pashtuns in northern Balochistan wear clothes similar to the styles worn in Afghanistan. The female Balochi suit consists of the head scarf, long dress and a shalwar. In Kashmir ,

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972-626: Is also popular in Afghanistan, where it is called the Punjabi. Another common type of Punjabi shalwar kameez is the Patiala salwar which has many folds and originates in the city of Patiala . Another style of the Punjabi suit is the use of the shalwar which hails from the Pothohar region of Punjab, Pakistan and is known as the Pothohari shalwar. The Pothohari shalwar retains the wideness of

1053-764: Is also traditionally long but again, modern versions are shorter. The outfit in Jammu is the Dogri kurta and suthan . When the tight part of the suthan, up to the knees, has multiple close fitting folds, the suthan is referred to as Dogri pants or suthan, in Jammu, and churidar suthan in the Punjab region and some parts of Himachal Pradesh . The traditional Sindhi Shalwar Kameez or (Suthan ain Khamis) in Sindhi are of different styles, The Sindhi Shalwar worn by men are of three types, one

1134-676: Is being used in government offices in Pakistan. Salwar can be distinguished from the Punjabi suthan which is shorter than the salwar. Shalwar is a lower garment, with different regions having different types. The earliest form of the shalwar originated in Central Asia and its use was spread to South Asia as well as the Arab world, Turkey and wherever the Turks established their empires in

1215-422: Is called Suthan/Salwar which is wide at waist and gets narrow below the knees till ankles where there are loosely fitted (Pācha) cuffs, it is worn mostly in upper/north of Sindh. The second type of Shalwar is (Kancha) which used to be worn usually in lower/south of Sindh and was wide down the knees till ankles where there are wider ankles (Pācha), Kancha is mostly not worn anymore or if ever worn then it does not have

1296-410: Is called sussi. Sussi was manufactured in various places such as Hoshiarpur , Amritsar , Multan and Jhang . Instead of the Punjabi salwar paunchay at the bottom of the salwar, which are loose, the Punjabi suthan is gathered midway between the knees and the ankles to fit closely to the leg and end in a tight band at the ankles which is what distinguishes the two lower garments. The tight band of

1377-409: Is cited as an inspiration. Since the creation of India and Pakistan , women of the meo community of Rajasthan have adopted the salwar called khusni which, like the Punjabi suthan, is tight below the knees and loose above and is worn with a long kameez. Punjabi women wore the suthan with a kurta, kurti, kameez or jhaga. The kurti could be straight cut ending at the waist or be a mini version of

1458-462: Is cloth worn from the waist to the ankles, covering both legs separately. It is the lower-garment of the shalwar kameez suit which is widely-worn in South Asia. It is known for its lively hues, rich fabrics, and embroidery. The outfit has been a part of Punjabi tradition of India and Pakistan for centuries. It is also the national dress of Pakistan , and since the later 1960s, the salwar

1539-448: Is loose to the lower legs and very tight at the ankles. The salwar ends in a band which is loose fitting. Despite this difference, people use the words suthan and salwar interchangeably to refer to loose suthans and salwars, with the loose suthan resembling the salwar. Prior to the use of the term pajama , the term suthan was used. Therefore, the woollen pajamas of Gilgit are also referred to as suthan . However, these are not of

1620-441: Is made up of two rectangular pieces sewn together with side slits, similar to a tunic . A kurta is also worn. The salwar is similar to pajamas or pants, wide at the top and tightened loosely around the ankles with hard material, called paunchay . In the Punjab, the salwar kameez is also known as the chunni jhagga salwar suit. In some parts of the Punjab region , especially the urban areas of Punjab, Pakistan , males wear

1701-471: Is now a everydays clothing of Sindhi men. The clothes are adorned with Ajrak and topi or Patko (Turbans), but usually on everyday life, a various colored floral or checkered piece of cloth on shoulder or as turban, also used as a handkerchief, and for the protection from the heat of sun. Women in Sindh wear Salwar/Suthan which is almost similar to men, but back in time some women of lower Sindh used to wear

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1782-455: Is part of male and female attire and is part of traditional dress in the hills of Punjab, Pakistan , including Bannu . It is still a traditional garment in Jammu where it is held in high regard. The Gaddi community wear the garment, especially in Pathankot and Nurpur ( Gurdaspur District ).Its variation known as the churidar suthan is worn in the Punjab mountainous region especially by

1863-500: Is the khalqa (gown) which opens at the front, or shirt which does not open at the front, and the Peshawari shalwar which is very loose down to the ankles. The Peshawari shalwar can be used with a number of upper garments and is part of the clothing of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa . The clothing of Balochistan, Pakistan includes the shalwar kameez which when worn by males consists of a very baggy shalwar using large lengths of cloth. The kameez

1944-549: Is very wide and baggy with many voluminous folds. The material traditionally used for the Bahawalpuri shalwar and suthan is known as Sufi which is a mixture of cotton warp mixed with silk weft and gold threads running down the material. The other name for these types of mixed cloth is shuja khani. The Bahawalpuri shalwar is worn with the Bahawalpur style kameez, the Punjabi kurta or chola. The Multani shalwar, also known as

2025-488: Is widely-worn by men and women in Pakistan, and is the country's national dress . It is also widely worn by men and women in Afghanistan, and some men in the Punjab region of India, from which it has been adopted by women throughout India, and more generally in South Asia . When women wear the shalwar-kameez in some regions, they usually wear a long scarf or shawl called a dupatta around the head or neck. In South Asia,

2106-408: Is woven into the buttons. The use of the kurti by women has been noted during the 1600s to the present day. The kurti can be front opening from below the neck to the waist, or cover the back but leave the stomach exposed with some styles fastening at the back. A variation of the kurti, known as a bandi , is sleeveless and is worn as a pullover with no side slits and front opening. A longer version of

2187-551: The Anarkali suit is named after the court dancer from Lahore , Pakistan. This suit has a timeless style which has become very popular. It is made up of a long, frock-style top and features a slim fitted bottom. This style of suit links the Indian subcontinent with the women's firaq partug (frock and shalwar) of northwestern Pakistan and Afghanistan and to the traditional women's clothing of parts of Central Asia . It also links to

2268-441: The Punjab region of South Asia, which includes parts of India and Pakistan. It consists of a long tunic or shirt, typically with long sleeves and a loose fit, paired with loose-fitting pants called salwar. The outfit is often accompanied by a scarf or stole, known as a dupatta, which is draped over the head or shoulders. The Punjabi Kameez is known for its vibrant colors, intricate embroidery, and rich fabrics, which vary depending on

2349-421: The Punjab region . However, the Pothohari salwar suit did not attain universal acceptance. The Bahawalpuri salwar is also wide and baggy with many folds. The material traditionally used for the Bahawalpuri shalwar and suthan is known as Sufi, which is a mixture of cotton warp mixed with silk weft and gold threads running down the material. The Punjabi Kameez is a traditional outfit worn by both men and women in

2430-513: The Scythians , and it has evolved with regional variations, reflecting the diverse cultural heritage of the Pashtun people. The styles vary according to region and tribe, Kuchis , Wazirs , Khattaks , Peshawaris , and Kakars all have their own style of Firaq Partug. The outfits consists of three garments: chador , firaq and partug. The word Firaq partug comes from pashto . Firaq means

2511-588: The 'ghaire wali' or 'Saraiki ghaire wali' shalwar as it is very wide around the waist, originates from the Multan area of the Punjab region. The style is similar to the Sindhi kancha shalwar as both are derivatives of the pantaloon shalwar worn in Iraq and adopted in these locations during the 7th century A.D. The Multani shalwar is very wide, baggy, and full, and has folds like the Punjabi suthan. The upper garments include

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2592-530: The 12th century. The Ottomans spread the use of the salwar throughout its empire. Salwar was brought in South Asia after the arrival of Muslims in the 13th century. It was first worn by Mughal nobles. The use of the salwar in the Punjab region has been the result of influences from the Middle East, Central Asian Turks and finally, the Afghans. In Punjab, there is a similar but older dress similar to

2673-526: The 16th and 18th centuries C.E. in Multan The Multani salwar is similar to the loose Punjabi suthan. Therefore, the distinction between the loose Punjabi suthan and the loose Multani salwar is fine and centres on the tight ankle band in the suthan, and on the suthan beginning to fit closer to the legs below the knees. The original Punjabi loose salwar was not as baggy as the Multani style but

2754-463: The 1870s by Sir Pratap Singh of Jodhpur offer a striking slim line resemblance to the centuries-old tight Punjabi suthan, although the churidar is cited as its source. The tight pantaloon style suthan was popular with the Indian Cavalry during the 19th and early 20th centurie; they were dyed in Multani mutti or mitti (clay/ fuller's earth ), which gave the garments a yellow colour. The kurta

2835-521: The 1960s in East Punjab . Certain members of the Punjabi community however, were wearing the suthan and kurti on its own without the Punjabi Ghagra , a tradition documented in the Gazetter of Hoshiarpur District 1883-84 and also in the 1915 Hissar Gazetteer Punjabi women (and men) also wore the ghutanna, a type of pajama which was shorter than the full length pajama, and was tight and ended at

2916-583: The Angelo, Pehran and Khamis men wear Ganji (vest) which is also heavily embroidered with Sindhi stitches and mirrors. During British Raj , the colllars were introduced in Sindh, the Sindhi men started wearing Pehran with collars and buttons, also during that time the english long coats and jackets were introduced which were worn over local clothing. The upper garment of Sindhi men was mostly short either till hips or till midway to thighs, except for some rich men, but

2997-477: The Cholo (tunics) or Ghagho, Abho (different frocks) which are also heavily intricately embroidered with Sindhi bhart and other embellishments called Gaj, Aggoti, Gichi, back in time the Salwars were used to be hidden under a wide Paro/ Peshgeer (Skirt), specially when a women went outside and over the head women wore a wide and long veils called Rawo/Gandhi/Pothi/Chuni/Salur. Salwar Salwar or shalwar

3078-454: The Gujjar community in the foothills of Punjab, India , and Himachal Pradesh whereby the upper part is loose but below the knees, the tight part is sewn in folds to create a bangles look. When worn in Jammu , the suthan is referred to as Dogri pants or Dogri suthan. This is the basis of the churidar pyjama, which in the Punjab region is also known as the (full length) ghuttana which

3159-402: The Indian subcontinent now wear the outfit in its various forms, the outfit was originally only popular on a wide scale in Afghanistan , Khyber Pakhtunkhwa , Sindh , Balochistan and the Punjab region of Indian subcontinent. However, the shalwar kameez has now become popular across the Indian subcontinent. The following are some of the styles of shalwar kameez. The shalwar kameez known as

3240-713: The Khamis is also made of different styles, traditionally Sindhi men used to wear either short or long Angrakho which is tied at either side or in middle, the shorter one was called Angelo, other style was called Kiriyo/Puthiyo, then the short Kurtas called (Pehrān/Pehriyān) were commonly worn, which used to be collarless like Angrakho and was tied at either side or in middle, and had half way slit opening in front unlike angrakhas which used to be completely slitted in front. The Pehrān/Pehriyān were also used to be embroidered with Sindhi bhart and mirrorwork . Above Angelo and Pehrān men also wore (Koti, Sadri , Gidi). During British Raj ,

3321-560: The Punjab region of the Indian subcontinent have brought the dress to the mainstream, and even high-fashion, appeal. The Punjabi suit is popular in other regions of the Indian subcontinent, such as Mumbai and Sindh . The popularity of Punjabi suits in India was extentuated during the 1960s through Hindi cinema. Punjabi suits are also popular among young women in Bangladesh and are especially popular amongst school girls in India. The outfit

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3402-529: The Punjab region, where the Anarkali suit is similar to the anga and the Peshwaz worn in Jammu . The styles of shalwar kameez worn in Afghanistan include various styles of khet partug , perahan tunban and Firaq partug worn by Pashtuns , Tajiks , and Hazaras . The shalwar tends to be loose and rests above the ankles. The traditional dress of Peshawar and other parts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa , Pakistan,

3483-583: The Punjabi kameez and the chola of the Punjab region. An older variety of shalwar kameez of the Punjab region is the Punjabi suthan and kurta suit. The Punjabi suthan is a local variation of the ancient svasthana tight fitting trousers which have been used in the Punjab region since the ancient period and were worn with the tunic called varbana which was tight fitting. The Punjabi suthan is arranged in plaits and uses large amounts of material (traditionally coloured cotton with vertical silk lines, called sussi) of up to 20 yards hanging in many folds. The suthan ends at

3564-414: The Punjabi salwar, has multiple pleats and is very baggy with many folds. The suthan can also be arranged in plaits. Up to 20 yards of cloth can be used which hangs in innumerable folds. Some varieties, such as those of Chakwal , can use between 30 and 40 yards of cloth which are made with overhanging pleats. The material used for the suthan is traditionally coloured cotton with silk lines going down and

3645-406: The Punjabi suthan suit which was made of a head scarf, upper garment and suthan. The Punjabi suthan is of two types: loose to above the ankles and tight at the ankles, or loose to the knees, and then cut straight and tight to the ankles. It was noted by Alberuni in the 11th century C.E. that the local drawers are of gigantic proportions. This could point to the loose Punjabi suthan which, unlike

3726-551: The Punjabi variety. The churidar pajama was also referred to as suthan . The word suthana was also used in Hindi , to refer to pajamas. The use of the suthan in the Punjab region also called suthana in Punjabi is a survival of the ancient svasthana. Svasthana referred to a lower garment which can be described as a type of trousers. The svasthana was in use amongst the rulers in the Mauryan times (322–185 BCE). Evidence of

3807-535: The Salwars were sometimes used to be hidden under a wide Paro/ Peshgeer (Skirt), specially when a women went outside and over the head women wore a wide and long veils called Rawo/Gandhi/Pothi/Chuni/Salur. The traditional male dress in Bangladesh is the lungi and Panjabi . Men also wear a shirt called Kaabli. The traditional female dress is the sari but women also wear the Salwar Kameez . The salwar

3888-519: The anga, which is a gown flowing to below the knees and even to the ankles (akin to the anarkali ) also known as an angarkha and peshwaj which is similar to a loose coat and wadded with cotton. Sometimes women replaced the suthan with a churidar pajama, (a tradition noted by Baden-Powell in 1872 in his book Hand-book of the Manufactures and Arts of the Punjab) which would then be covered with

3969-418: The ankles with a tight band which distinguishes the suthan from a shalwar. The modern equivalent of the loose Punjabi suthan are the cowl pants and dhoti shalwars which have many folds. Some versions of the Punjabi suthan tighten from the knees down to the ankles (a remnant of the svasthana). If a tight band is not used, the ends of the suthan fit closely around the ankles. The Jodhpuri breeches devised during

4050-411: The attire have evolved; the shalwars are worn lower down on the waist, the kameez have shorter lengths, higher splits, lower necklines and backlines, and with cropped sleeves or without sleeves. The shalwar are loose pyjama -like trousers . The legs are wide at the top, and narrow at the ankle. The kameez is a long shirt or tunic, often seen with a Western-style collar; however, for female apparel,

4131-433: The bandi is known as a chemise which has a lace around its hem. Both bandi and chemise traditionally have been worn by women indoors. Somer versions are worn as pullovers with no side slits and font opening. The choli is referred to as kurti in Punjabi which can be half or full sleeved and be hip length. Punjabi women in west Punjab and east Punjab (which includes Haryana and Himachal Pradesh ) traditionally wore

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4212-634: The calf. Although the use of the Suthan subsequently spread to the Jammu area of the Punjab region , Sindh (where it was not traditionally worn) and Kashmir , in the plains of the Punjab region , the suthan was replaced with the Punjabi version of the salwar and the Punjabi kameez which gained more and more popularity during the 1960s. Firaq partug Firaq partug is the traditional clothing of Pashtuns who reside in Pakistan and Afghanistan .The origins of this clothing can be traced back to

4293-446: The colllars were introduced in Sindh, the Sindhi men started wearing Pehran with collars and buttons, also during that time the english long coats and jackets were introduced. The upper garment of Sindhi men was mostly short either till waist or till midway to thighs, except for some men, but today the modern Khamis reaches at least till knees, the modern Khamis can have (Gol daman) round cut at end corners or (Chokor Daman) square cut, this

4374-443: The dupatta is also employed as a form of modesty—although it is made of delicate material, it obscures the upper body's contours by passing over the shoulders. For Muslim women, the dupatta is a less stringent alternative to the chador or burqa (see hijab and purdah ); for Sikh and Hindu women, the dupatta is useful when the head must be covered, as in a temple or the presence of elders. Everywhere in South Asia, modern versions of

4455-496: The folds together on opposite sides. The Khamis is also made of different styles, originally Sindhi men used to wear either short or long Angrakho which was tied at either side or in middle, the shorter one was called Angelo, and was worn by common people, the longer ones were worn by Soldiers, government officials and noblemen, other style was called Kiriyo/Puthiyo, then the short Kurtas (tunics) called (Pehrān/Pehriyān) were commonly worn, which used to be collarless like Angrakho and

4536-516: The general people in the local area during the medieval period, particularly, the 7th century C.E. The wearing of the suthan and kurta continued to be prevalent during the Mughal period between 1526-1748 C.E. and has been in use in unbroken succession since ancient times. The National Review (1925) notes that the suthan was in much use in the Punjab, generally in white washable cloth but on feast days of rich material such as Lahore silk. The svasthana

4617-452: The jamma. However, the salwar is now worn by members of various communities in India and Pakistan. In Sindh, Shalwar Kameez or (Suthan ain Khamis) in Sindhi worn by men are of two types, one is worn usually in lower/south of Sindh which has wider ankles and does not get narrow at ankles this type of Shalwar is called (Kancha), other has narrow ankles worn mostly in upper/north of Sindh and is called (Suthan/Salwar), both has very less pleats,

4698-415: The latter case, its design as a women's garment is similar to a kurta . The combination garment is sometimes called salwar kurta , salwar suit . The shalwar and kameez were introduced into South Asia by arriving Muslims in the north in the 13th century: at first worn by Muslim women, their use gradually spread, making them a regional style, especially in the historical Punjab region. The shalwar-kameez

4779-399: The legs and is gathered at the ankles. The Punjabi shalwar is also cut straight and gathered at the ankles with a loose band reinforced with coarse material. In rural Punjab , the shalwar is still called the suthan, which is a different garment that was popular in previous centuries, alongside the churidar and kameez combination (which is still popular). In Britain , British Asian women from

4860-428: The lower opening. This is similar to the Punjabi ghuttana which is loose at the thighs and tightens at the knees and ends at the calves (with some versions ending at the knees and the lower legs being naked). This suggests that the use of the suthan is indigenous to the Punjab region . Ultimately, however, the svasthana could have been introduced to ancient India from Central Asia , but its use became popular amongst

4941-468: The men's Punjabi suit. The upper garment is made of the straight cut kurta/kameez and the salwar resembles a slim fit pajama. In the past, the suthan was also commonly worn by men, a trend which can still be seen in some parts of the region (especially Jammu and Himachal Pradesh ). The Ghaznavid Turks popularised the salwar/tunic attire in Afghanistan. The use of the suthan or the salwar has been adopted in other areas. People in Jammu have changed

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5022-437: The modern Khamis reaches at least till knees, the modern Khamis can have (Gol daman) round cut at end corners or (Chokor Daman) square cut, this is now a everydays clothing of Sindhi men. The clothes are adorned with Ajrak and topi or Patko (Turbans), but usually on everyday life, a various coloured floral, checkered or plain piece of cloth with Sindhi embroideries and mirrors is carried over shoulders or as turban, also used as

5103-487: The modern Punjabi salwar came into being which is slim fitting and does not have wide ends as before. Another style of salwar is the Pothohari salwar of the Pothohar area of the Punjab region . The Pothohari salwar retains the wideness of the Punjabi suthan. The kameez is also wide. The chunni is a remnant of the large chadar popular in West Punjab known as salari and the large Phulkari worn in various areas of

5184-507: The occasion and the wearer's social status. It is a popular and versatile garment that can be worn for both casual and formal occasions, and has gained popularity worldwide due to its comfort and style. The Punjabi salwar suit is worn in the Punjab in India and Pakistan . It consists of the chunni (head scarf), jhagga ( kameez ) and the salwar when worn by women. The chunni can be of varying lengths. The jhagga ( kameez )

5265-499: The older Punjabi suthan and also has some folds. The kameez is also wide. The head scarf is traditionally large, similar to the chador or phulkari that was used throughout the plains of the Punjab region. Saraiki shalwar suits are Punjabi outfits which include the Bahawalpuri shalwar suit and the Multani shalwar suit. The Bahawalpuri shalwar originates from the Bahawalpur region of Punjab, Pakistan . The Bahawalpuri shalwar

5346-472: The outfit consists of the phiran, poots and shalwar . The traditional shalwar kameez worn in the Punjab region is cut differently to the styles worn in Balochistan and Afghanistan and is known as a "Punjabi suit" with the kameez being cut straight and flat with side slits (which is a local development as earlier forms of kameez did not have side slits). The shalwar is wide at the top but fits closely to

5427-551: The salwar is baggy and loose straight down the legs, and gathered loosely at the ankles. During the medieval period, people adopted the Iraqi style of salwar in Multan and neighbouring Sindh . This type of salwar is traditionally very baggy and gathered at the ankles. It is still worn by the Kurdish community in Iraq . The presence of the baggy salwar was noted by Alberuni in the 11th century A.D. and continued to be envogue between

5508-520: The salwar known as suthan. The Punjabi suthan suit which is made up of the head scarf, kurta/kurti and Punjabi suthan. There are also the Jammu dress and the churidar . The term salwar kameez also includes the Kashmiri Phiran/suthan outfit . In the Punjab region , the salwar was made using a large amount of material but had no pleats or folds. The large salwar eventually gave rise to the Punjabi salwar. In its strictest sense,

5589-518: The salwar suit but is complementary to it. The word suthan is derived from the Sanskrit word svasthana , which means tight fitting trousers. This, in turn, derives from the Central Asian word samstamni . The suthan are trousers cut straight and tight, as opposed to the salwar, which is baggy and can be full of folds. The tight suthan is loose to the knees, but the loose Punjabi suthan

5670-482: The salwar, with the definition of suthan being reserved for the tight Punjabi suthan. The loose suthan is primarily a female costume, but in some areas, such as Rawalpindi , was worn by men too, which is also called tambi when worn by men. The loose suthan was also worn by men in Bannu ( Khyber Pakhtunkhwa ) which has historical and cultural connections with the rest of the Punjab region . The tight Punjabi suthan

5751-406: The suthan is a remnant of the ancient svasthana trousers which were tight fitting to the thighs. The use of loose material is a local development. The pleats of the suthan either gather in circles resembling bangles, or fall vertically to the ankles. As the distinction between the loose Punjabi suthan and the baggy salwar rests on the ankle band, some view the loose Punjabi suthan as another version of

5832-450: The tailor's taste or skill is displayed, this will be seen in the shape of the neckline and the decoration of the kameez. The kameez may be cut with a deep neckline, sewn in diaphanous fabrics, or styled in cap-sleeve or sleeveless designs. There are many styles of shalwar: the Peshawari shalwar, Balochi shalwar, Sindhi Chareno, Sindhi Kancha, Sindhi Suthan/Salwar, Sindhi Pajamo/Sorhi Suthan and Punjabi shalwar. Although various regions of

5913-499: The term is now loosely applied to collarless or mandarin-collared kurtas . The kameez might be worn with pyjamas as well, either for fashion or comfort. Some kameez styles have side seams (known as the chaak ), left open below the waist-line, giving the wearer greater freedom of movement. The kameez can be sewn straight and flat, in an "A" shape design or flowing like a dress; there are a variety of styles. Modern kameez styles are more likely to have European-inspired set-in sleeves. If

5994-534: The that much wide ankles as the original one. The Sindhi Suthan and Kancha usually have less pleats, The third style of Shalwar is modern Sindhi suthan/salwar which do not have any pleats but is loose like pyjamas , while some men wear Gairwari Salwar, which has many pleats and is voluminous. All the shalwars are tied at waist by Agath ( drawstring ) which is made of different bright colours heavily ornated and embellished with shiny metallic threads , beads, mirrors etc. The Salwar and Kancha's pleats are created by bringing

6075-465: The traditional attire from the peshwaj (flowing to the ankles) to the kurta and Dogri suthan. The Phiran is worn in Kashmir traditionally flowed to the ankles, is now of varying lengths and is worn with a loose suthan. Kashyap Bandhu is regarded as the person responsible for spreading the use of the suthan with the phiran amongst the communities that resisted to adopt its use, eventually leading to

6156-597: The use of svasthana amongst the ruling classes has also been observed in North India during the Kushan Empire between the 1st and 3rd centuries C.E. It was noted in use during the Gupta Empire between 4th and 6th centuries C.E. and during King Harsha's rule during the 7th century C.E. A version of the svasthana has been noted in ancient India which sticks to the calves with narrow circumferences of

6237-505: The use of the salwar. However, the traditional Kashmiri suthan is loose, similar to the styles worn in Afghanistan with some wearing styles similar to the Dogri suthan. The Punjabi salwar suit has also become popular. Elsewhere in India and Pakistan , Muslim communities have traditionally worn the style of salwar worn by the Mughals combining them with Mughal upper garments such as

6318-452: Was adopted in Lucknow during the 19th century. Where the churidar suthan is tight up to the knees and wide above, the churidar pajama is tight below the calves and slightly loose above. The waist fits closer than the suthan. In the late 19th century, the slim line riding breeches known as Jodhpuri , were developed along the lines of the tight fitting Punjabi suthan, albeit the churidar

6399-483: Was tied at either side or in middle, and had half way slit opening in front unlike angrakhas which used to be completely slitted in front. The Angrakho and Pehrān/Pehriyān were also used to be embroidered with Sindhi bhart and mirrorwork . Above Angelo and Pehrān some men also wore (Koti, Sadri , Gidi, Kaba) which can also be sometimes embroidered with mirrors usually borders and a heart shape design on back having initials of first and last name of wearer. while underneath

6480-466: Was wide, with the gathering at the ankles being wide enough to cover the feet. Originally, up to ten yards of cloth was used to make Punjabi salwars. The original Punjabi salwar was also not as baggy as other forms of the salwar, such as the type worn in Afghanistan ( partug ), the Balochi salwar, or the loose Punjabi suthan, and gathers more quickly below the knees and ends in a tight band. Eventually

6561-469: Was worn with the tunic called varbana which was tight fitting. The use of side slits in the straight cut Punjabi kurta can be traced to the 11th century C.E. female kurtaka worn in parts of north India and was a short shirt, with sleeves extending from the shoulders, to the middle of the body, and had slashes on the left and the right sides. This is the same as the modern straight cut kurta which has side slits and worn by women in Punjab. In modern usage,

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