59-647: The Tararua Range , often referred to as the Tararua Ranges or Tararua , is one of several mountain ranges in the North Island of New Zealand. The Tararua Range runs northeast–southwest for 80 km (50 mi) from near Palmerston North to the upper reaches of the Hutt Valley , where the northern tip of the Remutaka Range begins. It is separated in the north from the southern end of
118-654: A Tūhono organisation. Te Runanga o Toa Rangatira is an incorporated society , governed by a board of 15 representatives, including three elected from iwi whānui, some appointed from Hamilton, Nelson and Wairau, and some appointed from marae and other Ngāti Toa organisations. As of 2016, the iwi chairperson is Taku Parai, the executive director is Matiu Rei, and the society is based in Porirua . Wellington pan-tribal Māori radio station Te Upoko O Te Ika has been affiliated to Ngāti Toa since 2014. It began part-time broadcasting in 1983 and full-time broadcasting in 1987, and it
177-575: A mythical status as the patupaiarehe (fairy folk) of the Tarurua Range. In the 1820s the Muaūpoko in turn were forced to flee to the ranges when under attack by the Ngāti Toa led by Te Rauparaha . In spite of such intrusions, the mountain range remained the home of distant gods or hostile wild men ( maero ). As such, it was a special place to be respected but avoided. In the 1870s a large portion of
236-569: A particular trader. In 2009, as a part of a wider settlement of grievances, the New Zealand government agreed to: In November 2021, tribal elders told anti-Covid-vaccine protesters in New Zealand to stop using the Ka Mate haka at their rallies. There are four marae (communal places) and wharenui (meeting houses) affiliated with Ngāti Toa: Te Runanga o Toa Rangatira Inc
295-528: A popular tramping location for the greater Wellington district. It is one of the most frequently entered ranges in the country, with between 120,000 and 150,000 people visiting each year. Among the many tramping tracks is the well-known Southern Crossing running from Ōtaki Forks in the west, over Mount Hector and exiting via Kaitoke . The hills include 6 campsites. They are accessible by car, although visitors may need to travel over gravel roads that contain occasional fords. Campsites are generally located within
354-745: A total ascent of 2,250 m (7,380 ft) plus a slightly longer descent, and requires the deployment of 50 volunteers as marshals, search and rescue teams, first aid helpers, and support staff. It frequently encounters adverse weather and is not regarded as a suitable event for inexperienced participants. Maclean, Chris (December 1994). Tararua: The Story of a Mountain Range . Whitcombe Press. ISBN 978-0-473-02613-4 . Retrieved 8 October 2019 . North Island The North Island ( Māori : Te Ika-a-Māui [tɛ i.kɐ ɐ mɑː.ʉ.i] , lit. 'the fish of Māui', officially North Island or Te Ika-a-Māui or historically New Ulster )
413-709: A whole. During the Last Glacial Period when sea levels were over 100 metres lower than present day levels, the North and South islands were connected by a vast coastal plain which formed at the South Taranaki Bight . During this period, most of the North Island was covered in thorn scrubland and forest , while the modern-day Northland Peninsula was a subtropical rainforest . Sea levels began to rise 7,000 years ago, eventually separating
472-662: Is New Zealand's longest-running Māori radio station. Atiawa Toa FM is an official radio station of Ngāti Toa and Te Atiawa . It began as Atiawa FM in 1993, broadcasting to Te Atiawa in the Hutt Valley and Wellington. It changed its name in Atiawa Toa FM in mid-1997, expanding its reach to Ngāti Toa in Porirua and Kāpiti Coast. Ngāti Toa have interests in the territories of Greater Wellington Regional Council , Tasman District Council , Nelson City Council and Marlborough District Council . They also have interests in
531-465: Is in the North Island", "my mother lives in the North Island". Maps, headings, tables, and adjectival expressions use North Island without "the". According to Māori mythology , the North and South Islands of New Zealand arose through the actions of the demigod Māui . Māui and his brothers were fishing from their canoe (the South Island) when he caught a great fish and pulled it right up from
590-474: Is one of the two main islands of New Zealand , separated from the larger but less populous South Island by Cook Strait . With an area of 113,729 km (43,911 sq mi), it is the world's 14th-largest island , constituting 43% of New Zealand's land area. It has a population of 4,077,800 (June 2024), which is 76% of New Zealand's residents, making it the most populous island in Polynesia and
649-783: Is recognised by the New Zealand Government as the governance entity of Ngāti Toa following its Treaty of Waitangi settlement with the Crown under Ngāti Toa Rangatira Claims Settlement Act 2014. It is a mandated iwi organisation under the Māori Fisheries Act 2004, an iwi aquaculture organisation under the Māori Commercial Aquaculture Claims Settlement Act 2004, an "iwi authority" under the Resource Management Act , and
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#1732781062527708-533: Is the mountain Raukawa (Cook Strait) is the sea Tainui is the waka Ngāti Toarangatira is the tribe Te Rauparaha is the man Tū-pāhau , a descendant of Hoturoa, the captain of the Tainui canoe , received warning of an imminent attack by Tamure, a priest of Tainui , and at once organised a plan of defence and attack. Tamure had an army of 2000 warriors whereas Tupahau had only 300. Tū-pāhau and his followers won
767-448: The 28th-most-populous island in the world. Twelve main urban areas (half of them officially cities) are in the North Island. From north to south, they are Whangārei , Auckland , Hamilton , Tauranga , Rotorua , Gisborne , New Plymouth , Napier , Hastings , Whanganui , Palmerston North , and New Zealand's capital city Wellington , which is located at the south-west tip of the island. The island has been known internationally as
826-589: The New Zealand Company "on two grounds – alleged purchase by Captain Blenkinsop, master of a Sydney whaler in 1831-2; and the negotiations between their principal agent (Colonel Wakefield) and Rauparaha, the head of this tribe, in 1839". Te Rauparaha burnt down a whare which contained survey equipment. The Nelson magistrate ordered his arrest and deputised a number of citizens as police. Te Rauparaha resisted arrest and fighting broke out, resulting in
885-506: The North Island for many years. The Te Reo Māori name for it, Te Ika-a-Māui , also has official recognition but it remains seldom used by most residents. On some 19th-century maps, the North Island is named New Ulster (named after Ulster province in northern Ireland) which was also a province of New Zealand that included the North Island. In 2009 the New Zealand Geographic Board found that, along with
944-657: The Ruahine Range by the Manawatū Gorge . Most of the Range is wilderness, protected as the Tararua Forest Park . The highest peak in the Tararua Range is Pukeamoamo / Mitre (not to be confused with Mitre Peak ) at 1,570 m (5,150 ft). Other prominent peaks include Mount Bannister at 1,537 m (5,043 ft) and Mount Hector at 1,529 m (5,016 ft), which is named after
1003-583: The Treaty of Waitangi twice in May and June 1840: first at Kapiti Island and then again at Wairau. Te Rauparaha resisted European settlement in those areas which he claimed he had not sold. Later disputes occurred over Porirua and the Hutt Valley . But the major clash came in 1843 when Te Rauparaha and his nephew Te Rangihaeata tried to prevent the survey of lands in the Wairau plains. These lands had been claimed by
1062-576: The Waikato and Ngāti Maniapoto iwi and then, after his defeat, with piloting the migration to, and the conquest and settlement of, the Cook Strait region in the 1820s. Later he crossed Cook Strait to attack the Rangitane people in the Wairau valley. His attempt to conquer the southern South Island iwi was thwarted by an outbreak of measles which killed many of his warriors. Te Rauparaha signed
1121-496: The Wellington regions together with three North Taranaki iwi, Te Āti Awa , Ngāti Tama and Ngāti Mutunga . Together they fought with and conquered the turangawaewae of Wellington, Ngāti Ira , wiping out their existence as an independent iwi. After the 1820s, the region conquered by Ngāti Toa extended from Miria-te-kakara at Rangitikei to Wellington , and across Cook Strait to Wairau and Nelson . A saying delineates
1180-590: The 2023 census, 63.1% of North Islanders identified as European ( Pākehā ), 19.8% as Māori , 10.6% as Pacific peoples , 19.3% as Asian , 1.9% as Middle Eastern/Latin American/African, and 1.1% as other ethnicities. Percentages add to more than 100% as people can identify with more than one ethnicity. Māori form the majority in three districts of the North Island: Kawerau (63.2%), Ōpōtiki (66.2%) and Wairoa (68.5%). Europeans formed
1239-536: The North Island is provided by fifteen District Health Boards (DHBs) . Organised around geographical areas of varying population sizes, they are not coterminous with the Local Government Regions . Ng%C4%81ti Toa Ngāti Toa , Ngāti Toarangatira or Ngāti Toa Rangatira , is a Māori iwi (tribe) based in the southern North Island and in the northern South Island of New Zealand . Its rohe (tribal area) extends from Whanganui in
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#17327810625271298-447: The North Island. Subsequent erosion contributed to the present pattern of parallel ranges divided by deep river valleys. The ranges provide a back-drop for the Kāpiti coastal plain. The 15 peaks in the Tararua Range of 1,500 m or higher are (from north to south): Other notable peaks in the range are Jumbo Peak (1,405 m) and Mount Holdsworth (1,470 m). The western slopes of
1357-586: The Pahiatua Track in the north, to the Rimutaka Saddle in the south. The main entrance on the eastern side of the ranges is at Holdsworth, and on the west side from Ōtaki Forks . The only all-weather road right across the range is the Pahiatua Track, which joins Palmerston North and Pahiatua . It is now used more heavily since the Manawatū Gorge road was permanently closed in 2017 due to recurring large landslides. The Tararua Range serves as
1416-519: The South Island, the North Island had no official name. After a public consultation, the board officially named it North Island, or the aforementioned Te Ika-a-Māui, in October 2013. In prose, the two main islands of New Zealand are called the North Island and the South Island , with the definite article. It is also normal to use the preposition in rather than on , for example "Hamilton
1475-437: The South Island, this is solely due to the North Island having higher natural increase (i.e. births minus deaths) and international migration; since the late 1980s, the internal migration flow has been from the North Island to the South Island. In the year to June 2020, the North Island gained 21,950 people from natural increase and 62,710 people from international migration, while losing 3,570 people from internal migration. At
1534-462: The South Island, with the country's largest city, Auckland, and the capital, Wellington, accounting for nearly half of it. There are 30 urban areas in the North Island with a population of 10,000 or more: The sub-national GDP of the North Island was estimated at NZ$ 282.355 billion in 2021 (78% of New Zealand's national GDP). Nine local government regions cover the North Island and its adjacent islands and territorial waters. Healthcare in
1593-414: The Tararua Range has a wide diversity of vegetation, ranging from alpine tussock grasslands and subalpine shrublands to forests of montane miro/ kamahi , or beech or lowland broadleaf forests with emergent podocarps and kamahi . The forest in the northern part of the Tararua Range consists mainly of tawa and miro indigenous woodlands. Further south species such as beech are widely seen. Finally, along
1652-713: The Tararua Range since 1970, most recently one in January 2023. Other deaths included those of the Chief Executive of the National Museum of New Zealand Te Papa: Dr Seddon Bennington and a friend Marcella Jackson, who died of hypothermia in June 2009. The Tararua Mountain Race, following a track of 35.4 km (22.0 mi), from Kaitoke to Ōtaki Forks, has been held annually since 1990. The running race involves
1711-587: The Victorian period – though largely romanticized and usually undertaken from a distance. By the 1920s, with the neighbouring countryside largely settled, the potential of the range as an area for outdoor recreation rather than for exploitation began to be recognised. The 116,535 hectare Tararua Forest Park covers more than three-quarters of the Tararua Range. It is administered by the New Zealand Department of Conservation and extends from
1770-520: The Waikato–Maniapoto tribes for control of the rich fertile land north of Kāwhia. The wars intensified with every killing of a major chief and with each insult and slight suffered, peaking with the huge battle of Hingakaka in the late 18th or early 19th century. Ngāti Toa migrated from Kāwhia to the Cook Strait region under the leadership of their chief Te Rauparaha in the 1820s. Together,
1829-526: The author of the haka " Ka mate, ka mate ", which he composed after being hidden in a rua (potato pit) by a woman in the Taupō region after a defeat in battle. Ngāti Toa lived around the Kāwhia region for many generations until increasing conflicts with neighbouring Waikato– Maniapoto iwi forced a withdrawal from their homeland. From the late eighteenth century Ngāti Toa and related tribes constantly warred with
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1888-405: The battle, however Tū-pāhau spared Tamure's life. Tamure responded to this by saying, Tēnā koe Tupahau, te toa rangatira! meaning "Hail Tū-pāhau the chivalrous warrior!" ( toa meaning "brave man" or "champion" and rangatira meaning "gallant", "grand", "admirable" or "chiefly"). Later, Tū-pāhau's daughter-in-law bore a son who received the name "Toa-rangatira" to commemorate both this event and
1947-411: The circumnavigation of New Zealand. The maps described the North Island as " Ea Heinom Auwe " and " Aeheinomowe ", which recognises the "Fish of Māui" element. Another Māori name that was given to the North Island, but is now used less commonly, is Aotearoa . Use of Aotearoa to describe the North Island fell out of favour in the early 20th century, and it is now a collective Māori name for New Zealand as
2006-451: The conclusion of the Otago gold rush in the 1860s, New Zealand's European population growth has experienced a steady 'Northern drift' as population centres in the North Island have grown faster than those of New Zealand's South Island. This population trend has continued into the twenty-first century, but at a much slower rate. While the North Island's population continues to grow faster than
2065-547: The cultivations nearby. Pukewhakamaru lay inland of Ōkokī, up the Urenui River. Ngāti Toa stayed at Pukewhakamaru for 12 months. The Waikato–Maniapoto alliance followed Ngāti Toa to Taranaki and battles ensued there, most notably the battle of Motunui between Waikato–Maniapoto and the Ngāti Tama , Te Āti Awa and Ngāti Mutunga alliance. The name Heke Tātaramoa (translatable as the "bramble bush migration") commemorates
2124-602: The death of Te Rongo, the wife of Te Rangihaeata. Te Rangihaeata, who was known as a savage warrior, then killed the survey-party, who had surrendered, to avenge his wife's death in an act of utu . This became known as the Wairau Affray or until modern times, the Wairau massacre, as most of the Europeans were killed after the fighting had stopped. Following fighting in the Hutt Valley in 1846, Governor George Grey arrested Te Rauparaha after British troops discovered he
2183-493: The development of the fertile plains that bordered on it. In 1881 36,000 acres of the Tararua Block, including key catchment areas for four rivers, was classified as State Forest , subject to protection. Additional watersheds were added over the following decades, to create a Crown conservation reserve in excess of 250,000 acres. The scenic beauty of the Tararua Range made the mountains a popular subject for paintings during
2242-616: The difficulties experienced during Ngāti Toa's second migration. Ngāti Toa left Ōkokī around February–March 1822 after harvesting crops planted for the journey. This heke also included some people from Ngāti Tama, Ngāti Mutunga and Te Āti Awa. The heke arrived in the Horowhenua – Kāpiti region in the early 1820s and settled first in Te Awamate, near the mouth of the Rangitīkei River , then at Te Wharangi (now Foxton Beach ), at
2301-412: The eponymous ancestor Toarangatira. Prior to the 1820s, Ngāti Toa lived on the coastal west Waikato region until forced out by conflict with other Tainui iwi headed by Pōtatau Te Wherowhero ( c. 1785 - 1860), who later became the first Māori King ( r. 1858–1860 ). Ngāti Toa, Ngāti Rārua and Ngāti Koata , led by Te Rauparaha ( c. 1765-1849), escaped south and invaded Taranaki and
2360-487: The focus of what later came to be known as The Sutch Search when Mr. Eric Hill, Miss Morva Williams, Mr. Bert O’Keefe and Dr. Bill Sutch went missing for more than two weeks during an attempt to traverse from Te Matawai Hut to Mount Holdsworth during winter. An accident while sidling the Broken Axe Pinnacles prevented the group getting to Mt Holdsworth in a day as planned. Then bad weather forced them off
2419-649: The foothills of the range, alongside a river or stream. The Tararua Range is significant in the history of tramping in New Zealand, due to its accessibility for people in Wellington and nearby towns. Two of the most popular tracks are the Northern Crossing from Levin to the Wairarapa , and the Southern Crossing from Ōtaki Forks to near Masterton . In April 1933, the Tararua Range was
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2478-601: The islands and linking the Cook Strait to the Tasman Sea . The North Island has an estimated population of 4,077,800 as of June 2024. The North Island had a population of 3,808,005 at the 2023 New Zealand census , an increase of 213,453 people (5.9%) since the 2018 census , and an increase of 570,957 people (17.6%) since the 2013 census . Of the total population, 733,893 people (19.3%) were aged under 15 years, 743,154 (19.5%) were 15 to 29, 1,721,427 (45.2%) were 30 to 64, and 609,534 (16.0%) were 65 or older. Ever since
2537-461: The major contributing events towards the formation of New Zealand's voluntary Land Search and Rescue service ( LSAR ). It was covered intensely by media at the time, and when the group finally returned they sparked strong public debate regarding the responsibilities of those who enter the wilderness. A combination of steep terrain, dense bush, difficult river crossings and changeable winter weather conditions has caused over twenty-two tramping deaths in
2596-563: The mountains remained a massive physical divide between the tribal settlements located along rivers, lakes and coastlines to the east and west. Some of the Kāti Māmoe (early Māori settlers on the neighbouring Kāpiti Coast) are reputed to have taken refuge in the Tararua mountains after they were displaced by the Rangitane and Muaūpoko iwi (tribal groups). The Kāti Māmoe survivors attained
2655-466: The mountains, the largest of which is the Main Range linking the twin clusters of northern and southern peaks. The summits of the ranges average between 1,300 and 1,500 metres in height. This consistency indicates that the region was once part of a level plain. About 10 million years ago parts of this relatively low-lying area were thrust up, creating a mountainous backbone for the southern part of
2714-548: The mouth of the Manawatū River , and then eventually on Kapiti Island . Concern over inappropriate commercial use of Te Rauparaha 's Ka Mate led the iwi to attempt to trademark it, but in 2006 the Intellectual Property Office of New Zealand turned their claim down on the grounds that Ka Mate had achieved wide recognition in New Zealand and abroad as representing New Zealand as a whole and not
2773-562: The north to Palmerston North in the east. Ngāti Toa remains a small iwi with a population of only about 9,000. The iwi is centred around Porirua , Plimmerton , Kāpiti , Blenheim and Arapaoa Island. It has four marae: Takapūwāhia and Hongoeka in Porirua City, and Whakatū and Wairau in the north of the South Island . Ngāti Toa's governing body has the name Te Rūnanga o Toa Rangatira . The iwi traces its descent from
2832-470: The plurality in the Auckland region (49.8%) and are the majority in the remaining 39 districts. The proportion of North Islanders born overseas at the 2018 census were 29.3%. The most common foreign countries of birth were England (15.4% of overseas-born residents), Mainland China (11.3%), India (10.1%), South Africa (5.9%), Australia (5.5%) and Samoa (5.3%). The North Island has a larger population than
2891-501: The ranges are subject to prevailing moisture-carrying winds, channelled by Cook Strait to the south. These are the source of an annual rainfall of approximately 5,000 mm, resulting in the dominance of conifers, ferns and shrubs on the western side of the ranges. By contrast, the pattern on the eastern side is one of open beech forest in a drier environment. In spite of a reputation of being composed of gloomy bush, impenetrable leatherwood , and wet snow tussocks on mist-shrouded tops,
2950-611: The ranges was sold to the New Zealand Government by a coalition of the Iwi in possession of the surrounding region. Specifically excluded from this "Tararua Block" purchase was an area of 1,000 acres reserved to protect the sacred lake Hapuakorari, the exact location of which remained uncertain. European settlers, like their Māori counterparts, found the steep ridges and deep valleys of the Tararua Range difficult of access and intimidating in scale. The range accordingly escaped
3009-416: The ridge tops. It took more than two weeks for them to find a route down the untracked Waiohine River . The group was noticed to be missing after a week, at which time a search developed that eventually involved roughly 200 people and solicited many donations from members of the public. The search was the first in New Zealand to involve radio communications and aircraft, and is generally considered to be one of
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#17327810625273068-449: The scientist Sir James Hector. Its Māori name is Pukemoumou, or 'hill of desolation'. The Tararua Range is divided into two distinct northern and southern regions. Each of these is dominated by a central mountain peak: Arete in the north and Hector in the south. A total of ten rivers rise on the mountain slopes, providing water for the surrounding rural and urban areas from Palmerston North to Wellington. A number of ranges radiate out from
3127-486: The sea. While he was not looking, his brothers fought over the fish and chopped it up. This great fish became the North Island, and thus a Māori name for the North Island is Te Ika-a-Māui ("The Fish of Māui"). The mountains and valleys are believed to have been formed as a result of Māui's brothers' hacking at the fish. During Captain James Cook 's voyage between 1769 and 1770 , Tahitian navigator Tupaia accompanied
3186-399: The subsequent peace made between Tamure and Tū-pāhau. Ngāti Toa trace their descent from Toa-rangatira. Parekowhatu of Ngāti Raukawa , the wife of Werawera of Ngāti Toa, gave birth to Te Rauparaha in about the 1760s. According to tribal tradition the birth took place at Pātangata near Kāwhia . Te Rauparaha became the foremost chief of Ngāti Toa, credited with leading Ngāti Toa forces against
3245-423: The tribe's traditional boundaries: Mai i Miria-te-kakara ki Whitireia, Whakawhiti te moana Raukawa ki Wairau, ki Whakatū, Te Waka Tainui. However the tribe mainly lives around Porirua and Nelson. An aphorism links tribal identity with ancestors and landmarks: Ko Whitireia te maunga Ko Raukawa te moana Ko Tainui te waka Ko Ngāti Toarangatira te iwi Ko Te Rauparaha te tangata Whitireia
3304-533: The two migrations Heke Tahutahuahi and Heke Tātaramoa have the name Heke mai raro , meaning "migration from the north". The carved meeting-house bearing the name Te Heke Mai Raro , which stands on Hongoeka Marae , immortalises the migration. Heke Tahutahuahi (translatable as the "fire lighting expedition") brought the Ngāti Toa iwi out of Kāwhia and into Taranaki in 1820. The Taranaki iwi Ngāti Mutunga presented Ngāti Toa with Pukewhakamaru Pā, as well as with
3363-459: The west slopes of the ranges facing the Tasman Sea, mixed native species such as rimu , tarrier, mataī , tōtara and kahikatea are dominant. The rugged terrain and frequently harsh weather of the Tararua Range served to discourage any substantial attempt at penetration by early Māori. Although there is archaeological evidence of exploration by moa hunters as early as the twelfth century,
3422-527: Was receiving and sending secret instructions to the local Māori who were attacking settlers. In a surprise attack on his pa, Te Rauparaha, who was now quite elderly, was captured and taken prisoner of war. The government held him as a prisoner for 10 months and then kept him under house arrest in Auckland on board a prison ship, the Driver. After his capture fighting stopped in the Wellington region. Te Rauparaha
3481-444: Was released to attend a Māori peace conference at Kohimaramara in Auckland and then given his liberty after giving up any claim to the Wairau valley. Te Rauparaha's last notable achievement came with the construction of Rangiātea Church (1846) in Ōtaki . He did not adopt Christianity, although he attended church services. Te Rauparaha died on 27 November 1849, aged about 85, and was buried near Rangiātea, in Ōtaki. Many remember him as
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