Fashion design is the art of applying design , aesthetics , clothing construction and natural beauty to clothing and its accessories . It is influenced by culture and different trends and has varied over time and place. "A fashion designer creates clothing, including dresses, suits, pants, and skirts, and accessories like shoes and handbags, for consumers. He or she can specialize in clothing, accessory, or jewelry design, or may work in more than one of these areas."
147-474: Thomas Carlyle Ford (born August 27, 1961) is an American fashion designer and filmmaker . He launched his eponymous brand in 2005, having previously been the creative director at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent . Ford wrote and directed the films A Single Man (2009) and Nocturnal Animals (2016). From 2019 to 2022, he was chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America . Thomas Carlyle Ford
294-415: A lounge suit , business suit , dress suit , or formal suit is a set of clothes comprising a suit jacket and trousers of identical textiles generally worn with a collared dress shirt , necktie , and dress shoes . A skirt suit is similar, but with a matching skirt instead of trousers. It is currently considered semi-formal wear or business wear in contemporary Western dress codes , however when
441-522: A revival in interest in traditional Han clothing has led to interest in haute couture clothing with historical Chinese details, particularly around Chinese New Year . Fashion in the Soviet Union largely followed general trends of the Western world. However, the state's socialist ideology consistently moderated and influenced these trends. In addition, shortages of consumer goods meant that
588-584: A 75-to-90 degree "notch" at the point where the lapel meets the collar. Peaked lapels have sharp edges that point upward towards the shoulders. Double-breasted jackets usually have peaked lapels, although peaked lapels are sometimes found on single breasted jackets as well. Shawl lapels are a style derived from the Victorian informal evening wear, and as such are not normally seen on suit jackets except for tuxedos or dinner suits. For black tie events , only jackets with pointed and shawl lapels should be worn. In
735-583: A belt may allow the trouser waist to slip down on the hips or below a protruding midsection, and requires constant repositioning; also, they allow, indeed work best with, a slightly looser waist which gives room for natural expansion when seated. Suit trousers, also known as dress pants in the US, are a style of trousers intended as formal , semi-formal , or informal wear. They are often made of either wool or polyester (although many other synthetic and natural textiles are used) and may be designed to be worn with
882-470: A cohesive design. When a designer is completely satisfied with the fit of the toile (or muslin), they will consult a professional pattern maker who will then create the finished, working version of the pattern out of cardboard or using a computer program. Finally, a sample garment is made up and tested on a model to make sure it is an operational outfit. Fashion design is expressive, the designers create art that may be functional or non-functional. Technology
1029-481: A costume party." In March 2005, Ford announced the launch of his film production company, Fade to Black. In 2009 he made his directorial debut with A Single Man , based on the novel of the same name by Christopher Isherwood . The drama stars Colin Firth as an LA-based college professor who is gay, alongside Julianne Moore , Nicholas Hoult and Matthew Goode . The novel was adapted by David Scearce and Ford; Ford
1176-497: A few fashion designers who choose to set up their labels, which offers them full control over their designs. Others are self-employed and design for individual clients. Other high-end fashion designers cater to specialty stores or high-end fashion department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those that follow established fashion trends. Most fashion designers, however, work for apparel manufacturers, creating designs of men's, women's, and children's fashions for
1323-740: A filming location for Western movies. He told Vogue he had adopted a vegan diet after viewing the Netflix documentary called What the Health . As of 2019, he has been a teetotaler and has been open about using fillers and Botox . He has said in multiple interviews that his first lover was the late artist Ian Falconer , who went on to write and illustrate the very popular Olivia the Pig children's book series. Ford maintains that he and Falconer remained good friends until Falconer's death in 2023; decades after their breakup, Ford lent Falconer's last name to
1470-444: A flower just on the left), while single-breasted suits have just one on the left. Most jackets have a variety of inner pockets and two main outer pockets, which are generally either patch pockets, flap pockets, or jetted ("besom") pockets. The patch pocket is, with its single extra piece of cloth sewn directly onto the front of the jacket, a sporting option, sometimes seen on summer linen suits or other informal styles. The flap pocket
1617-477: A follow-up volume entitled Tom Ford 002 , which described his career from 2005 including the creation of his own fashion label and the production of his two films. Both books are published by Rizzoli International Publications and co-authored by fashion journalist Bridget Foley, with forewords by Anna Wintour . In September 2013, hip-hop artist Jay-Z released the song " Tom Ford " as a single from his album Magna Carta Holy Grail . Ford responded favorably to
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#17327901905631764-416: A garment by creating visual interest for consumers. Fashion designers work in various ways, some start with a vision in their head and later move into drawing it on paper or on a computer, while others go directly into draping fabric onto a dress form, also known as a mannequin. The design process is unique to the designer and it is rather intriguing to see the various steps that go into the process. Designing
1911-433: A garment starts with patternmaking . The process begins with creating a sloper or base pattern. The sloper will fit the size of the model a designer is working with or a base can be made by utilizing standard size charting. Three major manipulations within patternmaking include dart manipulation, contouring, and added fullness. Dart manipulation allows for a dart to be moved on a garment in various places but does not change
2058-432: A hidden button holds the underlap in place. The jacket's lapels can be notched (also called "stepped"), peaked ("pointed"), shawl, or "trick" (Mandarin and other unconventional styles). Each lapel style carries different connotations and is worn with different cuts of suit. Notched lapels, the most common of the three, are usually only found on single-breasted jackets and are the most informal style. They are distinguished by
2205-682: A journalist and former editor in chief of Vogue Hommes International ; they had been in a relationship since meeting in 1986. The couple have a son who was born in September 2012 via gestational surrogate . The family lived in Italy, where Ford moved from New York in 1990, and in London for 17 years. They lived in his residences in New York, Los Angeles , Santa Fe , and London . Ford and Buckley have owned smooth fox terriers , which have appeared on
2352-496: A large percentage of luxury designers and brands. Fashion today is a global industry, and most major countries have a fashion industry. Seven countries have established an international reputation in fashion: the United States , France , Italy , United Kingdom , Japan , Germany and Belgium . The "big four" fashion capitals of the fashion industry are New York City , Paris , Milan , and London . The United States
2499-453: A low gorge (the point on the jacket that forms the "notch" or "peak" between the collar and front lapel). Current (mid-2000s) trends are towards a narrower lapel and higher gorge. Necktie width usually follows the width of the jacket lapel. Lapels also have a buttonhole , intended to hold a boutonnière , a decorative flower. These are now only commonly seen at more formal events. Usually, double-breasted suits have one hole on each lapel (with
2646-428: A man's pants while he read a newspaper. A separate ad was banned in Italy. Responding to criticism that he objectified women, Ford stated he is an "equal opportunity objectifier" and is "just as happy to objectify men". He argued "you can't show male nudity in our culture in the way you can show female nudity" and pointed out that he did a male nude ad while at Yves Saint Laurent which got pulled. In 2014, Ford released
2793-516: A matching suit jacket. Suit trousers often have a crease in the front of each pant leg, and may have one or more pleats. Suit trousers can be worn at many formal and semi-formal occasions combined with a shirt that has no tie and a more relaxed fashion, which can be considered smart casual dress. As an alternative to trousers, breeches (or knickers in variations of English where this does not refer to underwear) may be worn with informal suits, such as tweed. These are shorter, descending to just below
2940-504: A more casual style, reflecting the athletic , health-conscious lifestyles of the suburban and urban middle classes. The annual Met Gala ceremony in Manhattan is widely regarded as the world's most prestigious haute couture fashion event and is a venue where fashion designers and their creations are celebrated. Social media is also a place where fashion is presented most often. Some influencers are paid huge amounts of money to promote
3087-454: A new product, called the "Penis Pendant Necklace". The product caused some controversy, with Christians calling it offensive due to the pendant being shaped similar to a Christian cross or crucifix . Ford replied that "it was not meant to be a cross, it was a phallus" and "people read into things what they want to". In 2022, Ford criticized the Met Gala , stating the event had "turned into
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#17327901905633234-414: A period known as Fashion Week . This takes place on a citywide basis and occurs twice a year. The main seasons of Fashion Week include; spring/summer, fall/winter, resort, swim, and bridal. Half-way garments are an alternative to ready-to-wear, "off-the-peg", or prêt-à-porter fashion. Half-way garments are intentionally unfinished pieces of clothing that encourage co-design between the "primary designer" of
3381-544: A pocket or sitting down, to improve the hang of the jacket, so are now used on most jackets. Ventless jackets are associated with Italian tailoring, while the double-vented style is typically British. Dinner jackets traditionally have no vents. Waistcoats (called vests in American English) were almost always worn with suits prior to the 1940s. Due to rationing during World War II , their prevalence declined, but their popularity has gone in and out of fashion from
3528-1226: A product or clothing item, where the business hopes many viewers will buy the product off the back of the advertisement. Instagram is the most popular platform for advertising, but Facebook, Snapchat, Twitter and other platforms are also used. In New York, the LGBT fashion design community contributes very significantly to promulgating fashion trends, and drag celebrities have developed a profound influence upon New York Fashion Week . Prominent American brands and designers include Calvin Klein , Ralph Lauren , Coach , Nike , Vans , Marc Jacobs , Tommy Hilfiger , DKNY , Tom Ford , Caswell-Massey , Michael Kors , Levi Strauss and Co. , Estée Lauder , Revlon , Kate Spade , Alexander Wang , Vera Wang , Victoria's Secret , Tiffany and Co. , Converse , Oscar de la Renta , John Varvatos , Anna Sui , Prabal Gurung , Bill Blass , Halston , Carhartt , Brooks Brothers , Stuart Weitzman , Diane von Furstenberg , J. Crew , American Eagle Outfitters , Steve Madden , Abercrombie and Fitch , Juicy Couture , Thom Browne , Guess , Supreme , and The Timberland Company . In
3675-543: A season to make sure a style is going to catch on before producing their versions of the original look. To save money and time, they use cheaper fabrics and simpler production techniques which can easily be done by machines. The end product can, therefore, be sold much more cheaply. There is a type of design called "kutch" originated from the German word kitschig , meaning "trashy" or "not aesthetically pleasing". Kitsch can also refer to "wearing or displaying something that
3822-652: A significant movement, as it informed the large cities, such as Mexico City, of European fashions. This encouraged the founding of department stores, changing the existent pace of fashion. With access to European fashion and dress, those with high social status relied on adopting those elements to distinguish themselves from the rest. Juana Catarina Romero was a successful entrepreneur and pioneer in this movement. Suit (clothing) [REDACTED] = Day (before 6 p.m.) [REDACTED] = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie colour [REDACTED] = Ladies [REDACTED] = Gentlemen A suit , also called
3969-486: A stigma on Chinese brands. Due to government censorship, Chinese citizens were only able to access fashion magazines in the 1990s. However, as more and more Chinese designers matriculate from the world's top fashion schools, Chinese designers such as Shushu/Tong and Rui Zhou have made their way into the world's top fashion weeks, and Shanghai has become a fashion hub in China. In the early 2020s, Gen Z shoppers pioneered
4116-432: A suit with more than four buttons, although zoot suits can have as many as six or more due to their longer length. There is also variation in the placement and style of buttons, since the button placement is critical to the overall impression of height conveyed by the jacket. The centre or top button will typically line up quite closely with the natural waistline. The bottom button is usually not meant to be buttoned and so
4263-424: A waistcoat or cardigan, but now it is more frequent to button on the inside of the trouser. Trousers taking braces are rather different in cut at the waist, employing extra girth and also height at the back. The split in the waistband at the back is in the fishtail shape. Those who prefer braces assert that, because they hang from the shoulders, they always make the trousers fit and hang exactly as they should, while
4410-406: A wide range of materials, colors, patterns , and styles. Though most clothing worn for everyday wear falls within a narrow range of conventional styles, unusual garments are usually sought for special occasions such as evening wear or party dresses . Some clothes are made specifically for an individual, as in the case of haute couture or bespoke tailoring . Today, most clothing is designed for
4557-521: A year and a half in Paris , where he worked as an intern in Chloé 's press office, inspiring his interest in fashion. He spent his final year at The New School studying fashion, but graduated with a degree in architecture . When interviewing for jobs after graduation, Ford said that he had attended The New School 's Parsons division, but concealed that he graduated in architecture, and that his work at Chloé
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4704-755: A year in February and September. Milan Fashion week puts fashion in the spotlight and celebrates it in the heart of Milan with fashion lovers, buyers and media. Most Japanese fashion houses are in Tokyo which is home to Tokyo Fashion Week , Asia's largest fashion week. The Japanese look is loose and unstructured (often resulting from complicated cutting), colors tend to the sombre and subtle, and richly textured fabrics. Famous Japanese designers include Kenzo Takada , Issey Miyake , Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo . Chinese clothing has historically been associated with lower quality both inside and outside China, leading to
4851-471: Is "the study and knowledge of the practical, especially industrial, use of scientific discoveries". Technology within fashion has broadened the industry and allowed for faster production processes. Over the years, there has been an increase in the use of technology within Fashion Design as it offers new platforms for creativity. Technology is constantly changing and there have been innovations within
4998-567: Is 7,820 based on employment. The lowest employment is within Apparel Knitting Mills at .46% of the industry employed, which averages to 30 workers within the specific specialty. In 2016, 23,800 people were counted as fashion designers in the United States. Geographically, the largest employment state of Fashion designers is New York with an employment of 7,930. New York is considered a hub for fashion designers due to
5145-479: Is a Democrat . He opposed the United States' invasion of Iraq in 2003 , stating that it made him feel "ashamed to be an American". His comment drew public criticism within America. He hosted a fundraiser for Barack Obama . He voted for Hillary Clinton in the 2016 US general election . Ford has advocated for federal recognition of same-sex marriage in the United States . In a 2009 interview, he said he preferred
5292-420: Is a new means of communication for designers and allows ideas to flow. Designers are provided with a space to also create more professional and industry standard specifications such as technical flats and tech packs. Software such as Browzwear, Clo3D, and Optitex aid designers in the product development stage. Virtual reality has allowed a new way to prototype clothing to originally see designers. This eliminates
5439-415: Is also known to pose with celebrities and models in his ad campaigns. He has been called the "King of Sex" and "the straightest gay man in the world". Ford saved Gucci from near bankruptcy and transformed it into a fashion powerhouse. His decade as the creative director was hailed as a "golden era" for Gucci. He turned the brand around, replacing the "grunge look" with "sexy, yet sophisticated, clothes". He
5586-617: Is also used, and in the Southern United States, cotton seersucker is worn. The main four colours for suits worn in business are black, light grey, dark grey, and navy, either with or without patterns. In particular, grey flannel suiting has been worn very widely since the 1930s. In non-business settings or less-formal business contexts, brown is another important colour; olive also occurs. In summer, lighter shades such as tan or cream are popular. For non-business use, tweed has been popular since Victorian times and still
5733-501: Is called a surgeon's cuff and "working button holes" (U.S.). Some wearers leave these buttons undone to reveal that they can afford a bespoke suit, although it is proper to leave these buttons done up. Modern bespoke styles and high-end off-the-rack suits equipped with surgeon's cuffs have the last two buttons stitched off-centre, so that the sleeve hangs more cleanly should the buttons ever be undone. Certainty in fitting sleeve length must be achieved, as once working button holes are cut,
5880-421: Is commonly worn. A wide range of colour is available, including muted shades of green, brown, red, and grey. Tweeds are usually checked, or plain with a herringbone weave , and are most associated with the country. While full tweed suits are not worn by many now, the jackets are often worn as sports jackets with odd trousers (trousers of different cloth). The most conventional suit has two or three buttons and
6027-531: Is considered one of the premier fashion events in the country. Lakme Fashion Week in India takes place twice a year and is held in the populous city of Mumbai. The first show occurs during April featuring summer collections. The second show takes place in August to showcase the winter collection. Lakme , a cosmetic brand for Indian women, hosts the event. This fashion week started in 1999 and originally partnered with
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6174-416: Is considered one of the top fashion schools in the world. There are numerous fashion magazines published in the United States and distributed to a global readership. Examples include Vogue , Harper's Bazaar , and Cosmopolitan . American fashion design is highly diverse, reflecting the enormous ethnic diversity of the population, but is largely dominated by a clean-cut, urban, hip aesthetic, and often favors
6321-484: Is denominated by the weight of a one-square yard piece; thus, the heavier wools, suitable for winter only, are 12–14 oz.; the medium, "three-season" (i.e., excluding summer) are 10–11 oz.; and summer wools are 7–8 oz. (In the days before central heating, heavier wools such as 16 oz. were used in suits; now they are used mainly in overcoats and topcoats.) Other materials are used sometimes, either alone or blended with wool, such as cashmere . Silk alone or blended with wool
6468-412: Is either medium-to-dark grey or navy. Other conservative colours are grey, black, and olive. White and light blues are acceptable at some events, especially in the warm season. Red and the brighter greens are usually considered "unconventional" and "garish". Tradition calls for a gentleman's suit to be of decidedly plain colour, with splashes of bright colour reserved for shirts, neckties or kerchiefs. In
6615-595: Is home to the largest, wealthiest, and most multi-faceted fashion industry. Most fashion houses in the United States are based in New York City , with a high concentration centered in the Garment District neighborhood. On the US west coast, there is also to a lesser extent a significant number of fashion houses in Los Angeles , where a substantial percentage of high fashion clothing manufactured in
6762-498: Is known for his bold designs. The New York Magazine wrote "Every season, Ford created an 'It' piece, a must-have, a season-defining trend, photographed to death, knocked off ad nauseam ." Ford says it is important for designers to be contemporary and current with the changing standard of beauty. In 2004, Ford published an eponymous monograph, detailing his early career and his design work for Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent from 1990 to 2004. In 2021, seventeen years later, Ford published
6909-446: Is often considered to have started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth who was the first designer to have his label sewn into the garments that he created. Before the former draper set up his maison couture (fashion house) in Paris , clothing design and creation of the garments were handled largely by anonymous seamstresses. At the time high fashion descended from what was popularly worn at royal courts. Worth's success
7056-402: Is one of the most challenging tailoring tasks, even for very experienced tailors. The width of the lapel is a varying aspect of suits and has changed over the years. The 1930s and 1970s featured exceptionally wide lapels, whereas during the late 1950s and most of the 1960s suits with very narrow lapels—often only about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide—were in fashion. The 1980s saw mid-size lapels with
7203-402: Is shaped from the neck to the chest and shoulders to drape without wrinkles from tension. Shape is the essential part of tailoring that often takes hand work from the start. The two main cuts are double-breasted suits, a conservative design with two columns of buttons, spanned by a large overlap of the left and right sides; and single-breasted suits, in which the sides meet in the centre of
7350-410: Is sometimes used. Synthetic materials, e.g., polyester , while cheaper, are very rarely recommended by experts. At most, a blend of predominantly wool may be acceptable to obtain the main benefit of synthetics, namely resistance to wrinkling, particularly in garments used for travel; however, any synthetic, blended or otherwise, will always be warmer and clammier than wool alone. For hot weather, linen
7497-426: Is standard for side pockets, and has an extra lined flap of matching fabric covering the top of the pocket. A jetted pocket is most formal, with a small strip of fabric taping the top and bottom of the slit for the pocket. This style is most often on seen on formalwear , such as a dinner jacket. A breast pocket is usually found at the left side, where a pocket square or handkerchief can be displayed. In addition to
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#17327901905637644-505: Is the capital of French fashion . Traditionally, French fashion is chic and stylish, defined by its sophistication, cut, and smart accessories. French fashion is internationally acclaimed. Madrid and Barcelona are the main fashion centers in Spain. Spanish fashion is often more conservative and traditional but also more 'timeless' than other fashion cultures. Spaniards are known not to take great risks when dressing. Nonetheless, many of
7791-652: Is the centre of fashion in Germany (prominently displayed at Berlin Fashion Week ), while Düsseldorf holds Europe's largest fashion trade fairs with Igedo . Other important centres of the scene are Munich , Hamburg , and Cologne . German fashion is known for its elegant lines as well as unconventional young designs and the great variety of styles. Most of the Indian fashion houses are in Mumbai, Lakme Fashion Week
7938-529: Is therefore no longer in fashion". The median annual wages for salaried fashion designers was $ 79,290 in May 2023, approximately $ 38.12 per hour. The middle 50 percent earned an average of 76,700. The lowest 10 percent earned $ 37,090 and the highest 10 percent earned $ 160,850. The highest number of employment lies within Apparel , Piece Goods , and Notions Merchant Wholesalers with a percentage of 5.4. The average
8085-566: The FDCI , Fashion Design Council of India then later switched to a sponsorship with Lakme. Milan is Italy's fashion capital. Most of the older Italian couturiers are in Rome . However, Milan and Florence are the Italian fashion capitals, and it is the exhibition venue for their collections. Italian fashion features casual and glamorous elegance. In Italy, Milan Fashion Week takes place twice
8232-517: The French suite , meaning "following," from some Late Latin derivative form of the Latin verb sequor = "I follow," because the component garments (jacket and trousers and waistcoat ) follow each other and have the same cloth and colour and are worn together. As a suit (in this sense) covers all or most of the wearer's body, the term "suit" was extended to a single garment that covers all or most of
8379-596: The Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award . While Ford was in a monogamous relationship for many years, he "continue[d] to promote himself with a youthful and sexually charged image". He is known for sexy clothes, making provocative statements, and creating racy advertisements. Ford's designs convey a "sophisticated sex appeal" and he has been credited for "bringing sexy back". His advertisement campaigns have drawn controversy for use of nudity and "provocative sexual imagery". Ford
8526-550: The Grand Jury Prize at the Venice Film Festival . The film has an approval rating of 72% on Rotten Tomatoes, based on 143 reviews, with an average rating of 7.1/10, and the site's critical consensus reading: "Well-acted and lovely to look at, Nocturnal Animals further underscores writer-director Tom Ford's distinctive visual and narrative skill." Ford is a Finook, and married Richard Buckley in 2014,
8673-507: The counterculture of the 1960s in Western culture . Informal suits have been traditionally worn with a fedora , a trilby , or a flat cap . Other accessories include handkerchief, suspenders or belt, watch, and jewelry. Other notable types of suits are for what would now be considered formal occasions—the tuxedo or dinner suit (black tie) and the black lounge suit (stroller)—both which originally arose as less formal alternatives for
8820-422: The guochao ( Chinese : 国潮 ; pinyin : Guó cháo ) movement , a trend of preferring homegrown designers which incorporate aspects of Chinese history and culture. Hong Kong clothing brand Shanghai Tang 's design concept is inspired by Chinese clothing and set out to rejuvenate Chinese fashion of the 1920s and 30s, with a modern twist of the 21st century and its usage of bright colours. Additionally,
8967-497: The mass market , especially casual and everyday wear, which are commonly known as ready to wear or fast fashion . There are different lines of work for designers in the fashion industry. Fashion designers who work full-time for a fashion house, as 'in-house designers', own the designs and may either work alone or as a part of a design team. Freelance designers who work for themselves sell their designs to fashion houses, directly to shops, or to clothing manufacturers. There are quite
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#17327901905639114-459: The runway and in his film A Single Man . Ford also has two nephews and a niece, the children of his sister Jennifer. Ford constructed a 24,000-acre private tract designed by Japanese architect Tadao Ando , in Santa Fe. It is called Cerro Pelon Ranch and has additional structures that were designed by Marmol Radziner . The property also has a fictional town known as Silverado that is used as
9261-440: The sack suit , a loose American style. There are three ways to buy suits: The acid test of authentic tailoring standards is the wrinkle that comes from poor tailoring. Rumples can be pressed out. For interim fittings, "Rock Of Eye" (which means trained freehand based on an experienced artistic eye to match the item to the wearer, trusting the eye over unyielding scripted approach), drawing and cutting inaccuracies are overcome by
9408-435: The "fabric, shape and construction of a people's clothing". Textiles were created from plant fibers including cotton and agave. Class status differentiated what fabric was worn. Mexican dress was influenced by geometric shapes to create the silhouettes. Huipil a blouse characterized by a "loose, sleeveless tunic made of two or three joined webs of cloth sewn lengthwise" is an important historical garment, often seen today. After
9555-409: The 1910s to 1920s, before the invention of sports jackets specifically to be worn with odd trousers, wearing a suit jacket with odd trousers was seen as an alternative to a full suit. However, with the modern advent of sports jackets, suit jackets are always worn with matching trousers, and the trousers are worn with no jacket or the appropriate jacket. Trouser width has varied considerably throughout
9702-417: The 1920s to the 1940s, that would be unusual today (one point of a double-breasted jacket being, it may be supposed, to eliminate the waistcoat). Traditionally, the bottom button of a waistcoat is left undone; like the vents in the rear of a jacket, this helps the body bend when sitting. Some waistcoats can have lapels; others do not. Suit trousers are always made of the same material as the jacket. Even from
9849-458: The 1950s, fashion clothing was predominately designed and manufactured on a made-to-measure or haute couture basis ( French for high-sewing), with each garment being created for a specific client. A couture garment is made to order for an individual customer, and is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric, sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. Look and fit take priority over
9996-402: The 1960s and 70s, as many as eight were seen. Six buttons are typical, with two to button; the last pair floats above the overlap. The three buttons down each side may in this case be in a straight line (the 'keystone' layout) or more commonly, the top pair is half as far apart again as each pair in the bottom square. A four-button double-breasted jacket usually buttons in a square. The layout of
10143-416: The 1970s onwards. A pocket watch on a chain, one end of which is inserted through a middle buttonhole, is often worn with a waistcoat; otherwise, since World War I , when they came to prominence of military necessity, men have worn wristwatches, which may be worn with any suit except the full evening dress ( white tie ). Although many examples of waistcoats worn with a double-breasted jacket can be found from
10290-472: The 1980s, double-breasted suits with notched lapels were popular with power suits and the New Wave style. In the late 1920s and 1930s, a design considered very stylish was the single-breasted peaked-lapel jacket. This has gone in and out of vogue periodically, being popular once again during the 1970s, and is still a recognised alternative. The ability to properly cut peaked lapels on a single-breasted suit
10437-430: The 1980s, these styles disappeared in favor of tapered, slim-legged trousers. One variation in the design of trousers is the use or not of pleats. The most classic style of trouser is to have two pleats, usually forward, since this gives more comfort sitting and better hang standing. This is still a common style, and for these reasons of utility has been worn throughout the 20th century. The style originally descended from
10584-498: The 2021 film House of Gucci directed by Ridley Scott , Ford was portrayed by actor Reeve Carney . Ford has been recognized by important design and cultural councils worldwide, including the Cooper Hewitt Design Museum and Time . Fashion designer Fashion designers work in a variety of ways when designing their pieces and accessories such as rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings. Due to
10731-595: The Broadcast Film Critics Association Awards. In 2015, Ford became attached to direct Nocturnal Animals , an adaptation of the Austin Wright novel Tony and Susan . The film was released in 2016. Jake Gyllenhaal and Amy Adams played the lead roles of Tony and Susan, and Michael Shannon , Armie Hammer , Aaron Taylor-Johnson , and Isla Fisher co-starred. The film received praise from critics, as well as winning
10878-831: The First Lady or the President should represent all people. Ford considers "obsession with political correctness" as something which negatively impacts modern fashion designers. He has stated that " Cancel culture inhibits design because rather than feeling free, the tendency is to start locked into a set of rules. Everything is now considered appropriation. We used to be able to celebrate other cultures. Now you can't do that." Ford has been included in several best-dressed lists, such as International Best Dressed List , The Guardian ' s "The 50 best-dressed over-50s", and British GQ ' s "50 Best Dressed Men in Britain 2015". He
11025-538: The Gucci group after he and CEO Domenico de Sole, who is credited as Ford's partner in Gucci's success, failed to agree with Pinault Printemps Redoute's boss over control of the Group. He has since referred to this experience as "devastating" and as a "midlife crisis" because he had "put everything into that for fifteen years". When Ford left in 2004, Gucci Group was valued at $ 10 billion. Four people were hired to split
11172-685: The Spanish Conquest, traditional Mexican clothing shifted to take a Spanish resemblance. Mexican indigenous groups rely on specific embroidery and colors to differentiate themselves from each other. Mexican Pink is a significant color to the identity of Mexican art and design and general spirit. The term "Rosa Mexicano" as described by Ramón Valdiosera was established by prominent figures such as Dolores del Río and designer Ramón Val in New York. When newspapers and magazines such as El Imparcial and El Mundo Ilustrado circulated in Mexico, became
11319-505: The United States and the United Kingdom, around the start of the 20th century, lounge suits were never traditionally worn in plain black, this colour instead being reserved for formal wear (including dinner jackets or strollers ) and for undertakers . However, the decline of formal wear since the 1950s and the rise of casual wear in 1960s allowed the black suit to return to fashion, as many designers began wanting to move away from
11466-560: The United States is actually made. Miami has also emerged as a new fashion hub, especially in regards to swimwear and other beach-oriented fashion. A semi-annual event held every February and September, New York Fashion Week is the oldest of the four major fashion weeks held throughout the world. Parsons The New School for Design , located in the Greenwich Village neighborhood of Lower Manhattan in New York City,
11613-629: The Year and the GLAAD Media Award for Outstanding Film – Wide Release. [1] Other nominations for the film included two further Golden Globe categories: Julianne Moore for Best Supporting Actress, and Abel Korzeniowski for Best Original Score. At the Independent Spirit Awards , the film was nominated for Best First Feature and Best First Screenplay. Ford and Scearce also received a nomination for Best Adapted Screenplay at
11760-474: The black frock coat in the early 20th century as regular daywear, a sober one-coloured suit became known as a lounge suit. Suits are offered in different designs and constructions. Cut and cloth, whether two- or three-piece, single- or double-breasted, vary, in addition to various accessories . A two-piece suit has a jacket and trousers; a three-piece suit adds a waistcoat. Hats were almost always worn outdoors (and sometimes indoors) with all men's clothes until
11907-534: The body, such as boilersuits , diving suits , and spacesuits . The suit's origins trace the simplified, sartorial standard established by the English king Charles II in the 17th century, following the example of his one-time host King Louis XIV 's court at Versailles , who decreed that in the English Court men would wear a long coat, a waistcoat (then called a " petticoat "), a cravat (a precursor of
12054-423: The brand's chief women's ready-to-wear designer and Ford moved to Milan . "I was talking to a lot of people, and most didn't want the job," Mello said. "For an American designer to move to Italy to join a company that was far from being a brand would have been pretty risky." Ford and his longtime partner, fashion journalist Richard Buckley, relocated to Milan that September. Ford's role at Gucci rapidly expanded; he
12201-424: The business suit toward more fashion suits. Traditional business suits are generally in solid colours or with pinstripes ; windowpane checks are also acceptable. Outside business, the range of acceptable patterns widens, with plaids such as the traditional glen plaid and herringbone, though apart from some very traditional environments such as London banking, these are worn for business now, as well. The colour of
12348-411: The buttons and the shape of the lapel are co-ordinated in order to direct the eyes of an observer. For example, if the buttons are too low, or the lapel roll too pronounced, the eyes are drawn down from the face, and the waist appears larger. There seems to be no clear rule as to on which side the overlap should lie. It usually crosses naturally with the left side to the fore but not invariably. Generally,
12495-465: The buttons are in relation to the natural waist. In some (now unusual) styles where the buttons are placed high, the tailor would have intended the suit to be buttoned differently from the more common lower stance. Nevertheless, some general guidelines are given here. Double-breasted suit coats are almost always kept buttoned. When there is more than one functional buttonhole (as in a traditional six-on-two arrangement), only one button need be fastened;
12642-529: The capital of the United Kingdom fashion industry and has a wide range of foreign designs which have integrated with modern British styles. Typical British design is smart but innovative yet recently has become more and more unconventional, fusing traditional styles with modern techniques. Vintage styles play an important role in the British fashion and styling industry. Stylists regularly 'mix and match'
12789-400: The company's chairman and 50% owner. According to Mello, "Maurizio always wanted everything to be round and brown, and Tom wanted to make it square and black." Though Maurizio Gucci wanted to fire Ford, Domenico De Sole insisted that he remain. Nonetheless, Ford's work during the early 1990s was primarily behind the scenes; his contributions to Gucci were overshadowed by those of Mello, who was
12936-505: The company's public face. In 1994, Ford was promoted to Creative Director of Gucci . In his first year at the helm, he introduced Halston -style velvet hipsters , skinny satin shirts and car-finish metallic patent boots. In 1995, he brought in French stylist Carine Roitfeld and photographer Mario Testino to create a series of new ad campaigns for the company. Between 1995 and 1996, sales at Gucci increased by 90%. At one point, Ford
13083-412: The concept of suit separates in the U.S., which are widely found in the marketplace today. There are many possible variations in the choice of the style, the garments, and the details of a suit. The silhouette of a suit is its outline. Tailored balance created from a canvas fitting allows a balanced silhouette so a jacket need not be buttoned and a garment is not too tight or too loose. A proper garment
13230-580: The cost of materials and the time it takes to make. Due to the high cost of each garment, haute couture makes little direct profit for the fashion houses, but is important for prestige and publicity. Ready-to-wear, or prêt-à-porter, clothes are a cross between haute couture and mass market. They are not made for individual customers, but great care is taken in the choice and cut of the fabric. Clothes are made in small quantities to guarantee exclusivity, so they are rather expensive. Ready-to-wear collections are usually presented by fashion houses each season during
13377-404: The deal. The following April, Ford stepped down as the brand's creative director and was succeeded by designer Peter Hawkings. Ford has been criticized for using naked women in various ad campaigns. Various journalists asserted that the ads were vulgar, sexist, or objectified women. One ad featured a nude woman holding a bottle of the perfume between her legs. Another featured a naked woman ironing
13524-492: The decades. In the 1920s, trousers were straight-legged and wide-legged, with a standard width at the cuff of 23 inches (58 cm). After 1935, trousers began to be tapered in at the bottom half of the leg. Trousers remained wide at the top of the leg throughout the 1940s. By the 1950s and 1960s, a more slim look had become popular. In the 1970s, suit makers offered a variety of styles of trousers, including flared, bell bottomed, wide-legged, and more traditional tapered trousers. In
13671-452: The exaggeratedly widened Oxford bags worn in the 1930s in Oxford, which, though themselves short-lived, began a trend for fuller fronts. The style is still seen as the smartest, featuring on dress trousers with black and white tie. However, at various periods throughout the last century, flat-fronted trousers with no pleats have been worn, and the swing in fashions has been marked enough that
13818-483: The fashion brands and designers coming from Spain. The most notable luxury houses are Loewe and Balenciaga . Famous designers include Manolo Blahnik , Elio Berhanyer , Cristóbal Balenciaga , Paco Rabanne , Adolfo Domínguez , Manuel Pertegaz , Jesús del Pozo , Felipe Varela and Agatha Ruiz de la Prada . Spain is also home to large fashion brands such as Zara , Massimo Dutti , Bershka , Pull&Bear , Mango , Desigual , Pepe Jeans and Camper . Berlin
13965-446: The fineness of the fibres measured by average fibre diameter, e.g., Super 120; the finer the fabric, the more delicate and thus less likely to be long-wearing it will be. Although wool has traditionally been associated with warm, bulky clothing meant for warding off cold weather, advances in making finer and finer fibre have made wool suits acceptable for warmer weather, as fabrics have accordingly become lighter and more supple. Wool fabric
14112-429: The first time. Ford dropped out after a year, focusing on acting in television commercials. Ford began studying interior architecture at The New School 's art and design college, Parsons The New School for Design , in New York City. He continued to frequent Studio 54, where he realized he was gay. The club's disco -era glamor would be a major influence on his later designs. Before his last year at New School, Ford spent
14259-540: The fitting. Suits are made in a variety of fabrics, but most commonly from wool, silk or cotton. The two main yarns produce worsteds (where the fibres are combed before spinning to produce a smooth, hard wearing cloth) and woollens (where they are not combed, thus remaining comparatively fluffy in texture). These can be woven in a number of ways, producing flannel , tweed , gabardine , and fresco among others. These fabrics all have different weights and feels, and some fabrics have an S (or Super S) number describing
14406-495: The garment, and what would usually be considered, the passive "consumer". This differs from ready-to-wear fashion, as the consumer is able to participate in the process of making and co-designing their clothing. During the Make{able} workshop, Hirscher and Niinimaki found that personal involvement in the garment-making process created a meaningful "narrative" for the user, which established a person-product attachment and increased
14553-537: The general public did not have ready access to pre-made fashion. Most of the Swiss fashion houses are in Zürich . The Swiss look is casual elegant and luxurious with a slight touch of quirkiness. Additionally, it has been greatly influenced by the dance club scene. In the development of Mexican indigenous dress, the fabrication was determined by the materials and resources that are available in specific regions, impacting
14700-412: The hips. Other changing aspects of the cut include the length, which determines the break, the bunching of fabric just above the shoe when the front seam is marginally longer than height to the shoe's top. Some parts of the world, such as Europe, traditionally opt for shorter trousers with little or no break, while Americans often choose to wear a slight break. A final major distinction is made in whether
14847-518: The images were shown to clients to gain approval, which saved time and money for the designer. If the client liked their design, the patrons commissioned the garment from the designer, and it was produced for the client in the fashion house. This designer-patron construct launched designers sketching their work rather than putting the completed designs on models. Garments produced by clothing manufacturers fall into three main categories, although these may be split up into additional, different types. Until
14994-503: The industry. 3D printing allows a larger area of personalized products and widening originality. Iris van Herpen , a Dutch designer, has showcased the incorporation of 3D printing as her Crystallization used 3D printing for the first time on a runway. The innovation has re-shaped the fashion industry and creates a new area of creativity. Apps and software have increasingly changed how designers can use technology to create. Adobe Creative Cloud , specifically Photoshop and Illustrator ,
15141-435: The jacket is cut such that buttoning the bottom button would ruin the lines and drape of the jacket. It is customary to keep the jacket buttoned while standing and to unbutton the jacket while seated. Double-breasted jackets have only half their outer buttons functional, as the second row is for display only, forcing them to come in pairs. Some rare jackets can have as few as two buttons, and during various periods, for instance
15288-408: The jacket's edges after some use or a few dry cleanings. However, some selling this type of jacket claim that the difference in quality is very small. A few London tailors state that all bespoke suits should use a floating canvas. Most single-breasted suits have two or three buttons, and four or more buttons are unusual. Dinner jackets ("black tie") usually have only one button. It is rare to find
15435-412: The jacket. Originally, vents were a sporting option, designed to make riding easier, so are traditional on hacking jackets, formal coats such as a morning coat , and, for practicality, overcoats. Today there are three styles of venting: the single-vented style (with one vent at the centre), the ventless style, and the double-vented style (one vent on each side). Vents are convenient, particularly when using
15582-509: The job?" Ford worked as a design assistant for Hardwick for two years. In 1988, Ford moved to Perry Ellis , where he knew both Robert McDonald, the company's president, and Marc Jacobs , its designer, socially. He worked at the company for two years, but grew tired of working in American fashion. In a later interview with The New York Times , he commented, "If I was ever going to become a good designer, I had to leave America. My own culture
15729-420: The knee, but riding breeches, worn with long boots such as top boots , are long enough to meet the boot and display no sock. Accessories for suits include neckties , shoes , wristwatches and pocket watches , pocket squares , cufflinks , tie clips , tie tacks, tie bars, bow ties , lapel pins , and hats . The buttoning of the jacket is primarily determined by the button stance , a measure of how high
15876-407: The knees, fastened closely at the top of the calf by a tab or button cuff. While once common, they are now typically only worn when engaged in traditional outdoor sports, such as shooting or golf . The length and design is closely related to the plus-fours (and plus-sixes etc.) worn for sport, but differ in having no bagginess. They are usually designed to be worn with long socks meeting just below
16023-593: The late 1980s and early 1990s, Belgian fashion designers brought a new fashion image that mixed East and West, and brought a highly individualised, personal vision on fashion. Well known Belgian designers are the Antwerp Six : Ann Demeulemeester , Dries Van Noten , Dirk Bikkembergs , Dirk Van Saene , Walter Van Beirendonck and Marina Yee, as well as Martin Margiela , Raf Simons , Kris Van Assche , Bruno Pieters , Anthony Vaccarello . London has long been
16170-430: The mass market. Large designer brands that have a 'name' as their brand such as Abercrombie & Fitch , Justice , or Juicy are likely to be designed by a team of individual designers under the direction of a design director. Garment design includes components of "color, texture, space, lines, pattern, silhouette, shape, proportion, balance, emphasis, rhythm, and harmony". All of these elements come together to design
16317-432: The material of a garment. Material innovation creates a new way for fibers to be re-imagined or for new materials to be constructed. This overall aids in functional and aesthetic purposes for the designer. The material technology has been used with brands such as Werewool and Bananatex . These brands innovate the way designers can construct their garments and provide new materials to be used. Modern Western fashion design
16464-410: The more fashion-oriented ready-to-wear brands have not produced both types continuously. Turn-ups on the bottom of trousers, or cuffs, were initially popularised in the 1890s by Edward VII , and were popular with suits throughout the 1920s and 1930s. They have always been an informal option, being inappropriate on all formalwear. Other variations in trouser style include the rise of the trouser. This
16611-673: The necktie), a wig , knee breeches (trousers), and a hat. The paintings of Jan Steen , Pieter Bruegel the Elder , and other painters of the Dutch Golden Era reveal that such an arrangement was already used in Holland, if not Western Europe as a whole. The current styles, founded in the Great Male Renunciation of the late 18th century, sharply changed the elaborately embroidered and jewelled formal clothing into
16758-403: The need for a live model and fittings, which shortens the production process. 3D modeling within software allows for initial sampling and development stages for partnerships with suppliers before the garments are produced. Mock-ups of designs in the 3D modeling allows for problems to be solved before a final sample is made and sent to a manufacturer. Technology can also be used and aid within
16905-557: The old with the new, which gives British style a unique, bohemian aesthetic. Irish fashion (both design and styling) is also heavily influenced by fashion trends from Britain. Well-known British designers include Thomas Burberry , Alfred Dunhill , Paul Smith , Vivienne Westwood , Stella McCartney , Jimmy Choo , John Galliano , John Richmond , Alexander McQueen , Matthew Williamson , Gareth Pugh , Hussein Chalayan and Neil Barrett . Most French fashion houses are in Paris , which
17052-456: The overall fit of the garment. Contouring allows for areas of a garment to fit closer to areas of the torso such as the bust or shoulders. Added fullness increases the length or width of a pattern to change the frame as well as fit of the garment. The fullness can be added on one side, unequal, or equally to the pattern. A designer may choose to work with certain apps that can help connect all their ideas together and expand their thoughts to create
17199-435: The patterned element (stripes, plaids , and checks ) varies by gender and location. For example, bold checks, particularly with tweeds, have fallen out of use in the US, while they continue to be worn as traditional in Britain. Some unusual old patterns such as diamonds are now rare everywhere. Inside the jacket of a suit, between the outer fabric and the inner lining, there is a layer of sturdy interfacing fabric to prevent
17346-543: The prior formal wear standards known as white tie , which incorporated items such as the dress coat , and of morning dress , which incorporated items such as the morning coat with formal trousers . Originally, suits were always tailor-made from the client's selected cloth. These are now known as bespoke suits, custom-made to measurements, taste, and style preferences. Since the 1960s, most suits have been mass-produced ready-to-wear garments. Currently, suits are offered in roughly four ways: The word suit derives from
17493-415: The sentimental value of the final product. Otto von Busch also explores half-way garments and fashion co-design in his thesis, "Fashion-able, Hacktivism and engaged Fashion Design". Currently, the fashion industry relies more on mass-market sales. The mass market caters for a wide range of customers, producing ready-to-wear garments using trends set by the famous names in fashion. They often wait around
17640-577: The simpler clothing of the British Regency period, which gradually evolved to the stark formality of the Victorian era . In the late 19th century, it was in the search for more comfort that the loosening of rules gave rise to the modern lounge suit. Brooks Brothers is generally credited with first offering the "ready-to-wear" suit, a suit that was sold already manufactured and sized, ready to be tailored, while Haggar Clothing first introduced
17787-462: The sleeve length essentially cannot be altered further. A cuffed sleeve has an extra length of fabric folded back over the arm, or just some piping or stitching above the buttons to allude to the edge of a cuff. This was popular in the Edwardian era, as a feature of formalwear such as frock coats carried over to informalwear, but is now rare. A vent is a slit in the bottom rear (the "tail") of
17934-455: The song saying, "Who would not be flattered to have an entire Jay-Z track named after them? I mean, [...] it's pretty rare that something like that happens. It's a kind of validation of one's work, as it means that one has really penetrated and made an impact on popular culture." The song was nominated for 56th Grammy Award for Best Rap Performance in 2014. Tom Ford was referenced by Swedish rapper Bladee on his 2018 mixtape Icedancer . In
18081-510: The song. Ford responded that he was flattered and "it means that one has really penetrated and made an impact on popular culture." Following the song's release, Ford received a huge spike in online search engine queries. The song would go on to sell over a million copies and become certified platinum . In November 2022, the Tom Ford brand was purchased by Estée Lauder for $ 2.8 billion. Forbes estimated that Ford would earn $ 1.1 billion from
18228-447: The standard two outer pockets and breast pocket, some suits have a fourth, the ticket pocket, usually located just above the right pocket and roughly half as wide. While this was originally exclusively a feature of country suits, used for conveniently storing a train ticket, it is now seen on some town suits. Another country feature also worn sometimes in cities is a pair of hacking pockets, which are similar to normal ones, but slanted; this
18375-449: The suit was originally developed it was considered an informal or more casual option compared to the prevailing clothing standards of aristocrats and businessmen. The lounge suit originated in 19th-century Britain as sportswear and British country clothing , which is why it was seen as more casual than citywear at that time, with the roots of the suit coming from early modern Western Europe formal court or military clothes. After replacing
18522-480: The suit; a very casual summer sports jacket might traditionally (1930s) have had only one button, while tweed suits typically have three and city suits four. In the 1970s, two buttons were seen on some city suits. Today, four buttons are common on most business suits and even casual suits. Although the sleeve buttons usually cannot be undone, the stitching is such that it appears they could. Functional cuff buttons may be found on high-end or bespoke suits; this feature
18669-517: The term "civil partnership" for both opposite-sex and same-sex partnerships, and to leave "marriage" to religion to decide. Ford maintains a policy of not dressing politicians regardless of party. I think that whoever is the President, or the First Lady, should be wearing clothes at a price point that are accessible to most Americans, and wearing clothes made in America. My clothes are made in Italy, they're very, very expensive. I don't think most women or men in our country can relate to that, and I think
18816-452: The time required to put a garment out on the market, designers must anticipate changes to consumer desires . Fashion designers are responsible for creating looks for individual garments, involving shape, color, fabric, trimming, and more. Fashion designers attempt to design clothes that are functional as well as aesthetically pleasing. They consider who is likely to wear a garment and the situations in which it will be worn, and they work with
18963-531: The title character of his first movie, A Single Man (in the source novel the character originally only had a first name). Richard Buckley died on September 19, 2021, at the age of 72 after a long illness. In 2024, Tom Ford made headlines by purchasing a mansion in London's prestigious Chelsea district for £80 million (approximately $ 104 million), marking the UK's most expensive residential real estate transaction of
19110-440: The torso with a single column of buttons, overlapping only enough for one, two or three buttons to close, with by convention the jacket front cut so that the lowest button is not designed to close. Good tailoring anywhere in the world is characterised by strongly tapered sides and minimal shoulder, whereas rack suits are often padded to reduce labour . More casual suits are characterised by less construction and tailoring, much like
19257-445: The trousers take a belt or braces (suspenders). While a belt was originally never worn with a suit, the forced wearing of belts during wartime years (caused by restrictions on use of elastic caused by wartime shortages) contributed to their rise in popularity, with braces now much less popular than belts. When braces were common, the buttons for attaching them were placed on the outside of the waistband, because they would be covered by
19404-412: The wearer may elect to fasten only the bottom button, in order to present a longer line (a style popularised by Prince George, Duke of Kent ). Single-breasted suit coats may be either fastened or unfastened. In two-button suits the bottom button is traditionally left unfastened except with certain unusual cuts of jacket, e.g. the paddock. Legend has it that King Edward VII started the trend of leaving
19551-484: The wool from stretching out of shape; this layer of cloth is called the canvas after the fabric from which it was traditionally made. Expensive jackets have a floating canvas , while cheaply manufactured models have a fused (glued) canvas. A fused canvas is less soft and, if poorly done, damages the suppleness and durability of the jacket, so many tailors are quick to deride fused canvas as being less durable, particularly since they may tend to permanently pucker along
19698-981: The work Ford had done. After leaving Gucci , Ford launched a line of menswear, beauty, eyewear, and accessories in 2006, named after himself. De Sole became chairman of the label. Ford has described "the Tom Ford customer" as international, cultured, well-traveled, and possessing disposable income . For women, he added "strong women, … intelligent women who know their own style". First Lady Michelle Obama wore an ivory floor-length evening gown designed by Ford to Buckingham Palace in 2011. He has also dressed Beyoncé , Jennifer Lopez , Gwyneth Paltrow , Anne Hathaway , Daniel Craig , Tom Hanks , Johnny Depp , Ryan Gosling , Will Smith , Julianne Moore , Hugh Jackman , Jon Hamm , and Henry Cavill . Ford designed Daniel Craig 's suits for his final four James Bond films: Quantum of Solace (2008), Skyfall (2012), Spectre (2015), and No Time to Die (2021). In 2013, Ford
19845-521: The year. This acquisition adds to Ford's extensive real estate portfolio, which is valued at over $ 300 million and includes properties such as the Hamptons estate once owned by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and a Palm Beach mansion. The Chelsea property, described as a white stucco-fronted mansion, was bought off-market during the summer and is located near Hyde Park and the River Thames . Ford
19992-543: Was a low-level public relations position. Despite his lack of experience in fashion, Ford called American designer Cathy Hardwick every day for a month in hopes of securing a job at her sportswear company. Hardwick eventually agreed to interview him. She later recalled the incident: "I had every intention of giving him no hope. I asked him who his favorite European designers were. He said, ' Armani and Chanel .' Months later I asked him why he said that, and he said, 'Because you were wearing something Armani.' Is it any wonder he got
20139-461: Was able to pull the classic fashion house back into the mainstream. His advertising campaigns for the YSL fragrances Opium (with a red-haired Sophie Dahl naked wearing only a necklace and stiletto heels in a sexually suggestive pose) and YSL M7 (with martial arts champion Samuel de Cubber in complete full-frontal nudity) were controversial and provocative. In April 2004, Ford parted ways with
20286-576: Was also one of the producers. A Single Man premiered on September 11, 2009, at the 66th Venice International Film Festival , where it was nominated for top award the Golden Lion . Colin Firth was awarded the Volpi Cup as Best Actor for his performance. He won a BAFTA Award for Best Actor in a Leading Role , and was nominated for an Academy Award , Golden Globe , Independent Spirit Award and Screen Actors Guild Award . The film won AFI Film of
20433-830: Was born on August 27, 1961, in Austin, Texas , the son of realtors Shirley Burton (née Shirley Ann Thrasher) and Thomas David Ford (1932–2020). He spent his early life in the suburbs of Houston, Texas , and in San Marcos , outside Austin. He rearranged furniture in the house at 6, and gave his mother advice on her hair and shoes. His family moved to Santa Fe, New Mexico , when he was 11. In Santa Fe, he entered St. Michael's High School and later moved to Santa Fe Preparatory School . At age 16, he enrolled at Bard College at Simon's Rock , but quickly dropped out. He moved to New York City to study art history at New York University . There he met Ian Falconer, who took him to Studio 54 for
20580-425: Was designing menswear within six months, and shoes soon after that. When Richard Lambertson left as design director in 1992, Ford took over his position, heading the brand's ready-to-wear, fragrances , image, advertising , and store design. In 1993, when he was in charge of designing eleven product lines, Ford worked eighteen-hour days. During these years, there were creative tensions between Ford and Maurizio Gucci,
20727-458: Was featured on the cover of the 2011 spring/summer issue of Another Man , giving his opinion on what makes the modern day gentleman. He has been called a "fashion icon" and a "style icon", and he was included in "All- TIME 100 Fashion Icons" list. He won many awards including several VH1/Vogue Fashion Awards and Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Awards. In 2014, the CFDA awarded him
20874-422: Was inhibiting me. Too much style in America is tacky. It's looked down upon to be too stylish. Europeans, however, appreciate style." At the time, Italian fashion house Gucci was struggling financially and was seeking to strengthen its women's ready-to-wear presence as a part of a brand overhaul. The company's creative director, Dawn Mello said, "no one would dream of wearing Gucci". In 1990, Mello hired Ford as
21021-531: Was mentioned in Justin Timberlake 's song " Suit & Tie ", which was a collaboration with Jay-Z . Ford created the suits, shirts, and accessories for the Grammy winning "Suit & Tie" music video. He went on to dress Timberlake's 20/20 Experience World Tour , designing over 600 pieces for the tour. The same year, Jay-Z released a song titled " Tom Ford " with "Tom Ford" rapped numerous times within
21168-401: Was originally designed to make the pockets easier to open on horseback while hacking . Suit jackets in all styles typically have three or four buttons on each cuff, which are often purely decorative (the sleeve is usually sewn closed and cannot be unbuttoned to open). Five buttons are unusual and are a modern fashion innovation. The number of buttons is primarily a function of the formality of
21315-538: Was such that he was able to dictate to his customers what they should wear, instead of following their lead as earlier dressmakers had done. The term couturier was in fact first created in order to describe him. While all articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as costume design , only clothing created after 1858 is considered fashion design. It was during this period that many design houses began to hire artists to sketch or paint designs for garments. Rather than going straight into manufacturing,
21462-544: Was the largest individual shareholder of Gucci stock and options. By 1999, the house, which had been almost insolvent when Ford joined, was valued at more than $ 4 billion. When Gucci acquired the house of Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) in 1999, Ford was named Creative Director of that label as well. Saint Laurent did not hide his displeasure with Ford's designs, stating "The poor man does what he can." During his time as creative director for YSL, Ford nonetheless won numerous Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards. Ford
21609-485: Was very high in the early half of the 20th century, particularly with formalwear, with rises above the natural waist, to allow the waistcoat covering the waistband to come down just below the narrowest point of the chest. Though serving less purpose, this high height was duplicated in the daywear of the period. Since then, fashions have changed, and have rarely been that high again, with styles returning more to low-rise trousers, even dropping down to have waistbands resting on
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