Misplaced Pages

#162837

60-430: An old fisherman village, Tamarin has developed into a residential area and a moderated holiday resort. Tamarin is especially popular with surfers . The village is surrounded by hills and is very picturesque. It is located next to Black River, another fisherman's village on the west coast of the island. Tamarin has benefited from continuous development in recent years including a new commercial and leisure area as well as

120-594: A balsilla caballero , or sitting stubbornly cutting the waves of the sea, which is rough where they fish, they looked like the Tritons, or Neptunes, who paint upon the water. In Polynesian culture , surfing was an important activity. Modern surfing as we know it today is thought to have originated in Hawaii . The history of surfing dates to c.  AD 400 in Polynesia, where Polynesians began to make their way to

180-535: A "flat spell", when no waves are available. Completely artificial wave pools aim to solve that problem by controlling all the elements that go into creating perfect surf, however there are only a handful of wave pools that can simulate good surfing waves, owing primarily to construction and operation costs and potential liability. Most wave pools generate waves that are too small and lack the power necessary to surf. The Seagaia Ocean Dome , located in Miyazaki, Japan,

240-403: A book whose photographs serve as a historical artifact of 1930s surf culture, primarily featuring images taken before World War II . Through his work in surf photography, Doc Ball played a pivotal role in documenting and popularizing California’s early surf scene, leaving a lasting legacy in surf photography. Mary Ann Hawkins, inspired by Duke Kahanamoku's surfing during the late 1920s, developed

300-600: A break from their boarding school, St. Matthew's Hall in San Mateo , and came to cool off in Santa Cruz, California . There, David Kawānanakoa , Edward Keliʻiahonui and Jonah Kūhiō Kalanianaʻole surfed the mouth of the San Lorenzo River on custom-shaped redwood boards, according to surf historians Kim Stoner and Geoff Dunn. In 1890, the pioneer in agricultural education John Wrightson reputedly became

360-665: A distinctive look that represented the local surf lifestyle. Ball’s work began to gain attention, and in the fall of 1937, The Los Angeles Times published two of his photographs alongside Andy Hamilton's article "Surfboards, Ahoy!" This piece showcased surfers at Bluff Cove who were members of the Palos Verdes Surfing Club, including well-known surfers Tulie Clark, E. Oshiek, and Jim Reynolds. Ball’s photography continued to attract wide recognition. In February 1938, his photo of Palos Verdes Surfing Club member Kay Murray diving off his board at Hermosa Beach appeared on

420-473: A large company of naked natives of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf-bathing." References to surf riding on planks and single canoe hulls are also verified for pre-contact Samoa , where surfing was called fa'ase'e or se'egalu (see Augustin Krämer, The Samoa Islands ), and Tonga , far pre-dating the practice of surfing by Hawaiians and eastern Polynesians by over

480-437: A layer of water against a smooth structure mimicking the shape of a breaking wave. Because of the velocity of the rushing water, the wave and the surfer can remain stationary while the water rushes by under the surfboard. Artificial waves of this kind provide the opportunity to try surfing and learn its basics in a moderately small and controlled environment near or far from locations with natural surf. Standup surfing begins when

540-477: A lifelong passion for surfing. In 1935, her family relocated to Santa Monica , providing her with opportunities to further immerse herself in surfing and paddleboarding. On September 12, 1936, Hawkins achieved a historic milestone by winning California’s first women’s paddleboard race at the Santa Monica Breakwater. She continued to dominate the sport, winning numerous competitions, including

600-411: A more turbulent part of the wave (often completely submerged by whitewater). In contrast, surfers who instead ride a hydrofoil feel substantially less drag and may ride unbroken waves in the open ocean. Three major subdivisions within stand-up surfing are stand-up paddling , long boarding and short boarding with several major differences including the board design and length, the riding style and

660-483: A new generation of women surfers. In January 1939, Hawkins was appointed head of the women’s auxiliary group of the Santa Monica Paddle Club and rose to vice president by January 1940. Her surfing peers frequently lauded her achievements, with "Whitey" Harrison describing her as "the best tandem rider." Throughout her career, Hawkins exemplified grace and athleticism, leaving an indelible mark on

SECTION 10

#1732776506163

720-458: A new primary school. The area was known as Santosha Bay (you'll still find the word 'Santosha' scribbled on a few buildings in faded paint) and offered wave hunters some of the best surfing on the planet. In fact, before the bay earned the name Santosha, locals refused to give the beach a moniker because they didn't want outsiders to discover their cache of surfable seas! Tamarin Bay was discovered by

780-845: A student at the University of Redlands , John Heath Doc Ball received a Kodak Autographic camera from his father and this gift sparked his interest in surf photography, an interest he pursued during summers at his family’s home in Hermosa Beach. By 1929, Ball had graduated and decided to follow his father’s career path in dentistry. Despite this, Ball’s passion for photography and surfing remained strong, and it would continue to shape his life in significant ways. In August 1930, after completing his first year of dental school at USC, Ball traveled with his father to Honolulu for summer vacation. This trip further fueled Ball’s enthusiasm for surfing. A black-and-white surf photograph taken by Tom Blake

840-461: A surfing location, but also dissipate wave energy and shelter the coastline from erosion. Ships such as Seli 1 that have accidentally stranded on sandy bottoms, can create sandbanks that give rise to good waves. An artificial reef known as Chevron Reef was constructed in El Segundo, California in hopes of creating a new surfing area. However, the reef failed to produce any quality waves and

900-663: A thousand years. West Africans (e.g., Ghana , Ivory Coast , Liberia , Senegal ) and western Central Africans (e.g., Cameroon ) independently developed the skill of surfing. Amid the 1640s CE, Michael Hemmersam provided an account of surfing in the Gold Coast : “the parents ‘tie their children to boards and throw them into the water.’” In 1679 CE, Barbot provided an account of surfing among Elmina children in Ghana: “children at Elmina learned “to swim, on bits of boards, or small bundles of rushes, fasten’d under their stomachs, which

960-697: A waterproof camera that he had successfully created the previous month, Ball also captured the excitement of riding the “Mighty Ski Jump” at Bluff Cove in December 1940. In 1940, Ball photographed scenes from the Pacific Coast Surf Riding Championships at San Onofre . These images are unique as they feature cars parked on the beach, spectators, and surfers waiting for their turn to surf Moser, Patrick (2024). Waikīkī dreams: how California appropriated Hawaiian beach culture. Urbana: University of Illinois Press. Ball’s reputation led

1020-539: A wave as it travels since a wave reaching the end of a fetch behaves as if the wind died. During summer, heavy swells are generated when cyclones form in the tropics. Tropical cyclones form over warm seas, so their occurrence is influenced by El Niño and La Niña cycles. Their movements are unpredictable. Surf travel and some surf camps offer surfers access to remote, tropical locations, where tradewinds ensure offshore conditions. Since winter swells are generated by mid-latitude cyclones , their regularity coincides with

1080-467: A wave. A handplane is generally worn on a bodysurfer's leading hand. Handplanes have traditionally been made out of wood. To preserve the handplanes' lifetime, a number of manufacturers tend to prefer Paulownia or White Cedar . A number of handplane makers upcycle old broken surfboards to create handplanes out of foam with a fiberglass coating. Foam handplanes tend to have more buoyancy than ones made of wood or plastic. Plastic offers durability in

1140-493: A way to entice visitors to his own budding resort community south of Venice where he had heavily invested in real estate, he hired Freeth as a lifeguard and to give surfing exhibitions in front of the Hotel Redondo . Another native Hawaiian, Duke Kahanamoku , spread surfing to both the U.S. and Australia, riding the waves after displaying the swimming prowess that won him Olympic gold medals in 1912 and 1920. In 1926, as

1200-407: A wider audience and immortalised after the release of the classic surf documentary "Forgotten Island of Santosha" by Larry and Roger Yates in 1974. Tamarin has two world renowned surfing spots: ‘Dal’ on its left (south) and ‘Black Stone’ on the right (north) of the bay. Dolphins are often found close to Tamarin Bay. Both Spinners and Bottlenose dolphins are usually seen playing early in the morning in

1260-704: Is a good diversion to the spectators.” James Alexander provided an account of surfing in Accra , Ghana in 1834 CE: “From the beach, meanwhile, might be seen boys swimming into the sea, with light boards under their stomachs. They waited for a surf; and came rolling like a cloud on top of it. But I was told that sharks occasionally dart in behind the rocks and ‘yam’ them.” Thomas Hutchinson provided an account of surfing in southern Cameroon in 1861: “Fishermen rode small dugouts ‘no more than six feet in length, fourteen to sixteen inches in width, and from four to six inches in depth.’” In July 1885, three teenage Hawaiian princes took

SECTION 20

#1732776506163

1320-642: Is aided by advances in information technology. Mathematical modeling graphically depicts the size and direction of swells around the globe. Swell regularity varies across the globe and throughout the year. During winter, heavy swells are generated in the mid-latitudes, when the North and South polar fronts shift toward the Equator . The predominantly Westerly winds generate swells that advance Eastward, so waves tend to be largest on West coasts during winter months. However, an endless train of mid-latitude cyclones cause

1380-550: Is also located in Tamarin. 20°19′S 57°23′E  /  20.317°S 57.383°E  / -20.317; 57.383 Surfer Surfing is a surface water sport in which an individual, a surfer (or two in tandem surfing ), uses a board to ride on the forward section, or face, of a moving wave of water , which usually carries the surfer towards the shore. Waves suitable for surfing are primarily found on ocean shores, but can also be found as standing waves in

1440-531: Is connected to Quatre Bornes and Port Louis by a Highway which together with all the other Main Roads are under the responsibility of the Ministry of Public Infrastructure. Tamarin is near the terminus of the west line of Mauritius' former railway system. École maternelle et primaire Paul et Virginie, a French international school, is in Tamarin. The Telfair International Primary, a private co-educational school,

1500-411: Is the angle between the wave front and the horizontal projection of the point of break over time, which in a regular break is most easily represented by the line of white water left after the break. A break that closes out, or breaks all at once along its length, leaves white water parallel to the wave front, and has a peel angle of 0°. This is unsurfable as it would require infinite speed to progress along

1560-630: The 2020 Summer Olympics in Japan. The first gold medalists of the Tokyo 2020 surfing men and women's competitions were, respectively, the Brazilian Ítalo Ferreira and the American from Hawaii, Carissa Moore . About three to five thousand years ago, cultures in ancient Peru fished in kayak-like watercraft ( mochica ) made of reeds that the fishermen surfed back to shore. The Moche culture used

1620-656: The Hawaiian Islands from Tahiti and the Marquesas Islands . They brought many of their customs with them including playing in the surf on Paipo (belly/body) boards. It was in Hawaii that the art of standing and surfing upright on boards was invented. Various European explorers witnessed surfing in Polynesia . Surfing may have been observed by British explorers at Tahiti in 1767. Samuel Wallis and

1680-588: The caballito de totora (little horse of totora ), with archaeological evidence showing its use around 200 CE. An early description of the Inca surfing in Callao was documented by Jesuit missionary José de Acosta in his 1590 publication Historia natural y moral de las Indias , writing: It is true to see them go fishing in Callao de Lima, was for me a thing of great recreation, because there were many and each one in

1740-433: The floater (riding on top of the breaking curl of the wave), and off the lip (banking off crest of the breaking wave). A newer addition to surfing is the progression of the air, whereby a surfer propels off the wave entirely up into the air and then successfully lands the board back on the wave. Handboard A handplane or handboard is used by bodysurfers to enhance their speed, lift and control whilst riding

1800-498: The isobars to become undulated, redirecting swells at regular intervals toward the tropics. East coasts also receive heavy winter swells when low-pressure cells form in the sub-tropics, where slow moving highs inhibit their movement. These lows produce a shorter fetch than polar fronts, however, they can still generate heavy swells since their slower movement increases the duration of a particular wind direction. The variables of fetch and duration both influence how long wind acts over

1860-526: The French period and the tradition of its making is almost unchanged after nearly two centuries. Water is pumped directly from the nearby sea and allowed to evaporate in the basins. Salt is harvested a few days later. By 2012 cheap imports (mostly from India) had been allowed and the production became uneconomic except for niche high value fleur de sel . By 2017 the main salt pans have stopped functioning and are being developed for housing and amenities. Tamarin

Tamarin, Mauritius - Misplaced Pages Continue

1920-663: The San Clemente Chamber of Commerce to contact him in July 1939 to organize a similar event, which would take place in late August. By 1941, Ball’s personal life saw new developments: he married Evelyn, and they would soon have two sons, Norman and John Jr. In 1944, Ball’s photographs gained further prominence when they appeared in National Geographic , solidifying surfing’s place in American popular culture. In 1946, Ball self-published California Surfriders ,

1980-509: The bay before going back to the open sea. Various boat companies offer trips to watch and swim with dolphins in the mornings. Tamarin is very famous for their apartments and long service that they offer to tourists. Tamarin is the main salt pan in Mauritius. Its hot and dry environment provides ideal conditions for salt making. The pans cover an area of about 30 hectares and can be seen from the main coastal road. Salt production dates back to

2040-544: The best waves in the world. Surfers from around the world flock to breaks like Backdoor, Waimea Bay , and Pipeline . However, there are still many popular surf spots around the world: Teahupo'o , located off the coast of Tahiti ; Mavericks , California , United States; Cloudbreak, Tavarua Island, Fiji ; Superbank, Gold Coast, Australia. In 2016 surfing was added by the International Olympic Committee (IOC) as an Olympic sport to begin at

2100-469: The breaking formation of the wave. Waves are generally recognized by the surfaces over which they break. For example, there are beach breaks, reef breaks and point breaks. The most important influence on wave shape is the topography of the seabed directly behind and immediately beneath the breaking wave. Each break is different since each location's underwater topography is unique. At beach breaks, sandbanks change shape from week to week. Surf forecasting

2160-433: The breaking part (whitewash) of the wave, in the so-called 'pocket'. It is difficult for beginners to catch the wave at all. Surfers' skills are tested by their ability to control their board in difficult conditions, riding challenging waves, and executing maneuvers such as strong turns and cutbacks (turning board back to the breaking wave) and carving (a series of strong back-to-back maneuvers). More advanced skills include

2220-504: The cover of Saturday Night magazine, with additional images published in an article titled "Surf Slaloms." That same year, Ball’s work also appeared in Life magazine, helping to establish surfing as a defining element of California’s identity. Ball’s images documented iconic surfing scenes such as surfers gathered around a campfire, tired yet satisfied after a “Super Surf” in April 1939. Using

2280-662: The crew members of HMS  Dolphin were the first Britons to visit the island in June of that year. Another candidate is the botanist Joseph Banks who was part of the first voyage of James Cook on HMS  Endeavour , arriving on Tahiti on 10 April 1769. Lieutenant James King was the first person to write about the art of surfing on Hawaii, when he was completing the journals of Captain James Cook (upon Cook's death in 1779). In Herman Melville 's 1849 novel Mardi , based on his experiences in Polynesia earlier that decade,

2340-719: The eclectic interests of land developer Abbot Kinney (founder of Venice of America, now Venice, California) helped bring Freeth to California. Freeth had sought the help of the Hawaii Promotion Committee (HPC) in Honolulu to sponsor him on a trip to California to give surfing exhibitions. The HPC arranged through their contacts in Los Angeles to secure a contract for Freeth to perform at Venice of America in July, 1907. Later that year, land baron Henry E. Huntington brought surfing to Redondo Beach . Looking for

2400-441: The event of a dropped handplane or hitting rocks on entry/exit of a reef break. Some companies are now making handplanes from recycled ocean plastics . Bodysurfers would use any item with a flat surface, such as fast food trays, clipboards, or flip flops, to aid their ride. The first modern handboard, The Hand Surfa hardboard, was produced by an Australian company in the 1960s. In the 1990s, many new handboard manufacturers entered

2460-499: The face fast enough to keep up with the break. A break which advances along the wave face more slowly will leave a line of new white water at an angle to the line of the wave face. Where: In most cases a peel angle less than 25° is too fast to surf. The type of break depends on shoaling rate. Breaking waves can be classified as four basic types: spilling (ξ b <0.4), plunging (0.4<ξ b <2), collapsing (ξ b >2) and surging (ξ b >2), and which type occurs depends on

Tamarin, Mauritius - Misplaced Pages Continue

2520-414: The first British surfer when instructed by two Hawaiian students at his college. George Freeth (1883–1919), of English and Native Hawaiian descent, is generally credited as the person who had done more than anyone else to renew interest in surfing at Waikiki in the early twentieth century after the sport had declined in popularity in Hawaii during the latter half of the nineteenth century. In 1907,

2580-409: The history of women’s surfing and paddleboarding. In 1975, a professional tour started. That year Margo Oberg became the first female professional surfer. Swell is generated when the wind blows consistently over a large space of open water, called the wind's fetch . The size of a swell is determined by the strength of the wind, and the length of its fetch and duration. Because of these factors,

2640-650: The kind of wave that is ridden. In tow-in surfing (most often, but not exclusively, associated with big wave surfing ), a motorized water vehicle such as a personal watercraft , tows the surfer into the wave front, helping the surfer match a large wave's speed, which is generally a higher speed than a self-propelled surfer can produce. Surfing-related sports such as paddle boarding and sea kayaking that are self-propelled by hand paddles do not require waves, and other derivative sports such as kite surfing and windsurfing rely primarily on wind for power, yet all of these platforms may also be used to ride waves. Recently with

2700-505: The modern-day definition of surfing most often refers to a surfer riding a wave standing on a surfboard ; this is also referred to as stand-up surfing. Another prominent form of surfing is body boarding , where a surfer rides the wave on a bodyboard, either lying on their belly, drop knee (one foot and one knee on the board), or sometimes even standing up on a body board. Other types of surfing include knee boarding, surf matting (riding inflatable mats) and using foils. Body surfing , in which

2760-431: The narrator describes the "Rare Sport at Ohonoo" (title of chap. 90): “For this sport, a surf-board is indispensable: some five feet in length; the width of a man's body; convex on both sides; highly polished; and rounded at the ends. It is held in high estimation; invariably oiled after use; and hung up conspicuously in the dwelling of the owner.” When Mark Twain visited Hawaii in 1866 he wrote, "In one place, we came upon

2820-490: The open ocean, in lakes , in rivers in the form of a tidal bore , or wave pools . The term surfing refers to a person riding a wave using a board, regardless of the stance. There are several types of boards. The Moche of Peru would often surf on reed craft, while the native peoples of the Pacific surfed waves on alaia , paipo, and other such water craft. Ancient cultures often surfed on their belly and knees, while

2880-469: The passage of these lows. Swells arrive in pulses, each lasting for a couple of days, with a few days between each swell. The availability of free model data from the NOAA has allowed the creation of several surf forecasting websites. Tube shape is defined by length to width ratio. A perfectly cylindrical vortex has a ratio of 1:1. Other forms include: Peel or peeling off as a descriptive term for

2940-404: The quality of a break has been defined as "a fast, clean, evenly falling curl line, perfect for surfing, and usually found at pointbreaks." Tube speed is the rate of advance of the break along the length of the wave, and is the speed at which the surfer must move along the wave to keep up with the advance of the tube. Tube speed can be described using the peel angle and wave celerity. Peel angle

3000-431: The seabed before the break. The breaker type index and Iribarren number allow classification of breaker type as a function of wave steepness and seabed slope. The value of good surf in attracting surf tourism has prompted the construction of artificial reefs and sand bars. Artificial surfing reefs can be built with durable sandbags or concrete, and resemble a submerged breakwater. These artificial reefs not only provide

3060-404: The slope of the bottom. Waves suitable for surfing break as spilling or plunging types, and when they also have a suitable peel angle, their value for surfing is enhanced. Other factors such as wave height and period, and wind strength and direction can also influence steepness and intensity of the break, but the major influence on the type and shape of breaking waves is determined by the slope of

SECTION 50

#1732776506163

3120-454: The surf tends to be larger and more prevalent on coastlines exposed to large expanses of ocean traversed by intense low pressure systems . Local wind conditions affect wave quality since the surface of a wave can become choppy in blustery conditions. Ideal conditions include a light to moderate "offshore" wind, because it blows into the front of the wave, making it a "barrel" or "tube" wave. Waves are left-handed and right-handed depending upon

3180-401: The surfer paddles toward shore in an attempt to match the speed of the wave (the same applies whether the surfer is standup paddling, bodysurfing, boogie-boarding or using some other type of watercraft, such as a waveski or kayak). Once the wave begins to carry the surfer forward, the surfer stands up and proceeds to ride the wave. The basic idea is to position the surfboard so it is just ahead of

3240-547: The use of V-drive boats, Wakesurfing , in which one surfs on the wake of a boat, has emerged. As of 2023, the Guinness Book of World Records recognized a 26.2 m (86 ft) wave ride by Sebastian Steudtner at Nazaré , Portugal as the largest wave ever surfed. During the winter season in the northern hemisphere, the North Shore of Oahu , the third-largest island of Hawaii , is known for having some of

3300-433: The wave is caught and ridden using the surfer's own body rather than a board, is very common and is considered by some surfers to be the purest form of surfing. The closest form of body surfing using a board is a handboard which normally has one strap over it to fit on one hand. Surfers who body board, body surf, or handboard feel more drag as they move through the water than stand up surfers do. This holds body surfers into

3360-489: The women’s half-mile paddleboard race and the Venice Breakwater event in 1938, both held on the same day.   Hawkins was also a pioneer in tandem surfing, a discipline that highlights synchronized surfing between two individuals on a single board. She gained further recognition in 1939 when she performed exhibition paddleboarding and tandem surfing displays at various Southern California beaches, inspiring

3420-449: Was an example of a surfable wave pool. Able to generate waves with up to 3 m (10 ft) faces, the specialized pump held water in 20 vertical tanks positioned along the back edge of the pool. This allowed the waves to be directed as they approach the artificial sea floor. Lefts, Rights, and A-frames could be directed from this pump design providing for rippable surf and barrel rides. The Ocean Dome cost about $ 2 billion to build and

3480-483: Was expensive to maintain. The Ocean Dome was closed in 2007. In England, construction is nearing completion on the Wave, situated near Bristol , which will enable people unable to get to the coast to enjoy the waves in a controlled environment, set in the heart of nature. There are two main types of artificial waves that exist today. One being artificial or stationary waves which simulate a moving, breaking wave by pumping

3540-471: Was featured in the Los Angeles Times in 1931, leaving a lasting impact on Ball, and inspiring him to deepen his involvement in surf photography. Between 1931 and 1941, Ball documented California’s surf culture, capturing approximately 900 images of surfers and beach scenes. In 1934, Ball photographed unique surf gear at Bluff Cove. These pictures included cowboy hats and hand paddles, providing

3600-540: Was removed in 2008. In Kovalam , South West India, an artificial reef has successfully provided the local community with a quality lefthander, stabilized coastal soil erosion, and provided good habitat for marine life . ASR Ltd., a New Zealand-based company, constructed the Kovalam reef and is working on another reef in Boscombe, England. Even with artificial reefs in place, a tourist's vacation time may coincide with

#162837