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37-554: Behind Puncak Jaya (Carstensz Pyramid) at 4,884 m (16,024 ft), it is either the second or third highest mountain on the island of New Guinea and the Australasian continent. As such it appears on some Seven Second Summits lists, although SRTM -data support that Puncak Mandala (Juliana Peak) in the Jayawijaya (Orange) Range is higher with 4,760 m (15,617 ft). The Dani living near lake Habbema call

74-624: A biogeographical sense, Puncak Jaya can be considered the highest peak in all of Oceania , with its elevation exceeding those of the highest peaks in the nearby nations of Papua New Guinea ( Mount Wilhelm ), New Zealand ( Aoraki / Mount Cook ) and Australia ( Mount Kosciuszko ). Puncak Jaya is therefore often listed as one of the Seven Summits . However, since Puncak Jaya is in Western New Guinea , an area administered by Indonesia and therefore geopolitically part of Southeast Asia ,

111-585: A travelogue about it (to the snowy mountains of New Guinea). On May 18, 1914, Pulle was appointed a professor of botany and plant geography at the University of Utrecht and director of the Botanical Museum and Herbarium there, he focused his research on the identification and description of the plants in Suriname and the former Dutch East Indies . In 1920 he went back to Suriname to specialize in

148-402: Is little or no ability to get rescued via helicopter. Anyone injured must evacuate by foot over very difficult and slippery terrain. The descent from the peak's base camp can take three to four days. Anecdotally, it appears most injuries occur during the descent due to a combination of exhaustion and difficulty controlling hiking speed on the wet and slippery terrain. An additional complication

185-472: Is possible through various adventure tourism agencies. Despite being among the lowest of the Seven Summits, Puncak Jaya is considered to be a technically difficult climb, requiring extensive planning, acclimatisation, mountaineering skills, and support services, due to its remoteness and sheer limestone faces. Located in an isolated area of central Papua, there are no nearby facilities, and climbers have

222-409: Is relatively common work strikes by the climbing porters that accompany most expeditions, occasionally halting their work to demand (and usually receive) higher pay before agreeing to continue. The one-day summit bid is technically challenging for those with little rock climbing experience, and it can be quite cold with temperatures at or below freezing near the summit. Patches of snow sometimes appear on

259-722: The Amungkal language, Carstensz Toppen and Gunung Soekarno . It is also the highest point between the Himalayas and the Andes . The name of the mountain in the indigenous Amungme peoples' language is Nemangkawi Ninggok meaning Peak of the White Arrow. The name Puncak Jaya is Indonesian for 'Glorious Peak'. It is also known as the Carstensz Pyramid, Mount Jayawijaya, or Mount Carstensz. The highlands surrounding

296-561: The Saramacca expedition to Suriname and this study also determined the content of his thesis: " An enumeration of the vascular plants known from Surinam, together with their distribution and synonymy ", which he got in 1906 a PhD doctorate in zoology and botany. That same year he made a second study trip to Buitenzorg , Java , Indonesia. He made part of the Third South New Guinea expedition in 1912 and 1913 and also wrote

333-678: The Utrecht University , in 1899 he took his bachelor's degree. He attended lectures of the plant physiologist F. A. F. C. Went and decided to continue his studies in zoology and botany. In 1900, Pulle was appointed as assistant at the botanical laboratory and herbarium, in 1904 he was appointed teacher of natural history at the Higher secondary school in Utrecht. In 1906 Pulle made lectures in botany and plant systematics and since 1908 also in plant geography, he took part (in 1902 and 1903) of

370-669: The equator . It appeared on maps of the time as Sneebergh. The snowfield of Puncak Trikora , 170 km (106 mi) east of here, was reached as early as 1909 by a Dutch explorer, Hendrik Albert Lorentz with six of his Dayak Kenyah porters recruited from the Apo Kayan in Borneo . The predecessor of the Lorentz National Park , which encompasses the Carstensz Range, was established in 1919 following

407-494: The Austrian mountaineer Heinrich Harrer , New Zealand mountaineer Philip Temple , Australian rock climber Russell Kippax, and Dutch patrol officer Albertus (Bert) Huizenga. Temple had previously led an expedition into the area and pioneered the access route to the mountains. When Indonesia took control of the province in 1963, the peak was renamed Poentja' Soekarno (Simplified Indonesian : Puncak Sukarno) or Sukarno Peak, after

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444-605: The Indonesian flag in that country, and be ready for mobilization at any time. At the beginning of the 20th century all the highest mountains in New Guinea, including Puncak Jaya (Carstensz Pyramid), Puncak Mandala (Juliana Peak), Ngga Pilimsit (Idenburg), and Puncak Trikora (Wilhelmina Peak), were covered by glaciers. The first expeditions to the Maoke Mountains documented a strong recent retreat of all glaciers in

481-502: The area. The ice cap of Puncak Trikora melted between 1936 and 1962. In 1909 the ice cap still reached as low as 4,400 m (14,436 ft). Puncak Trikora is a high point on the central range (Sudirman (Nassau) Range), which was created in the late Miocene Melanesian orogeny , caused by an oblique collision between the Australian and Pacific plates and is made of middle Miocene limestones . The navigable Noord River made

518-439: The bare Carstensz Pyramid. Because of extensive snow melt, Ngga Pulu has become a 4,862 m (15,951 ft) subsidiary peak, but it has been estimated that in 1936 (when glaciers still covered 13 km (5.0 sq mi) of the mountain; see map) Ngga Pulu was indeed the highest summit, reaching over 4,900 m (16,100 ft). The now-highest Carstensz Pyramid summit was not climbed until 1962, by an expedition led by

555-489: The different tasks in a time-effective way. Herderschee, Hubrecht, and Versteeg formed the summit team, which reached the Wilhelminatop on 21 February 1913. The 1920-1922 Central New Guinea Expedition had as its goal to reach the mountain from the north coast over a route partially explored in a 1914 military expedition. On February 7, 1920, the first exploration, under the leadership of A.J.A. van Overeem started at

592-598: The first expedition established Camp Alkmaar near where the Noord River, since 1910 known as the Lorentz River , became unnavigable ( 4°40′S 138°42′E  /  4.667°S 138.700°E  / -4.667; 138.700 ), but was unsuccessful in penetrating the highest mountain range. The Second South New Guinea Expedition also used Camp Alkmaar, from where it left on October 9, 1909. A group of nine, including Lorentz and Jan Willem van Nouhuys, were

629-471: The first to reach the eternal snow of New Guinea at a height of 4,460 m (14,633 ft) on November 8, 1909. From the ridge, they observed a large lake to the north, which Lorentz named Lake Habbema ( 4°08′S 138°40′E  /  4.133°S 138.667°E  / -4.133; 138.667 ), after a member of the expedition. No attempt was made to reach the Wilhelmina summit. The return trip

666-564: The flora of this country, and in 1932 published the first part of his standard Flora of Suriname. Pulle was acting director of the Hortus, but, from 1920 to 1949, and the first director of the Cantonspark in Baarn . In 1938 he published the textbook " Compendium of terminology, nomenclature and systematics of seed plants ". He was retired in 1948 but remained active almost until his death. Pulle

703-415: The glaciers are disappearing at a rate of seven metres (23 ft) thickness per year and in 2018 they were predicted to vanish in the 2020s. Puncak Jaya is one of the more demanding climbs in one version of the Seven Summits , despite having the lowest elevation. It is held to have the highest technical rating, though not the greatest physical demands of that list's ascents. The standard route to climb

740-596: The island of New Guinea , with an elevation of 4,884 m (16,024 ft), is the highest mountain peak of an island on Earth, and the highest peak in Indonesia. The mountain is located in the Sudirman Range of the highlands of Mimika Regency , Central Papua , Indonesia. Puncak Jaya is ranked 5th in the world by topographic isolation . When regarding New Guinea as part of the Australian continent in

777-452: The local villages far down from the peak. It is then typically a five-day hike via the Jungle route to the base camp through very dense rainforest and with regular rainfall, making the approach probably the "most miserable" of the Seven Summits. Rain during most days of the hike inbound and out are not uncommon. Unlike the other Seven Summits, if one sustains an injury on the inbound hike, there

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814-753: The mountain Ettiakup . Around 1905 the mountain was named after the Dutch Queen Wilhelmina . When Indonesia obtained control of West New Guinea in 1963 it changed the name of the mountain to Puncak Trikora, after the Trikora ( Tri Komando Rakyat , "People’s Triple Command") speech by Sukarno given in December 1961 at a mass meeting in Yogyakarta . The three commands were: to defeat the formation of an independent state of West Papua , raise

851-519: The mountain more accessible than the other snow-covered peaks of Dutch New Guinea and the Dutch organized a series of scientific expeditions in the early 20th century to reach the equatorial eternal snow and climb the mountain. The leader of the first two expeditions was the diplomat and amateur biologist H.A. Lorentz . Each expedition was accompanied by soldiers, porters, and Dayaks , who were employed for their expertise with boat journeys. In July 1907,

888-834: The mouth of the Mamberamo and followed the Idenburg River . In October, they had climbed across the Doorman Mtns and reached the upper Swart Valley (now Toli Valley). Here they made first contact with the Lani people (a.k.a. the Western Dani people ), an agricultural people with whom they stayed for six weeks. Running out of time and food provisions, this expedition returned without climbing Wilhelmina. A follow-up expedition starting in June 1921 and led by J.H.G. Kremer, who

925-436: The option to take a helicopter to the base camp and reach the summit within three to four days, or spend an additional four to five days to trek to base camp from the nearest town, Sugapa. In 2016, Erik Airlangga died of hypothermia while attempting the peak after getting caught in extreme weather. In 2017, Ahmad Hadi died of hypoxemia while climbing the peak. In the 2024 climbing season, two climbers died while attempting

962-588: The peak can also be considered the 8th highest mountain in this region, after Hkakabo Razi and six others in Kachin State , Myanmar. The massive, open cut Grasberg gold and copper mine, the world's second-largest gold mine , is four kilometres ( 2 + 1 ⁄ 2 miles) west of Puncak Jaya. Other summits are East Carstensz Peak (4,808 m [15,774 ft]), Sumantri (4,870 m [15,980 ft]) and Ngga Pulu (4,863 m [15,955 ft]). Other names include Nemangkawi in

999-411: The peak from its base camp is up the north face and along the summit ridge, which is all hard rock surface. Despite the large mine , the area is highly inaccessible to hikers and the general public. The standard route to access base camp as of 2013 is to fly into the nearest major town with an airport, Timika , and then take a small aircraft over the mountain range and onto an unimproved runway at one of

1036-478: The peak were inhabited before European contact, and the peak is known as Nemangkawi in Amungkal . Puncak Jaya was named "Carstensz Pyramid" after Dutch explorer Jan Carstenszoon , who was the first European to sight the glaciers on the peak of the mountain on a rare clear day in 1623. The sighting went unverified for over two centuries, and Carstensz was ridiculed in Europe when he said he had seen snow near

1073-477: The recently vanished Meren Glacier in the Meren Valley ( meren is Dutch for "lakes"). Being equatorial, there is little variation in the mean temperature during the year (around 0.5 °C [0.90 °F]) and the glaciers fluctuate on a seasonal basis only slightly. However, analysis of the extent of these rare equatorial glaciers from historical records show significant retreat since the 1850s, around

1110-575: The report of this expedition. Puncak Jaya is the highest point on the Central Range , which was created in the late Miocene Melanesian orogeny , caused by an oblique collision between the Australian and Pacific plates, and is made of middle Miocene limestones . While Puncak Jaya's peak is free of ice, there are several glaciers on its slopes, including the Carstensz Glacier , West Northwall Firn , East Northwall Firn and

1147-545: The route up or on the ropes of the Tyrolean traverse just below the summit. In 1936, the Dutch Carstensz expedition , unable to establish definitively which of the three summits was the highest, attempted to climb each. Anton Colijn , Jean Jacques Dozy , and Frits Wissel reached both the glacier-covered East Carstensz and Ngga Pulu summits on December 5, but, due to bad weather, failed in their attempts to climb

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1184-447: The soils, flora, and fauna of the region that lay above 2,300 metres. Other expedition members were the zoologist Gerard Martinus Versteeg , the botanist August Adriaan Pulle , the geologist Paul François Hubrecht , and J.B. Sitanala , an Indonesian GP . Herderschee also took over the role of ethnographer . Including soldiers, porters, and Dayaks, the baggage train had 241 members. They were divided up into several groups to carry out

1221-592: The summit. The first died of a suspected heart attack on 29 September. The second climber, Chinese mountaineer Dong Fei died of a fall while on the descent. August Adriaan Pulle August Adrian Pulle ( Arnhem , January 10, 1878 - Utrecht , February 28, 1955) was a Dutch professor and botanist . He made important contributions to knowledge of the Flora of Suriname and the island of New Guinea . Pulle attended high school in Arnhem and studied pharmacy at

1258-420: The then- President of Indonesia Sukarno ; later this was changed to Puncak Jaya due to the subsequent de-Sukarnoization . Puncak means peak or mountain and Jaya means 'victory', 'victorious', or 'glorious'. The name Carstensz Pyramid is still used among mountaineers . Access to the peak requires a government permit. The mountain was closed to tourists and climbers between 1995 and 2005. As of 2006, access

1295-832: The time of the Little Ice Age Maximum which primarily affected the Northern Hemisphere, indicating a regional warming of around 0.6 °C (1.1 °F) per century between 1850 and 1972. The glacier on Puncak Trikora in the Maoke Mountains disappeared completely some time between 1939 and 1962. Since the 1970s, evidence from satellite imagery indicates the Puncak Jaya glaciers have been retreating rapidly. The Meren Glacier melted away sometime between 1994 and 2000. An expedition led by paleoclimatologist Lonnie Thompson in 2010 found that

1332-573: Was a surveyor the previous year, retraced the route, and via the upper Baliem Valley and Lake Habbema reached the summit on 4 December 1921. Among the ascendants was Paul Hubrecht, who had been on the top in 1913 and noticed that the ice cap had retreated considerably since 8 years before. Puncak Jaya Puncak Jaya ( Indonesian: [ˈpuntʃak ˈdʒaja] ; literally "Glorious Peak", Amungme : Nemangkawi Ninggok ) or Carstensz Pyramid ( / ˈ k ɑːr s t ən s / , Indonesian : Piramida Carstensz , Dutch : Carstenszpiramide ) on

1369-583: Was severe; with the loss of four expedition members, the explorers finally returned to Camp Alkmaar in mid-December. The summit was first reached in 1913 during the Third South New Guinea Expedition , which lasted from September 1912 to April 1913 and followed the same route. It was led by Alphons Franssen Herderschee, an officer of the Royal Netherlands East Indies Army , and it aimed to research

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