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117-531: Most of the reserve is made up of several Scandinavian Mountains , the main ones being Artfjället, Norra Storfjället, Ammarfjället and Björkfjället. Most of the landscapes of the Swedish mountains are represented. This ranges from the pronounced alpine character of Norra Storfjället , which includes the highlight of the reserve, the Norra Sytertoppen (1,768 m), to the plateau and plains near the base of

234-559: A vulnerable species in Sweden), which is significant in view of the extent of the territories of these animals. The brown bear ( Ursus arctos , vulnerable species in Sweden) was once abundant in the Vindel River Valley, and although they are still present in the reserve, their numbers have decreased significantly. The Eurasian wolf ( Canis lupus lupus , critically endangered in Sweden) seems to have completely disappeared from

351-455: A church, Viktoriakyrkan, built in 1938 when there was no road leading to it: wood construction was cut on site. A road was built in the mid-1970s to join the church. Several small properties are located in the vicinity of the church, with small areas of cultivated land. These areas are now abandoned or used seasonally for hunting or fishing. Many paths now used as hiking trails were originally communication paths for mountain dwellers. For example,

468-462: A depth of one or two meters, often spaced apart twenty or thirty meters from each other. They were covered with grass or leaves, and there were probably spikes at the bottom to kill the animal during its fall. Several complexes of this type traps are present in the reserve. Traps were most often made at the limit of birch forests, however a rare higher altitude trap has been found at Vindelkroken. Some traps were still used up 700–800 years ago, after which

585-519: A large number of places the Sami consider sacred, also called Sieidi . These sacred places can be spotted in Sami place names. The words Ailes , Pass , page , Saivo, or Akka , which appear in several place names are sacred words. For example, a wooden idol, now on display at the Nordic Museum, was found in a rock hole near Lake Överst-Juktan, near a river named Ailesjokk . The hole in question

702-399: A local river of the same name. Until 1912, the population of the village was about 40 inhabitants living in eight farms, but that changed when a railway station was built ( Inland Line ) around 1924. The village quickly grew and became known as an important centre for hydroelectric power and the timber industry. It later became a popular tourist spot as well. The heraldic shield (the weapon of

819-553: A mean annual air temperature (MAAT) of −1.5 °C (29.5 °F) will be found at wind exposed sites with little snow cover during winter. Higher up, widespread permafrost may be expected at altitudes with a MAAT of −3.5 °C (25.5 °F), continuous permafrost at altitudes with a MAAT of −6 °C (21 °F). Within the EU-sponsored project PACE (Permafrost and Climate in Europe), a 100 m (330 ft) deep borehole

936-455: A number of relatively rare or endangered species of lichens and lignicolous fungi . Birch forests are a characteristic feature of the subalpine Scandinavian Mountains. These are a subspecies of downy birch ( Betula pubescens ) often called crooked birch ( Betula pubescens subsp. Tortuosa) because of its shape. These forests start at the limit of conifers (between 500 and 600 m) and form the tree line at an altitude of about 800 m, though this

1053-656: A significant amount of rainfall. But the Norra Storfjället and mountains in its continuity to the north together with the Ammarfjället mountain range protect the eastern part of the reserve from the prevailing winds from west/southwest. This blocks the oceanic influence and creates a more continental climate. Thus, the Ammarnäs region, located in the rain shadow , receives less than 600 mm of precipitation per year, whereas Hemavan, not far away but located on

1170-500: A stone knife were discovered near Forsavan, south the Tärnasjön. Traces of stone age dwellings can be seen near lakes Biellojaure, Överuman and Stor-Laisan. All these traces and artifacts date back to at least 4,000 to 5,000 years ago. Reindeer pitfall systems have also been discovered in the mountains, in areas where reindeer used to roam during their annual migrations. This was most often set up as holes of about two by three meters, to

1287-572: A thin to thick crust transition zone (as are all passive margins). Alternative lines of research have stressed the role of climate in inducing erosion that induces an isostatic compensation ; fluvial and glacial erosion and incision during the Quaternary is thought to have contributed to the uplift of the mountain by forcing an isostatic response . The total amount of uplift produced by this mechanism could be as much as 500 m (1,600 ft). Other geoscientists have implied diapirism in

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1404-584: A total length of 170 km. Finally the Tärnaån River originates at Lake Tärnasjön before joining into the Ume River just outside the reserve. The Ume River itself is located outside the reserve, between the Artfjället mountain ranges and the rest of the reserve and unlike the rivers within the reserve, its waters have been regulated and used for hydroelectric power. The reserve has several lakes,

1521-428: A vast network of wetlands. Finally, going east, in the sections added during the extension of the reserve in 1988, the altitude gradually decreases to reach the plain. The climate of the reserve has important contrasts. The western part is strongly influenced by humid air from the nearby Atlantic Ocean . It brings more mild temperatures in winter, while maintaining freshness in summer. The nearby Atlantic also provides

1638-537: Is a locality and the seat of Storuman Municipality in Västerbotten County , province of Lapland , Sweden with 2,207 inhabitants in 2010. It is situated by the Ume River , at the southeastern end of Lake Storuman . It is believed that the first Swedish people who came to the area, were from Vilhelmina to the south and settled here around 1741. The place became known as 'Luspen', derived from

1755-711: Is a mountain range that runs through the Scandinavian Peninsula . The western sides of the mountains drop precipitously into the North Sea and Norwegian Sea , forming the fjords of Norway , whereas to the northeast they gradually curve towards Finland . To the north they form the border between Norway and Sweden , reaching 2,000 metres (6,600 ft) high at the Arctic Circle . The mountain range just touches northwesternmost Finland but are scarcely more than hills at their northernmost extension at

1872-578: Is a nesting site for many species of birds, due to its wide variety of habitats, but especially its many wetlands, including in particular those around Lake Tärnasjön and in the Marsivagge Valley. The Marsivagge Valley alone is considered a nesting site for about 120 different species. In these wetlands include several species of Anseriformes , such as the common scoter ( Melanitta nigra ), the Long-tailed Ducks ( Clangula hyemalis ),

1989-557: Is also implied from the erosion that the nappes of Caledonian rock once reached further east than they do today. The erosion has left remaining massifs of Caledonian rocks and windows of Precambrian rock. While there are some disagreements, geologists generally recognize four units among the nappes: an uppermost, an upper, a middle and a lower unit. The lower unit is made up Ediacaran ( Vendian ), Cambrian , Ordovician and Silurian -aged sedimentary rocks . Pieces of Precambrian shield rocks are in some places also incorporated into

2106-542: Is also the origin of the mountains of Scotland, Ireland, Greenland and Svalbard. The Caledonian orogeny is the era associated with the collision of Laurentia and Baltica plates peak between 420 and 400 MYA, with the disappearance of the Iapetus Ocean by subduction . During this event, crust fragments overlap, forming thrust sheets. Among these layers, one in particular, the Seve-Köli layer, consists largely of

2223-1279: Is called Den skandinaviske fjellkjede , Fjellet , Skandesfjellene , Kjølen ('the Keel') or Nordryggen ('the North Ridge', name coined in 2013). The names Kölen and Kjølen are often preferentially used for the northern part, where the mountains form a narrow range near the border region of Norway and Sweden. In South Norway, there is a broad scatter of mountain regions with individual names, such as Dovrefjell , Hardangervidda , Jotunheimen , and Rondane . The mountain chain's highest summits are mostly concentrated in an area of mean altitude of over 1,000 m (3,300 ft), ) between Stavanger and Trondheim in South Norway, with numerous peaks over 1,300 m (4,300 ft) and some peaks over 2,000 m (6,600 ft). Around Trondheim Fjord , peaks decrease in altitude to about 400–500 m (1,300–1,600 ft), rising again to heights in excess of 1,900 m (6,200 ft) further north in Swedish Lapland and nearby areas of Norway. The southern part of

2340-399: Is categorized into lower, middle and upper alpine levels. The lower alpine level is also called the willow level because of the presence of several species of willows, such as the downy willow ( Salix lapponum ) and gray willow ( Salix glauca ). These will often intermingle with dwarf birches ( Betula nana ), sometimes forming dense bushes These shrubs are usually located in the lower parts of

2457-481: Is dotted with glacial cirques usually separated from each other by pre-glacial paleosurfaces . Glacier erosion has been limited in these paleosurfaces which form usually plateaus between valleys. As such the paleosurfaces were subject of diverging and slow ice flow during the glaciations. In contrast valleys concentrated ice flow forming fast glaciers or ice streams . At some locations coalesced cirques form arêtes and pyramidal peaks . Glacial reshaping of valleys

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2574-492: Is expanding rapidly and competing with the arctic fox ( Vulpes lagopus ) even in the tundra. Several species of mammals are more characteristics of alpine tundra, such as reindeer ( Rangifer tarandus ). As in the rest of the country, reindeer are all domesticated and belong to Sami villages, but live in a state of semi-freedom. In total there were over 20,000 reindeer in the Vindelfjällen mountain range. Another feature of

2691-687: Is found outside of the glacial formations, and represents a karst topography. Besides the underground sinkholes and streams, the most remarkable feature of these karst formations are the caves, which are among the largest in Sweden. The Vindelfjällen nature reserve includes almost all natural environments of the Scandinavian Mountains. It is, according to the WWF classification, straddling terrestrial ecoregions of Scandinavian Birch Forest , Scandinavian plains , and Russian Taiga . In total,

2808-534: Is fully protected against the construction of dams and whose flow is currently unregulated. The Vindel River forms a large number of rapids upstream from Ammarnäs. There are several other major rivers in the reserve. The Tjulån River originates at the Tjulträsk lakes and joins the Vindel River in Ammarnäs. The Juktån River passes the great lake Överst Juktan and continues outside the reserve to Ume River for

2925-514: Is less well understood, perhaps related to the decrease in vegetation caused by their excessive consumption or the spread of epidemics among the population. Regardless, this phenomenon is extremely important for the entire ecosystem of the mountain. This is particularly the case for the most symbolic animal of the Reserve; the arctic fox. These foxes breed almost exclusively in years of lemming population explosion. There are only about 200 arctic fox in

3042-456: Is located in the municipalities of Sorsele and Storuman in the northwest of Västerbotten County and in the south of the historic province of Lapland , Sweden. It forms approximately a rectangle extended in a predominantly east-west axis. The western boundary is the Norwegian border , while its northern border is the border with Norrbotten County, located approximately along the crest of

3159-424: Is located north of the lake. It covers no less than 20 km and includes the remains of the southernmost palsas of Sweden. Another wetland of importance, though less extensive, is Marsivagge in Ammarfjället mountain range. Finally, many wetlands are scattered in areas of lower elevations in the east. Finally, water is found in the form of glaciers in areas where the altitude exceeds 1,600 m, or in other words, in

3276-500: Is more marked in the western part of the mountain chain where drowned glacier-shaped valleys constitute the fjords of Norway. In the eastern part of the mountain chain, glacial reshaping of valleys is weaker. Many mountain tops contain blockfields which escaped glacial erosion either by having been nunataks in the glacial periods or by being protected from erosion under cold-based glacier ice . Karst systems, with their characteristic caves and sinkholes , occur at various places in

3393-478: Is overwhelmingly aapa bogs , also called corded bogs, because of the form taken by these marshes. The main plants growing there are Sphagnum , sedges and willows , however there are also some peat dwarf birches, hare's-tail cottongrass ( Eriophorum vaginatum ), heather shrubs ( Calluna vulgaris ), bog blueberries ( Vaccinium uliginosum ) and cloudberries ( Rubus chamaemorus ) The alpine mainly consists mainly of moorlands and alpine meadows . For convenience, it

3510-416: Is quite variable depending on the locality. They thus constitute the dominant middle of the reserve. Different types of birch forests can be classified based on the nature of the undergrowth ; at Vindelfjällen, there are mainly so-called mossy birch forests and meadow birch forests . Lichen-rich forests rich, on the other hand, are rare in this area, but very common further north. The moss-rich forests are

3627-607: Is reasonable given that the Vindel River has its source in these mountains. As in other areas of the Lapland mountains, the reserve has a number of Sami names. However, unlike the mountains further North, here they live among places with numerous Swedish names. For example, the words fjäll ('mountain'), sjö/vatten ('lake'), å/älv ('river'), etc. are frequently seen. This is a result of early Swedish settlers translating Sami names into Swedish as well as these settlers naming previously unnamed geographic features. The reserve

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3744-400: Is the highest point of the reserve as well as Västerbotten County. Other notable peaks of the mountain range are Måskostjakke (1,690 m) and Södra Sytertoppen (1685 m). The mountain range is cut down the middle by the narrow, deep valley of Syterskalet/Viterskalet, which is one of the icons of the reserve and is sometimes compared to the famous Lapporten by its symmetrical profile. The rest of

3861-486: Is the influence of the Icelandic plume could have raised the crust. Another hypothesis suggests that isostasy related to glaciations may have occurred. Whatever the cause, the uprising allowed the ancient channel to rise to more than 2000m at times. While the Scandinavian Mountains gradually increase altitude, erosion can negate this slow growth. While this includes river erosion , the glacial erosion, especially during

3978-504: Is the moose ( Alces alces ), present in significant number in the coniferous and birch forests in the major valleys. Tärnaån River was one of the first sites where the Eurasian beaver ( Castor fiber ) was reintroduced in Sweden in 1924, after the total disappearance of the species in 1871. The major Swedish predators threatened in Sweden, are also well established in Vindelfjällen. In 2004 at least three families of Eurasian lynx ( Lynx lynx ,

4095-679: The förfjäll (literally 'fore-fell'). Generally the förfjäll do not surpass 1,000 m (3,300 ft) above sea level. As a geomorphic unit the förfjäll extends across Sweden as a 650 km (400 mi) long and 40-to-80 km (25-to-50 mi) broad belt from Dalarna in the south to Norrbotten in the north. While lower than the Scandinavian Mountains proper, the förfjäll 's pronounced relief , its large number of plateaux, and its coherent valley system distinguish it from so-called undulating hilly terrain (Swedish: bergkullsterräng ) and plains with residual hills (Swedish: bergkullslätt ) found further east. The climate of

4212-659: The Fennoscandian Ice Sheet grew out multiple times most likely resembled today's ice fields in Andean Patagonia . During the last glacial maximum (ca. 20 ka BP ) all the Scandinavian Mountains were covered by the Fennoscandian Ice Sheet, which extended well beyond the mountains into Denmark, Germany, Poland and the former USSR . As the ice margin started to recede 22–17 ka BP the ice sheet became increasingly concentrated in

4329-498: The First World War . The first proposal of a protection of the area occurred in 1930 when Kirjesålandet was proposed to become a national park, but did not occur. In the 1950s, hydroelectricity developments were building their reservoirs in the country (see also: energy in Sweden ), but already concerns were being raised against the environmental impact of these power plants. In particular, there were heated discussions about

4446-601: The North Cape ( Nordkapp ). The mountains are relatively high for a range so young and are very steep in places; Galdhøpiggen in South Norway is the highest peak in mainland Northern Europe , at 2,469 metres (8,100 ft); Kebnekaise is the highest peak on the Swedish side, at 2,104 m (6,903 ft), whereas the slope of Halti is the highest point in Finland, at 1,324 m (4,344 ft), although

4563-883: The Oligocene . The uplift of South Norway has elevated the westernmost extension of the sub-Cambrian peneplain which forms part of what is known as the Paleic surface in Norway. In South Norway, the Scandinavian Mountains had their main uplift phase later ( Neogene ) than in northern Scandinavia which had its main phase of uplift in the Paleogene . For example, the Hardangervidda uplifted from sea level to its present 1,200–1,100 m (3,900–3,600 ft) in Early Pliocene times. The various episodes of uplift of

4680-519: The Saltfjellet–Svartisen National Park (Norway) are also nearby. The Vindelfjällen reserve includes most types of Swedish landscapes; mountains, high plains to alpine peaks, passing through plateaus or rounded profile mountain ranges. At the heart of the alpine region of the reserve is the Norra Storfjället mountain range. This mountain range includes the highest peaks, including Norra Sytertoppen, which from its height of 1,768 m

4797-508: The asthenosphere as being the cause of uplift. One hypothesis states that the early uplift of the Scandinavian Mountains could be indebted to changes in the density of the lithosphere and asthenosphere caused by the Iceland plume when Greenland and Scandinavia rifted apart about 53 million years ago. Many slopes and valleys are straight because they follow tectonic fractures that are more prone to erosion. Another result of tectonics in

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4914-457: The Ammarnäs delta at its migration. There are also many species of shorebirds, such as the wood sandpiper ( Tringa glareola ), the common redshank ( Tringa totanus ), the dunlin ( Calidris alpina ), purple sandpiper ( Calidris maritima ), the common sandpiper ( Actitis hypoleucos ), the common snipe ( Gallinago gallinago ), the ruff ( Philomachus pugnax ) and the Whimbrel ( Numenius phaeopus ). On

5031-517: The Björkfjället mountain range. This rectangle is fragmented by two roads that are excluded from the reserve. To the west, the European route E12 , of which this section is called Blå vägen ('the blue route'), cuts the reserve into two parts, isolating the Artfjället mountain range from the rest of the reserve. To the east, Länsväg (equivalent of "county road") 363 penetrates deep into

5148-547: The Nordic countries is maritime along the coast of Norway, and much more continental in Sweden in the rain shadow of the Scandinavian Mountains. The combination of a northerly location and moisture from the North Atlantic Ocean has caused the formation of many ice fields and glaciers . In the mountains, the air temperature decreases with increasing altitude, and patches of mountain permafrost in regions with

5265-462: The Norra Storfjället mountain range and more locally in Ammarfjället. Glacier names include Murtserglaciären, Måskonåiveglaciären, Norra Syterglaciären, Tärnaglaciären, Östra and Västra Skrapetjakkeglaciären, and Östra Syterglaciären, all of which have been studied since the late nineteenth century. Vindelfjällen is part of the Scandinavian Mountains, reminiscent of the Caledonian belt. The latter

5382-473: The Reserve of Vindel-Laisfjällen (after the Vindel River and the Laisälven , its main tributary) would extend over 7,400 km of which 4,800 km in the county of Västerbotten and the remainder in the county of Norrbotten. In 1973, a working group composed of representatives of the counties and Naturvårdsverket was formed, but Norrbotten County did not join. Eventually, only the portion included in

5499-421: The Sami people changed their lifestyle and began to follow domesticated reindeer transhumance rather than trapping wild reindeer. Ten ancient Sami graves have been discovered in the reserve. They were often placed higher up, in order to have a view of the surrounding landscape. Two tombs are located well north of Lake Tärnasjön on a small hill overlooking the bogs. South of Lake Tärnasjön, there are also graves on

5616-512: The Sami, and hunting and fishing are still practiced. Finally, the mountains are widely used for scientific research, which is facilitated by the presence of an on-site research station . The word Vindel derives from the word vindill , which is similar to vända , the Swedish verb meaning to turn or change direction, probably in reference to the meandering nature of the Vindel river. In Swedish Vindelfjällen means 'the Vindel mountains', which

5733-520: The Scandinavian Mountains are Caledonian, which means they were put in place by the Caledonian orogeny . Caledonian rocks overlie rocks of the much older Svecokarelian and Sveconorwegian provinces . The Caledonian rocks actually form large nappes ( Swedish : skollor ) that have been thrust over the older rocks. Much of the Caledonian rocks have been eroded since they were put in place, meaning that they were once thicker and more contiguous. It

5850-464: The Scandinavian Mountains lack "alpine topography", and where present it does not relate to altitude. An example of this is the distribution of cirques in southern Norway that can be found both near sea level and at 2,000 m (6,600 ft). Most cirques are found between 1,000 and 1,500 m (3,300 and 4,900 ft). To the east, the Scandinavian Mountains proper bound with mountains that are lower and less dissected and are known in Swedish as

5967-504: The Scandinavian Mountains were similar in orientation and tilted land surfaces to the east while allowing rivers to incise the landscape. Some of the tilted surfaces constitute the Muddus plains landscape of northern Sweden . The progressive tilt contributed to create the parallel drainage pattern of northern Sweden. Uplift is thought to have been accommodated by coast-parallel normal faults and not by fault-less doming . Therefore,

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6084-406: The Scandinavian Mountains, and is therefore classified as critically endangered in Sweden. Vindelfjällen is one of the most important areas of all the mountains for this species, and it is actively protected. The Björkfjället mountain range is one of the best areas of Vindelfjällen for these small canines, but they are present in the Artfjället mountain range as well. The Vindelfjällen nature reserve

6201-460: The Scandinavian Mountains, but are more common in the northern parts. Present-day karst systems might have long histories dating back to the Pleistocene or even earlier. Much of the mountain range is mantled by deposits of glacial origin including till blankets, moraines , drumlins and glaciofluvial material in the form of outwash plains and eskers . Bare rock surfaces are more common in

6318-414: The Scandinavian Mountains. Recession of the ice margin led the ice sheet to be concentrated in two parts of the Scandinavian Mountains, one part in South Norway and another in northern Sweden and Norway. These two centres were for a time linked, so that the linkage constituted a major drainage barrier that formed various large ephemeral ice-dammed lakes . About 10 ka BP, the linkage had disappeared and so did

6435-481: The Scandinavian tundra lemming species is the Norway lemming ( Lemmus lemmus ). Its fame rests notably on its periodic population explosions . Indeed, every four years on average, the number of these rodents increases dramatically and will invade large areas before quickly dying off. Favorable weather conditions and good access to food are the most likely reasons for the sharp population increases. Their mass death

6552-678: The Vindelälven valley to Ammarnäs and thus creates a notch in the reserve. In total, the reserve has an area of 562,772 hectares (over 5,600 km), making it the largest nature reserve in Sweden and one of the largest protected areas in Europe. The reserve Vindelfjällen is bordered to the northeast by the Laisdalen Nature Reserve (Laisdalen fjällurskog) in the County of Norrbotten . The Pieljekaise National Park (Sweden) and

6669-651: The area ranging from the Artfjället mountain ranges to Lake Övre Ältsvattnet, which consists of the Rödingsfjäll layer, rich in limestone . In Ammarnäs and other places, a middle layer dominated by phyllite , can be seen, like a window through the Seve-Koli layer. The mountainous chain has been continuously eroded to form a peneplain . However, from about 60 Ma ( Cenozoic ), Scandinavian peneplane has undergone extensive tectonic uplift . Causes for this are not clear and several hypotheses have been proposed. One theory

6786-499: The border of the reserve and the county. All in all, it has an average altitude of 800–900 m with the highest peak within the reserve being Vuorektjåkkå (1,245 m). Intersecting the various mountain ranges are several valleys and lowlands. One of the main valleys of the reserve is the Vindelälven River Valley, although the entire section south of Ammarnäs is largely excluded from the reserve. The northern section of

6903-412: The changes is the abandonment of several kata used in the past during the transhumance between sites of overwintered and summer pastures sites. These rudimentary abandoned buildings were gradually taken over by nature and have become difficult to notice, however some have been restored to witness the traditional Sami life. Since the early eighteenth century, Swedes began to arrive in the area and settle in

7020-591: The common goldeneye ( Bucephala clangula ), the tufted duck ( Aythya fuligula ), the Greater Scaup ( Aythya marila ), mallards ( Anas platyrhynchos ), the Eurasian wigeon ( Anas penelope ), the red-breasted merganser ( Mergus serrator ), red-necked phalaropes ( Phalaropus lobatus ), and the common goosander ( Mergus merganser ). The lesser white-fronted goose ( Anser erythropus ), an endangered species, formerly nested around Lake Tärnasjön but have not been seen there for several years; although it still regularly uses

7137-488: The common labelling of the southern Scandinavian Mountains and the northern Scandinavian Mountains as two domes is misleading. There are divided opinions on the relation between the coastal plains of Norway, the strandflat , and the uplift of the mountains. Unlike orogenic mountains , there is no widely accepted geophysical model to explain elevated passive continental margins such as the Scandinavian Mountains. Various mechanisms of uplift have, however, been proposed over

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7254-514: The county of Västerbotten was protected under the name Vindelfjällen on February 25, 1974 and was confirmed by the government in July 1975. The reserve protection plan was finally published in 1978. The famous hiking trail Kungsleden then stretched between Hemavan and Ammarnäs in connection with the creation of the reserve. Scandinavian Mountains The Scandinavian Mountains or the Scandes

7371-460: The developments on the Ume River and Vindel River. This led in 1961 an agreement called the "peace of Sarek" ( Sarek freden i ) that prevented development on some rivers of the Vindelälven and in exchange gave freedom to develop the other rivers, including the Ume River. The idea also grew to protect any section of the mountainous Vindelälven watershed Under this project, the reserve, called

7488-526: The end of the last ice age , about 9000 years ago. This may have been the ancestors of the Sami , a nomadic people living in the Northern Scandinavia. They initially lived by hunting and gathering , the reindeer possibly being their main resource. Sharpening stones, ceramics and clubs have been found at the village of Ammarnäs, quartz shards, arrowheads were found near Tjulträsk and fragments of

7605-501: The end of the last ice age, the large ice sheet to the east often survived longer than that of the mountain valleys. As a result, several lakes were formed as the water was trapped between the mountains to the west and glaciers to the east. Lakes such as Marsivagge Lake at Tjulträsk and Tärnasjön Lake have left alluvial terraces. For example, an alluvial terrace can be seen northwest of Tärnasjön at an altitude of about 700 m. The retreat of glaciers also spread moraines of different types in

7722-412: The great glaciations of the Quaternary (from 1.5 Ma) has had the most influence on the current geomorphology of the chain and the reserve. Glaciers grew and invaded the valleys, and then gradually unified to form a continuous ice sheet that completely covered the area. The nature of the rocks had a considerable influence on amount of glacial erosion. Most of soft rocks of Koli layer were quickly eroded while

7839-482: The installation of the Swedes, to serve as a place of worship for the recently evangelized Sami. For example, the chapel of Jillesnåle, near the reserve, on the banks of Storvindeln, was originally built in 1750, and the chapel of Vila was built in 1723 near Lake Överuman but was abandoned after the change of Norwegian border in 1751 and caught fire four years later. Within the reserve, south of Lake Överst-Juktan, also lies

7956-462: The islands, dating from the eighteenth and nineteenth century, probably placed there to protect them from predators. Among the remains, there are also broader foundations than traditional Sami dwellings, the Sámi legends associate these with a Stallo , an evil giant. Recent studies show that this is actually the oldest known Sami settlement. In the reserve, these large foundations are often located near

8073-412: The landscape. Although partly translated into Swedish, geographic names in the region offer some information on the life and culture of the Sami. The Swedes started to colonize the area in the eighteenth century, encouraged by incentives from the state. The population in the current reserve boundaries, however, remained minimal. In the middle of the twentieth century, the hydroelectric industry expanded to

8190-405: The landscape. Besides the terminal moraines , there is also an excellent example of Rogen moraine responsible for the archipelago south of Lake Tärnasjön. A well formed moraine over 3 km long can be seen on the west side of the valley Marsivagge; its origin is still not well understood. A few eskers can also be found in some areas of the reserve. The area of Artfjället – Övre Ältsvattnet

8307-441: The largest of which often have an elongated shape, following the topography of the valleys. The two largest lakes are Överst-Juktan and Tärnasjön, both measuring about 20 km long. The Tärnasjön is particularly notable for the large number of small islands in the southern third of the lake, forming a mosaic of water and forest, which extends south of the lake to one of the largest wetlands reserves. Another vast wetland, Laivamyren,

8424-504: The layers tend to rise from west to east, which implies that the west-facing slopes are gentle in general, while the eastern slopes are often steep. The most visible signs of the glacial morphology are glacial valleys and U-valleys, such as Syterskalet, the top of the Vindelälven Valley, Skebleskalet, etc. There are also some forty small glacial craters or niches, most facing east, on the leeward side. When glaciers retreated at

8541-563: The lower alpine, and act as a transition between the birch forests and higher altitude grassy moorlands. The European goldenrod ( Solidago virgaurea ) and blueberries are also found at this level. The birch forests are more sensitive and are strongly influenced by the local climate at this level. On dry land, crowberry ( Empetrum nigrum ) is a dominant species. In areas exposed to wind, only the dwarf azaleas ( Kalmia procumbens ) and alpine bearberry ( Arctostaphylos alpina ) develop. Conversely, in calcareous soils, moorlands and meadows shrubs such as

8658-408: The lower limit of permafrost, the mean glacier altitude (or glaciation limit) is related to the amount of precipitation . Thus the snow line , or glacier equilibrium line as the limit between the accumulation zone and ablation zone shows the opposite trend, from 1,500 metres (4,900 ft) in the west ( Jostefonn ) to 2,100 metres (6,900 ft) in the east ( Jotunheimen ). Most of the rocks of

8775-541: The lower nappes. It was during the Silurian and Devonian periods that the Caledonian nappes were stacked upon the older rocks and upon themselves. This occurred in connection with the closure of the Iapetus Ocean as the ancient continents of Laurentia and Baltica collided . This collision produced a Himalayan -sized mountain range named the Caledonian Mountains roughly over the same area as

8892-453: The medium alpine level, often defined as the region above the limit of blueberries, the number of species is greatly reduced and the ground is increasingly frayed. Only the most resilient plants thrive; such as dwarf azaleas, crowberry, the blue heath ( Phyllodoce caerulea ), the moss bell heather ( Harrimanella hypnoides ), the pincushion plant ( Diapensia lapponica ) and glacier buttercup ( Ranunculus glacialis ). The plants that can survive in

9009-586: The middle of the valleys and snow cover usually persists until early June. The Vindelfjällen mountains have a rich river system flowing through it. The reserve covers a large part of the mountainous section of the Ume River watershed and protects the Vindel River, the main tributary of the watershed. The Vindel River is one of four "national rivers" with the Torne River , Kalix River and the Pite River : four great rivers of northern Sweden whose watershed

9126-610: The moors near wetlands, there is also the Eurasian dotterel ( Charadrius morinellus ) and the European golden plover ( Pluvialis apricaria ). The black-throated loon ( Gavia arctica ) and the osprey ( Pandion haliaetus ) usually nest near the lakes. The wetlands are not the only places where there are birds in the reserve. Regular inventories conducted in Tjulträsk Valley show that between 400 and 500 pairs of birds nest in one square kilometer of birch forests, half of which are

9243-582: The most common. Their undergrowth woods are dominated by mosses and blueberries ( Vaccinium myrtillus ) and low grasses. On the other hand, the prairie forests occur in areas where limestone is more common, such as the Artfjället mountain range or in sunny areas and with good access to water, such as on the north shore of Lake Stor-Tjulträsket, on the areas of the Vindel River valley facing south or near Aivak north of Lake Överst-Jukan. The undergrowth there are far richer, with diversity of grass species. The reserve has many wetlands usually in subalpine regions. This

9360-442: The mountain avens ( Dryas octopetala ) are more abundant. This is particularly the case on the Artfjället mountain range, which is renowned for its rich flora. In fact the name Artfjället may be translated as 'mountain of many species'. The meadows also display a multitude of colorful flora, including the wolf's-bane ( Aconitum lycoctonum ), the alpine sow-thistle ( Cicerbita alpina ), and the globeflower ( Trollius europaeus ) In

9477-515: The mountain range contains the highest mountain of Northern Europe, Galdhøpiggen at almost 2,500 m (8,200 ft). This part of the mountain chain is also broader and contains a series of plateaux and gently undulating surfaces that hosts scattered inselbergs . The plateaux and undulating surfaces of the southern Scandinavian Mountains form a series of stepped surfaces. Geomorphologist Karna Lidmar-Bergström and co-workers recognize five widespread stepped surfaces. In eastern Norway, some of

9594-724: The mountains and plateaux found on the opposite side of the North Atlantic in Eastern Greenland or in Australia's Great Dividing Range . The Scandinavian Mountains attained their height by tectonic processes different from orogeny, chiefly in the Cenozoic . A two-stage model of uplift has been proposed for the Scandinavian Mountains in South Norway. A first stage in the Mesozoic and a second stage starting from

9711-400: The mountains are an important hunting ground for the golden eagle ( Aquila chrysaetos ), rough-legged buzzard ( Buteo lagopus ), the common Raven ( Corvus corax ), the snowy owl ( Bubo scandiacus ) long-tailed jaeger ( Stercorarius longicaudus ), the gyrfalcon ( Falco rusticolus ) and the peregrine falcon ( Falco peregrinus ). The first humans arrived in the mountains after the ice retreated at

9828-550: The mountains. The differences in elevation highlight the diversity of rocks in the mountains. Among the mountains are the valleys and waterways of the Ume River drainage basin . This includes a portion of the Vindel River , after which the reserve is named. Towards the east, the elevation decreases and the mountains give way to the Lapland Plains. This landscape diversity also includes biodiversity. The reserve covers

9945-577: The nature reserve into a national park to improve the protection of the area. In addition to the inhabitants, the reserve sees considerable activity from tourists both in winter and summer. Hiking is one of the main activities, especially along the well known Kungsleden trail, which crosses the reserve along its length. The summer roads are also often used for cross-country ski trails or snowmobile trails in winter. Finally many ecotourism activities are offered by various tourism businesses. Besides tourism, traditional activities such as reindeer herding, by

10062-453: The neighbouring national park Stora Sjöfallet . The other four peaks are located in the further north region of Kebnekaise . All mountain names are in Sami but with the more common Swedish spelling of it. Other popular mountains for skiers, climbers and hikers in Sweden [REDACTED] Media related to Scandinavian Mountains (range) at Wikimedia Commons Storuman Storuman ( Southern Sami : Luspie , Ume Sami : Lusspie )

10179-417: The north of the country and tried to exploit the Vindel River for electric power , but environmental protests managed to protect the river and its watershed. In 1974, the reserve was established, protecting the unspoiled nature of the mountains of Vindel River watershed. In 1988, the reserve was extended to protect the primary forests of the foothills. Recently there has been discussions regarding transforming

10296-507: The oceanic crust. These layers can be found embedded within the mountain range ( ophiolite ). They consist of different rocks: the Seve layer is primarily composed of hard rock such as amphibolite and gabbros or very hard varieties of mica , while the Köli layer principally comprises soft rocks such as shale . This sheet of Seve-Köli dominates the geology of the reserve, the main exception being

10413-455: The peak of Halti is situated in Norway. The Scandinavian montane birch forest and grasslands terrestrial ecoregion is closely associated with the mountain range. In Swedish , the mountain range is called Skandinaviska fjällkedjan , Skanderna (encyclopedic and professional usage), Fjällen ('the Fells ', common in colloquial speech) or Kölen ('the Keel'). In Norwegian , it

10530-517: The present-day Scandinavian Mountains. The Caledonian Mountains began a post-orogenic collapse in the Devonian, implying tectonic extension and subsidence. Despite occurring in about the same area, the ancient Caledonian Mountains and the modern Scandinavian Mountains are unrelated. The origin of today's mountain topography is debated by geologists. Geologically, the Scandinavian Mountains are an elevated, passive continental margin similar to

10647-549: The priest who officiated at the Jillesnåle chapel also had to travel to Tärnaby chapel, 70 km away, and officiate there. Due to the lack of road, a path was created between the two churches. This path through the south of the reserve still exists today. Another example is a path that starts at Ammarnäs and follows the Vindel River valley then joins Vindelkroken and then crosses the Norwegian border to Mo i Rana . This path

10764-481: The primary forests of the Nordic taiga in the eastern plains to alpine tundra and birch forests in the west. In addition, it houses a large number of wetlands , which are home to an abundance of bird species, especially at Marsivagge and around the lake Tärnasjön, the latter recognized as a Ramsar site . The mountains are also home to the arctic fox , a critically endangered species in Scandinavia and one of

10881-430: The region. Finally, the wolverine ( Gulo gulo , classified as endangered in Sweden) is well established in the reserve. Although it is typically a forest animal, it is no longer present in the forests of Sweden except for near the mountains and Vindelfjällen is no exception. This is likely due to large population around Ammarfjället. Other predators include the red fox ( Vulpes vulpes ), which, as in most Swedish mountains,

10998-523: The relief is that slopes corresponding to footwalls of normal faults tend to be straight. There is evidence that the drainage divide between the Norwegian Sea and the south-east flowing rivers were once further west. Glacial erosion is thought to have contributed to the shift of the divide, which in some cases ought to have been in excess of 50 km. Much of the Scandinavian Mountains has been sculpted by glacial erosion . The mountain chain

11115-407: The reserve and are especially valuable due to the nature of being primary forests, in other words, they have never been harvested. These primary forests are also important for numerous species, many of which are threatened by the intensive deforestation of the taiga. From the foot of the Swedish mountains and along the entire length of the chain, these forests create a valuable continuity, essential for

11232-418: The reserve consists of rolling hills and numerous emerging mountain ranges. At the western end of the reserve is that of Artfjället, culminating at 1,471 m. Artfjället consists of several sharp mountain ridges, as well as some rounded peaks. Centrally in the reserve is the Ammarfjället mountain range, with a peak plateau reaching its maximum at Rerrogaise (1,611 m). northeast, the Björkfjället mountain range forms

11349-404: The reserve has about 500 km of primary coniferous forests, over 1600 km of birch forests (the largest protected birch forest in Sweden), nearly 1600 km of alpine moorland and nearly 300 km peatland Among the several habitats are permanent glaciers , alpine rivers, palsa mires , alpine and boreal heaths and grasslands , mountain hay meadows , and natural rivers Many of

11466-528: The reserve, however, spruce typically dominates, and pine is found in only localized areas. Taiga grows primarily at altitudes below 600 m, but some isolated spruce are found among the birches further upstream forests in the valleys. The reserve did not initially include the taiga zone of the Juktån Valley, but the extension in 1988 brought in three new taiga areas: Giertsbäcksdalen, Matsorkliden and Kirjesålandet. These rich forests needed protection within

11583-404: The rocks of the Seve layer were more resistant to erosion. Thus, the peaks of Stor-Aigert, as well as the Ammarfjället, Rerrogaise, Sulåive and Stubebakte mountain ranges currently consist of amphibolites and have steep reliefs. Similarly, the highest points of the Artfjället and Norra Storfjället mountain ranges consist largely of gabbros. The general direction of water flow also affects the relief:

11700-427: The southern centre of the ice sheet a thousand years later. The northern centre remained a few hundred years more, and by 9,7 ka BP the eastern Sarek Mountains hosted the last remnant of the Fennoscandian Ice Sheet. As the ice sheet retreated to the Scandinavian Mountains it was dissimilar to the early mountain glaciation that gave origin to the ice sheet as the ice divide lagged behind as the ice mass concentrated in

11817-769: The species living in the reserve are included in the Habitats Directive and the Birds Directive of the European Union and / or are considered threatened at the national or international level, which justifies the classification of the reserve in the Natura 2000 network as important bird area. In addition, Lake Tärnasjön is classified as a Ramsar site (an area of 11 800 ha). The Scandinavian taiga coniferous forest consists mainly of Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris) and Norway spruce (Picea abies). Within

11934-413: The stepped surfaces merge into a single surface. Dovre and Jotunheimen are rises from the highest of the stepped surfaces. In south-western Norway, the plateaux and gently undulating surfaces are strongly dissected by fjords and valleys . The mountain chain is present in Sweden from northern Dalarna northwards; south of this point the Scandinavian Mountains lie completely within Norway. Most of

12051-422: The survival of several species here. Finally, while the remaining primary forests are often on nutrient-poor substrate, certain areas of the reserve are considered productive , especially Kirjesålandet, ideally exposed to the southwest and thus offering an ecological niche for unique flora. Near the mountain, fires are less frequent than in the plains to the east. In terms of vegetation, the forests are home to

12168-518: The symbols of the reserve. The region has been populated since the end of the last ice age or about 9000 years. Originally, it was likely the ancestors of today's Sami , a nomadic people of Northern Europe. They initially lived by gathering and hunting, especially deer, but gradually developed a culture based on breeding and ranching, showing evidence of transhumance movements. This lifestyle left few traces, but some traps, old foundations, tombs and various artifacts have been found scattered throughout

12285-405: The top of Kebnekaise. In the Scandinavian Mountains, the lower limit of widespread discontinuous permafrost drops from 1,700 metres (5,600 ft) in the west of southern Norway to 1,500 metres (4,900 ft) near the border with Sweden, and from 1,600 metres (5,200 ft) in northern Norway to 1,100 metres (3,600 ft) in northern, more continental Sweden ( Kebnekaise area). In contrast to

12402-414: The traps. For example, there are some of these at Vindelkroken and several near Lake Överuman. The stallos are often described as stupid but have superhuman strength. There is a huge stone placed on some small pebbles on top near Lake Giengeljaure named stalostenen , which literally means 'stone Stallo'. Legend dictates that a Stallo would have placed a stone here to prove his strength. The reserve has

12519-475: The upper alpine level (beyond 1300 m) are predominantly limited to mosses and lichens , though the buttercup glaciers are sometimes found at these altitudes as well. The levels of vegetation are also important for animals: species diversity is much greater at lower altitudes, especially in forests. However unlike plants, the animals are rarely restricted to a particular level. Vindelfjällen home to many mammals characteristic of Swedish forests. A typical example

12636-411: The valley is quite sunken, surrounded by the Ammarfjället and Björkfjället mountain ranges and the valley widens when approaching Ammarnäs. The lowest point of the reserve, at 345 m above sea level, is located south of the valley, at the shores of Lake Storvindeln. At the center of the reserve is another large area of low altitude around Lake Tärnasjön. The terrain is flat, which has led to the formation of

12753-440: The valleys. There were however no villages until the nineteenth century, e.g. villages were created in the area around the lake Stor-Laisan Ammarnäs in 1830. The first house was built in 1826, and in 1850 the village was already well-formed. This colonization was encouraged by the kingdom via an exemption from taxes or other privileges. Most current villages date back to this period. Several churches were built, sometimes even before

12870-649: The west. Of the 10 highest mountain peaks in Scandinavia ( prominence greater than 30 m or 98 ft), six are situated in Oppland , Norway. The other four are situated in Sogn og Fjordane , Norway. Chronological history There are 12 peaks in Sweden that reach above 2,000 m high (6,600 ft), or 13 depending on how the peaks are defined. Eight of them are located in Sarek National Park and

12987-420: The western side of Norra Storfjället, receives about 750 mm. In the mountains themselves, the amount of precipitation reaches 1200 mm in places. The growing season in Sweden, defined as the number of days when the average temperature exceed 5 °C, is about 120 days. Because of cooler temperatures, much of this precipitation is in the form of snow. The first snow fall, on average, is in early October in

13104-540: The western side of the mountain range. Although the ages of these deposits and landforms vary, most of them were formed in connection to the Weichselian glaciation and the subsequent deglaciation . The Cenozoic glaciations that affected Fennoscandia most likely began in the Scandinavian Mountains. It is estimated that during 50% of the last 2.75 million years the Scandinavian Mountains hosted mountain-centered ice caps and ice fields . The ice fields from which

13221-559: The willow warbler ( Phylloscopus trochilus ). These forests and the alpine willow bushes are also the territory of the bluethroat ( Luscinia svecica ), the Lapland longspur ( Calcarius lapponicus ) and the willow ptarmigan ( Lagopus lagopus ). The moorlands, on the other hand, are the territory of the northern wheatear ( Oenanthe oenanthe ), the meadow pipit ( Anthus pratensis ) and the occasional horned lark ( Eremophila alpestris ). At higher altitudes, birds are sparse, but snow bunting ( Plectrophenax nivalis ) can be found in this region. Finally,

13338-468: The years. A 2012 study argues that the Scandinavian Mountains and other elevated passive continental margins most likely share the same mechanism of uplift and that this mechanism is related to far-field stresses in Earth's lithosphere . The Scandinavian Mountains can according to this view be likened to a giant anticlinal lithospheric fold . Folding could have been caused by horizontal compression acting on

13455-405: Was actually a place where the Sami were accustomed to making sacrifices of wood or other animal bones. A similar site is Rosapakte, east of Lillfjället near Lake Överuman . There are likely many graves and sacred sites that are not known, as the Sami likely wanted to protect those sites from plundering . Since the twentieth century, the way of life of Samis has evolved rather quickly. One of

13572-466: Was drilled in bedrock above Tarfala research station at an altitude of 1,540 m (5,050 ft) above sea level. The stable ground temperature at a depth of 100 metres (330 ft) is still −2.75 °C (27.05 °F). The measured geothermal gradient in the drillhole of 1.17 °C /100 m allows to extrapolate a permafrost thickness of 330 metres (1,080 ft), a further proof that continuous permafrost exists in these altitudes and above, up to

13689-539: Was used during the mid-nineteenth century, to buy relatively cheap groceries in Norway, during an economically difficult time for the Swedish. This journey of a hundred kilometers, with loads approaching 50 kg, was very challenging, and some of these Norgefarare , such as Josef Berglund of Ammarnäs, became local legends. From 1892 a particularly difficult year, people began to use horses to transport resources, and had to build barns and cottages along these roads, such as Vitnjul and Dalavardo. This trade continued until

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