31-602: The Chamba Rumal or Chamba handkerchief is an embroidered handicraft that was once promoted under the patronage of the former rulers of Chamba kingdom . It is a common item of gift during marriages with detailed patterns in bright and pleasing colour schemes. This product has been registered for protection under the Geographical indication of the Trade Related Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) agreement. On 22 January 2007, it
62-456: A double satin stitch for the embroidery, both faces of the cloth are concurrently stitched by a forward and backward technique to maintain uniformity of design on both faces of the rumal. After completing the embroidery, the fabric is stitched with a border of about 2 to 4 inches on all sides. Bibliography Chamba State Chamba State was one of the oldest princely states in present-day Republic of India , having been founded during
93-622: A reasonable living by using high-quality mill yarn and catering to the luxury market. Gandhi tried to put an end to this practice by threatening to give up khadi altogether, but since the weavers would have starved if they listened to him, they ignored the threat. In 1919, Gandhi started spinning at Mani Bhawan Mumbai and encouraging others to do so. He invented Patti Charkha, using a double-wheel design to increase speed and control while reducing size. In 1946, when huge funds were being spent on development for more productive charkhas, he recommended takli over charkha. The khadi movement began in 1918 and
124-650: A rumal which was gifted to the British in 1883 by Raja Gopal Singh and it has an embroidered scene of the Kurukshetra War of the epic Mahabharta . However, from the 17th century the women of the erstwhile princely state of Chamba (now part of Himachal Pradesh), including members of the royal family, indulged in embroidery of the rumals or handkerchiefs as a part of a marriage gifts or dowry to their daughters. The handkerchiefs were made in geometrical shapes of square and rectangle using very fine hand made silk which
155-1119: Is a generic word. In 2017, KVIC and the government of India fought a case at the EUIPO against a German company that had trademarked the word. While KVIC obtained the latest trademark registration in Bhutan on 9 July 2021; trademark registration was granted in UAE on 28 June 2021, and the organisation registered the trademark in Mexico in December 2020. The KVIC enrolled 2624 functional Khadi institutions in India where decentralized units of Kshetriya Shri Gandhi Ashram in Uttar Pradesh and Uttarakhand , Zila Khadi Gramodyog Sangh in Bihar and Jharkhand , Sarvodaya Sangh in Tamilnadu have survived as
186-524: Is a hand-spun and woven natural fibre cloth promoted by Mahatma Gandhi as swadeshi (self-sufficiency) for the freedom struggle of the Indian subcontinent , and the term is used throughout India , Pakistan and Bangladesh . The first piece of the hand-woven cloth was manufactured in the Sabarmati Ashram during 1917–18. The coarseness of the cloth led Gandhi to call it khadi . The cloth
217-523: Is a heritage of Kashmir , which was adopted in Basohli and Chamba , but was improved upon by adopting themes from the special Mughal art of Chamba miniature paintings ; this art form flourished during the 18th and 19th centuries. Following the downfall of the Mughal empire many expert artists of this craft migrated to the hill region of Himachal Pradesh . Raja Umed Singh of Chamba (1748–68) patronized
248-718: Is believed that King Shahil Varman ruled until 940 AD. From then onwards the State of Chamba continued to be ruled by different kings of the Mushana Rajput Dynasty from their capital at Champavati, which later came to be known as Chamba. Following are some of more famous kings of Chamba in Himachal Pradesh: 32°34′12″N 76°7′48″E / 32.57000°N 76.13000°E / 32.57000; 76.13000 Khaddar Khadi ( pronounced [kʰaːdiː] , Khādī ), derived from khaddar ,
279-535: Is made from cotton , but it may also include silk or wool , which are all spun into yarn on a charkha . It is a versatile fabric that remains cool in summer and warm in winter. To improve its appearance, khadi is sometimes starched to give it a stiffer feel. It is widely accepted in various fashion circles. Greco-Roman merchants imported finer cotton in large quantities to the Roman Empire . In medieval times, cotton textiles were imported to Rome through
310-603: The Edwardian era (1901–1914) the Swadeshi movement of boycotting foreign cloth remained prominent. During the first two decades of the 20th century it was backed by nationalist politicians and Indian mill owners. In 1922, Mahatma Gandhi requested the Indian National Congress (INC) to start a khadi department. In 1924, due to a large amount of work, a semi-independent body All India Khadi Board (AIKB)
341-608: The Nari Shakti Puraskar award for her work in helping to revive the art by organising courses. The "2018" award was made in the Presidential Palace by the President of India. Known as a "needle wonder" Chamba Rumal is now made in square and rectangular shapes. The materials used still consist of muslin, malmal, khaddar (a coarse fabric), fine charcoal or brush, and silk threads without knots. Using
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#1732801597275372-713: The maritime Silk Road . Arabian - Surat merchants traded cotton textiles to Basra and Baghdad from three areas of Gujarat, the Coromandel Coast and the East Coast of India. To the east, trade reached China via Java. 14th-century Moroccan traveler Ibn Battuta mentioned Delhi sultan Muhammad bin Tughluq sending five varieties of cloth to the Yuan emperor in China. Some of the textiles are stored in repositories of
403-487: The KVIC into existence as a statutory organisation the following year. After Independence, the government reserved some types of textile production, such as towel manufacturing for the handloom sector, which resulted in a deskilling of traditional weavers and a boost for the power loom sector. Private sector enterprises have been able to make handloom weaving somewhat remunerative and the government also continues to promote
434-615: The Victoria and Albert Museum, London. After the First Indian War of Independence in 1857, domestic textile production by mill or traditional methods declined to its lowest levels before khadi emerged as a "silent economic revolution" as an outcome of a long and laborious evolutionary process. The American Civil War (1861–1865) caused a raw cotton crisis in Cottonopolis Britain. Substitute Indian cotton at
465-451: The artists. These artists drew the outlines of the design on the fabric to be embroidered using fine charcoal and also suggested suitable colours to be adopted on the theological themes of Krishna 's raas-leela of the epic Mahabharata , and themes from Ramayana or scenes of marriage and game hunting to be embroidered; themes also included events from Gita Govinda , Bhagvat purana or only Radha-Krishna and Shiva - Parvati . Inspiration
496-635: The capital was shifted from Bharmour to present day Chamba Town. The rulers of Chamba State patronized artists of the Pahari painting style. Between 1809 and 1846 Chamba was tributary to Jammu . In 1821, Chamba annexed Bhadrawah State. On 9 Mar 1846, Chamba State became a British protectorate . The rulers of Chamba princely state belonged to the Suryavanshi Mushana ( मूषाण ) Rajput Dynasty. Raja Shahil Verman, around 920 AD, shifted his capital from Bharmaur to present-day Chamba Town. It
527-563: The ideology of Congress that had led the non-cooperation movement , so khadi organisations like the Noakhali Ambika Kalinga Charitable (NAKC) Trust, started on Gandhi's visit in 1946, were discouraged. Pakistan prime minister Firoz Khan Noon (1957–58), who remained Governor East Pakistan (1950-1953) was liberal towards khadi and established The Khadi and Cottage Industry Association in 1952. Sheikh Mujibur Rahman 's historic 7 March speech of Bangabandhu refueled
558-777: The late 6th century. It was part of the States of the Punjab Hills of the Punjab Province in India from 1859 to 1947. Its last ruler signed the instrument of accession to the Indian Union of 15 April 1948. Chamba is situated in the bosom of the Himalaya Mountains , and its boundaries are on the northwest, west, and northeast by Kishtwar and Doda district of Jammu region; on the east, Lahaul ; and on
589-459: The market with cheaper similar work from other regions. To revive this art work, in the later part of 1970s, at the initiative of Usha Bhagat (a friend of Indira Gandhi ), the DCC located the original designs of this art work from museums and collections, and women artists were then trained in this art work. As a result 16 designs have been recreated and quality restored. Lalita Vakil was awarded
620-669: The momentum to produce khadi. A sudden wave of demand persisted in Bangladesh for many years after the country's independence from Pakistan in 1971. In 1975, some years after the independence of Bangladesh, the NAKC trust was reformed and renamed the Gandhi Ashram Trust . Muslin was registered under Bangladesh as its geographical indication in 2020. The soft or refined khadi is known as muslin khadi. Researchers have tried to replicate muslin and identified phuti carpas as
651-692: The role of rural cottage industries in its Industrial Policy Resolution. In 1948, Shri Ekambernathan invented amber charkha . The All India Khadi & Village Industries Board (AIKVIB) was set up in January 1953 by the Government of India. In 1955 it was decided that a statutory body, the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), should replace the Board and the KVIC Act was passed in 1956, which brought
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#1732801597275682-487: The southeast and south, the districts of Kangra and Gurdaspur . The Ravi River flows through this district, and many hydroelectric generating stations have been developed here. According to tradition, the ancient name of Chamba was Champa, and its predecessor state was known as Brahmpur. This site later became Bharmour around 550 AD when Raja Maru Verman came from Kalpagram to the Chamba Hills. Around 920 CE,
713-442: The use of Khadi through various initiatives. Prime Minister Narendra Modi during Khadi Utsav (27 Aug 2022), said "Khadi was ignored after Independence due to which weavers in the country suffered" and asserted that khadi is a movement to help the poor, and further claimed that the KVIC is a statutory organisation engaged in promoting and developing khadi and village industries. The Pakistan government saw khadi as emblematic of
744-596: The variety from the DNA of cotton and from motifs used in making muslin sarees from Victoria & Albert Museum London of 1710 collection with 350 muslin sarees. The KVIC holds the exclusive rights to use the trademarks khadi and Khadi India . The National Internet Exchange of India Domain Dispute Policy Arbitration Tribunal in New Delhi rejected a private entity's claim that khadi
775-701: Was also provided from the frescoes done in the Rang Mahal of Chamba. The women then executed the embroidery. In early 19th century, when Maharaja Ranjit Singh ruled over the Punjab Hill States , Sikh style of painting also influenced the Chamba Rumal. Following Indian Independence , this art work lost its royal patronage, and quality deteriorated due to commercialization by making many cheaper varieties such as table cloths, cushion covers, clothing, and even various machine made items to compete in
806-452: Was expensive and of poor quality, and weavers preferred yarn produced by mills because it was more robust and consistent in quality. Gandhi argued that the mill owners would deny handloom weavers an opportunity to buy yarn because they would prefer to create a monopoly for their own cloth. When some people complained about the costliness of khadi to Gandhi, he only wore dhoti , though he used wool shawls when it got cold. Some were able to make
837-639: Was formed which liaisoned with the INC's khadi department at the provincial and district levels. In 1925, the All India Spinner Association (AISA) was formed comprising the khadi department and AIKB. Mahatma Gandhi was the founder of AISA. He made it obligatory for all members of the INC to spin cotton themselves and pay their dues in yarn. Gandhi collected large sums of money to create grassroots-level khadi institutions to encourage spinning and weaving which were certified by AISA. Handspun yarn
868-633: Was listed as "Chamba Rumal" under the GI Act 1999 of the Government of India with registration confirmed by the Controller General of Patents Designs and Trademarks under Classes 24 as Textile and Textile Goods, vide application number 79. Earliest reported form of this rumal is the one made by Bebe Nanaki , sister of Guru Nanak in the 16th century, which is now preserved in the Gurudwara at Hoshiarpur . The Victoria Albert Museum, London has
899-598: Was marked with its own changing dynamics. Initially, a clear emphasis could be seen on using khadi as an economic solution due to stagnation, from 1934 onwards the fabric became something that villagers could use for themselves. In 1921, Gandhi went to Chandina Upazila in Comilla, Bangladesh, to inspire local weavers and consequently in the greater Comilla region, weaving centers were developed in Mainamati , Muradnagar , Gauripur and Chandina. In 1948, India recognized
930-627: Was obtained from the Punjab or muslin cloth, a product of Bengal . Women created highly ornamental patterns using untwined thread made of silk produced in Sialkot (in Pakistan), Amritsar and Ludhiana . The embroidery technique adopted, called the dohara tanka or double satin stitch, created distinct identical patterns on both faces of the fabric, which were attractive when viewed even from distance of 10 ft and more. The dohara tanka method
961-457: Was sourced at cheap prices as the British sought to supplement raw materials to Manchester-Lancashire area textile mills. During Victorian era (1837–1901), 47 mills existed in the 1870s but Indians still bought clothes at an artificially inflated price, since the colonial government exported the raw materials for cloth to British fabric mills, then re-imported the finished cloth to India. In