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170-591: In 1776, two Franciscan missionaries Atanasio Domínguez and Silvestre Vélez de Escalante sought to find a land route between Santa Fe in Nuevo México to Monterey in Alta California . They were part of what has become known as the Domínguez–Escalante expedition , a ten-man expedition including Bernardo de Miera y Pacheco (Miera) acting as the cartographer. On September 13, they encountered what

340-683: A UNESCO Creative City in Crafts and Folk Art. Jedediah Smith Jedediah Strong Smith (January 6, 1799 – May 27, 1831) was an American clerk, transcontinental pioneer, frontiersman, hunter, trapper, author, cartographer , mountain man and explorer of the Rocky Mountains , the Western United States, and the Southwest during the early 19th century. After 75 years of obscurity following his death, Smith

510-515: A St. Louis newspaper as late as 1840, but never happened. In 1934, Sullivan published the remnants, documenting Smith's travels in 1821 and 1822 and from June 1827 until the Umpqua massacre a year later, in The Travels of Jedediah Smith , giving a new documented perspective of Smith's explorations. Along with the narrative, Sullivan published the portion of Alexander McLeod's journal documenting

680-530: A bundle of grass worth about a dime. They are the poorest looking people I ever saw. They subsist principally on mutton, onions and red pepper. In 1851, Jean Baptiste Lamy arrived, becoming bishop of New Mexico, Arizona, Utah, and Colorado in 1853. During his leadership, he traveled to France, Rome, Tucson, Los Angeles, St. Louis, New Orleans, and Mexico City. He built the Santa Fe Saint Francis Cathedral and shaped Catholicism in

850-445: A female householder with no husband present, and 45.7% were non-families. 36.4% of all households were made up of individuals living alone, and 10.2% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.20 and the average family size was 2.90. The age distribution was 20.3% under 18, 8.9% from 18 to 24, 29.0% from 25 to 44, 28.0% from 45 to 64, and 13.9% who were 65 or older. The median age

1020-417: A former Civilian Conservation Corps site that had been acquired and expanded for the purpose. Although there was a lack of evidence and no due process , the men were held on suspicion of fifth column activity. Security at Santa Fe was similar to a military prison, with twelve-foot barbed wire fences, guard towers equipped with searchlights, and guards carrying rifles, side arms and tear gas . By September,

1190-665: A group of Iroquois freemen trappers who had split off from the Hudson's Bay Company Snake Country brigade led by Alexander Ross . Smith told the Iroquois they could get better prices for their furs by selling to American traders and accompanied the brigade back to its base at Flathead Post in Montana. Smith then accompanied the brigade led by Peter Skene Ogden back southeast, leaving Flathead Post in December 1824. In April 1825, on

1360-406: A host to a variety of scientific meetings, summer schools, and public lectures, such as International q-bio Conference on Cellular Information Processing, Santa Fe Institute's Complex Systems Summer School, and LANL's Center For Nonlinear Studies Annual Conference. The city is well known as a center for arts that reflect the multicultural character of the city; since 2005, it has been designated as

1530-463: A landlocked Buenaventura wrapping around the southeast side of a "doubtful" Lake Timpanogos. The Great Salt Lake (GSL) was first seen and reported as very saline by white North Americans in 1824, apparently independently by Jim Bridger and Etienne Provost . Upon learning of the GSL, explorers began equating Lake Timpanogos on the maps with it and, apparently unaware of the fact that saline lakes such as

1700-597: A letter on October 29 to Secretary of War Eaton, who at the time was involved in a notorious Washington cabinet scandal known as the Petticoat Affair and informed Eaton of the "military implications" of the British allegedly alienating the indigene population towards any American trappers in the Pacific Northwest. According to biographer Dale L. Morgan, Smith's letter was "a clear sighted statement of

1870-674: A letter to the United States ambassador plenipotentiary to Mexico his plans to "follow up on of the largest Riv(ers) that emptied into the (San Francisco) Bay cross the mon (mountains) at its head and from thence to our deposit on the Great Salt Lake" and appeared to be following that plan. They followed the Cosumnes River (the northernmost tributary of the San Joaquin River ) upstream, but veered off it to

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2040-495: A letter to their brother Ira four months after Jedediah's death says that Jedediah had killed the "head Chief," but nothing about any other Comanche being wounded or killed. Josiah Gregg wrote in 1844 that Smith "struggled bravely to the last; and, as the Indians themselves have since related, killed two or three of their party before he was overpowered." Ezra Delos Smith stated that his grand-uncle had fought so valiantly that

2210-534: A map depicting the Buenaventura flowing to "Lac Sale". These cartographers conservatively did not try to chart the area west of that explored by Dominguez and Escalante. Beginning in 1819, maps began showing two rivers that arose from the Great Salt Lake and Sevier Lake. The northerly one was that which connected Miera's outlet from the Great Salt Lake to the Sacramento River and was referred to as

2380-610: A map of their discoveries in the West, to which Smith was the major contributor. On March 2, 1831, Smith wrote another letter to Eaton, now a few months away from resigning because of the Petticoat Affair, referencing the map and requesting to launch a federally funded exploration expedition similar to the Lewis & Clark expedition. Smith requested that Reuben Holmes, a West Point graduate and military officer, would lead

2550-669: A range of mountains at 122 degrees west longitude. Other cartographers began to boldly assert that rivers flowed from Lake Timpanogos and "Lac Salado" to the Pacific Ocean. Henry S. Tanner 's influential map of 1822 shows the Buenaventura River flowing from the north central Rockies through the Sevier Lake to the Pacific Ocean south of Monterey Bay. This map also shows two rivers flowing from Lake Timpanogos, ( Utah Lake ) one to San Francisco Bay (the R. Timpanogos),

2720-544: A ridge from which they saw the Great Salt Lake to the north, a "joyful sight" to Smith. By this time they had one horse and one mule remaining. They reached and crossed the Jordan River . Local natives told him the whites were gathered farther north at "the Little Lake" ( Bear Lake on the border between present-day Utah and Idaho). Smith borrowed a fresh horse from them and rode ahead of the other two men, reaching

2890-567: A river (the Sevier River ) flowing from the south-southeast, and turned toward the west at the point where they encountered it. Dominguez and Vélez de Escalante noted in their journal that the Native American name for this river suggested it was the same river they had named Buenaventura. They expressed doubts it was the same river because had it been so, it was substantially smaller downstream than it had been upstream--the opposite of

3060-712: A river flowing west from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean would provide an easy route for travel and trade. This dream was the descendant of the long sought Northwest Passage. When Francisco Garcés drew his maps of Alta California, he did not understand the nature of the Sierra Nevada , and he drew the "San Felipe" or San Joaquin River originating beyond the Sierras in the Great Basin and flowing to

3230-669: A riverboat pilot on the Powder River during the profitable expedition. In the four years of western fur trapping, Smith, Jackson, and Sublette were able to make a substantial profit and, at the 1830 rendezvous on the Wind River , they sold their company to Tom Fitzpatrick , Milton Sublette , Jim Bridger, Henry Fraeb , and John Baptiste Gervais who renamed it the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. After Smith's return to St. Louis in 1830, he and his partners wrote

3400-528: A search party for them. Smith and the two others, having been alerted to the attack, had climbed a hill above the camp and witnessed the massacre; they arrived at Fort Vancouver on August 10, two days after Black. McLoughlin sent Alexander McLeod south with Smith, Black, Turner, and Leland, and 37 HBC men to rescue any other men that had been in the camp that had possibly survived, and their goods. After recovering several horses in bad condition, Black and Leland remained with some HBC men to care for them, and

3570-558: A territory of Mexico after Mexican independence from Spain in 1821. It was ceded to the United States in 1848 following the Mexican–;American War , and in 1851 Santa Fe was named the capital of the U.S. Territory of New Mexico . It became New Mexico's state capital in 1912. The city prospered as the region's leading commercial and transportation hub for both Europeans and Native Americans, driven by lucrative trade and migration routes such as El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro and

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3740-510: A time, where he asked Robert Campbell to join the company as a clerk. During the second rendezvous in the summer of 1826, Ashley decided no longer to be directly involved in the business of harvesting furs. Smith left a cache near the rendezvous site at what would become known as Cache Valley in northern Utah, and he and Ashley traveled north to meet David E. Jackson and Sublette at Bear River area near present-day Soda Springs, Idaho . Ashley sold his interest in his and Smith's partnership to

3910-673: A trade or employment a year prior to their settlement in Green Township. In 1822, Smith was living in St. Louis. The same year Smith responded to an advertisement in the Missouri Gazette placed by General William H. Ashley. General Ashley and Major Andrew Henry, veterans of the War of 1812 , had established a partnership to engage in the fur trade and were looking for "One Hundred" " Enterprising Young Men " to explore and trap in

4080-503: A vulnerable position, and 12 were killed in the ensuing battle. Smith's conduct during the defense was the foundation of his reputation: "When his party was in danger, Mr. Smith was always among the foremost to meet it, and the last to fly; those who saw him on shore, at the Riccaree fight, in 1823, can attest to the truth of this assertion." Smith and another man were selected by Ashley to return to Fort Henry on foot to inform Henry of

4250-789: Is an enigma open to interpretation. While traveling throughout the American West, Smith's policy with the Native Americans was to maintain friendly relations with gifts and exchanges, learning from their cultures. As he traveled through northern California for the first time, then part of Mexican territory Alta California, he tried to maintain that policy, but the situation quickly deteriorated. The Maidu were fearful and defensive, and Smith's men killed at least seven of them upon his orders when they refused peaceful advances and demonstrated aggressive behaviors. He later wrote that they were "the lowest intermediate link between man and

4420-663: Is now called the Green River in modern day Utah, a southward-flowing tributary of the Colorado and named it San Buenaventura after the catholic saint Bonaventure . At that point in time, there was nothing mythical about the Buenaventura River. Dominguez and Vélez de Escalante's journal correctly notes that above their crossing, the river flowed toward the west. It flowed generally southwest where they crossed it and continued southwest as they traveled in its vicinity. Escalante also correctly recorded that after its junction with

4590-615: Is the capital of the U.S. state of New Mexico , and the county seat of Santa Fe County . With over 89,000 residents, Santa Fe is the fourth-most populous city in the state, and part of the Albuquerque –Santa Fe– Los Alamos combined statistical area , which had a population of 1,162,523 in 2020. Situated at the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains , the city is at the highest altitude of any U.S. state capital, with an elevation of 6,998 feet (2,133 m). Founded in 1610 as

4760-539: Is the burning Zozobra ("Old Man Gloom"), a 50-foot (15 m) marionette . Day trips in the Santa Fe area include locations such as the town of Taos , about 70 mi (113 km) north of Santa Fe. The historic Bandelier National Monument and the Valles Caldera are located approximately 30 mi (48 km) away. Santa Fe's ski resort , Ski Santa Fe , is about 16 mi (26 km) northeast of

4930-694: The Bear River in what is now Utah, Smith and his companions split from the brigade and joined a group of Americans that had wintered in the area. In late May 1825, on the Weber River near present Mountain Green, Utah , 23 freemen trappers deserted from Ogden's brigade, backed up by a group of American trappers led by Johnson Gardner. Several of the deserters were among the Iroquois trappers Smith had assisted in September 1824. Smith may have been present at

5100-729: The Colorado River , finding increasingly harsh conditions and difficult travel. Finding shelter in a friendly Mojave village near present-day Needles, California , the men and horses recuperated. Smith hired two refugees from the Spanish missions in California to guide them west. After leaving the river and heading into the Mojave Desert , the guides led them through the desert via the Mohave Trail that would become

5270-782: The Columbia River with the HBC's York Factory Express to Fort Colvile , where they acquired horses and supplies for the trip east to meet up with his partners in Pierre's Hole, on the west side of the Grand Tetons. In 1829, Captain Smith personally organized a fur trade expedition into the Blackfeet territory. Smith was able to capture a good quantity of beaver pelts before being repulsed by hostile Blackfeet. Jim Bridger served as

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5440-593: The Humboldt River , the probable source of the legend of the Buenaventura. Having determined the Buenaventura must lie further south, Smith made plans for an exploratory expedition deep into the Mexican territory of Alta California . Smith and his party of 15 left the Bear River on August 7, 1826, and after retrieving the cache he had left earlier, they headed south through present-day Utah and Nevada to

5610-531: The Kings River on February 28 and began trapping beaver. The party kept working its way north, encountering hostile Maidus . By early May 1827, Smith and his men had traveled 350 miles (560 km) north looking for the Buenaventura River, but they found no break in the Sierra Nevada range through which it could have flowed from the Rocky Mountains. On December 16, 1826, Smith had written in

5780-643: The Mississippi River , describing what he had observed the previous year. Smith left to rejoin the men he had left in California almost immediately after the rendezvous. He was accompanied by 18 men and two French-Canadian women, following much of the same route as the previous year. In the ensuing year, the Mojave along the Colorado River who had been so welcoming the previous year had clashed with trappers from Taos and were set on revenge against

5950-709: The Missouri Historical Society in 1880, discussed Smith, focusing on hearsay evidence of his piety. There was no mention of Smith in the 1891 volume 5 publication of Appletons' Cyclopædia of American Biography edited by James Grant Wilson and John Fiske . The first known publication solely about Smith was in the 1896 Annual Publication of the Historical Society of Southern California . In 1902, Hiram M. Chittenden wrote of him extensively in The American Fur Trade of

6120-757: The Museum of New Mexico in Santa Fe, was a leading promoter. He began the Santa Fe Fiesta in 1919 and the Southwest Indian Fair in 1922 (now known as the Indian Market ). When Hewett tried to attract a summer program for Texas women, many artists rebelled, saying the city should not promote artificial tourism at the expense of its artistic culture. The writers and artists formed the Old Santa Fe Association and defeated

6290-602: The Navajo people as Yootó ("bead" + "water place"). In 1598, Juan de Oñate established the area as Santa Fe de Nuevo México , a province of New Spain . Formal Spanish settlements were developed leading the colonial governor Pedro de Peralta to rename the area La Villa Real de la Santa Fé de San Francisco de Asís ("the Royal Town of the Holy Faith of Saint Francis of Assisi "). The area of Santa Fe

6460-523: The Puritan emigration between 1620 and 1640. Smith received adequate English instruction, learned some Latin, and was taught how to write decently. Around 1810, Smith's father was caught up in a legal issue involving counterfeit currency after which the elder Smith moved his family west to Erie County, Pennsylvania . At age 13, Smith worked as a clerk on a Lake Erie freighter , where he learned business practices and probably met traders returning from

6630-554: The Salt Lake frontier to the Colorado River . From there, Smith's party became the first United States citizens to cross the Mojave Desert into what is now the state of California but which at that time was part of Mexico . On the return journey, Smith and his companions were likewise the first U.S. citizens to explore and cross the Sierra Nevada and the treacherous Great Basin Desert . The following year, Smith and companions were

6800-637: The Santa Fe Trail . Santa Fe maintained its status as the political and cultural center of New Mexico throughout the Spanish, Mexican, and American periods, which have each impacted the city's development and character. Blending indigenous, Spanish, and American influences, Santa Fe is considered the cultural capital of the American southwest , and is widely regarded as one of the country's great art cities due to its vibrant art scene. In 2005, it

6970-584: The School of American Research , created in 1907 under the leadership of the prominent archaeologist Edgar Lee Hewett . In the early 20th century, Santa Fe became a base for numerous writers and artists. The first airplane to fly over Santa Fe was piloted by Rose Dugan, carrying Vera von Blumenthal as passenger. Together the two women started the development of the Pueblo Indian pottery industry, helping native women to market their wares. They contributed to

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7140-619: The Tule Lake Segregation Center . In 1945, four internees were seriously injured when violence broke out between the internees and guards in an event known as the Santa Fe Riot . The camp remained open past the end of the war; the last detainees were released in mid 1946. The facility was closed and sold as surplus soon after. The camp was located in what is now the Casa Solana neighborhood. According to

7310-413: The United States Census Bureau , the city has a total area of 37.4 sq mi (96.9 km ), of which 37.3 sq mi (96.7 km ) are land and 0.077 sq mi (0.2 km ) (0.21%) is covered by water. Santa Fe is located at 7,199 feet (2,194 m) above sea level, making it the highest state capital in the United States. The Santa Fe River and the arroyos of Santa Fe drain

7480-433: The narrow gauge Chili Line from the nearby city of Española to Santa Fe in 1886. The Territory of New Mexico incorporated the City of Santa Fe on June 17, 1891. Neither was sufficient to offset the negative effects of Santa Fe's having been bypassed by the main railroad route. It suffered gradual economic decline into the early 20th century. Activists created a number of resources for the arts and archaeology , notably

7650-739: The poverty line , including 17.2% of those under age 18 and 9.2% of those age 65 or over. Approximately 23% of households identify as LGBT . This city has a history of inclusivity, with diverse community organizations. In a September 2003 report by Angelou Economics, it was determined that Santa Fe should focus its economic development efforts in the following seven industries: Arts and Culture, Design, Hospitality, Conservation Technologies, Software Development, Publishing and New Media, and Outdoor Gear and Apparel. Three secondary targeted industries for Santa Fe to focus development in are health care, retiree services, and food & beverage. Angelou Economics recognized three economic signs that Santa Fe's economy

7820-484: The "Supposed river between the Buenaventura and the Bay of Francisco, which will probably be the communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific" toward this lake, but quite not connecting with it. A map by J. Finlayson (1822) shows a Rio de S. Buenaventura originating near the "Principle [ sic ] source of the Rio Colorado" and emptying into a salt lake the western limits of which "are unknown". This same map indicates that an uncharted Rio de San Filipe crosses

7990-418: The "Timpanogos River". In 1822, Henry Tanner posited another outlet from the Great Salt Lake, the "Los Mongos" River that was the source of the Rogue River (Oregon) . In 1825, Jedediah Smith , explored areas the north of the GSL, but did not find the Los Mongos. He sent more men to float around the shoreline to the west and south, and they were unsuccessful in finding "R. Timpanogos". However, this information

8160-408: The 1827 rendezvous, they would backtrack to the Stanislaus River and re-establish a camp there. Smith would take two men and some extra horses to get to the rendezvous as quickly as he could and return to his party with more men later in the year, and the group would continue on to the Columbia. After a difficult crossing of the Sierra Nevada near Ebbetts Pass , Smith and his two men passed around

8330-506: The Arikaras, who, because of a recent skirmish with Missouri Fur Company men, were antagonistic to the white traders. Ashley, who was bringing supplies as well as 70 new men upriver by boat, met Smith at the Arikara village on May 30. They negotiated a trade for several horses and 200 buffalo robes and planned to leave as soon as possible to avert trouble, but weather delayed them. Before they could depart, an incident provoked an Arikara attack. Forty Ashley men, including Smith, were caught in

8500-438: The British Hudson's Bay Company at Fort Vancouver on the Columbia River. The federally-funded overland exploration of the West that Smith had requested in 1831 took place starting in 1842 commanded by Lieutenant John C. Frémont under President John Tyler and President James K. Polk . It was Frémont's first two documented and published explorations of the West during the 1840s that opened the West to American expansion. Frémont

8670-483: The Brute creation". Later, during his trek across the Great Basin, he said of the desert indigenes he came upon "children of nature...unintelligent type of beings...They form a connecting link between the animal and intellectual creation..." Upon returning to Mexican California, even after suffering the Mojave massacre, he continued to try to maintain good relations, punishing two of his men, albeit lightly, who had unnecessarily killed one native and wounded another. But as

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8840-442: The Buenaventura did not exist. Upon later finding the Salinas River flowed into the Pacific at about the same point the maps depicted the mouth of the Buenaventura, Frémont concluded that it was the source of the legend and applied the name "Rio San Buenaventura" to it. After Frémont established that no rivers flowed across the Great Basin region to the Pacific, President Polk was reluctant to accept his conclusion. However, after

9010-448: The Buenaventura. In 1826, he led an expedition south from southern Idaho, and upon reaching the mouth of the Jordan River on the southeast end of the GSL, traveled south along to the east side of Utah Lake. Since he identified the Jordan River as the outlet of Utah Lake, he did not explore the lake further. He encountered the Sevier River on its northeast-flowing stretch, and assuming it continued to flow north to Utah Lake, dismissed it as

9180-409: The California coast. When Smith's party left Mexican Alta California and entered the Oregon Country, the Treaty of 1818 allowed joint occupation between Britain and the United States. In the Oregon Country, Smith's party, then numbering 19 and over 250 horses, came into contact with the Umpqua people . The tribes along the coast had monitored the party's progress, passing news of conflicts between

9350-412: The Comanche believed "he had been more than mortal, and that he could be immortal it would be better to propitiate his spirit; so they did not mutilate his body, but later gave it the same funeral rites they gave its chief" Austin Smith, who along with another Smith brother, Peter, was a member of the caravan, was able to retrieve Jedediah Smith's rifle and pistols that the Indians had taken and traded to

9520-410: The Comancheros. In the aftermath of Smith's death, President Andrew Jackson , during his second term in 1836, launched the federally-funded oceanic United States Exploring Expedition , led by Charles Wilkes , from 1838 to 1842. One of the expedition's accomplishments was the exploration of the Pacific Northwest and to lay claim on the Oregon Country, which Smith had previously explored, dominated by

9690-455: The Crows, one of Smith's men made a unique map (consisting of buffalo hide and sand), and the Crows were able to show Smith and his men the direction to the South Pass. Smith and his men crossed through this pass from east to west and encountered the Green River near the mouth of the Big Sandy River in what is now Wyoming. The group broke into two parties—one led by Smith and the other by Thomas Fitzpatrick —to trap upstream and downstream on

9860-445: The Discovery of a Central Route to the Pacific, 1822–1829: With the Original Journals , published in 1918. During the 1920s, Maurice S. Sullivan traced descendants of Smith's siblings and found two portions of the narrative of Smith's travels, written in the hand of Samuel Parkman who had been hired to assist in compiling the document after Smith's return to St. Louis in 1830. The narrative's impending publication had been announced in

10030-452: The Great Salt and Sevier Lakes have no outlets, began efforts to find the rivers flowing from them west to the Pacific as promised by maps such as Tanner's. In 1825, William H. Ashley attempted to float the Green (Buenaventura) River to either what was called "Salt Lake" (actually Sevier Lake) on Tanner's map, or the Colorado River , to which the fur traders suspected it flowed. He started in present-day Wyoming , and after passing through

10200-406: The Green and Sevier Rivers were one and the same, the maps Miera produced do not include the Rio San Ysabel and depict the Buenaventura flowing southwest from where they encountered it in northeastern Utah, to the Sevier Lake in west-central Utah. In an accompanying note to king Charles III of Spain, Miera recommended building several missions in the area and mentioned the possibility of a water way to

10370-488: The Green. The two groups met in July on the Sweetwater River , and it was decided that Fitzpatrick and two others would take the furs and the news of the identification of a feasible highway route through the Rockies to Ashley in St. Louis. Scottish-Canadian trapper Robert Stuart , employed by John Jacob Astor 's Pacific Fur Company , had previously discovered the South Pass, in mid-October 1812, while traveling overland to St. Louis from Fort Astoria , but this information

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10540-424: The HBC horses and Smith, Turner, and 18 HBC men proceeded to the massacre site. On October 28, they reached it and found 11 decomposed bodies, which they buried. They ultimately confirmed that all 4 of the unaccounted-for men had died and recovered 700 beaver pelts, 50 river otter pelts, 4 sea otter pelts, and 39 horses, as well as Harrison Rogers' journals. On October 25, 1828, while McLeod's recovery expedition

10710-433: The Missouri on the keelboat Enterprize , which sank three weeks into the journey. Smith and the other men waited at the site of the wreck for a replacement boat, hunting and foraging for food. Ashley brought up another boat with an additional 46 men and upon proceeding upriver, Smith got his first glimpse of the western frontier, coming into contact with the Sioux and Arikara . On October 1, Smith reached Fort Henry at

10880-440: The Mojave began to approach, Smith ordered his men to fire on those within range. Two Mojaves were shot and killed, one was wounded, and the remaining attackers fled. Before the Mojave could regroup, Smith and eight other surviving men retreated on foot across the Mojave Desert on the Mohave Trail to the San Bernardino Valley. Smith and the other survivors were again well received in San Gabriel. The party moved north to meet with

11050-405: The Nevada–Utah border and could go no further, but some natives Smith encountered gave them some food and told him where to find water, which he took back to Evans and revived him. As the three approached the Great Salt Lake, they again were unable to find water, and Evans collapsed again. Smith and Silas Gobel found a spring and again took back water to Evans. Finally, the men came to the top of

11220-403: The Pacific Ocean, in or near San Francisco Bay . Then, when Manuel Augustin Mascaro and Miguel Constanso made the first map of the whole Viceroyalty of New Spain (1784), they extended the "San Felipe" almost to the Sevier Lake. A similar map was published in 1820 by Sidney E. Morse showing the Rio de San Buenaventura flowing into a lake, the western limits of which are unknown. This map shows

11390-408: The Pacific Ocean, via the Buenaventura or the Timpanogos River: the river Miera depicts on his map as flowing west from the Great Salt Lake (GSL). Although Miera documented a correct description of the GSL given to them by the indigenes the Spanish assumed that what they thought had been described was incorrect and interpreted their description of the "extremely salty" lake as the ocean and assumed that

11560-482: The Pacific, and according to legend Smith carried this journal on all of his travels throughout the American West. Smith provided Clark, who had become superintendent of Indian affairs, much information from his own expeditions to the West. In 1817, the Smith family moved westward to Ohio and settled in Green Township in what is present-day Ashland County . Coming from a family of modest means, Smith sought to make his own way. He may have left his family in search of

11730-460: The Pueblos. As railroads were extended into the West, Santa Fe was originally envisioned as an important stop on the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway . But as the tracks were constructed into New Mexico, the civil engineers decided that it was more practical to go through Lamy , a town in Santa Fe County to the south of Santa Fe. A branch line was completed from Lamy to Santa Fe in 1880. The Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad extended

11900-458: The Rio San Clemente (today's White River? – which he also named) the Buenaventura River turned to the south. So, the original Buenaventura River is real and exists today under a different name. After establishing contact with a branch of the Ute (Yutahs) Tribe on the south shore of what they called Lake Timpanogos (various spellings), now called " Utah Lake ," the expedition turned south-southwest. On September 29, they were surprised to come upon

12070-406: The Rocky Mountains. Smith and his party were the first Euro-Americans to explore the southern Black Hills , in present-day South Dakota and eastern Wyoming . While looking for the Crow tribe to obtain fresh horses and get westward directions, Smith was attacked by a large grizzly bear . Smith was tackled to the ground by the grizzly, breaking his ribs. Members of his party witnessed him fight

12240-477: The Rocky Mountains. Superintendent of Indian Affairs William Clark had granted Ashley and Henry license to trade with Native Americans in the upper Missouri River , and he actively encouraged them to compete with the powerful British fur trade in the Pacific Northwest . Smith, a 6-foot-tall, 23-year-old with a commanding presence, impressed General Ashley to hire him. In late spring, Smith started up

12410-527: The Royal Town of the Holy Faith of Saint Francis of Assisi . In 1610, he designated it as the capital of the province, which it has almost constantly remained, making it the oldest state capital in the United States. Lack of Native American representation within the province of Santa Fe de Nuevo México, New Spain (current New Mexico's early government) led to the 1680 Pueblo Revolt , when groups of different Native Pueblo peoples were successful in driving

12580-517: The Sacramento River as the Buenaventura and equated Lake Timpanogos with the GSL, but did not try to connect the two. In the spring of 1827, Daniel Potts, a fur trader in the employ of Smith, encountered the Sevier River downstream from the point Smith had the previous summer. He continued to follow the river downstream to the Sevier Lake, which he confirmed was a saline lake, but did not try to circumvent it to find an outlet. He instead followed

12750-786: The Sacramento Valley for several months. Upon reaching the northern edge of the valley, the party scouted the route to the northeast afforded by the Pit River but determined it to be impassable, so veered northwest toward the Pacific coast to find the Columbia River and return to the Rocky Mountain region. Jedediah Smith became the first explorer to reach the Oregon Country overland by traveling north on

12920-627: The Santa Fe Trail. Known as the Texan Santa Fe Expedition , the force was poorly prepared and easily captured by the New Mexican military. Notwithstanding these incursions, as well as recurring conflicts between Euro-American settlers and native peoples, Santa Fe witnessed multiple migrations through the three trails that led to the city, which would give way to the railroad, Route 66 , and the interstate. In 1846,

13090-569: The Spaniards out of New Mexico to El Paso. The Pueblo people continued running New Mexico from the Palace of the Governors in Santa Fe from 1680 to 1692. The territory was reconquered in 1692 by Don Diego de Vargas through the so-called "Bloodless Reconquest", which was criticized as violent even at the time. The next governor, Francisco Cuervo y Valdez , started to broker peace, including

13260-560: The U.S. also facilitated friendly relations between the new Mexican republic and its American counterpart, for which Santa Fe was the primary nexus. When the Republic of Texas seceded from Mexico in 1836, it attempted to claim Santa Fe and other parts of Nuevo México as part of the western portion of Texas along the Río Grande . In 1841, a small military and trading expedition set out from Austin , intending to take control of

13430-532: The Umpqua massacre in Traits of American Indian Life and Character by a Fur Trader , and the Oregon Pioneers Association and Hubert Howe Bancroft wrote versions of it in 1876 and 1886, respectively. There are mentions of him in memoirs by other fur trappers, and mentions by George Gibbs and F. V. Hayden in their reports. Recollection of a Septuagenarian by William Waldo , published by

13600-509: The United States declared war on Mexico. Brigadier General Stephen W. Kearny led the main body of his Army of the West of some 1,700 soldiers into Santa Fe to claim it and the whole New Mexico Territory for the United States. By 1848 the U.S. officially gained New Mexico through the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo . Colonel Alexander William Doniphan , under the command of Kearny, recovered ammunition from Santa Fe labeled "Spain 1776" showing both

13770-497: The United States under the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo , ending the Mexican–American War . Jedediah Smith had a dry, not raucous, sense of humor and was not known to use the profanity common to his peers. Smith's immediate family were practicing Christians; his younger brother Benjamin was named after a Methodist circuit preacher , and his letters indicate his own Christian beliefs. Barton H. Barbour asserted in 2009 that

13940-633: The University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee. Another important piece of the Jedediah Smith story was discovered in 1967, when another portion of the 1830–31 narrative (again in Parkman's hand) was found amongst other historical papers in an attic in St. Louis. This portion documented Smith's first California trip (1826–27), and immediately preceded the portion of the narrative found by Sullivan 35 years earlier. George R. Brooks edited and introduced

14110-666: The West The same year Frederick Samuel Dellenbaugh wrote about Smith's exploits with the Mojave Indians in his book The Romance of the Colorado River: The Story of Its Discovery in 1540 with an Account of Later Explorations . Smith, however, again was not listed in the 1906 volume 9 publication of American Biographical Society's Biographical Dictionary of America , edited by Rossiter Johnson . In 1908, John G. Neihardt and Doane Robinson lamented

14280-459: The West in 1831 was used by the U.S. Army , including western explorer John C. Frémont , during the early 1840s. Smith was born in Jericho, now Bainbridge , Chenango County , New York, on January 6, 1799, to Jedediah Smith I, a general store owner from New Hampshire , and Sally Strong, both of whom were descended entirely from families that came to New England from England during

14450-649: The area to halt any incursion by the Texas Militia . Territorial claims were also brought by the California Republic and State of Deseret each claiming parts of western New Mexico. These territorial disputes were finally resolved by the Compromise of 1850 , which designated the 103rd meridian west as Texas's western border and resulted in California 's statehood, and the establishment of

14620-536: The art collective Meow Wolf . The cityscape is known for its adobe -style Pueblo Revival and Territorial Revival architecture , much of which is preserved and protected. Before European colonization of the Americas , the area Santa Fe occupied between 900 CE and the 1500s was known to the Tewa peoples as Oghá P'o'oge ("white shell water place", one of a number of places named for their water access ) and by

14790-518: The banks of the Columbia River". He was known for his many systematic recorded observations on nature and topography. His expeditions also raised doubts about the existence of the legendary Buenaventura River. Jedediah Smith's explorations were the main basis for accurate Pacific West maps. He and his partners, Jackson and Sublette, produced a map that, in a eulogy for Smith printed in the Illinois Monthly Magazine for June 1832,

14960-420: The bear, which ripped open his side with its claws and took his head in its mouth. When the bear retreated, Smith's men ran to help him. They found his scalp and ear ripped off, but he convinced a friend, Jim Clyman , to sew it loosely back on, giving him directions. The trappers fetched water, bound up his broken ribs, and cleaned his wounds. After recuperating from his injuries, Smith wore his hair long to cover

15130-518: The beginning of the 20th century, scholars and historians made efforts to recognize and study his achievements. In 1918, a book by Harrison Clifford Dale was published covering Ashley-Smith's western explorations. In 1935, Smith's summary autobiography was finally listed in a biographical dictionary. Smith's first comprehensive biography by Maurice S. Sullivan was published in 1936. A popular Smith biography by Dale Morgan , published in 1953, established Smith as an authentic national hero. Smith's map of

15300-460: The breach of trust, the governor once again released Smith after several English-speaking residents vouched for him, including John B. R. Cooper and William Edward Petty Hartnell in Monterey. After posting a $ 30,000 bond, Smith received a passport, on the same promise – to leave the province immediately and not to return. Also as before, Smith and his party remained in California hunting in

15470-444: The capital of Nuevo México , a province of New Spain , Santa Fe is the oldest state capital in the United States and the earliest European settlement west of the Mississippi River . Its name is Spanish for "Holy Faith", and an abbreviation of its formal name, La Villa Real de la Santa Fe de San Francisco de Asís —"the Royal Town of the Holy Faith of Saint Francis of Assisi ". The province of Nuevo México became

15640-492: The capital of the province was the settlement of San Juan de los Caballeros north of Santa Fe near modern Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo . Juan de Oñate was banished and exiled from New Mexico by the Spanish, after his rule was deemed cruel towards the indigenous population. New Mexico's second Spanish governor , Don Pedro de Peralta , however, founded a new city at the foot of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in 1607, which he called La Villa Real de la Santa Fé de San Francisco de Asís ,

15810-530: The city and the region. Tourism information is provided by the convention and visitor bureau and the chamber of commerce . Some tourist activities take place in the historic downtown , especially on and around the Plaza , a one-block square adjacent to the Palace of the Governors , the original seat of New Mexico's territorial government since the time of Spanish colonization . Other areas include "Museum Hill",

15980-439: The city, up from 67,947 in 2010, equating to an annual growth of close to 3%. As per the 2010 census, the racial makeup of the city residents was 78.9% White , 2.1% Native American; 1.4% Black, 1.4% Asian; and 3.7% from two or more races. A total of 48.7% of the population were Hispanic or Latino of any race. Non-Hispanic Whites were 39.5% of the population. According to the 2022 U.S. Census Bureau American Community Survey ,

16150-746: The city. Chimayo is also nearby and many locals complete the annual pilgrimage to the Santuario de Chimayo . Santa Fe has been associated with science and technology since 1943 when it served as the gateway to Los Alamos National Laboratory (LANL), a 45-minute drive from the city. In 1984, the Santa Fe Institute (SFI) was founded to research complex systems in the physical, biological, economic, and political sciences. It has hosted such Nobel laureates as Murray Gell-Mann (physics), Philip Warren Anderson (physics), and Kenneth Arrow (economics). The National Center for Genome Resources (NCGR)

16320-459: The confrontation, but the extent of his involvement in the desertion of the freemen, if any, is unclear. Ashley left St. Louis late in 1824 and after an exploring expedition in Wyoming and Utah, he and Smith were reunited on July 1, 1825, at what would become the first rendezvous . During the rendezvous, Ashley offered Smith a partnership to replace Henry. Smith returned to St. Louis for

16490-465: The cultural richness of the area, the beauty of the landscapes, and its dry climate. Local leaders began promoting the city as a tourist attraction. The city sponsored architectural restoration projects and erected new buildings according to traditional techniques and styles, thus creating the Santa Fe Style . Edgar L. Hewett , founder and first director of the School of American Research and

16660-527: The defeat. Ashley and the rest of the surviving party rode back down the river, ultimately enlisting aid from Colonel Henry Leavenworth who was the commander of Fort Atkinson . In August, Leavenworth sent 250 military men along with 80 Ashley-Henry men, 60 men of the Missouri Fur Company and a number of Lakota Sioux warriors to subdue the Arikaras. After a botched campaign, a peace treaty

16830-663: The description of the river flowing from "Lake Timpanogos", which is the Jordan River flowing between Utah Lake and the Great Salt Lake, was of a waterway to the Pacific. The error of depicting the Buenaventura as flowing southwest to a lake was perpetuated by early explorers and cartographers such as Alexander von Humboldt , who used a map from the Dominguez and Escalanté expedition to prepare his maps in 1804 and 1809. Zebulon Pike used Humboldt's maps to prepare his map for his book from 1810. Aaron Arrowsmith in 1814 published

17000-420: The discipline often associated with a strict moral code. He owned at least two slaves, which conflicted with his northern Methodist upbringing, and his behavior was not always honorable when dealing with those he considered his antagonists. He was known to be physically strong, cool under pressure, extremely skilled at surviving in the wild, and possessed extraordinary leadership skills. Smith's true character

17170-399: The entire course of the river upstream to its head. The Buenaventura River's existence or non-existence was a matter of controversy until 1843, when John Charles Frémont , with Thomas Fitzpatrick and Kit Carson as scouts, led a perilous expedition from the Columbia River to Sacramento, California via the Sierra Nevada. By that time the fact that the Buenaventura River did not flow from

17340-404: The ethnic and racial makeup of the city was 49.4% White , 1.6% Native American , 2.1% Asian , 0.6% African American , 16.9% from other races , and 1.6% from two or more races. Hispanics or Latinos of any race were 50.6% of the population. There were 27,569 households, out of which 24.1% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 37.6% were married couples living together, 12.1% had

17510-627: The expedition. Smith and his partners were also preparing to join into the supply trade known as the " commerce of the prairies" . At the request of William H. Ashley, Smith Jackson and Sublette received a passport from Senator Thomas Hart Benton on March 3, 1831, the day after Smith wrote his letter to Eaton, and they began forming a company of 74 men, twenty-two wagons, and a "six-pounder" artillery cannon for protection. Having no response from Eaton, Smith joined his partners and left St. Louis to trade in Santa Fe on April 10, 1831. Smith

17680-431: The far west to Montreal . This work gave Smith an ambition for adventurous wilderness trade. According to Dale L. Morgan , Smith's love of nature and adventure came from his mentor, Dr. Titus G. V. Simons, a pioneer medical doctor who was on close terms with the Smith family. Morgan speculated that Simons gave the young Smith a copy of Meriwether Lewis ' and William Clark 's 1814 book of their 1804–1806 expedition to

17850-442: The first U.S. explorers to travel north from California overland to the Oregon Country . Surviving three Native American massacres and one bear mauling, Smith's explorations and documented travels were important resources to later American westward expansion . In March 1831, while in St. Louis, Smith requested of Secretary of War John H. Eaton a federally-funded exploration of the West, but to no avail. Smith informed Eaton that he

18020-514: The following accounts are conjectural or imagined, although possibly based on hearsay and third-hand information. According to Smith's grand-nephew, Ezra Delos Smith, there were 20 Comanches in the group. Smith attempted to conciliate with them until the Comanches scared his horse and shot him in the left shoulder with an arrow. Smith fought back, ultimately killing the chief of the warriors. The version written by Austin Smith, Jedediah's brother, in

18190-518: The founding of Albuquerque , to guarantee better representation and trade access for Pueblos in New Mexico's government. Other governors of New Mexico, such as Tomás Vélez Cachupin , continued to be better known for their more forward-thinking work with the indigenous population of New Mexico. Santa Fe was Spain's provincial seat at outbreak of the Mexican War of Independence in 1810. It

18360-402: The founding of the annual Santa Fe Indian Market . In 1912, New Mexico was admitted as the 47th U.S. state, with Santa Fe as its capital. At this time, with an approximate population of 5,000 people, the city's civic leaders designed and enacted a sophisticated city plan that incorporated elements of the contemporary City Beautiful movement, city planning, and historic preservation. The latter

18530-424: The gate of Hudson's Bay Company (HBC) post at Fort Vancouver , exhausted and almost destitute of clothing. He believed himself to be the only survivor of the men at camp but did not know of the fate of Smith and the two others. Chief Factor John McLoughlin , superintendent at the fort, sent word to the local tribes that they would be rewarded if they brought Smith and his men to the fort unharmed, and began organizing

18700-470: The group and indigenes, and the Umpqua were wary. One member of Smith's party, Harrison Rogers, described a conflict between the party and the Umpqua that took place on July 11: "Had several Inds. along; one of the Ind. stole an ax and we were obliged to seize him for the purpose of tying him before we could scare him to make him give it up. Capt. Smith and one of them caught him and put a cord round his neck, and

18870-639: The group that had been left in the San Joaquin Valley , reuniting with them on September 19, 1827. Unlike in San Gabriel, they were coolly received by the priests at Mission San José , who had already received warning of Smith's renewed presence in the area. Smith's party also visited the settlements at Monterey and Yerba Buena (San Francisco). Governor Echeandía, who was at the time in Monterey (capital of Alta California), once again arrested Smith, this time along with his men. Yet despite

19040-472: The head of the garrison at the mission confiscated all their guns. On December 8, Smith was summoned to San Diego for an interview with Governor José María Echeandía about his party's status in the country. Echeandía, surprised and suspicious of the Americans' unauthorized entrance into California, had Smith arrested, believing him to be a spy. Accompanied by LaPlant, Smith's Spanish interpreter, Smith

19210-486: The headwaters of the Colorado/Green River was well established among the trappers and guides, but maps continued to show it and other rivers flowing from the region of Great Salt Lake to the sea. On January 27, 1844 at Walker River , he briefly believed himself to have found the mythical river, but it was the result of a faulty measurement. Two days later he discovered his mistake and definitively proved that

19380-535: The highest proportion of the labor force of any U.S. city. Santa Fe's cultural highlights include Santa Fe Plaza , Santa Fe Historic District , the Palace of the Governors , and Fiesta de Santa Fe ; the city is also known for its contributions to New Mexican cuisine and New Mexico music . Among Santa Fe's many artistic institutions are the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum , the Chuck Jones Gallery, and

19550-499: The horses they had purchased for the return trip, Smith's party departed the mission communities of California in mid-February 1827. The party returned on the path it had arrived, but once outside the Mexican settlements, Smith convinced himself he had complied with Echeandía's order to leave by the same route he had entered, and the party veered north crossing over into the Central Valley . The party ultimately made its way to

19720-415: The internees had been transferred to other facilities—523 to War Relocation Authority concentration camps in the interior of the West, and 302 to Army internment camps. The Santa Fe site was used next to hold German and Italian nationals, who were considered enemy aliens after the outbreak of war. In February 1943, these civilian detainees were transferred to Department of Justice custody. The camp

19890-471: The lack of communications and quality of military support New Mexico received under Mexican rule. In 1846, following the annexation of Texas , they claimed Santa Fe along with other territory in eastern New Mexico. Texas Governor Peter H. Bell sent a letter to President Zachary Taylor , who died before he could read it, demanding that the U.S. Army stop defending New Mexico. In response, Taylor's successor Millard Fillmore stationed additional troops to

20060-527: The land claims of the Utah and New Mexico Territory . Some American visitors at first saw little promise in the remote town. One traveller in 1849 wrote: I can hardly imagine how Santa Fe is supported. The country around it is barren. At the North stands a snow-capped mountain while the valley in which the town is situated is drab and sandy. The streets are narrow ... A Mexican will walk about town all day to sell

20230-506: The large scar from his eyebrow to his ear. The only known portrait of Jedediah Smith, painted after his death in 1831, showed the long hair he wore over the side of his head to hide his scars. The party spent the rest of 1823 wintering in the Wind River Valley . In 1824, Smith sent an expedition to find an expedient route through the Rocky Mountains. Smith was able to retrieve information from Crow natives. When communicating with

20400-540: The legend of Smith as a "Bible-toter" and a missionary grew only after his death, and that assertions that he carried a Bible with him in the wilderness have no basis in any accounts by him or his companions. Further, that the only documentation of any public demonstration of faith was a prayer said at the burial of one of the Arikara massacre victims. However, the 2023 biography, Throne of Grace, indicates Smith to be deeply religious. While he rarely attended church, "it

20570-684: The mouth of the Yellowstone River , which had just been built by Major Henry and the men that he had led up earlier. Smith and some other men continued up Missouri River to the mouth of the Musselshell River , where they built a camp from which to trap through the winter. In the spring of 1823, Major Henry ordered Smith back down the Missouri River to the Grand River with a message for Ashley to buy horses from

20740-517: The national interest". The letter also included a description of Fort Vancouver and described how the British were in the process of making a new fort at the time of Smith's visit in 1829. Smith believed the British were attempting to establish a permanent settlement in the Oregon Country. Smith had not forgotten the financial struggles of his family in Ohio. After making a sizable profit from

20910-408: The newly created partnership of Smith, Jackson & Sublette but agreed to continue to send supplies to the rendezvous and broker the sale of furs brought to him in St. Louis. The new partners were immediately faced with the reality that beaver were rapidly disappearing from the region where the two previous partnerships had traditionally trapped. Contemporaneous maps promised untrapped rivers to

21080-475: The normal pattern. They named this river the Rio San Ysabel. The Native Americans told them it flowed west from there into a lake ( Sevier Lake ) and beyond. The Sevier Lake has no outlet, so the indigenes may have been referring to the west-flowing Humboldt River , which originates over 150 miles northwest, and were misinterpreted by the explorers. Despite Dominguez and Vélez de Escalante's doubts that

21250-710: The north and crossed over to the American River , a tributary of the Sacramento that flowed into San Francisco Bay . They tried traveling up the canyon of the South Fork of the American to cross the Sierra Nevada but had to return because of deep snow. Unable to find a feasible path for the well-laden party to cross and faced with hostile indigenes, he was forced into a decision: since they did not have time to travel north to Columbia River and be on time for

21420-481: The obscurity of Smith; afterward, more extensive efforts were initiated to publicize his accomplishments. In 1912, an article about Smith written by a grand-nephew, Ezra Delos Smith of Meade, Kansas , was published by the Kansas Historical Society . Five years later, Smith's status as a historical figure was further revived by Harrison Clifford Dale's book, The Ashley-Smith Explorations and

21590-551: The other to Port Orford , Oregon (the Los Mongos R.) where the Rogue River enters the Pacific. A similar map by Anthony Finley was published in 1826 A map by Thomas Bradford (1835) shows a river flowing to San Francisco Bay (labeled as "Port Sir Francis Drake" in a region Bradford called "New Albion") from the south end of Lake Timpanogos. There is no reference to Rio de San Buenaventura. An 1844 map by James Bowden shows

21760-626: The party continued north, the natives continued the aggressive actions, and Smith's men wounded at least two more and three were killed. By the time the party reached the Umpqua River in the British-American shared Oregon Country, their tolerance was at an ebb, leading to the ax incident and resulting in disastrous consequences. Smith for the most part was forgotten by his countrymen as a historical figure for over 75 years after his death. In 1853, Peter Skene Ogden had written about

21930-669: The party discovered a comanchero with some of Smith's personal belongings. It was relayed that Smith had encountered and communicated with a group of Comancheros just prior to his approaching a group of Comanche . Smith tried to negotiate with the Comanche, but they surrounded him in preparation for an attack. Most likely, the death of Jedediah Smith occurred in Northern Mexico Territory , south of present-day Ulysses , Grant County, Kansas at Wagon Bed Spring . None of his colleagues were witness to his death and

22100-611: The plan. New Mexico voted against interning any of its citizens of Japanese heritage, so none of the Japanese New Mexicans were interned during World War II. During World War II , the federal government ordered a Japanese-American internment camp to be established. Beginning in June 1942, the Department of Justice arrested 826 Japanese-American men after the attack on Pearl Harbor ; they held them near Santa Fe, in

22270-467: The possible Buenaventura and continued southwest to Southern California. In 1827 and 1828 he tracked the western flank of the Sierra Nevada in its full length, without registering a river that passed through the range, but he heard the Sacramento River referenced as the "Buenaventura" by Luis Antonio Argüello . A map by Albert Gallatin (1836), based on information from Smith's travels, labels

22440-609: The premise was accepted that no east to west waterway flowed across the interior of the western United States, Frémont and his father-in-law and political sponsor, Senator Thomas Hart Benton , directed their ambitions to a transcontinental railway , which was completed in 1869, after the Mexican–American War of 1846–48 and the American Civil War . Santa Fe (New Mexico) Santa Fe ( / ˌ s æ n t ə ˈ f eɪ , ˈ s æ n t ə f eɪ / SAN -tə FAY , -⁠ fay ; Spanish: [santaˈfe] )

22610-511: The recovered property over to Smith at no charge. Then Simpson paid Smith generous prices for the recovered furs and horses, totaling £582, and added a lump-sum bonus of £400; the payment totaled £982. In return, Smith apparently agreed that the firm of Smith, Jackson, and Sublette would confine its operations to the region east of the Great Divide. Smith remained at Fort Vancouver until March 12, 1829, when he and Arthur Black traveled up

22780-626: The region to the Rio Grande at Cochiti Dam . Santa Fe's climate is characterized by cool, dry winters, hot summers, and relatively low precipitation. According to the Köppen climate classification , depending on which variant of the system is used, the city has a cold semi-arid climate ( BSk ), common at 35°N. The 24-hour average temperature in the city ranges from 30.3 °F (−0.9 °C) in December to 70.1 °F (21.2 °C) in July. Due to

22950-699: The region until his death in 1888. As part of the New Mexico Campaign of the Civil War , General Henry Sibley occupied the city, flying the Confederate flag over Santa Fe for a few days in March 1862. Sibley was forced to withdraw after Union troops destroyed his logistical trains following the Battle of Glorieta Pass . The Santa Fe National Cemetery was created by the federal government after

23120-488: The relative aridity and elevation, average diurnal temperature variation exceeds 25 °F (14 °C) in every month, and 30 °F (17 °C) much of the year. The city usually receives six to eight snowfalls a year between November and April. The heaviest rainfall occurs in July and August, with the arrival of the North American Monsoon . As of the 2020 census, there were 87,505 people living in

23290-481: The rendezvous on July 3. The mountain men celebrated Smith's arrival with a cannon salute, for they had given up him and his party for lost. As agreed, Ashley had sent provisions for the rendezvous, and his men took back 7,400 pounds (3,400 kg) of Smith, Jackson & Sublette furs and a letter from Smith to William Clark, then in the office of the Superintendent of Indian Affairs for the region west of

23460-462: The rest of us stood with our guns ready in case they made any resistance, there was about 50 Inds. present but did not pretend to resist tying the other." On July 14, 1828, while Smith, John Turner and Richard Leland were scouting a trail north, his group was attacked in its camp on the Umpqua River by a group of Umpqua people. On the night of August 8, 1828, Arthur Black arrived at

23630-441: The sale of furs, over $ 17,000 (more than $ 486,413 in 2023) Smith sent $ 1,500 (equivalent to $ 42,919 in 2023) to his family in Green Township, whereupon his brother Ralph bought a farm. Smith also bought a house on First Avenue in St. Louis to be shared with his brothers. Smith bought two African slaves to take care of the property in St. Louis. The partners' busy schedules in St. Louis also found them and Samuel Parkman making

23800-472: The search for any surviving members of Smith's party and the recovery of his property after the Umpquah massacre. The Dictionary of American Biography , Volume 17, edited by Dumas Malone , published in 1935, contains an article on Smith authored by Joseph Schafer. The next year, the first comprehensive biography of Smith: Jedediah Smith: Trader and Trail Breaker by Sullivan was posthumously published, but it

23970-576: The ship Courier , Smith was released by Echeandía to reunite with his men. Echeandía ordered Smith and his party to leave California by the same route they entered, forbidding him to travel north along the coast to Bodega Bay but giving Smith permission to purchase needed supplies for an eastern overland return journey. Smith boarded the Courier sailing from San Diego to San Pedro, to meet his men. After waiting for almost another month for an exit visa and then spending at least two more weeks breaking

24140-405: The site of several art museums as well as the annual Santa Fe International Folk Art Market . There are numerous art and craft galleries along Canyon Road. During the second week of September, the aspens in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains turn yellow. This is also the time of the annual Fiestas de Santa Fe , celebrating the "reconquering" of Santa Fe by Don Diego de Vargas , a highlight of which

24310-607: The south end of Walker Lake . After meeting with the only mounted natives that they would encounter until they reached the Salt Lake Valley , they continued east across central Nevada, straight across the Great Basin Desert as the summer heat hit the region. Neither they nor their horses or mules could find adequate food. As the horses gave out, they were butchered for whatever meat the men could salvage. After two days without water, Robert Evans collapsed near

24480-442: The treacherous Gates of Lodore , aborted the trip prior to entering Desolation Canyon . Despite not having gotten close to the Colorado River, he concluded that the Green did empty into it, and continued his exploration by engaging Provost to lead him on an overland excursion to observe the GSL. After Ashley retired from the fur trade his partnership with Smith was bought out by Smith and two new partners, Smith focused on finding

24650-421: The unknown author claimed: "This map is now probably the best extant, of the Rocky Mountains, and the country on both sides, from the States to the Pacific." This map has been called "a landmark in mapping of the American West" The original map is lost, its content was overlaid and annotated by George Gibbs on an 1845 base map by John C. Frémont, which is on file at the American Geographical Society Library , at

24820-506: The war in 1870 to inter the Union soldiers who died fighting there. On October 21, 1887, Anton Docher , "The Padre of Isleta", went to New Mexico where he was ordained as a priest in the St Francis Cathedral of Santa Fe by Bishop Jean-Baptiste Salpointe . After a few years serving in Santa Fe, Bernalillo and Taos , he moved to Isleta on December 28, 1891. He wrote an ethnological article published in The Santa Fé Magazine in June 1913, in which he describes early 20th century life in

24990-399: The west, such as the non-existent Buenaventura . The legendary Buenaventura was thought to be a navigable waterway to the Pacific Ocean possibly providing an alternative to packing loads of furs back to St. Louis. The previous spring, Smith had searched for rivers flowing to the Pacific west and northwest of the Great Salt Lake . Although he pushed into eastern Nevada, he failed to find

25160-405: The western portion of the Old Spanish Trail . Upon reaching the San Bernardino Valley of California, Smith and Abraham LaPlant borrowed horses from a rancher and rode to the San Gabriel Mission on November 27, 1826, to present themselves to its director, Father José Bernardo Sánchez , who received them warmly. The next day, the rest of Smith's men arrived at the mission, and that night

25330-454: The whites. While crossing the river, Smith's party was attacked; 10 men, including Silas Gobel, were killed, and the two women were taken captive. Smith and the eight surviving men, one badly wounded from the fighting, prepared to make a desperate stand on the west bank of Colorado River , having made a makeshift breastwork out of trees and fashioned lances by attaching butcher knives to light poles. The men still had five guns among them, and as

25500-403: Was 40 years. For every 100 females, there were 91.7 males. For every 100 women aged 18 and over, there were 89.0 men. The median income for a household in the city was $ 40,392, and the median income for a family was $ 49,705. Men had a median income of $ 32,373 versus $ 27,431 for women. The per capita income for the city was $ 25,454. About 9.5% of families and 12.3% of the population were below

25670-446: Was Dale Morgan's book, Jedediah Smith and the Opening of the West , published in 1953, that established Smith as an authentic American hero whose explorations were overshadowed by the Lewis and Clark Expedition. According to Maurice S. Sullivan, Smith was "the first white man to cross the future state of Nevada, the first to conquer the High Sierra of California, and the first to explore the entire Pacific Slope from Lower California to

25840-399: Was at risk of long-term deterioration. The seven industries recommended by the report "represent a good mix for short-, mid-, and long-term economic cultivation." Tourism is a major element of the Santa Fe economy, with visitors attracted year-round by the climate and related outdoor activities (such as skiing in years of adequate snowfall; hiking in other seasons) plus cultural activities of

26010-444: Was called Oghá P'o'oge in Tewa . The Tanoans and other Pueblo peoples settled along the Santa Fe River from the mid 11th to mid 12th centuries, but had abandoned the site for at least 200 years by the time Spanish arrived in the early 17th century. Don Juan de Oñate led the first Spanish effort to colonize the region in 1598, establishing Santa Fe de Nuevo México as a province of New Spain . Under Juan de Oñate and his son,

26180-462: Was completing a map of the West derived from his own journeys. In May, Smith and his partners launched a planned paramilitary trading party to Santa Fe . On May 27, while searching for water in present-day southwest Kansas , Smith disappeared. It was learned weeks later that he had been killed during an encounter with the Comanche  – his body was never recovered. After his death, Smith and his accomplishments were mostly forgotten by Americans. At

26350-430: Was considered important to fur traders based in present-day Saint Louis, Missouri . When the area was still under Spanish rule, the Chouteau brothers of Saint Louis gained a monopoly on the fur trade, before the United States acquired Missouri under the Louisiana Purchase of 1803. The fur trade contributed to the wealth of Saint Louis. The city's status as the capital of the Mexican territory of Santa Fe de Nuevo México

26520-407: Was delayed in reaching cartographers, and in 1836 Tanner repeated the depictions of the three rivers, except he identified the "R. Timpanogos" as "R. S. Sacramento ou (or) Timpanogos". So, when, in 1841, John Bidwell embarked over the Rocky Mountains to California, he was advised to take carpenters tools with them, to build canoes and sail from the GSL to the Pacific. There had long been a hope that

26690-466: Was expanded at that time to take in 2,100 men segregated from the general population of Japanese-American inmates. These were mostly Nisei and Kibei who renounced their U.S. citizenship rather than sign an oath to "give up loyalty to the Japanese emperor" (offending them, since they had no identification with the emperor & were being asked to enlist in fighting him while their Japanese-born parents were interned) and other "troublemakers" from

26860-500: Was formalized in the 1824 Constitution after Mexico achieved independence from Spain. In addition to remaining the administrative and political heart of Nuevo Mexico, Santa Fe maintained its status as the central trading and transportation hub west of the Mississippi. Beginning in the 1820s, the Santa Fe Trail brought lucrative commercial links to what was then the American frontier in Missouri, attracting both indigenous and Euro-American traders. The opening of trade and migration with

27030-452: Was founded in 1994 to focus on research at the intersection among bioscience , computing, and mathematics. In the 1990s and 2000s several technology companies formed to commercialize technologies from LANL, SFI and NCGR. Due to the presence of Los Alamos National Laboratory, Sandia National Laboratories and the Santa Fe Institute, and because of its attractiveness for visitors and an established tourist industry, Santa Fe routinely serves as

27200-410: Was in the field, HBC Governor George Simpson coincidentally arrived at Fort Vancouver on an inspection tour. When Smith returned, he and Simpson negotiated the purchase of the recovered property by the HBC. Simpson estimated that the recovery expedition had cost the Company £1,000 in lost revenue, and the salaries of the HBC men who spent three months on the trip cost an additional £171, yet HBC turned

27370-512: Was kept secret. Smith later wrote a letter to Secretary of War John Eaton in 1830 making the location of the South Pass public information. Major Henry returned to St. Louis on August 30, and Ashley began making plans to lead a caravan back to the Rockies to regroup with his men. Henry declined to return with Ashley, instead choosing to retire from the fur trade. After Fitzpatrick left, Smith and six others, including William Sublette , again crossed South Pass, and in September 1824 encountered

27540-417: Was leading the caravan on the Santa Fe Trail on May 27, 1831, when he left the group to scout for water near the Lower Spring on the Cimarron River in present-day southwest Kansas. He never returned to the group. The remainder of the party proceeded on to Santa Fe hoping Smith would rendezvous with them, but he never did. They arrived in Santa Fe on July 4, 1831, and shortly thereafter members of

27710-409: Was negotiated. Smith had been appointed commander of one of the two squads of the Ashley-Henry men and was thereafter known as "Captain Smith". After the campaign, in the fall of 1823, Smith and several other of Ashley's men traveled downriver to Fort Kiowa . Leaving Fort Kiowa in September, Smith and 10 to 16 men headed west, beginning his first far-western expedition, to make their way overland to

27880-410: Was originally occupied by indigenous Tanoan peoples, who lived in numerous Pueblo villages along the Rio Grande . One of the earliest known settlements in what is known as downtown Santa Fe today came sometime after 900 AD. A group of native Tewa built a cluster of homes that centered around the site of today's Plaza and spread for 1 ⁄ 2 mile (800 m) to the south and west; the village

28050-450: Was particularly influenced by similar movements in Germany. The plan anticipated limited future growth, considered the scarcity of water, and recognized the future prospects of suburban development on the outskirts. The planners foresaw that its development must be in harmony with the city's character. After the mainline of the railroad bypassed Santa Fe, it lost population. However, artists and writers, as well as retirees, were attracted to

28220-403: Was popularly known as the Pathfinder until the late 19th century, while Smith's life and reputation were nearly forgotten by his countrymen. In 1846, the disputed joint occupancy of Britain and the United States of the Oregon Country where Smith stayed at Fort Vancouver was ended by the Oregon Treaty . In 1848, Mexico ceded California (where Smith had twice been arrested by Governor Echeandía) to

28390-401: Was rediscovered as the American whose explorations led to the use of the 20-mile (32 km)-wide South Pass as the dominant route across the Continental Divide for pioneers on the Oregon Trail . Coming from modest family background, Smith traveled to St. Louis and joined William H. Ashley and Andrew Henry 's fur trading company in 1822. Smith led the first documented exploration from

28560-410: Was said of him he made the mountaintop his confessional, the forest glade his altar." As such, author Tom Clavin describes Smith's life as a kind of parable illustrate God’s munificence to any man willing to keep the Christian faith through the many trials. All accounts of Smith describe him as strongly self-controlled, never drinking alcohol to excess or bedding Native American women, indicating he had

28730-407: Was taken to San Diego while the remainder of the party remained at the mission. Echeandía detained Smith for about two weeks, demanding that he turn over his journal and maps. Smith requested permission to travel north to the Columbia River on a coastal route, where known paths could take his party back to United States territory. Upon intercession of American sea Captain W.H. Cunningham of Boston on

28900-401: Was the first U.S. city inducted into the UNESCO Creative Cities Network . Santa Fe hosts over 250 art galleries, a large concentration of museums, and three annual art events: the Santa Fe International Folk Art Market ; the Traditional Spanish Colonial Market and the Indian Market. One-tenth of all employment is related to artistic and cultural industries, with writers and authors comprising

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