130-676: The British Columbia Shore Station Oceanographic Program is a sea surface temperature and salinity monitoring program on the Canadian coast of the northeast Pacific Ocean . The program is administered by Fisheries and Oceans Canada , and regroups 12 lighthouse stations in British Columbia . Most lighthouses are staffed by the Department of Fisheries and Oceans , but some have independent contractors instead. The practice of recording ocean water temperature and salinity levels in
260-517: A biodiverse range of larger and smaller animal life. Light is only able to penetrate the top 200 metres (660 ft) so this is the only part of the sea where plants can grow. The surface layers are often deficient in biologically active nitrogen compounds. The marine nitrogen cycle consists of complex microbial transformations which include the fixation of nitrogen , its assimilation, nitrification , anammox and denitrification. Some of these processes take place in deep water so that where there
390-683: A mediterranean sea ) or wholly (as inland seas ) enclosed by land . However, an exception to this is the Sargasso Sea which has no coastline and lies within a circular current, the North Atlantic Gyre . Seas are generally larger than lakes and contain salt water, but the Sea of Galilee is a freshwater lake . The United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea states that all of the ocean
520-422: A channel in the seabed. It may occur at a gap in a sandbar or near a man-made structure such as a groyne . These strong currents can have a velocity of 3 ft (0.9 m) per second, can form at different places at different stages of the tide and can carry away unwary bathers. Temporary upwelling currents occur when the wind pushes water away from the land and deeper water rises to replace it. This cold water
650-530: A fraction of a millimetre thick) in the infrared or the top centimetre or so in the microwave are also used, but must be adjusted to be compatible with the bulk temperature." The temperature further below that is called ocean temperature or deeper ocean temperature . Ocean temperatures (more than 20 metres below the surface) also vary by region and time, and they contribute to variations in ocean heat content and ocean stratification . The increase of both ocean surface temperature and deeper ocean temperature
780-400: A height of less than three feet, so they often pass unnoticed at this stage. In contrast, ocean surface waves caused by winds have wavelengths of a few hundred feet, travel at up to 65 miles per hour (105 km/h) and are up to 45 feet (14 metres) high. As a tsunami moves into shallower water its speed decreases, its wavelength shortens and its amplitude increases enormously, behaving in
910-405: A higher altitude (e.g., at the 500 hPa level, or 5.9 km) can lead to tropical cyclogenesis at lower water temperatures, as a certain lapse rate is required to force the atmosphere to be unstable enough for convection. In a moist atmosphere, this lapse rate is 6.5 °C/km, while in an atmosphere with less than 100% relative humidity , the required lapse rate is 9.8 °C/km. At
1040-507: A large and multidisciplinary field: it examines the properties of seawater ; studies waves , tides , and currents ; charts coastlines and maps the seabeds ; and studies marine life . The subfield dealing with the sea's motion, its forces, and the forces acting upon it is known as physical oceanography . Marine biology (biological oceanography) studies the plants , animals , and other organisms inhabiting marine ecosystems . Both are informed by chemical oceanography , which studies
1170-645: A lesser degree due to its greater thermal inertia . On calm days, the temperature can vary by 6 °C (10 °F). The temperature of the ocean at depth lags the Earth's atmosphere temperature by 15 days per 10 metres (33 ft), which means for locations like the Aral Sea , temperatures near its bottom reach a maximum in December and a minimum in May and June. Near the coastline, some offshore and longshore winds move
1300-401: A low-pressure system, can raise the surface of the sea at high tide dramatically. The Earth is composed of a magnetic central core , a mostly liquid mantle and a hard rigid outer shell (or lithosphere ), which is composed of the Earth's rocky crust and the deeper mostly solid outer layer of the mantle. On land the crust is known as the continental crust while under the sea it is known as
1430-534: A new world of creatures living on the seabed that scientists had not previously known to exist. Some like the detrivores rely on organic material falling to the ocean floor. Others cluster round deep sea hydrothermal vents where mineral-rich flows of water emerge from the seabed, supporting communities whose primary producers are sulphide-oxidising chemoautotrophic bacteria, and whose consumers include specialised bivalves, sea anemones, barnacles, crabs, worms and fish, often found nowhere else. A dead whale sinking to
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#17327719941661560-469: A one-day lag. NOAA's GOES (Geostationary Orbiting Earth Satellites) satellites are geo-stationary above the Western Hemisphere which enables them to deliver SST data on an hourly basis with only a few hours of lag time. There are several difficulties with satellite-based absolute SST measurements. First, in infrared remote sensing methodology the radiation emanates from the top "skin" of
1690-536: A saline body of water and therefore solely a sea in the sense of the common use of the word, like all other saltwater lakes called sea. Earth is the only known planet with seas of liquid water on its surface, although Mars possesses ice caps and similar planets in other solar systems may have oceans. Earth's 1,335,000,000 cubic kilometers (320,000,000 cu mi) of sea contain about 97.2 percent of its known water and covers approximately 71 percent of its surface. Another 2.15% of Earth's water
1820-471: A very high range in bays or estuaries . Submarine earthquakes arising from tectonic plate movements under the oceans can lead to destructive tsunamis , as can volcanoes, huge landslides , or the impact of large meteorites . The seas have been an integral element for humans throughout history and culture. Humans harnessing and studying the seas have been recorded since ancient times and evidenced well into prehistory , while its modern scientific study
1950-414: A wide array of species including corals (only six of which contribute to reef formation). Marine primary producers – plants and microscopic organisms in the plankton – are widespread and very essential for the ecosystem. It has been estimated that half of the world's oxygen is produced by phytoplankton. About 45 percent of the sea's primary production of living material
2080-529: Is "sea". The law of the sea has at its center the definition of the boundaries of the ocean, clarifying its application in marginal seas . But what bodies of water other than the sea the law applies to is being crucially negotiated in the case of the Caspian Sea and its status as "sea", basically revolving around the issue of the Caspian Sea about either being factually an oceanic sea or only
2210-492: Is 5 years. When this warming or cooling occurs for only seven to nine months, it is classified as El Niño/La Niña "conditions"; when it occurs for more than that period, it is classified as El Niño/La Niña "episodes". The sign of an El Niño in the sea surface temperature pattern is when warm water spreads from the west Pacific and the Indian Ocean to the east Pacific. It takes the rain with it, causing extensive drought in
2340-449: Is a continuous circulation of water in the oceans. Warm surface currents cool as they move away from the tropics, and the water becomes denser and sinks. The cold water moves back towards the equator as a deep sea current, driven by changes in the temperature and density of the water, before eventually welling up again towards the surface. Deep seawater has a temperature between −2 °C (28 °F) and 5 °C (41 °F) in all parts of
2470-399: Is a point of land jutting out into the sea and a larger promontory is known as a cape . The indentation of a coastline, especially between two headlands, is a bay , a small bay with a narrow inlet is a cove and a large bay may be referred to as a gulf . Coastlines are influenced by several factors including the strength of the waves arriving on the shore, the gradient of the land margin,
2600-411: Is an important effect of climate change on oceans . The extent of the ocean surface down into the ocean is influenced by the amount of mixing that takes place between the surface water and the deeper water. This depends on the temperature: in the tropics the warm surface layer of about 100 m is quite stable and does not mix much with deeper water, while near the poles winter cooling and storms makes
2730-500: Is an important driver of North Atlantic SST and Northern Hemisphere climate, but the mechanisms controlling AMO variability remain poorly understood. Atmospheric internal variability, changes in ocean circulation, or anthropogenic drivers may control the multidecadal temperature variability associated with AMO. These changes in North Atlantic SST may influence winds in the subtropical North Pacific and produce warmer SSTs in
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#17327719941662860-487: Is an upwelling of cold waters, and also near estuaries where land-sourced nutrients are present, plant growth is higher. This means that the most productive areas, rich in plankton and therefore also in fish, are mainly coastal. There is a broader spectrum of higher animal taxa in the sea than on land, many marine species have yet to be discovered and the number known to science is expanding annually. Some vertebrates such as seabirds , seals and sea turtles return to
2990-408: Is because the ocean absorbs about 90% of excess heat generated by climate change . Sea surface temperature (SST), or ocean surface temperature, is the water temperature close to the ocean 's surface. The exact meaning of surface varies according to the measurement method used, but it is between 1 millimetre (0.04 in) and 20 metres (70 ft) below the sea surface. For comparison,
3120-556: Is called oceanography and maritime space is governed by the law of the sea , with admiralty law regulating human interactions at sea. The seas provide substantial supplies of food for humans, mainly fish , but also shellfish , mammals and seaweed , whether caught by fishermen or farmed underwater. Other human uses of the seas include trade , travel, mineral extraction , power generation , warfare , and leisure activities such as swimming , sailing , and scuba diving . Many of these activities create marine pollution . The sea
3250-478: Is contributed by diatoms . Much larger algae, commonly known as seaweeds , are important locally; Sargassum forms floating drifts, while kelp form seabed forests. Flowering plants in the form of seagrasses grow in " meadows " in sandy shallows, mangroves line the coast in tropical and subtropical regions and salt-tolerant plants thrive in regularly inundated salt marshes . All of these habitats are able to sequester large quantities of carbon and support
3380-537: Is fairly constant, such as the northwest coast of South America . Its values are important within numerical weather prediction as the sea surface temperature influences the atmosphere above, such as in the formation of sea breezes and sea fog . It is very likely that global mean sea surface temperature increased by 0.88°C between 1850–1900 and 2011–2020 due to global warming , with most of that warming (0.60°C) occurring between 1980 and 2020. The temperatures over land are rising faster than ocean temperatures . This
3510-481: Is frozen, found in the sea ice covering the Arctic Ocean , the ice cap covering Antarctica and its adjacent seas , and various glaciers and surface deposits around the world. The remainder (about 0.65% of the whole) form underground reservoirs or various stages of the water cycle , containing the freshwater encountered and used by most terrestrial life : vapor in the air , the clouds it slowly forms,
3640-401: Is likely to reduce levels of oxygen in surface waters since the solubility of oxygen in water falls at higher temperatures. Ocean deoxygenation is projected to increase hypoxia by 10%, and triple suboxic waters (oxygen concentrations 98% less than the mean surface concentrations), for each 1 °C of upper-ocean warming. The amount of light that penetrates the sea depends on the angle of
3770-656: Is made by sensing the ocean radiation in two or more wavelengths within the infrared part of the electromagnetic spectrum or other parts of the spectrum which can then be empirically related to SST. These wavelengths are chosen because they are: The satellite-measured SST provides both a synoptic view of the ocean and a high frequency of repeat views, allowing the examination of basin-wide upper ocean dynamics not possible with ships or buoys. NASA's (National Aeronautic and Space Administration) Moderate Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer (MODIS) SST satellites have been providing global SST data since 2000, available with
3900-813: Is maintained by the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC). Between 1985 and 1994, an extensive array of moored and drifting buoys was deployed across the equatorial Pacific Ocean designed to help monitor and predict the El Niño phenomenon. Weather satellites have been available to determine sea surface temperature information since 1967, with the first global composites created during 1970. Since 1982, satellites have been increasingly utilized to measure SST and have allowed its spatial and temporal variation to be viewed more fully. Satellite measurements of SST are in reasonable agreement with in situ temperature measurements. The satellite measurement
4030-407: Is medium confidence that the tropical Pacific will transition to a mean pattern resembling that of El Niño on centennial time scale, but there is still high uncertainty in tropical Pacific SST projections because it is difficult to capture El Niño variability in climate models. Overall, scientists project that all regions of the oceans will warm by 2050, but models disagree for SST changes expected in
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4160-530: Is near the Mariana Islands , a volcanic archipelago in the West Pacific. Its deepest point is 10.994 kilometres (nearly 7 miles) below the surface of the sea. The zone where land meets sea is known as the coast and the part between the lowest spring tides and the upper limit reached by splashing waves is the shore . A beach is the accumulation of sand or shingle on the shore. A headland
4290-541: Is often rich in nutrients and creates blooms of phytoplankton and a great increase in the productivity of the sea. Tides are the regular rise and fall in water level experienced by seas and oceans in response to the gravitational influences of the Moon and the Sun, and the effects of the Earth's rotation. During each tidal cycle, at any given place the water rises to a maximum height known as "high tide" before ebbing away again to
4420-595: Is the interconnected system of all the Earth's oceanic waters, including the Atlantic , Pacific , Indian , Southern and Arctic Oceans . However, the word "sea" can also be used for many specific, much smaller bodies of seawater, such as the North Sea or the Red Sea . There is no sharp distinction between seas and oceans , though generally seas are smaller, and are often partly (as marginal seas or particularly as
4550-419: Is turned into kinetic energy, creating a shallow wave, a tsunami, radiating outwards at a velocity proportional to the square root of the depth of the water and which therefore travels much faster in the open ocean than on a continental shelf. In the deep open sea, tsunamis have wavelengths of around 80 to 300 miles (130 to 480 km), travel at speeds of over 600 miles per hour (970 km/h) and usually have
4680-651: The Coriolis effect . The surface currents flow in a clockwise direction in the Northern Hemisphere and anticlockwise in the Southern Hemisphere. The water moving away from the equator is warm, and that flowing in the reverse direction has lost most of its heat. These currents tend to moderate the Earth's climate, cooling the equatorial region and warming regions at higher latitudes. Global climate and weather forecasts are powerfully affected by
4810-493: The Earth's atmosphere within a short distance of the shore. The thermohaline circulation has a major impact on average sea surface temperature throughout most of the world's oceans. Warm sea surface temperatures can develop and strengthen cyclones over the ocean . Tropical cyclones can also cause a cool wake. This is due to turbulent mixing of the upper 30 metres (100 ft) of the ocean. Sea surface temperature changes during
4940-857: The Mediterranean and Red Sea with the Egyptian Hannu reaching the Arabian Peninsula and the African Coast around 2750 BC. In the first millennium BC, Phoenicians and Greeks established colonies throughout the Mediterranean and the Black Sea . Around 500 BC, the Carthaginian navigator Hanno left a detailed periplus of an Atlantic journey that reached at least Senegal and possibly Mount Cameroon . In
5070-584: The early Mediaeval period , the Vikings crossed the North Atlantic and even reached the northeastern fringes of North America. Novgorodians had also been sailing the White Sea since the 13th century or before. Meanwhile, the seas along the eastern and southern Asian coast were used by Arab and Chinese traders. The Chinese Ming Dynasty had a fleet of 317 ships with 37,000 men under Zheng He in
5200-614: The hundred-year wave ) they are designed against. Rogue waves, however, have been documented at heights above 25 meters (82 ft). The top of a wave is known as the crest, the lowest point between waves is the trough and the distance between the crests is the wavelength. The wave is pushed across the surface of the sea by the wind, but this represents a transfer of energy and not a horizontal movement of water. As waves approach land and move into shallow water , they change their behavior. If approaching at an angle, waves may bend ( refraction ) or wrap rocks and headlands ( diffraction ). When
5330-422: The oceanic crust . The latter is composed of relatively dense basalt and is some five to ten kilometres (three to six miles) thick. The relatively thin lithosphere floats on the weaker and hotter mantle below and is fractured into a number of tectonic plates . In mid-ocean, magma is constantly being thrust through the seabed between adjoining plates to form mid-oceanic ridges and here convection currents within
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5460-436: The photosynthetic activity of these plants produces oxygen, which dissolves in the seawater and is used by marine animals. At night, photosynthesis stops, and the amount of dissolved oxygen declines. In the deep sea, where insufficient light penetrates for plants to grow, there is very little dissolved oxygen. In its absence, organic material is broken down by anaerobic bacteria producing hydrogen sulphide . Climate change
5590-421: The rain falling from them, and the lakes and rivers spontaneously formed as its waters flow again and again to the sea. The scientific study of water and Earth's water cycle is hydrology ; hydrodynamics studies the physics of water in motion. The more recent study of the sea in particular is oceanography . This began as the study of the shape of the ocean's currents but has since expanded into
5720-444: The sea surface skin temperature relates to the top 20 or so microns of the ocean's surface. The definition proposed by IPCC for sea surface temperature does not specify the number of metres but focuses more on measurement techniques: Sea surface temperature is "the subsurface bulk temperature in the top few metres of the ocean, measured by ships, buoys and drifters. [...] Satellite measurements of skin temperature (uppermost layer;
5850-412: The swash moves beach material seawards. Under their influence, the sand and shingle on the beach is ground together and abraded. Around high tide, the power of a storm wave impacting on the foot of a cliff has a shattering effect as air in cracks and crevices is compressed and then expands rapidly with release of pressure. At the same time, sand and pebbles have an erosive effect as they are thrown against
5980-572: The warm core that fuels tropical systems. This value is well above 16.1 °C (60.9 °F), the long term global average surface temperature of the oceans. However, this requirement can be considered only a general baseline because it assumes that the ambient atmospheric environment surrounding an area of disturbed weather presents average conditions. Tropical cyclones have intensified when SSTs were slightly below this standard temperature. Tropical cyclones are known to form even when normal conditions are not met. For example, cooler air temperatures at
6110-420: The water , carbon , and nitrogen cycles . The surface of water interacts with the atmosphere, exchanging properties such as particles and temperature, as well as currents . Surface currents are the water currents that are produced by the atmosphere's currents and its winds blowing over the surface of the water, producing wind waves , setting up through drag slow but stable circulations of water, as in
6240-411: The 500 hPa level, the air temperature averages −7 °C (18 °F) within the tropics, but air in the tropics is normally dry at this height, giving the air room to wet-bulb , or cool as it moistens, to a more favorable temperature that can then support convection. A wet-bulb temperature at 500 hPa in a tropical atmosphere of −13.2 °C (8.2 °F) is required to initiate convection if
6370-569: The Austronesian " Lapita " peoples displayed great feats of navigation, reaching out from the Bismarck Archipelago to as far away as Fiji , Tonga , and Samoa . Their descendants continued to travel thousands of miles between tiny islands on outrigger canoes , and in the process they found many new islands, including Hawaii , Easter Island (Rapa Nui), and New Zealand. The Ancient Egyptians and Phoenicians explored
6500-405: The Earth , clarified the process of sedimentation , and assisted the study of volcanism and earthquakes . A characteristic of seawater is that it is salty. Salinity is usually measured in parts per thousand ( ‰ or per mil), and the open ocean has about 35 grams (1.2 oz) solids per litre, a salinity of 35 ‰. The Mediterranean Sea is slightly higher at 38 ‰, while the salinity of
6630-420: The Earth is closest to the Moon because it is also where the effect of the Moon's gravity is stronger. On the opposite side of the Earth, the lunar force is at its weakest and this causes another bulge to form. As the Moon rotates around the Earth, so do these ocean bulges move around the Earth. The gravitational attraction of the Sun is also working on the seas, but its effect on tides is less powerful than that of
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#17327719941666760-411: The Earth to make a complete revolution and return the Moon to its previous position relative to an observer. The Moon's mass is some 27 million times smaller than the Sun, but it is 400 times closer to the Earth. Tidal force or tide-raising force decreases rapidly with distance, so the moon has more than twice as great an effect on tides as the Sun. A bulge is formed in the ocean at the place where
6890-413: The Moon, and when the Sun, Moon and Earth are all aligned (full moon and new moon), the combined effect results in the high "spring tides". In contrast, when the Sun is at 90° from the Moon as viewed from Earth, the combined gravitational effect on tides is less causing the lower "neap tides". A storm surge can occur when high winds pile water up against the coast in a shallow area and this, coupled with
7020-556: The Southern Hemisphere in the Roaring Forties , long, organised masses of water called swell roll across the ocean. If the wind dies down, the wave formation is reduced, but already-formed waves continue to travel in their original direction until they meet land. The size of the waves depends on the fetch , the distance that the wind has blown over the water and the strength and duration of that wind. When waves meet others coming from different directions, interference between
7150-517: The added CO 2 is absorbed by the oceans, forming carbonic acid and lowering the pH (now below 8.1 ) through a process called ocean acidification . The extent of further ocean chemistry changes, including ocean pH, will depend on climate change mitigation efforts taken by nations and their governments. The amount of oxygen found in seawater depends primarily on the plants growing in it. These are mainly algae, including phytoplankton , with some vascular plants such as seagrasses . In daylight,
7280-606: The area was initiated in 1914 at the Pacific Biological Station in Nanaimo . Data is collected daily around the time of the daytime high tide. The methodology of the sampling was originally designed by oceanographer John P. Tully , and was never modified in order to maintain the homogeneity of the data. The program expanded to 12 stations in the 1930s. Over time, more stations joined the programs while others stopped reporting. Currently, twelve stations remain in
7410-411: The behavior of elements and molecules within the oceans: particularly, at the moment, the ocean's role in the carbon cycle and carbon dioxide 's role in the increasing acidification of seawater. Marine and maritime geography charts the shape and shaping of the sea, while marine geology (geological oceanography) has provided evidence of continental drift and the composition and structure of
7540-690: The behavior of the Earth's atmosphere above, so their initialization into atmospheric models is important. While sea surface temperature is important for tropical cyclogenesis , it is also important in determining the formation of sea fog and sea breezes. Heat from underlying warmer waters can significantly modify an air mass over distances as short as 35 kilometres (22 mi) to 40 kilometres (25 mi). For example, southwest of Northern Hemisphere extratropical cyclones , curved cyclonic flow bringing cold air across relatively warm water bodies can lead to narrow lake-effect snow (or sea effect) bands. Those bands bring strong localized precipitation , often in
7670-529: The bottom of the ocean provides food for an assembly of organisms which similarly rely largely on the actions of sulphur-reducing bacteria. Such places support unique biomes where many new microbes and other lifeforms have been discovered. Humans have travelled the seas since they first built sea-going craft. Mesopotamians were using bitumen to caulk their reed boats and, a little later, masted sails . By c. 3000 BC, Austronesians on Taiwan had begun spreading into maritime Southeast Asia . Subsequently,
7800-467: The boundaries between the land and sea, the slightly denser oceanic plates slide beneath the continental plates and more subduction trenches are formed. As they grate together, the continental plates are deformed and buckle causing mountain building and seismic activity. The Earth's deepest trench is the Mariana Trench which extends for about 2,500 kilometres (1,600 miles) across the seabed. It
7930-516: The case of the ocean sustaining deep-sea ocean currents . Deep-sea currents, known together as the global conveyor belt , carry cold water from near the poles to every ocean and significantly influence Earth's climate. Tides , the generally twice-daily rise and fall of sea levels , are caused by Earth's rotation and the gravitational effects of the Moon and, to a lesser extent, of the Sun . Tides may have
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#17327719941668060-437: The coast scour out channels and transport sand and pebbles away from their place of origin. Sediment carried to the sea by rivers settles on the seabed causing deltas to form in estuaries. All these materials move back and forth under the influence of waves, tides and currents. Dredging removes material and deepens channels but may have unexpected effects elsewhere on the coastline. Governments make efforts to prevent flooding of
8190-446: The composition and hardness of the coastal rock, the inclination of the off-shore slope and the changes of the level of the land due to local uplift or submergence. Normally, waves roll towards the shore at the rate of six to eight per minute and these are known as constructive waves as they tend to move material up the beach and have little erosive effect. Storm waves arrive on shore in rapid succession and are known as destructive waves as
8320-598: The continental shelf. Alternatively, marine habitats can be divided vertically into pelagic (open water), demersal (just above the seabed) and benthic (sea bottom) habitats. A third division is by latitude : from polar seas with ice shelves, sea ice and icebergs, to temperate and tropical waters. Coral reefs, the so-called "rainforests of the sea", occupy less than 0.1 percent of the world's ocean surface, yet their ecosystems include 25 percent of all marine species. The best-known are tropical coral reefs such as Australia's Great Barrier Reef , but cold water reefs harbour
8450-522: The currents. Most of the smallest organisms are the larvae of fish and marine invertebrates which liberate eggs in vast numbers because the chance of any one embryo surviving to maturity is so minute. The zooplankton feed on phytoplankton and on each other and form a basic part of the complex food chain that extends through variously sized fish and other nektonic organisms to large squid , sharks , porpoises , dolphins and whales . Some marine creatures make large migrations, either to other regions of
8580-433: The day. This is like the air above it, but to a lesser degree. There is less variation in sea surface temperature on breezy days than on calm days. Coastal sea surface temperatures can cause offshore winds to generate upwelling , which can significantly cool or warm nearby landmasses, but shallower waters over a continental shelf are often warmer. Onshore winds can cause a considerable warm-up even in areas where upwelling
8710-436: The depths of the ocean; however, the relative proportions of dissolved salts vary little across the oceans. The most abundant solid dissolved in seawater is sodium chloride . The water also contains salts of magnesium , calcium , potassium , and mercury , amongst many other elements, some in minute concentrations. A wide variety of organisms , including bacteria , protists , algae , plants, fungi , and animals live in
8840-410: The destruction may be caused by the flood water draining back into the sea after the tsunami has struck, dragging debris and people with it. Often several tsunami are caused by a single geological event and arrive at intervals of between eight minutes and two hours. The first wave to arrive on shore may not be the biggest or most destructive. Wind blowing over the surface of the sea causes friction at
8970-413: The direction of the wind. The friction between air and water caused by a gentle breeze on a pond causes ripples to form. A strong blow over the ocean causes larger waves as the moving air pushes against the raised ridges of water. The waves reach their maximum height when the rate at which they are travelling nearly matches the speed of the wind. In open water, when the wind blows continuously as happens in
9100-571: The early fifteenth century, sailing the Indian and Pacific Oceans. In the late fifteenth century, Western European mariners started making longer voyages of exploration in search of trade. Bartolomeu Dias rounded the Cape of Good Hope in 1487 and Vasco da Gama reached India via the Cape in 1498. Christopher Columbus sailed from Cadiz in 1492, attempting to reach the eastern lands of India and Japan by
9230-422: The food chain or precipitated into the deeper, more carbon-rich layers as dead soft tissue or in shells and bones as calcium carbonate . It circulates in this layer for long periods of time before either being deposited as sediment or being returned to surface waters through thermohaline circulation. The oceans are home to a diverse collection of life forms that use it as a habitat. Since sunlight illuminates only
9360-453: The form of snow , since large water bodies such as lakes efficiently store heat that results in significant temperature differences—larger than 13 °C (23 °F)—between the water surface and the air above. Because of this temperature difference, warmth and moisture are transported upward, condensing into vertically oriented clouds which produce snow showers. The temperature decrease with height and cloud depth are directly affected by both
9490-580: The gap and a circular movement of surface currents known as a gyre is formed. There are five main gyres in the world's oceans: two in the Pacific, two in the Atlantic and one in the Indian Ocean. Other smaller gyres are found in lesser seas and a single gyre flows around Antarctica . These gyres have followed the same routes for millennia, guided by the topography of the land, the wind direction and
9620-570: The globe. Seawater with a typical salinity of 35 ‰ has a freezing point of about −1.8 °C (28.8 °F). When its temperature becomes low enough, ice crystals form on the surface. These break into small pieces and coalesce into flat discs that form a thick suspension known as frazil . In calm conditions, this freezes into a thin flat sheet known as nilas , which thickens as new ice forms on its underside. In more turbulent seas, frazil crystals join into flat discs known as pancakes. These slide under each other and coalesce to form floes . In
9750-584: The greatest rates of warming in the tropical Indian Ocean, western Pacific Ocean, and western boundary currents of the subtropical gyres . However, the eastern Pacific Ocean, subtropical North Atlantic Ocean, and Southern Ocean have warmed more slowly than the global average or have experienced cooling since the 1950s. Ocean currents , such as the Atlantic Multidecadal Oscillation , can affect sea surface temperatures over several decades. The Atlantic Multidecadal Oscillation (AMO)
9880-497: The immediate sea surface, general temperature measurements are accompanied by a reference to the specific depth of measurement. This is because of significant differences encountered between measurements made at different depths, especially during the daytime when low wind speed and high sunshine conditions may lead to the formation of a warm layer at the ocean's surface and strong vertical temperature gradients (a diurnal thermocline ). Sea surface temperature measurements are confined to
10010-442: The interface between air and sea. Not only does this cause waves to form, but it also makes the surface seawater move in the same direction as the wind. Although winds are variable, in any one place they predominantly blow from a single direction and thus a surface current can be formed. Westerly winds are most frequent in the mid-latitudes while easterlies dominate the tropics. When water moves in this way, other water flows in to fill
10140-547: The land by the building of breakwaters , seawalls , dykes and levees and other sea defences. For instance, the Thames Barrier is designed to protect London from a storm surge, while the failure of the dykes and levees around New Orleans during Hurricane Katrina created a humanitarian crisis in the United States. The sea plays a part in the water or hydrological cycle , in which water evaporates from
10270-523: The land to breed but fish, cetaceans and sea snakes have a completely aquatic lifestyle and many invertebrate phyla are entirely marine. In fact, the oceans teem with life and provide many varying microhabitats. One of these is the surface film which, even though tossed about by the movement of waves, provides a rich environment and is home to bacteria, fungi , microalgae , protozoa , fish eggs and various larvae. The pelagic zone contains macro- and microfauna and myriad zooplankton which drift with
10400-404: The last 130 years due to the way they were taken. In the nineteenth century, measurements were taken in a bucket off a ship. However, there was a slight variation in temperature because of the differences in buckets. Samples were collected in either a wood or an uninsulated canvas bucket, but the canvas bucket cooled quicker than the wood bucket. The sudden change in temperature between 1940 and 1941
10530-648: The levels of salinity in different seas, the relative composition of the dissolved salts is stable throughout the world's oceans. Seawater is too saline for humans to drink safely, as the kidneys cannot excrete urine as salty as seawater. Although the amount of salt in the ocean remains relatively constant within the scale of millions of years, various factors affect the salinity of a body of water. Evaporation and by-product of ice formation (known as "brine rejection") increase salinity, whereas precipitation , sea ice melt, and runoff from land reduce it. The Baltic Sea , for example, has many rivers flowing into it, and thus
10660-508: The mantle tend to drive the two plates apart. Parallel to these ridges and nearer the coasts, one oceanic plate may slide beneath another oceanic plate in a process known as subduction . Deep trenches are formed here and the process is accompanied by friction as the plates grind together. The movement proceeds in jerks which cause earthquakes, heat is produced and magma is forced up creating underwater mountains, some of which may form chains of volcanic islands near to deep trenches. Near some of
10790-432: The mid-levels of the troposphere , roughly at the 500 hPa level, is normally a requirement for development. However, when dry air is found at the same height, temperatures at 500 hPa need to be even colder as dry atmospheres require a greater lapse rate for instability than moist atmospheres. At heights near the tropopause , the 30-year average temperature (as measured in the period encompassing 1961 through 1990)
10920-416: The minimum "low tide" level. As the water recedes, it uncovers more and more of the foreshore , also known as the intertidal zone. The difference in height between the high tide and low tide is known as the tidal range or tidal amplitude. Most places experience two high tides each day, occurring at intervals of about 12 hours and 25 minutes. This is half the 24 hours and 50 minute period that it takes for
11050-539: The northern Red Sea can reach 41‰. In contrast, some landlocked hypersaline lakes have a much higher salinity, for example, the Dead Sea has 300 grams (11 oz) dissolved solids per litre (300 ‰). While the constituents of table salt ( sodium and chloride ) make up about 85 percent of the solids in solution, there are also other metal ions such as magnesium and calcium , and negative ions including sulphate , carbonate , and bromide . Despite variations in
11180-730: The novel means of travelling westwards. He made landfall instead on an island in the Caribbean Sea and a few years later, the Venetian navigator John Cabot reached Newfoundland . The Italian Amerigo Vespucci , after whom America was named, explored the South American coastline in voyages made between 1497 and 1502, discovering the mouth of the Amazon River . In 1519 the Portuguese navigator Ferdinand Magellan led
11310-440: The ocean , approximately the top 0.01 mm or less, which may not represent the bulk temperature of the upper meter of ocean due primarily to effects of solar surface heating during the daytime, reflected radiation, as well as sensible heat loss and surface evaporation. All these factors make it somewhat difficult to compare satellite data to measurements from buoys or shipboard methods, complicating ground truth efforts. Secondly,
11440-484: The ocean depths caused by the movement of deep water masses. A main deep ocean current flows through all the world's oceans and is known as the thermohaline circulation or global conveyor belt. This movement is slow and is driven by differences in density of the water caused by variations in salinity and temperature. At high latitudes the water is chilled by the low atmospheric temperature and becomes saltier as sea ice crystallizes out. Both these factors make it denser, and
11570-440: The ocean on a seasonal basis or vertical migrations daily, often ascending to feed at night and descending to safety by day. Ships can introduce or spread invasive species through the discharge of ballast water or the transport of organisms that have accumulated as part of the fouling community on the hulls of vessels. The demersal zone supports many animals that feed on benthic organisms or seek protection from predators and
11700-471: The ocean, travels through the atmosphere as vapour, condenses , falls as rain or snow , thereby sustaining life on land, and largely returns to the sea. Even in the Atacama Desert , where little rain ever falls, dense clouds of fog known as the camanchaca blow in from the sea and support plant life. In central Asia and other large land masses, there are endorheic basins which have no outlet to
11830-423: The open pelagic zone. The organisms living in the sea range from whales 30 metres (98 feet) long to microscopic phytoplankton and zooplankton , fungi, and bacteria. Marine life plays an important part in the carbon cycle as photosynthetic organisms convert dissolved carbon dioxide into organic carbon and it is economically important to humans for providing fish for use as food. Life may have originated in
11960-430: The process of freezing, salt water and air are trapped between the ice crystals. Nilas may have a salinity of 12–15 ‰, but by the time the sea ice is one year old, this falls to 4–6 ‰. Seawater is slightly alkaline and had an average pH of about 8.2 over the past 300 million years. More recently, climate change has resulted in an increase of the carbon dioxide content of the atmosphere; about 30–40% of
12090-400: The program are: Sea surface temperature Sea surface temperature (or ocean surface temperature ) is the temperature of ocean water close to the surface. The exact meaning of surface varies in the literature and in practice. It is usually between 1 millimetre (0.04 in) and 20 metres (70 ft) below the sea surface. Sea surface temperatures greatly modify air masses in
12220-601: The program. Data from the Amphitrite point and Kains island lightstations, which started reporting in the mid-1930s, show an increase in coastal water temperatures of 0.08 °C per decade. On the other hand, data from the Entrance Island station, which started reporting around the same time, show an increase in coastal water temperatures of 0.15°C per decade. These trends are a result of anthropogenic climate change . The stations currently being monitored as part of
12350-418: The quality of the inflowing water. Oceans contain the greatest quantity of actively cycled carbon in the world and are second only to the lithosphere in the amount of carbon they store. The oceans' surface layer holds large amounts of dissolved organic carbon that is exchanged rapidly with the atmosphere. The deep layer's concentration of dissolved inorganic carbon is about 15 percent higher than that of
12480-417: The rocks. This tends to undercut the cliff, and normal weathering processes such as the action of frost follows, causing further destruction. Gradually, a wave-cut platform develops at the foot of the cliff and this has a protective effect, reducing further wave-erosion. Material worn from the margins of the land eventually ends up in the sea. Here it is subject to attrition as currents flowing parallel to
12610-409: The same way as a wind-generated wave in shallow water but on a vastly greater scale. Either the trough or the crest of a tsunami can arrive at the coast first. In the former case, the sea draws back and leaves subtidal areas close to the shore exposed which provides a useful warning for people on land. When the crest arrives, it does not usually break but rushes inland, flooding all in its path. Much of
12740-420: The satellite cannot look through clouds, creating a cool bias in satellite-derived SSTs within cloudy areas. However, passive microwave techniques can accurately measure SST and penetrate cloud cover. Within atmospheric sounder channels on weather satellites , which peak just above the ocean's surface, knowledge of the sea surface temperature is important to their calibration. Sea surface temperature affects
12870-530: The sea . The sea commonly refers to the Ocean , the interconnected body of seawaters that spans most of Earth. Particular seas are either marginal seas , second-order sections of the oceanic sea (e.g. the Mediterranean Sea ), or certain large, nearly landlocked bodies of water. The salinity of water bodies varies widely, being lower near the surface and the mouths of large rivers and higher in
13000-479: The sea and all the major groups of animals are represented there. Scientists differ as to precisely where in the sea life arose: the Miller-Urey experiments suggested a dilute chemical "soup" in open water, but more recent suggestions include volcanic hot springs, fine-grained clay sediments, or deep-sea " black smoker " vents, all of which would have provided protection from damaging ultraviolet radiation which
13130-436: The sea could be considered as brackish . Meanwhile, the Red Sea is very salty due to its high evaporation rate. Sea temperature depends on the amount of solar radiation falling on its surface. In the tropics, with the sun nearly overhead, the temperature of the surface layers can rise to over 30 °C (86 °F) while near the poles the temperature in equilibrium with the sea ice is about −2 °C (28 °F). There
13260-537: The sea level has been higher than it is today. The main factor affecting sea level over time is the result of changes in the oceanic crust, with a downward trend expected to continue in the very long term. At the last glacial maximum , some 20,000 years ago, the sea level was about 125 metres (410 ft) lower than in present times (2012). For at least the last 100 years, sea level has been rising at an average rate of about 1.8 millimetres (0.071 in) per year. Most of this rise can be attributed to an increase in
13390-399: The sea under the influence of gravity. A tsunami is an unusual form of wave caused by an infrequent powerful event such as an underwater earthquake or landslide, a meteorite impact, a volcanic eruption or a collapse of land into the sea. These events can temporarily lift or lower the surface of the sea in the affected area, usually by a few feet. The potential energy of the displaced seawater
13520-671: The sea, separated from the ocean by mountains or other natural geologic features that prevent the water draining away. The Caspian Sea is the largest one of these. Its main inflow is from the River Volga , there is no outflow and the evaporation of water makes it saline as dissolved minerals accumulate. The Aral Sea in Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan, and Pyramid Lake in the western United States are further examples of large, inland saline water-bodies without drainage. Some endorheic lakes are less salty, but all are sensitive to variations in
13650-657: The seabed provides a range of habitats on or under the surface of the substrate which are used by creatures adapted to these conditions. The tidal zone with its periodic exposure to the dehydrating air is home to barnacles , molluscs and crustaceans . The neritic zone has many organisms that need light to flourish. Here, among algal-encrusted rocks live sponges , echinoderms , polychaete worms, sea anemones and other invertebrates. Corals often contain photosynthetic symbionts and live in shallow waters where light penetrates. The extensive calcareous skeletons they extrude build up into coral reefs which are an important feature of
13780-427: The seabed. These provide a biodiverse habitat for reef-dwelling organisms. There is less sea life on the floor of deeper seas but marine life also flourishes around seamounts that rise from the depths, where fish and other animals congregate to spawn and feed. Close to the seabed live demersal fish that feed largely on pelagic organisms or benthic invertebrates. Exploration of the deep sea by submersibles revealed
13910-481: The seas, which offers a wide range of marine habitats and ecosystems , ranging vertically from the sunlit surface and shoreline to the great depths and pressures of the cold, dark abyssal zone , and in latitude from the cold waters under polar ice caps to the warm waters of coral reefs in tropical regions . Many of the major groups of organisms evolved in the sea and life may have started there. The ocean moderates Earth's climate and has important roles in
14040-418: The slope under the effect of gravity. The larger the breaking waves, the longer the beach and the more oblique the wave approach, the stronger is the longshore current. These currents can shift great volumes of sand or pebbles, create spits and make beaches disappear and water channels silt up. A rip current can occur when water piles up near the shore from advancing waves and is funnelled out to sea through
14170-518: The subpolar North Atlantic, the equatorial Pacific, and the Southern Ocean. The future global mean SST increase for the period 1995-2014 to 2081-2100 is 0.86°C under the most modest greenhouse gas emissions scenarios, and up to 2.89°C under the most severe emissions scenarios. There are a variety of techniques for measuring this parameter that can potentially yield different results because different things are actually being measured. Away from
14300-429: The sun, the weather conditions and the turbidity of the water. Much light gets reflected at the surface, and red light gets absorbed in the top few metres. Yellow and green light reach greater depths, and blue and violet light may penetrate as deep as 1,000 metres (3,300 ft). There is insufficient light for photosynthesis and plant growth beyond a depth of about 200 metres (660 ft). Over most of geologic time,
14430-430: The surface and loops back on itself. It takes a thousand years for this circulation pattern to be completed. Besides gyres, there are temporary surface currents that occur under specific conditions. When waves meet a shore at an angle, a longshore current is created as water is pushed along parallel to the coastline. The water swirls up onto the beach at right angles to the approaching waves but drains away straight down
14560-473: The surface layer and it remains there for much longer periods of time. Thermohaline circulation exchanges carbon between these two layers. Carbon enters the ocean as atmospheric carbon dioxide dissolves in the surface layers and is converted into carbonic acid , carbonate , and bicarbonate : It can also enter through rivers as dissolved organic carbon and is converted by photosynthetic organisms into organic carbon. This can either be exchanged throughout
14690-424: The surface layer denser and it mixes to great depth and then stratifies again in summer. This is why there is no simple single depth for ocean surface . The photic depth of the ocean is typically about 100 m and is related to this heated surface layer. It can be up to around 200 m deep in the open ocean . The sea surface temperature (SST) has a diurnal range , just like the Earth's atmosphere above, though to
14820-681: The surface temperature signature due to tropical cyclones . In general, an SST cooling is observed after the passing of a hurricane, primarily as the result of mixed layer deepening and surface heat losses. In the wake of several day long Saharan dust outbreaks across the adjacent northern Atlantic Ocean, sea surface temperatures are reduced 0.2 C to 0.4 C (0.3 to 0.7 F). Other sources of short-term SST fluctuation include extratropical cyclones , rapid influxes of glacial fresh water and concentrated phytoplankton blooms due to seasonal cycles or agricultural run-off. The tropical ocean has been warming faster than other regions since 1950, with
14950-453: The temperature of the sea due to climate change , and the resulting slight thermal expansion of the upper 500 metres (1,600 ft) of water. Additional contributions, as much as one quarter of the total, come from water sources on land, such as melting snow and glaciers and extraction of groundwater for irrigation and other agricultural and human needs. Wind blowing over the surface of a body of water forms waves that are perpendicular to
15080-534: The top portion of the ocean, known as the near-surface layer. The sea surface temperature was one of the first oceanographic variables to be measured. Benjamin Franklin suspended a mercury thermometer from a ship while travelling between the United States and Europe in his survey of the Gulf Stream in the late eighteenth century. SST was later measured by dipping a thermometer into a bucket of water that
15210-432: The two can produce broken, irregular seas. Constructive interference can cause individual (unexpected) rogue waves much higher than normal. Most waves are less than 3 m (10 ft) high and it is not unusual for strong storms to double or triple that height; offshore construction such as wind farms and oil platforms use metocean statistics from measurements in computing the wave forces (due to for instance
15340-431: The upper layers, the major part of the ocean exists in permanent darkness. As the different depth and temperature zones each provide habitat for a unique set of species, the marine environment as a whole encompasses an immense diversity of life. Marine habitats range from surface water to the deepest oceanic trenches , including coral reefs, kelp forests , seagrass meadows , tidepools , muddy, sandy and rocky seabeds, and
15470-498: The warm waters near the surface offshore, and replace them with cooler water from below in the process known as Ekman transport . This pattern generally increases nutrients for marine life in the region, and can have a profound effect in some regions where the bottom waters are particularly nutrient-rich. Offshore of river deltas , freshwater flows over the top of the denser seawater, which allows it to heat faster due to limited vertical mixing. Remotely sensed SST can be used to detect
15600-460: The water sinks. From the deep sea near Greenland, such water flows southwards between the continental landmasses on either side of the Atlantic. When it reaches the Antarctic, it is joined by further masses of cold, sinking water and flows eastwards. It then splits into two streams that move northwards into the Indian and Pacific Oceans. Here it is gradually warmed, becomes less dense, rises towards
15730-416: The water temperature and the large-scale environment. The stronger the temperature decrease with height, the taller the clouds get, and the greater the precipitation rate becomes. Ocean temperature of at least 26.5 °C (79.7 °F ) spanning through at minimum a 50- metre depth is one of the precursors needed to maintain a tropical cyclone (a type of mesocyclone ). These warm waters are needed to maintain
15860-405: The water temperature is 26.5 °C (79.7 °F), and this temperature requirement increases or decreases proportionally by 1 °C in the sea surface temperature for each 1 °C change at 500 hpa. Inside a cold cyclone , 500 hPa temperatures can fall as low as −30 °C (−22 °F), which can initiate convection even in the driest atmospheres. This also explains why moisture in
15990-426: The wave reaches a point where its deepest oscillations of the water contact the seabed , they begin to slow down. This pulls the crests closer together and increases the waves' height , which is called wave shoaling . When the ratio of the wave's height to the water depth increases above a certain limit, it " breaks ", toppling over in a mass of foaming water. This rushes in a sheet up the beach before retreating into
16120-483: The western Pacific Ocean. El Niño is defined by prolonged differences in Pacific Ocean surface temperatures when compared with the average value. The accepted definition is a warming or cooling of at least 0.5 °C (0.9 °F) averaged over the east-central tropical Pacific Ocean. Typically, this anomaly happens at irregular intervals of 2–7 years and lasts nine months to two years. The average period length
16250-730: The western Pacific and rainfall in the normally dry eastern Pacific. El Niño's warm rush of nutrient-poor tropical water, heated by its eastward passage in the Equatorial Current, replaces the cold, nutrient-rich surface water of the Humboldt Current . When El Niño conditions last for many months, extensive ocean warming and the reduction in Easterly Trade winds limits upwelling of cold nutrient-rich deep water and its economic impact to local fishing for an international market can be serious. Among scientists, there
16380-445: The world ocean, so global climate modelling makes use of ocean circulation models as well as models of other major components such as the atmosphere , land surfaces, aerosols and sea ice. Ocean models make use of a branch of physics, geophysical fluid dynamics , that describes the large-scale flow of fluids such as seawater. Surface currents only affect the top few hundred metres of the sea, but there are also large-scale flows in
16510-459: Was manually drawn from the sea surface. The first automated technique for determining SST was accomplished by measuring the temperature of water in the intake port of large ships, which was underway by 1963. These observations have a warm bias of around 0.6 °C (1 °F) due to the heat of the engine room. Fixed weather buoys measure the water temperature at a depth of 3 metres (9.8 ft). Measurements of SST have had inconsistencies over
16640-407: Was not blocked by the early Earth's atmosphere. Marine habitats can be divided horizontally into coastal and open ocean habitats. Coastal habitats extend from the shoreline to the edge of the continental shelf . Most marine life is found in coastal habitats, even though the shelf area occupies only 7 percent of the total ocean area. Open ocean habitats are found in the deep ocean beyond the edge of
16770-475: Was the result of an undocumented change in procedure. The samples were taken near the engine intake because it was too dangerous to use lights to take measurements over the side of the ship at night. Many different drifting buoys exist around the world that vary in design, and the location of reliable temperature sensors varies. These measurements are beamed to satellites for automated and immediate data distribution. A large network of coastal buoys in U.S. waters
16900-483: Was −77 °C (−132 °F). One example of a tropical cyclone maintaining itself over cooler waters was Epsilon late in the 2005 Atlantic hurricane season . [REDACTED] This article incorporates public domain material from websites or documents of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration . Sea A sea is a large body of salt water . There are particular seas and
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